Dr PS - Paul Schulze Posted May 17, 2020 Share #1 Posted May 17, 2020 I am trying to figure out how the strakes on a clinker built ship or boat overlapped (the sud) at the stem and stern. I find it possible to bend strakes from having sud to not having sud as you approach the stem and stern but I feel this may be incorrect. If the strakes do overlap at the stem and stern, how are they joined at the stem and stern posts? Are they beveled or notched in some way? Is there an article or post on this which I might have missed. Thanks mtaylor 1 Quote Paul Cutty Sark, Scientific Models (no build log) 18th Century Armed Longboat, Model Shipways Civil War Coffee Wagon and Limber, Model Shipways side project New Bedford Whaleboat, Model Shipways Civil War Gatling Gun, Model Shipways side project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted May 17, 2020 Share #2 Posted May 17, 2020 Paul, Answering this quick and dirty: druxey, Mark P, Bob Cleek and 2 others 5 Quote NRG member 50 years Current: NMS HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - POF framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted May 17, 2020 Share #3 Posted May 17, 2020 (edited) Good Morning Paul; There was a very clear photograph posted recently by Vladimir Wairoa in his build log for the Cutty Sark model he is building. This shows the run of the stern planking beautifully (this is the stern, note the rudder pintles, must be a whaler; although the bow would be identical in a transom-sterned boat) In conjunction with Jaager's post above, this should make things clear. As well as a rebate, the planks can have a chamfer between them, to a line drawn between the two internal angles. this is easier to construct on a model. All the best, Mark P Edited May 17, 2020 by Mark P mtaylor, Chuck Seiler, MEDDO and 1 other 4 Quote Previously built models (long ago, aged 18-25ish) POB construction. 32 gun frigate, scratch-built sailing model, Underhill plans. 2 masted topsail schooner, Underhill plans. Started at around that time, but unfinished: 74 gun ship 'Bellona' NMM plans. POB On the drawing board: POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research. Always on the go: Research into Royal Navy sailing warship design, construction and use, from Tudor times to 1790. Member of NRG, SNR, NRS, SMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr PS - Paul Schulze Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share #4 Posted May 17, 2020 Thanks Jaager and Mark, I think I am am beginning to see. I will need a chamfer on the upper edge of each strake, near the stern and stem posts, and a rabbet down the keel as well as the stem and stern posts. Is this correct? Paul mtaylor 1 Quote Paul Cutty Sark, Scientific Models (no build log) 18th Century Armed Longboat, Model Shipways Civil War Coffee Wagon and Limber, Model Shipways side project New Bedford Whaleboat, Model Shipways Civil War Gatling Gun, Model Shipways side project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark P Posted May 17, 2020 Share #5 Posted May 17, 2020 Good Afternoon Paul; Yes, you will need a chamfer on the bottom edge of one strake, and the top edge of the corresponding strake. The amount of overlap stays constant, but the angle of the chamfer changes. It will be approximately vertical where it starts, and around 45 degrees by the time it reaches the stem/stern. The rabbet will be as you describe. All the best, Mark P mtaylor 1 Quote Previously built models (long ago, aged 18-25ish) POB construction. 32 gun frigate, scratch-built sailing model, Underhill plans. 2 masted topsail schooner, Underhill plans. Started at around that time, but unfinished: 74 gun ship 'Bellona' NMM plans. POB On the drawing board: POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research. Always on the go: Research into Royal Navy sailing warship design, construction and use, from Tudor times to 1790. Member of NRG, SNR, NRS, SMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr PS - Paul Schulze Posted May 17, 2020 Author Share #6 Posted May 17, 2020 Thanks all. I have never tackled a clinker model before and none of what has been said was even hinted at in the instructions. Paul mtaylor and Mark P 2 Quote Paul Cutty Sark, Scientific Models (no build log) 18th Century Armed Longboat, Model Shipways Civil War Coffee Wagon and Limber, Model Shipways side project New Bedford Whaleboat, Model Shipways Civil War Gatling Gun, Model Shipways side project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted May 18, 2020 Share #7 Posted May 18, 2020 A good book on building model open boats will also show you how to do this. I find a rolling bevel is easier to do at small scale, especially if the planks are only 1/64" thick! The clinker boat at the back is 4" long. Wacom, mtaylor and Bob Cleek 3 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr PS - Paul Schulze Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share #8 Posted May 18, 2020 4 hours ago, druxey said: A good book on building model open boats will also show you how to do this. I find a rolling bevel is easier to do at small scale, especially if the planks are only 1/64" thick! The clinker boat at the back is 4" long. Very nice work 😎 mtaylor 1 Quote Paul Cutty Sark, Scientific Models (no build log) 18th Century Armed Longboat, Model Shipways Civil War Coffee Wagon and Limber, Model Shipways side project New Bedford Whaleboat, Model Shipways Civil War Gatling Gun, Model Shipways side project Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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