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stuglo

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Everything posted by stuglo

  1. Hi Jeff-E. I have been progressing slowly and with increasing frustration and disappointment with the lack of accuracy of this kit, considering the vast literature and the real thing available. It obviously went through a number of refits. My current dilema- does anyone know if the beak head bulkheads, round houses and various forward decorations were ever black (as provided by the kit) or always blue. I tried to overpaint these laser parts in blue (admiralty colours) but the result was very poor and I cleaned it off. How did you acccomlish this because your result is pretty good? Rereading you posts, did the Tamya paint itself, rather than the shade, make a difference? The admiralty was just absorbed - maybe I should have applied a sealant first but I wanted to avoid a build-up of paint. maybe someone can save me the effort and tell me that yes, at some stage, these parts were black and not blue.
  2. I think it fair to say that use of oil (I use teak oil) is more than an acceptable alternative. Applied sparingly with cloth or wire wool, or diluted, it is absorbed with little obvious depth, non shiny and brings out the colour of wood beautifully. Seems to prevent shrinkage and cracking. I think it also protects against worm and other insects. 20 models in 30 years have not disappointed. I used wipe-on poly only once, but not as happy with result. (possibly my ineptitude).Some thought may be necessary if gluing afterward , but if applied sparingly and an "iron" bond is not required, the usual water-based glues work. I have read many good things about shellac, so I'll see if I can find some locally .
  3. Just found your blog. Perhaps these plans can help (I made Great Harry semi scratch POB based on Mantua plans)
  4. I built this Airfix on my honeymoon (in our new house)46 years ago. I cut through a new expensive tablecloth but my wife was still young and more forgiving than now. Later built a 1:8 E-type jag(don't remember manufacturer) but small kids played and destroyed both. I'm crying.
  5. Please don't be deterred. Although it took me nearly 5 years , I was working full time. There is much repetitive work as in all builds, but with over 100 sub-builds, it offers much variety which can give rapid satisfaction and results. The photos are taken through a perspex case
  6. Nice work. Deceptively difficult to build but the real thing is available which adds to the satisfaction.
  7. Read through thread. Nothing convincing . Other references show Victory as parallel. Still think it French vs English custom. ? What did the spanish do. Just curious.
  8. After many builds and following many blogs I only recently noticed via superb scratch builds of Le Feuron ,Bonhomme Richard and Renommee that deck planking in these cases is curved and not parallel joggled. Is this a basic difference between French and English/Dutch? The decking plan of the Bonhomme Richard (Boudriot) doesn't seem to have a discernible pattern. Why the national difference? Function? ease of building or national character (?romantic against pragmatic)?
  9. Never give up. Never be afraid to redo. If there is a shipbuilder's "block", we all have recurrent attacks. About rigging, I defer to the foregoing experts , but I understood that this was often done away from the original builders yard and upgrades/repairs at the captain's choice and direction.
  10. just think if you have to glue something to it afterwards.
  11. What's not funny, is how much truth there is in these jokes
  12. Stuglo is combination of mine and wife's 1st names (Stuart + Gloria). Thanks for info. Those in N. America are blessed with a plethora of choice and resource (deservedly so) . I and others offshore must compromise- shipping, technical support and warranty etc. But I am guided by recommendations and try and find a practical equivalent . So thank you Greg .
  13. I found this brochure in my parents flat. It dates from near the end of WW2. The production appears to be a combination of public relations and ?raising funds .The photos of ships and other contents may be of interest.
  14. while reviewing your first tutorials, I understand your enthusiasm for an oscillating spindle sander. I will order one from overseas but the permutation of grit and spindle size are huge. What do you recommend for a "starter" as I will order them at the same time.
  15. I have bought quite a few power tools in recent years , most already mentioned, but I would suggest the my belt sander is used almost daily. When used c arefully, it saves a huge amount of time
  16. I use chloroform brushed on. (so far remained conscious ) I never tried thickening it, but I found with the syringe, it was difficult to control the pressure and therefore avoiding squirting (both glass and single use).capillary action didn't work for me. I use 3mm plexi even with cases of over 1 metre. Glass looks better but is very heavy. I also had a nasty accident once (not related to modeling) so I cringe whenever I handle it. PS very original, great execution and I might copy your base design
  17. They look artificial and do not represent the real thing. The ports can be lined if not painted. Check out some virtual tours on u-tube or better still visit the ship ! Generally speaking I like the wood look and to see my work. I paint badly but certain models, look better painted eg Diane and Agamemnon, others such as Woppen, only the upper stern and side decoration. Like much with this hobby, its very personal.
  18. This was my first build and still one of my favorites, in the days before internet. The wood was good, the plans needed understanding and the Longridge book a necessity. Apart from a Dremel drill, work by hand tools. But then I counted years not months of work. Be prepared for undoing mistakes, which is easier if things are glued later or use PVA which can be "undone". Minor points- I'm glad that I did not paint the hull and regret using the metal port frames. Have fun, share and ask when in doubt.

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