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Posted

It depends on how you source your wood.  Lumberyard sourced wood is usually planed on all four sides giving you an edge that will safely ride against a table saw fence.  The same with a piece of genuine mahogany that I recently bought from Woodcraft.  I have two pieces of very old (real) Boxwood that have had their top and bottom surface planed but edges left rough.  One edge will have to be band sawed and then planed on the jointer before it can be sawed on the table saw.  And, of course if you plan to harvest your own, a band saw is by far your best choice.

 

Roger

Posted
1 hour ago, Charles Green said:

David W:

 

MSC Industrial Supply has a variety of slitting blades with 5/8 arbor holes.  MSC requires an account - Contact info only, and $25.00 minimum order.

The closest that they have to 5/8" (.625) is 13mm or .5118 with many being 1". Their stock is about what McMaster Carr shows. At the cost of a slitting blade, I could almost step up to a Byrnes table saw. Additionally,  my past poor history with MSC is why I only shop McMaster for industrial parts, i.e. I need a 5 buck box of a specific kind of fastener, it arrives on my doorstep tomorrow, not sometime later : https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn?navid=2106272&searchterm=slitting+blades

Posted

David,  the hollow ground Sears veneer blades are sometimes found on eBay.  These are 7-1/2in blades.  If my memory is correct they come with a 1/2in arbor hole with a 5/8in knockout.  Anyhow, the one that I have fits the 5/8in arbor on my Delta table saw.  Make sure that the saw comes in its original package.  If not and if it has been sharpened the sharpeners often set the teeth even if told by the customer not to do so!

 

I also found some similar 10” no name Chinese made blades at our local Menards store.  Menards is a midwestern competitor to Home Depot except with a better selection of odd ball things that are useful to us.  These blades were dirt cheap.  You might also want to browse Harbor Freight for the same sort of things.

 

Roger

Posted
On 12/27/2022 at 8:52 PM, Roger Pellett said:

David,  the hollow ground Sears veneer blades are sometimes found on eBay.  These are 7-1/2in blades.  If my memory is correct they come with a 1/2in arbor hole with a 5/8in knockout.  Anyhow, the one that I have fits the 5/8in arbor on my Delta table saw.  Make sure that the saw comes in its original package.  If not and if it has been sharpened the sharpeners often set the teeth even if told by the customer not to do so!

 

I also found some similar 10” no name Chinese made blades at our local Menards store.  Menards is a midwestern competitor to Home Depot except with a better selection of odd ball things that are useful to us.  These blades were dirt cheap.  You might also want to browse Harbor Freight for the same sort of things.

 

Roger

Thanks Roger. Sorry about the slow response. Happy New Year

Unfortunately we only have Home Depot and Lowe's here. Menard's have refused to ship out of their areas of business as I have attempted several time in the past. I have tried a couple no name Chinese saw blades but have reverted back 100% to either Bosch's Freud or Diablo. I just found that I have a fine finish 80 tooth /098 kerf Diablo 1080X in the saw blade drawer I had forgotten which I'll give a try

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Been more than a month but thought I would relay some thoughts and experiences with my Dremel saw.  I ordered the saw setup jig from Radical RC.  Started to do a tuneup but immediately ran into problems.  The part that raised and lowered the blade had stopped working.  Started taking the saw apart to find the trouble and ended up doing a complete disassembly.  Turns out the problem was the L shaped elevating screw had jumped out of the hole in the frame (part 6) and was turning free without doing anything.  Problem turned out to be the spring (part 13 on the parts list for the saw) had broken.  This is supposed to keep the elevating screw in the hole.  Found the spring in the saw and I guess someone had replaced it in the past.  What I found was a hooked piece of brass wire that had broken off.   It doesn't show it clearly on the parts diagram but it looks like it is supposed to hook over the carrier (part 2).  I tried making a replacement part out of brass wire but to make it strong enough the wire had to be pretty think making it difficult to get it around the elevating screw in the tight space available.  Next used .75mm drill rod (like wire but stiffer) and after some adventures getting it into the right shape I did manage to get it to work.  While I had it apart I went ahead and did some other things.  One was to use a punch to spread the tabs on the elevating mechanism to tighten them up on the elevating screw bushing which removed some slop from the process.  Lessons learned is that you have to keep an eye on the internals of the saw to keep everything working right.  Disassembly was actually pretty straight forward but it would have been nice to have a step by step manual available.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Anyone here familiar with the Hammond, Ben Franklin Trim-O-Saw?  These are printer's saws, to cut lead for printing, but woodworkers are buying them to cut very small pieces of wood safely.  The wood clamps into a wonderfully sturdy assembly that you can slide through the spinning blade.  It is set up like a table saw.

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