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Posted

Hello all.

 

What is the best stain to use on bare wood (for example on the planking on billing boats Vasa).

Is it varnish based stain, oil based stain or water based stain?

 

Jörgen

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Posted

As I understand itL

stain;  essentially a paint-like product that is a surface based material.

It is colored to match a species of wood, but it partially masks the grain

of the wood it is used on.  On raw wood, I think the system chosen is 

a preference with no objective factors favoring any one of them.

 

dye,  penetrates the wood, enhances the grain, does not limit the choice of finish.

Two types in general - alcohol base - less penetration, no effect on the wood,  drys

quickly.

water base- deeper penetration, longer drying time,  first application usually raises the grain

and requires treatment = sanding or use of a scraper.  Pre-treatment with dilute PVA in water

and sanding before dye usually negates the grain problem.

 

If you have quality wood- consider using a dye,  If the wood is not beautiful - a stain can fix that.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

Thank you for the answer Jaager. It is not quality wood but just very light (second planking material delivered in DeAgostinis Vasa kit) and I want to make it oak like so I will go for stain. I still have to choose between oil based or lacquer based. Think I have to buy them both and test them out.

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Posted

Hello Jörgen, personally, I prefer water based stain.  This would be a powder that is poured into very hot water, then stirred shortly.  Use a jar with a screw lid, and the stain will keep for many years.  Water based stain dries quickly, like within 30 minutes.

 

Please note, the wood should be stained before assembly, as it will not penetrate any glue that you may use for joining wood pieces, and the original wood color will remain visible.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

Michael

Current fleet, plastic;  Cutty Sark, Revell 1975,  Gorch Fock, Heller 1986,  Royal Louis, Heller 1988,  Amerigo Vespucci, Heller 1990

To do;  Preussen and Passat, Heller

Wooden ships;  Karl and Marie, 1:50 Krick, 1991, Le Hussard (extremely bashed),  AL, scratch design, 2009

On the bench and struggling,  Dos Amigos, Occre

Posted

Jorden 

I prefer stain for most of my work,  I feel  paint hides the natural look of the wood. Water based, or oil stain really depends on the look your trying to achieve. I use both sometime mixed together.    Lacquer based stain is not very forgiving if you make a mistake, plus it will take on a shine effect.   I found the best way is allot of trail and error testing, different types of wood react differently to stains, again its all about the look you want.  Take notes on all your testing it will pay off later,    I have posted a pic of my Rattlesnake as an example of the stain effect.  

As I have said on this forum several times,  "We  build for the builder"  

MOG 

 

rs 1.jpg

Current Build:   Not a ship 

           

 

Completed Builds:   Mississippi River Boat OcCre 1:80

                                Bluenose, Model Shipways 1:48

                                Rattlesnake, Model Shipways 1:64

                                     Dumas # 1233  PT Boat,  Wood, 1:30 

                                 1914-1918 US Army Mule drawn Ambulance 1:16 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Thank you Mickgee and  Mog. Think i can skip laquer Based then. Will by water and oil to make some testing. 

Mickgee, are you staning second planks before you glue them in place? How about sanding then?

Mog, a very beautiful ship you have there.

 

Edited by Passer

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Posted (edited)

Jorgen, make sure the stain does not dry to a gloss. If it does, you will have to remove it with fine steel wool or sandpaper.

Edited by Canute

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

Jorgen,

 

This is how i stained my Golden Hind 

IMG_20180129_090506.thumb.jpg.59498227f3bae644d817de45d912a0b4.jpg

 

My Vasa was painted with semi gloss, old oak varnish

See the link below

 

Posted
14 hours ago, Passer said:

 

Mickgee, are you staning second planks before you glue them in place? How about sanding then?

Hi Passer, yes, stain before gluing the 2nd planks.

 

Here an example of mahogany strips that I treated with black water based stain.  The strips were stained before application.  Once glued into position, the sanded planks become a little lighter of course, but can be easily re-stained after gluing and sanding smooth.  See the lighter spot on the planks near the keel?

 

30020175pm.jpg

 

Here the same area after being re-stained and then sealed;

 

30107024gs.jpg

 

When the glue covers the previously stained planks, the stain remains as is, because the glue seals the pores, but the rest can be sanded and re-stained, no problems at all with this particular black hull.

 

Michael

 

 

Current fleet, plastic;  Cutty Sark, Revell 1975,  Gorch Fock, Heller 1986,  Royal Louis, Heller 1988,  Amerigo Vespucci, Heller 1990

To do;  Preussen and Passat, Heller

Wooden ships;  Karl and Marie, 1:50 Krick, 1991, Le Hussard (extremely bashed),  AL, scratch design, 2009

On the bench and struggling,  Dos Amigos, Occre

Posted

Hello Jörgen, we'd all be pleased if you let us know how things turned out.  We're always looking for other methods and materials to use so your input will be appreciated.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

Michael

Current fleet, plastic;  Cutty Sark, Revell 1975,  Gorch Fock, Heller 1986,  Royal Louis, Heller 1988,  Amerigo Vespucci, Heller 1990

To do;  Preussen and Passat, Heller

Wooden ships;  Karl and Marie, 1:50 Krick, 1991, Le Hussard (extremely bashed),  AL, scratch design, 2009

On the bench and struggling,  Dos Amigos, Occre

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