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Charles Green

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  1. Fantastic! Takes me back to the historical museum in Juneau AK. The museum's display of a Tlingit (mannequin) outfitted for open-water fishing, standing next to his seal-skin kayak - the raw material for every single item procured by his or his wife's hand and then made with their hands with their hand-made tools to make it possible for the husband to serve his family and keep them alive - that display choked me up. That's a fantastic model.
  2. JRGlasoe and CW Tom: First off: Welcome JRGlasoe. The three of us have Minnesotan connections; both sides of my family came from MN and most still are there. My Dad's from Motley, just west of Brainard and my Mom grew up on a farm near Parker's Prairie. Parker's Prairie is near to the abrupt change in land form, from woods and lakes to prairie, mentioned by CW Tom. The town of Lake Woebegone from Garrison Keillor's Prairie Home Companion , the town "on the edge of the prairie", is fictitiously located near Parker's Prairie. CW Tom, your mention of this a
  3. Cutting the contour in the edge of a razor blade and using many light strokes with the blade at 0 to 15 degrees (as many have recommended) has worked for me. Straight-grain box or pear work very well. The Dremel abrasive disks may be too wide for some profiles. Dedeco supplies the dental trade. They sell disks as narrow as 0.005 inch. Don't even chuck one of these up without eye protection!
  4. Decoyman: The offset in Scrubby's first photo looks excessive, I assumed some photo induced distortion was present. A closer look makes me agree the whole fence was misaligned. On my saw the fence's angle away from the blade starts at the arbor's mid-point. At the back-end of the fence it only amounts to a 0.005 inch off-set, but it's enough to keep the stock off the back-side of the blade.
  5. Scrubbyj427: Take a close look and you will see the deviation starts at the center-line of the arbor. This angle provides relief so the stock passing by the back-side of the blade doesn't catch on the blade and get thrown back at you. It's a common and recommended thing to do on any table-saw rip-fence. It's usually done by slightly angling the entire fence. Jim's way assures precise positioning of the stock on the way into the blade. By the half-way mark, the cut is done.
  6. Hello Decoyman: MSC Industrial Supply, USA company with a division in the UK sells an enormous variety of blades under the categories of "Slotting" blades and "Jeweler's" blades. You will find any arbor dia., blade dia., tooth count or blade thickness you want in HHS, Tin coated or some in solid carbide. You will have to establish and account - no cost, just contact info - and there is a $25.00 minimum order. Their catalog ranges to 6000 pages. It's fun to look through.
  7. Bob: Tru Vue sells a wide range of archival glass and acrylics for framing and case makers. Their acrylic product under the name of "Optimum" has all the advantages of glass without the weight or shattering hazard. It is expensive.
  8. Bob: The bad odor from hide glue occurs when a pot of glue is left to set for a few days, unused, until it turns rancid. Discard unused glue when done with a glue up and there will be no problem. The glue comes in a dried granular form that is mixed with water and heated just prior to use. The dry granules are odorless. I am involved in making a display case for a Native American artifact; a wooden, Tlingit halibut hook, and this raised concern about the archival properties of glues, finishes and types of wood. All common "wood glues" off-gas ascetic acid as do
  9. These are only my observations on CAD and CAD users: The economics of my time as a hobbyist is blissfully void of the "How long?" and "How much?" demands of commercial production. I can comfortably answer these questions with: "As long as it takes." and "I'll do with or without." On the other hand, commercial economics demands these questions be addressed and in business, CAD gets the nod. CAD is faster than work made with pencil or pen and ink. In my hobbies, plans are made with pencil on paper, on a drafting table with an arm. I have no practical experience nor personal in
  10. I use sweet gum for framing. With it, I've never encountered a problem fairing a hull's interior with a rasp. The cut/coarseness of a rasp, coupled with the characteristics of other types of wood may conspire to cause chip-out. The ends of the Auriou chair maker's rasp are shaped differently but both are stiched the same. One end of the Corradi sculptor's rasp has wood-file teeth on it. The file teeth will not contribute to chip-out.
  11. As to the "Chair Makers Rasp" referred to earlier: I looked under the title of "Sculptor's Rasp" and found one similar to the one I have. It's made by Corradi and is about half the price of the Auriou Chair Makers Rasp. The Auriou is hand stiched which accounts for its high price but it will cut better than the Corradi. The Corradi is good - The Auriuo will be better.
  12. Mercator: You are now one of four MSWers reported to be in the Boise/Meridian area! Sounds like a meeting is in order - someday! Charles Green, Boise
  13. A curved, chair makers rasp does a good job of fairing the concave, inboard surfaces of the frames. The one I have was purchased a while ago; I can't remember where I got it. The only marking on it is "Italy". I checked the Web. The only one that comes up now is made by Auriou. A chair makers rasp has rasp teeth on one end and wood file teeth on the other to smooth. Follow up with sand paper.
  14. I started out in an apartment and I like things quiet anyway, so I started out with an 80 cubic foot bottle of compressed nitrogen. It's dry and comes from the regulator - regulated. I have an old Badger single action; no model number on it and a Paasche VL double action. No mechanical problems with either of them. Cleaning is the most important part for trouble-free use of any airbrush.
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