Sultana 1767 by moreplovac - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/64 - Colonial Schooner

moreplovac · April 24, 2018

A bit of a sanding and second coat of paint... Not as existing process as planking...

Swivel guns received a second coat of flat black; actually areas that were not covered with the first layer...

Happy modeling..

moreplovac · April 29, 2018

Swivel guns are ready for installation. Nice black color..

I was not happy with end results of hull painting so i decided to give it a good layer of white primer. Results might be even satisfactory so i might leave it with white primer. Will see tomorrow..

Hull protected with more tape...

End result still shiny but will see when primer dries out..

Then i started working on rudder hinges called pintles and gudgeons. Cut 6 stripes of copper even dough kit suggested to make them out of cardboard. I tried i did not like results but the making process was much simpler.

Strips were flattened and bend over 22 gauge wire and then bent over piece of wood left from rudder making process. That wood was the same thickness as rudder and that basically completed the whole process. They are identical except pintles will have a small wire glued into place.

I will paint them in white to match the hull so here they are, ready for a coat of paint..

The correct length will be cut later.

Happy modeling.

lmagna · April 29, 2018

Great looking hinges. I think you will like them much better than paper when you get them on.

moreplovac · April 29, 2018

Absolutely Lou. Now that i am a bit more comfortable and skilled in making those, i might even try to make few new, to have them more uniformed..

But, boy they are tiny..

lmagna · April 29, 2018

57 minutes ago, moreplovac said:

But, boy they are tiny..

Isn't that true of almost all of it? I have been following several of the builds where the guys are building with PE parts and to be honest it seems like another world in modeling. I am following your work as I am possibly only a few months behind you in making the same decisions on my build and I can use all the "How it is done" I can get.

moreplovac · May 2, 2018

On 4/29/2018 at 1:32 PM, lmagna said:

"How it is done" I can get

Glad i can help...

moreplovac · May 2, 2018

I have worked on rudder; hinges were assembled with 22 gauge black wire connecting pintles and gundgeons. Then they were cut to the correct length as per plan and with a help of few cyano drops, they were mounted to the rudder. Next, all together (rudder and hinges) were pained with white primer. I am more and more satisfied with results when using primer, more to show.

Mounting it on the hull..

Then i worked on wales; two wales were dip into water for about 15 minutes, then twisted to the approximate shape in home-made jig..

The i applied several drops of cyano gel to the hull, and few drops of carpenters glue between. The cyano gell with grab the wales amost instantly and carpenter's glue will help on log run. It takes more to cure but it supposed to be very sturdy.

From the front..

In this process of wales mounting, the wales were pre-painted with modeler's black paint which was leaving a black mark on fingers and, which will in turn, leave marks on white hull. Noticing that i decided to re apply white primer on the hull. Using masking tape i covered all ship parts except hull and run another layer of white primer. This will cover dirty spots, rudder and rudder hinges, and small scratches hinges were leaving on the hull.

Cap rails were mounted and sanded to the shape and dimension. They should be appr 4mm wide. Bellow pictures still do not show correct size..

In the meantime i painted hull again and it is drying as we speak (or as i type)..

i also cover with flat black paint, the cap rail that will be mounted around transom..

Happy modeling.

moreplovac · May 5, 2018

Another layer of white primer was applied. It looks very nice, not shiny, small imperfections and scratched were covered, and i would safely say that part of hull below wales is completed.

Now i need to apply one more layer of flat black on wales and final coat of golden oak stain on hull planking.

Then a coat of varnish over the whole hull will seal it all nicely..

Happy modeling.

Edited May 5, 2018 by moreplovac

moreplovac · May 9, 2018

No much to report; i had an eye laser procedure so was not quite active in the shipyard. Today i just lay a layer of varnish to protest the hull from dirty hands and dust.

Next will "attack" wales with another layer of black, golden oak on hull planking and finish up with protective layer of varnish.

Happy modeling..

moreplovac · May 11, 2018

Another layer of black paint was applied to wales, after masking the whole hull..

It took me more to mask the whole hull then to actually paint the wales.

