Clinker planking - Dusek Le Cerf

[Adrenalin19991]

Hi all,

 

Im building a kit of the Dusek kit of the Le Cerf which has clinker planking from below the gunwales to the keel. This is supplied in precut 1.5mm plywood which is planked over a smooth layer of planking for its double planked essentially.

 

My question is - given that the planking must start from the garboard strake and proceed upwards, for over 20 planks per side - how do I ensure the planking lays on overlapped in such a way so as not to 'run-out' when reaching the sheer strakes? By this i mean the planking is meant to have hood ends which lie flat against the stem....not with planking running out as would be the case if the first garboard planks were not perfectly positioned ie one end a bit high the other end a bit low.

 

This seems to be a new-ish model from what I can gather and as such there isn't a resource of build logs etc.

 

Ive thought about making thin cardboard or paper patterns for each plank and using them to accurately locate the first garboard plank by marking the lands at the bow and stern for all planks, starting at the sheer and moving down thus to locate the garboard which sets the course for all following planks and lap lines but think given the margin for error is so small given its over 20 odd planks.....even a mill out on only a couple of strakes could be problematic. The only guide in the instructions is a picture of the bow and sterns with a ruler vertically shown indicating that something should be done to line off the planks.

 

The other option is just to position the garboard which, like all the parts in the kit pretty accurately shaped as best it fits against the keel and wing it hoping that the upper most sheer level plank lies with a bearing on both the stem and stern.

 

Maybe I should look to the viking longboat kits on this one?

 

Many thanks for any help.

[Jaager]

I think that the garboard is the key factor.  The imperative is to avoid having it creep up  at the stem and stern.  The horizontal part of the rabbet ends farther back than is intuitive.  It is important to start cutting into the plank where the horizontal ends. 

The other suggestion is to use the planking fan to measure the spilling for each strake anew. 

[Bob Cleek]

Presuming the planks are accurately laser-cut to shape, I'd suggest carefully lining off the plank overlaps on your plank faces. As you work upwards, the lining should go a long ways preventing "creep" as you hang each successive plank.

[Adrenalin19991]

Thanks all,

 

I thought I might be able to mark the hood ends, and the edge of each plank by starting at the top with a properly placed sheer plank and work down - how accurate it works out im not sure. Naturally id not at all fasten the planks as I realize it must be planked from the garboard up....but cant see why i cant locate the lap lines this way - still its messy.

 

Im actually very tempted to just locate the garboard as best it fits neither too high ort too low on the stem and stern rabbets and wing it.