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Charles Green

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  1. Jim's latest accessory is the sliding table-top. It's an excellent accessory for precise repetitive cuts, especially angular ones. The tall rip-fence is very useful. A USA company, MSC Industrial Supply, offers a bewildering number of circular saw blades suitable for the Byrnes saw. Look under Slitting Blades and Jeweler Saw Blades. MSC has a UK branch which may make ordering blades somewhat easier for you.
  2. The cant frames are depicted as though laying on a flat surface. If depicted as though in position (canted) on the deadwood, the projections you refer to would line up fair and the beveled surface at the bottom of each half-frame would appear as a line. I have two editions of Davis' book. Neither has a pocket for plans. As far as I know, Davis never produced a set of full-size plans for the Lexington.
  3. Some allowance for ventilation is recommended. The grooves will do the job of holding the glass. A loose fit (0.005 inch/0.13 mm oversize) will not be large enough to draw attention and will help with air exchange.
  4. I have been in your situation (in-house-model-shop dust control). Gramophone-like cones are available that provide cross-table air movement when attached to a shop-vac. I made a vertical air-movement version. Home improvement stores sell sheets of plastic grid with 1/2 inch openings for light fixture covering. I cut out an 18 inch square of it to serve as the top of a box with sides made of 1x4. The bottom was made of 1/4 inch press-board. I mounted the box on the side of my bench with hinges so it folded out of the way when not in use. A hole in the center of the bottom acc
  5. At least you still have the wood. It looks like it tried to get up and walk away! I have worked on ornamental boxes built with sides of 1/4 inch maple. To prevent warping after construction, I have glued two sheets of flat 1/8 inch together, making sure the grain in each piece runs in opposite directions. Each piece cancels out the other's tendency to warp. After your efforts to flatten your wood, it will still tend to want to wander. As wood is sliced to ever thinner dimension its rigidity is reduced. At some point, any internal stress will overcome the wood's
  6. Bob: I have a 1902 Disston & Sons catalog (copy). On page 138 it clearly states the nib "...has no practical use whatever, it merely serves to break the straight line of the back of the blade and is an ornamentation only."
  7. The two that go back as far as I can remember were both saws. The first was my Dad's prized Winchester hand saw. I was allowed to use it but was admonished to be careful with it. Without him knowing, I left it outside overnight. The dew got to it - no rust but it was stained. To this day I kick myself for it. That and a few (many actually) other acts of stupid negligence as I was growing up - I'm surprised my Dad didn't put me and a bunch of rocks in a gunny sack, take a walk to the river and come back empty-handed. The other tool was a Dremel, power jig-saw I bought with my
  8. As per above, set a feather-board just in front of the blades entry point. If there is room, set another feather-board in front of the that one. For a small model-saw, you may have to make your own feather-boards and be creative in how to anchor them. Do not vary the feed speed - don't pause halfway through to change your stance or grip - use one continuous push. Variations in the hardness of a piece of wood will effect the amount of wood the blade will remove. Check the fence's alignment. A tiny amount of relief/angulation away from the blade will p
  9. Beautiful work(!), but my eye is drawn to the isolated, small port near the stern, situated at the water-line. What was its function?
  10. Requiring wood pre-milled to a specific dimension places a serious limit on what you will be able to find. Types of wood to look for include: box - you will most likely have to settle for Asian or South American varieties, pear or any other fruit-wood and holly. These woods are essentially pore-less and do not exhibit out-of-scale grain patterns. It's worth going the extra mile to find European box (Buxus sempervirens). It's expensive but for small parts a little goes a long way.
  11. My cat would not be happy if he were not allowed to go outside but when he does he pauses at the door and looks around for danger. He is terrified of deer and dogs and is cautious when other cats are near. There are racoons, badgers, fox and cayotes around too and since he's still alive I can assume he knows to avoid them. None of the hawks around here are big enough to tangle with him, but I have seen them circling over him, sizing him up. I don't think he knows hawks could be a threat. There is no pause or look around at the door when he comes inside. Inside, he knows ther
  12. Kurt has the right answer. I will add, if the factory foot gets in the way it is easy to fabricate one for a special application.
  13. The glue you have described is "hide glue", made of animal hide. The hide is processed into a granular form that when mixed 50 - 50 with water and then heated, produces a honey-like glue. It has been in use for hundreds of years. I am not sure of when its use started or when it was replaced with modern glues, but up to some date, the fantastic old models made by the Masters were assembled with hide glue as was all antique furniture. Most hide glue is made from cattle hide but rabbit and fish-skins are also used. The various types of hide have different strength characteristics. The fish
  14. Shipshaper: Beautiful case; looks like walnut. Is the platform cherry? How did you attach the vertical corner supports to the base?
  15. Since these are stern ports on a weather deck, could it be there were no lids?
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