After paint was dried i applied a layer of varnish to wales - to protect it from my fingers and other dangerous material..

Happy modeling..

lmagna · May 11, 2018

Hi moreplovac

In the future you might find it easier to just run some tape along the line you want to mask, in this case the wales, and then attach another strip of tape to a large piece of paper with part of the sticky edge exposed. then stick that to the tape you already have in place and wrap the paper around the area you want to protect. I think you will find that much quicker and less likely to pull paint off of other areas of the hull.

Great build you have going though. Looking forward to your further progress.

moreplovac · May 11, 2018

Hi Imagna, i agree with you; will definitely use your suggestion in the future.

Cheers.

DenPink · May 12, 2018

Hi

Nice build, but it seems to me that

you have got the rudder hinges the wrong way round.

The top hinge should have the hole on it, and the stem part that goes into the hole should be at the bottom.

Hope you don't mind me pointing this out to you.

Denis.

moreplovac · May 12, 2018

Hi Denis, you are right. You made me look closer to rudder and now i have to make executive decision: tear it down and start again or hope that it will not be that visible :-) For now will just leave it there...

Thanks for following...

moreplovac · May 13, 2018

So, decision have been made, i will re-do the work on rudder, it just does not fir right as it stands today...

Also i have decided to re-do cap rails as well; i had to deviate slightly from practicum as it does not quite clearly provide process of installing scrolls in correct position when it comes to cap rails. I made cap rails narrowed than needed. Was able to locate another Sultana built log and fellow builder showed his method of completing this task (cap rails plus scrolls) with more info and pictures. And here we are. Making tiny scrolls with toothpicks was not a challenge after making 20+. I am sure i will find 6 that are similar in shape and size.

Hull with removed cap rails;new rails will be 5.5 mm wide.

Scrolls made out of sculpey and baked as per direction, ready for installation.

Happy modeling...

lmagna · May 13, 2018

Two steps forward and one back................. But then I am sure you will be happier in the end.

moreplovac · May 13, 2018

Yes, i would definitely see it every time i looked at the model so it is worth get it right...

moreplovac · May 14, 2018

Rudder removed and hull ready for wood filler and sanding...

Then i cut cap rails, which were painted black on the bottom so i don't have to paint those tiny spots.

With this attempt i tried to make a little grove on each side of the cap rails; this should made scrolls easier to mount.

Then i started to mount scrolls, very tiny pieces...

And all is done...

Next step is to fill up all gaps between scrolls and cap rails and to paint all in black..

Well, that is for today...

Overworked724 · May 15, 2018

Wonderful job on the volutes! The tiny scrolls can be very challenging.

Nice job so far! I’m enjoying your build!

moreplovac · May 20, 2018

Filling with wood filler and sanding volutes few times. Then wait and sand, and again...

This i believe will be the last layer of wood filler on volutes.

Then, some wood filler used on the hull to fill out holes left after removing the rudder. Not a big deal...

New rudder built from piece of basswood, thicker that needed. An another exercise of sanding to bring it to the desired thickness.

Marked outlines of the old rudder and cut as close as possible to the lines; less sanding is better.

During the sanding process the top of the rudder broke and need a little fix. Another piece of boxwood and voila; all is good. But a bit of extra sanding will be required.

Hinge parts are cut and need a bit of flattening...

Flattened and ready for painting.

Rudder completed and first layer of white paint applied.

That is all for today..

Edited May 20, 2018 by moreplovac

moreplovac · June 3, 2018

Well, few things in the house that needed my attention and business trip set me away from Sultana..

But i am back, for short time, next business trip coming soon. So, here we are..

Sheet of boxwood that will be used for cap rail was cut and cap rail shape was curved by #11 knife. Once on the ship, the final size will be shaped. The Sultana was placed on sheet of boxwood and traced to mark the cap rail. A 2mm line was marked outside from the hull traced line, and second line was marked inside. These lines will be used to cut the shape..

Using #11 knife i cut the rail that will be sanded to correct size once mounted on the ship.

