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Dr PS - Paul Schulze

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Everything posted by Dr PS - Paul Schulze

  1. Three Thwarts and their Knees essentially finished. Yet to decide if I want to paint the center of Thwarts. I kind of like the look as is right now. We’ll see. Anyway, one and a half Thwarts to go. As a break in the action, I worked on the Box, Cuddy Board and Lion’s Tongue. Then I added a bit of paint to check out the color scheme. After looking at the photo below, I see the unstained Thwart may need straightening. Interesting how photos sometimes reveal things you miss otherwise. I will check in out tomorrow.
  2. One Thwart and its Knees in place. I find this process is very slow but the laminate procedure seems to work out well. Ready for the next one. I am using Minwax Golden Oak Stain. I may paint the center portion of the Thwarts dark brown or black I will wait and see how the whole boat comes together before I make a decision on this.
  3. Arthur, The Thwarts, Thigh Board and Cuddy will be stained light oak. Maybe the Thwarts will have black or dark brown centers. Not sure what I want to do yet. I think the Centerboard Case will remain blue.
  4. Arthur, she looks absolutely wonderful. I am struck by how much great detail you put into her. Congratulations and I hope your move go well.
  5. Finally got the stem and stern sheets done and in the process discovered that I got the Sheet beams set a bit too high above the keel. When installing them, I measured on the plans from the Inwale down to the top of the beams and ended up putting the bottom of the beams at that position on the boat. This resulted in the Sheets being wider than the plans and an interesting herringbone pattern which I kinda like. Anyway, the height of the Sheets increase as a result of this mistake would only amount to about two inches on the prototype. After the Sheets were made, they were stained. Then I painted the inside of the boat. The Gunwales will be black.
  6. I would say that scratch building oars is the best option as it seems easier and less time consuming. Good job.
  7. Thanks John - I have a question which you might answer. When the Gunwale and Inwale stripes are in place, is there any additional cap rail strip which needs to be added? I do not find any reference to it in the manual or on build logs. However, in the parts list there are strips designated as for cap strips and sheets.
  8. I just found your log. Absolutely nice build and welcome to MSW.
  9. Hah, I did make a change of plans on the paint scheme. After researching museum pieces and reading several articles, what I was proposing was within historical accuracy. However, I found some interesting paint schemes which I liked better than my first one. As of now I am thinking about the following: Hull to Sheer - White Rub Rail - Black Sheer - Red Gunwale/Inwale - Black Wales, Thwart Risers and Thwarts - Buff Ceilings - Light Blue Stem and Stern Sheets - Light Oak Stain After I make the Sheets, I plan to paint the interior so I will be heading into several days without posting.
  10. Arthur, Hurry up and finish the longboat. Then you can get started and catch up with me on this one. LOL I have the Inwales, Gunwales and roller in place. And now I am getting very close to color decisions time. Right now I am leaning toward the following: Hull to Sheer - Dark Green Rub Rail - Black Sheer - White Gunwale/Inwale - Black From Inwale to first ceiling plank - Light Green or ? Ceilings - Gray Thwarts - Light Brown & Black ? All else - Natural or Stained And of course I reserve the right to change my mind.
  11. Very nice Arthur. I like your innovative procedure and final look. You are actually getting yourself ready for scratch building. Just curious as to how long it took to make one oar. After a couple were made and I had the procedure in hand, I was able to carve one out in less than 30 minutes. I used to be afraid of carving but now it is actually one of my most favorite things to do. Either way yours look great and you have provided an excellent alternative to a lot of carving.
  12. Yes it has some new interesting challenges for me to learn to overcome. This one is definitely helping me learn new skills which should be helpful for more complicated builds. I am glad I went this route. As I read ahead, I see that there are several more learning curves facing me.
  13. First cut was deep enough to include the rabbet cut for the gunwales The second was cut parallel to the drawn line to form the outboard side of the Cheek. The rabbet cut was then shaped to give a fit. Finally the scarf was made for the inwale.
  14. I have taken a different approach and think I am on the right track now. I will post my results when finished.
  15. I see how cardstock would work great fro 2D; however, the Cheek pieces have a complicated 3D twist with scarfs. I think I can get the scarfs OK if I can get the basic twists down. I can probably used cardstock to get the proper length and height of the Cheek and then do some carving on the resulting block. I will continue working on it - trial and error. If other builders of the MS NBW have scale drawings of the Cheeks, I would appreciate any help.
  16. I am having real problems making the Cheek pieces. The dimensions on the plan sheets don’t help very much. I have attempted several pieces and none seem very close to what others have achieved. Not only do I have to get one right, I will have to cut another matching one for the other side. I have several pictures of what others have done, but descriptions are very sparse. Some have indicated that they are not too hard to make. Before I waste more daylight and wood, I would appreciate any tips from others.
  17. I have completed the ceiling. I used 3/64” x 5/16” strips for all ceiling planks except #6 on the port side where the gap was a bit too wide. Here I cut a plank to fit from a 1/2” wide strip.
  18. Centerboard Trunk and Mast Step have been completed. Reinforcing strips were glued to the top of the keel in two places for mounting rods.
  19. I have now completed installing the Thwart Risers, adjacent ceiling pieces and beams for the stem and stern sheets. The Thwart Risers and Ceilings will be painted so I have chosen not to use nail fasteners. The outer strakes will also be painted. Next will be the Centerboard Trunk and Mast Step.
  20. The frames were finally completed. They were held in place for the PVA glue to dry with a clamp at the gunwale strake and a pin at keel. The thwart risers were also attached with PVA glue at a distance below the top edge of the gunwale strake as indicated on Sheet 2 or the plans. The risers were made from kit supplied 1/16” x 1/4” strips.
  21. Looking really good 😎 Aren’t medicine bottles great. What did we ever do without them?

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