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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. I finished this model and then I decided to post log pictures. There are lots of good build logs in this forum so I will post a sequence of progress pictures with few comments. I used a wide removable tape to spile the strokes. A pencil was used to mark the in-place strake and bulkhead marks for next strake. Tape was removed and marks joined using a French Curve. Tape was laid on wood and wood was cut and shaped
  2. The sail mounting and sail rigging was completed. The oars were carved, painted and bundled. The Gokstad is finished. 😎
  3. I assume the prototype had black and yellow shields else I would have gone with more colors. The boat builders did a fabulous job and they had fantastic skills for the tenth century. I finally finished the sail. Using the following steps : - Cut sail out - Mark sew lines and edge fold line with lead pencil - Cut corners for folding - Fold sail edges over twice using fabric glue and a hot iron - Mark and “punch” small holes in sail edge every 1/2” for needles. These holes will also be used to attach sail to mast.
  4. I assume the prototype had black and yellow shields else I would have gone with more colors. The boat builders did a fabulous job and they had fantastic skills for the tenth century.
  5. Finally have the shields done, painted and in place. The picture shows just one side done. I have decided to skip the oars for now and do the sail next.
  6. I enjoyed seeing your work and what I see looks like a fine build so far. I really like the Dusek kit. I am slowing trying to finish mine but other things have taken me away for a while.
  7. I thought about using acetone to free them up, but allowing the strakes to follow their natural flow would result in shortening the strakes at the stem. The only solution then would be to cut new boards I believe you are correct in saying the shields will hide small errors. I have not had this issue before but I have learned I have to be more careful.
  8. Yes there is a small kink on that side near the stern. I noticed it later after I was finished planking and did not know how to fix it except to remove several layers and reshape the frames as needed. That option was nixed as I have been using CA glue for the strakes. I should have been more careful and watched the fairing as I proceeded. Thanks for your comments, Paul
  9. I tried to edit out the last four photos in last post with no luck. Would like to know how to solve this reoccurring problem.
  10. I have not posted in a while but progress was made. The following photos and brief comments will take this log up to date. Finished Keel all stained. Below, the keel, frames and false deck were simultaneously assembled and glued. Next the garboard is fitted and glued. Then other strakes were attached. The deck and interior. The mast foot is fashioned using a dremel. The deck was
  11. Thanks all. I have never tackled a clinker model before and none of what has been said was even hinted at in the instructions. Paul
  12. Thanks Jaager and Mark, I think I am am beginning to see. I will need a chamfer on the upper edge of each strake, near the stern and stem posts, and a rabbet down the keel as well as the stem and stern posts. Is this correct? Paul
  13. I am trying to figure out how the strakes on a clinker built ship or boat overlapped (the sud) at the stem and stern. I find it possible to bend strakes from having sud to not having sud as you approach the stem and stern but I feel this may be incorrect. If the strakes do overlap at the stem and stern, how are they joined at the stem and stern posts? Are they beveled or notched in some way? Is there an article or post on this which I might have missed. Thanks
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