Cap rail was mounted with carpenter's glue and cyano glue. Cyano to provide quick grip and carpenter' glue to bond it permanently. The cap rail was secured with rubber and two piece of wood (these are my home made sanding blocks).

Then i was working on hinges, bend them to the shape and put a layer of black paint.

And another layer of white paint was applied to rudder.

That's all for today.

Happy modeling.

moreplovac · June 5, 2018

Cap rail was shaped and a bit of wood filler was applied. Ready for a layer of black paint.

The kit supplied hatchets are made from metal and are very poor quality for my taste and decision was made to have them done from wood.

All hatches frames were cut from basswood, 4mm wide and 0.8mm thick. First one to attack was a main hatch, which will have 5 planks representing cover boards. Each board will have two eye bolts and rings made from 28gauge copper wire. Did not have black wire so bolts and rings will be covered in flat black color.

Once main hatch was assembled and glued, i added a ledge that will hold planks on top of it. Then a nice, light sanding was done. Planks were cut to the measurement, sanded them a bit so all 5 planks will fit correctly, the holes were drilled for bolts, and a matching layer of wood stain was applied.

The hatch was mounted on the deck. Before mounting i sanded two sides so the hatch will match (such a rime) the curve of the deck.

Cutting and gluing hatch

Ledge was added..

5 planks were cut and sanded so they can fit correctly.

I did not make these planks perfectly; i wanted to look a bit used.. Then planks were put together with scotch tape so i can mark the holes for

bolts.

Then i started to work on bolts and eye ring. Had to make a sample of both so i can test the size..

10 eye bolts were made.

These are very tiny pieces, hard to keep them and work on them.. Need some jewellery's tools...

Mount them temporary for painting.. and here they are, completed.

Happy modeling.

lmagna · June 5, 2018

Good to see you making steady progress and making such a fine rendition of this kit.

moreplovac · June 6, 2018

Thanks Imagna, there are few things i will do differently; one is eye bolts. They do not look perfect for my taste so will be redoing them today..

lmagna · June 6, 2018

I'm sure you will keep at it until you are happy with the results. It's kind of hard as the scale is small. You could try wrapping the loop around a small wire or rod to make the loop.

moreplovac · June 6, 2018

Not being truly perfectionist but close enough (but no cigar) i decided to make another set of eye bolts.

Did not like the shape of eye bolts i made yesterday and result flat black paint left on them. Also remembering that some time ago i purchased coper blackening kit so i decided to give it a try as well.

Using a 1.4mm diameter nail as a template for an eye, i made about 16 new.

Pour in a bit of a blackening fluid... and it starts the blackening process.

Few minutes is all that it takes, and drop them into water bath..

Then they were dried out on the piece of paper. Rings are next. I built one test set to see how it will fit on the plank..

Then i made a bunch of rings using a nail (this time 3mm diameter) as a template. By cutting them i got 20 rings. Good thinking since in the process of cutting i lost 4 of them..

Then i put rings to eye bolts and drop all sets into another blackening bath..

After few minutes in water bath, i removed them and put on piece of paper for drying.

So, here they are, planks and eye bolt/ring sets ready for tomorrow..

Happy modeling..

moreplovac · June 6, 2018

1 hour ago, lmagna said:

I'm sure you will keep at it until you are happy with the results. It's kind of hard as the scale is small. You could try wrapping the loop around a small wire or rod to make the loop.

Thanks Lou for your reply, i just used the same technique as you described and they are much nicer..

They are very, very tiny....

lmagna · June 6, 2018

I'm glad it worked. It looks like you figured it out yourself before you even read my suggestion. So all i did was sit back and watch you get it right just like I thought you would.

Congradulations

moreplovac · June 7, 2018

Eye bolts and rings attached and planks mounted on the ship. Very interesting and realistic results..

Making coamings for other hatchets are on the go. Kit supplied metal casting hatchets will be discarded.

I cut the planks to correct length, glue them over the block anvil to get perfect 90 degrees angle. Once all is assembled, sanded all sides on the piece of sand paper temporary fixed on an old ceramic tile.