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About RussR

  • Birthday 10/22/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Muskogee, Oklahoma
  • Interests
    History, Reading, Magic Performance,

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  1. These sails are typical of the kit supplied sails. Compare these to the panel sails that Cathead makes for his models described here: Or the paper sails made by rwiederrich in this thread: You have done a great job and spent a lot of time on your model, don't short change it with these crappy kit supplied sails. Of course the choice is yours. RussR
  2. Here is the update that I promised. In this shot I am framing the deck. Lego blocks help keep things square. Adding some more framing. And preparing to build the deck grating and install the deck planking. Here I added some wood to fill in some of the gaps between the deck and hull. This shot only shows one of the spots filled. Putting together some of the deck grating. There wasn't enough but I managed to piece the scrapes to make do. The instructions have you to cut the 10mm X 3mm material in sections to make the cap rail. As other builder of this model I traced the outline of the hull on some basswood sheet and cut it out on my Dremel Scroll saw will I was waiting on some glue to set. I'll coat the basswood with sanding sealer and stain it. If I am not happy with the result I will have to paint it. This is the deck framing, deck grating, deck planking and the two doors the plans call for. Putting the different deck parts together. Here I made a gauge to get the stringers location. Used the same gauge with a piece of the thwart material to check the gun carriage placement. Drilling the ribs and stringers with a 0.6mm drill for the brass nail placement. I had to cut the nails to less than 4mm to prevent them coming through the hull. I used these tweezers that has a locking mechanism because I kept dropping them. I pushed the shortened nails in with some long nosed pliers with a couple of rubber bands rapped around one side to protect the side of the hull. Next is some random shots of where I am in the build. That is it for this week. I'll do another update next friday. Until then don't let the Covid Monster get you. RussR
  3. Thanks, I'll have to check them out. RussR
  4. That would be great but: my Proxxon has a 10mm arbor. The Byrens adaptor is 0.625" to 1" (15.875mm to 25.4mm). Thanks for the suggestion. RussR
  5. I have a Proxxon FKS/E saw (with 10mm arbor) with several carbide tipped blades like the third one pictured. The problem with these blades is if you are cutting 1.5mm planks, over half of your material is going to end up in your vacuum cleaner. What blade does everyone recommend for cutting planks? RussR
  6. What has already been said. Plus you can clamp a straight edge down on top of the plank so it won't move. Then cut along the edge. RussR
  7. I have looked online for a historical reference for this boat and I have found nothing. Is there a publication, a link or anything? RussR My plan is to provide an update to my log every Friday until complete.
  8. I have something similar and never use it. Because of space limitation I thing you would be better off getting something like this https://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37006-115-Bench-Circular/dp/B0017TO806 . Living in the UK you may need the KS 230. One operates on 115volts and the other on 230volts. But if you don't have space for a Byrnes or a Proxxon FET the KS 115 is a good choice. I have a Proxxon FKS/E and a Proxxon KS 115 and I still use the KS 115 because it is so handy. The Proxxon FKS/E takes up more room. RussR
  9. My plan is to attempt to duplicate the paint scheme on the box. I have put a couple of coats of Minwax Prestain and a couple of coats of Natural Wood Stain and a coat of Wipe On Polly on the exposed wood to view. To my dismay I find that the instructions doesn't spell out where part of the planking extends. (see photo) I think I can cover this with the painted strip and a rib on the inside. I could have just replace the 12 planks (the hull is triple planked). I may still do that. Also I had to improvise to make the 5mm X 0.5mm planking cover the after deck. Bow shot after staining. I had to cut some 0.5mm walnut planking with my newly bought Proxxon Saw. (I need more practice cutting planks) But I got enough cut to do the job. With a little sanding I think it will be alright. This is some 2mm X 3mm walnut that had to be bent for part of the deck. I drew the shape that I need on some wood and nailed on the edges then soaked the wood in water. Then I used a 25watt sodering iron via lamp dimmer to control the temp. If you don't control the temp. you will scorch the wood. That's it for this time. RussR
  10. I just recently bought a Proxxon DB250 and can see the issue with the short tool rest. Nor do I see a simple fix. But for the price I think I can work around it. I could probably solve this problem by buying a Sherline for over a $1000.00 dollars. I'll keep cost benefit in mind. Enjoy your new lathe, I am sure I will enjoy mine. RussR
  11. Proxxon DB250 Lathe Not new but new to me. Found on Ebay and works perfect. The chuck hasn't even been out of the package but the cutters need to be honed, Everything in the photo for less than half retail.
  12. Richard, I have looked at your build. It is very nice. I think yours and two others has completed this model on MSW that I have drawn inspiration from. RussR
  13. I bought this new on Ebay a couple of weeks ago for a very good price. This is my 5th model. 1. Model Expo 18 Century Long Boat, 2. AL 1805 Swift Boat (that I completely screwed up), 3. AL Hermione, 4. Model Expo Chaperon. It is always disappointing to see a new log that gets abandoned. I hope this doesn't happen here. Since I have finished five models before, I don't think this will happen. Also, I would like to keep the log clean meaning not a lot of "back patting". I don't need the gratification. A simple "Like" is good enough. If you have helpful suggestions or constructive criticism, I want to hear it. Box that it came in. I finished the final layer of planks and I lay bare my planking sins at the altar of Model Ship World. ☺️ Before sanding and filling. I would've liked to not have to paint it but I fear that I got sloppy with the CA. I can get a little bit of CA on my fingers and the next thing I know it is on the bare wood.☹️ That's it for now. RussR
  14. Some lucky buyer got a hell of a deal. The shipping alone would cost at least half of the sale price of $29.95.
  15. I just had an offer from a seller on eBay for a new Model Shipways Schooner Sultana for $29.95 including shipping. I am reasonably sure if you contacted the seller you could get the same deal. I would buy it if I didn't have more that I could build in my life time. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-Shipways-1-64-1767-Colonial-Schooner-SULTANA-Wooden-Model-Ship-Kit-1988/124223232064?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 RussR

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