Recommended paint pens for detail work?

[Bob Cleek]

6 hours ago, Richmond said:

I am very new to air brushing and have been using vallejos air line of paint, I assumed I shouldn’t thin this paint since it’s designed for air brushing out of the bottle...should I be?  I’m not too concerned with money as all of it is cheaper then the cigarettes I used to smoke lol but I don’t like being wasteful.

I didn't say that as the original post indicates, but I'll respond to the question:

 

That's all a matter of your own judgment. If the paint is being sprayed evenly out of the gun, rather than spitting and sputtering and producing a "splattered" finish, that's how it should be. If the paint isn't coming out so thick that it takes forever to dry or "floods" and starts to run, that's how it should be. If it produces a perfect finish without buildup that obscures fine detail, that's how it should be. If you're happy with it, that's how it should be.  If not, it's time to read your airbrushing manual, watch a few YouTube videos, and start experimenting. The problem is more often an incorrect adjustment of your airbrush and you should troubleshoot for that before blaming the paint. Learn what "conditioners" (thinners, retarders, drying accelerators, and leveling agents) are available to you and add those to your arsenal.

[Mark P]

Good Morning All;

 

Thanks for all the thoughts set out above. All very interesting and thought-provoking.

 

I used an air brush with some model painting acrylic paints bought in a High Street bargain store. I thinned the paint with water, and after two coats the colour was deep and solid. 

 

However, this was on un-sealed lime wood, which is very porous. I wonder what the results would be on boxwood, which is much less open. I will have to try an experiment.

 

All the best,

 

Mark P

 

 

[grsjax]

On 12/3/2019 at 7:47 AM, Bob Cleek said:

diluting acrylics with isopropanol (rubbing alcohol)

There is a formula on line for an acrylic thinner for airbrushing that is basically 50% water and 50% rubbing alcohol with a small amount of retarder and flow enhancer added.  It is reported to be identical in use to Tamiya airbrush thinner.  Not sure if Tamiya actually uses this formula.  However I have read in a couple of books about airbrushing that alcohol is a very good solvent to use with acrylic paints.

 

Also there is this is something to consider to prevent fadeing of your paint.  https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01305-Coatings-11-Ounce-UV-Resistant/dp/B00397STRW?th=1

[wefalck]

One should remember that acrylic paints are complex emulsions. So by diluting a specific brand with haphazard mixtures of solvents the emulsions may break down, leading to coagulation and then clogging of the airbrush. Either you may need to experiment yourself, or rely on the experience of others.

[stuglo]

Thank you all contributors of this thread. I feel less stupid for failing with my airbrush and non-specialized acrylic. I've used marker pens(for best  result use pre assembly)to show wood grain which I like (black and red in particular). Also failed with oil paints but will try again using the advice given. Obviously, choice of brush is essential. Writing this, I am still chocking from the fumes of a water based aerosol paint I've just used for my picket boat hull. Truthfully, I prefer the natural wood ,oiled, whenever possible, but sometimes the nature of the part or poor quality of wood or finish, makes painting unavoidable. My wife was an art teacher, but although she sows my sails, I haven't the courage to ask her to paint my models!