HMS Bounty by DaveBaxt - FINISHED - Amati - 1:60

[DaveBaxt]

Update. Here is a few photos of the completed wales. Also I did a test on a few planks and secured several together then applied the permanent marker. It didn,t turn out as good as I hoped but think this might need a bit a practice as the lines didn't turn out to even. I tried one on its own which I thought turned out pretty good son although very time consuming I do think this will be important I get this right. 

[Gregory]

Quote

Gregory are you an advocate of CA glue for most jobs? best regards Dave

 

I use CA a lot.  Mostly anywhere it is not very small pieces.

 

I used it for planking with veneer on my current Resolution  kit project

 

I used to avoid it because I had trouble managing overflow at edges.  Then I learned to keep a swab and acetone close by, and have learned it's pretty easy to keep mistakes cleaned up.

Edited January 15, 2021 by Gregory

[DaveBaxt]

48 minutes ago, Gregory said:

 

I use CA a lot.  Mostly anywhere it is not very small pieces.

 

I used it for planking with veneer on my current Resolution  kit project

 

I used to avoid it because I had trouble managing overflow at edges.  Then I learned to keep a swab and acetone close by, and have learned it's pretty easy to keep mistakes cleaned up.

I have some acetone so will be ready next time. Thanks for another tip. I am learning all the time. Best regards Dave

[Jerry]

Dave,

When using the permanent marker....hold the marker in one hand then lightly pass the plank across the side of the marker.  Don't use the  tip of the marker or you'll get too much ink.  And as far as accelerator goes you'll find the spray bottle much easier than swabbing it.  believe me I tried both and there's a big difference.  But you do what ever make you happy.

 

Jerry

Edited January 15, 2021 by Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

11 hours ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

When using the permanent marker....hold the marker in one hand then lightly pass the plank across the side of the marker.  Don't use the  tip of the marker or you'll get too much ink.  And as far as accelerator goes you'll find the spray bottle much easier than swabbing it.  believe me I tried both and there's a big difference.  But you do what ever make you happy.

 

Jerry

Jerry .Thanks for the tips which I am really grateful. Regarding the deck planks , are you doing one at a time or a bunch of them clipped together? I will have another practice and try your method with the marker pen. I have decided to concentrate on the decking and not sand & seal the hull yet as I now understand ( after googling lots) that glue does not take too well to sand & sealer unless sanded down to the wood again. So I thought I would do most of the gluing first including the channels and bulwark caps etc. I might have to hold back on sealing the deck as there looks to be lots of things to be glued to the deck.So waiting to do the sand & sealer until almost ready to paint. No doubt I will change my mind at some point and do it differently. Ha ha I am not sure following the instructions is necessarily the best way forward.

                      Jerry may I ask, what glue did you use to glue things to the deck especially the metal items? On my last ship I tried using an epoxy glue but ended up using CA glue. For anything made of wood I used PVA.

Edited January 16, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Hello Dave,

With respect to choice of glues, I did exactly what you are planning to do.  Metal to wood, CA...Wood to wood, PVA  (Elmers white glue or Titebond).  Also for your information, I sealed and varnished the deck before I attached any fittings.  The glue will hold to the water based varnish.  Most hobby shop varnishes are water based.  Now the decking...I colored one strip at a time as I fixed it to the deck.. Remember, mark only one end and one side of each piece of decking plank.  I hope you understand what I mean.  

 

I hope you don't mind my late reply as I have not been feeling to well lately and have been spending a lot of time in bed.  Looks like I picked up a bit of a stomach bug.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

14 hours ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave,

With respect to choice of glues, I did exactly what you are planning to do.  Metal to wood, CA...Wood to wood, PVA  (Elmers white glue or Titebond).  Also for your information, I sealed and varnished the deck before I attached any fittings.  The glue will hold to the water based varnish.  Most hobby shop varnishes are water based.  Now the decking...I colored one strip at a time as I fixed it to the deck.. Remember, mark only one end and one side of each piece of decking plank.  I hope you understand what I mean.  

 

I hope you don't mind my late reply as I have not been feeling to well lately and have been spending a lot of time in bed.  Looks like I picked up a bit of a stomach bug.

Best,

Jerry

Jerry thanks for your comments regarding the varnish and will now use a water based varnish on the deck planks which I have some from my last model. I am sorry to hear you are feeling unwell and hope it is nothing serious . I also hope you recover quickly. Please do not worry regarding replies as I am already thankful for you help. I almost at the stage of planking the deck after making all deck strips in one go. Perhaps I would have made a better job doing one at a time and will discard any that are not up to scratch. I just need to mark the deck for the planking. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

21 hours ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave,

With respect to choice of glues, I did exactly what you are planning to do.  Metal to wood, CA...Wood to wood, PVA  (Elmers white glue or Titebond).  Also for your information, I sealed and varnished the deck before I attached any fittings.  The glue will hold to the water based varnish.  Most hobby shop varnishes are water based.  Now the decking...I colored one strip at a time as I fixed it to the deck.. Remember, mark only one end and one side of each piece of decking plank.  I hope you understand what I mean.  

 

I hope you don't mind my late reply as I have not been feeling to well lately and have been spending a lot of time in bed.  Looks like I picked up a bit of a stomach bug.

Best,

Jerry

Jerry thanks for your comments regarding the varnish and will now use a water based varnish on the deck planks which I have some from my last model. I am sorry to hear you are feeling unwell and hope it is nothing serious . I also hope you recover quickly. Please do not worry regarding replies as I am already thankful for you help. I almost at the stage of planking the deck after making all deck strips in one go. Perhaps I would have made a better job doing one at a time and will discard any that are not up to scratch. I just need to mark the deck for the planking. 

Jerry here is a photo of the internal stringer and capping rail  from the instructions. As this is the next thing do do I wonder if you managed to part no 43,44 and 45 just by soaking the planks. no 44 looks to be straight forward, hoever parts 43 & 45 look to be very difficult considering they are bent edgeways and are 1 x 3mm and 1 x 5mm or did you make some kind of jig to help you get the curve. Best regards Dave.

Edited January 17, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Dave,

Again I have to go by memory...I believe all I did was soak them  And remember, use Cd and accelerator.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

37 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

Again I have to go by memory...I believe all I did was soak them  And remember, use Cd and accelerator.

Best,

Jerry

Cheers jerry I am still waiting for my accelerator but shouldn't have too long to wait.I can always get on with something else while I am waiting. The instructions say the rudder next job after the internal stringer or I could give the hull a coat of sand N Seal.Hope you are feeling better.

[DaveBaxt]

Deck planking completed and holes cut out . Not too shabby. Decided to just go with the planks supplied in the kit so quite a variation in colours. The planking still requires sanding  a little bit and stringers fitted. I think I have done a reasonable job but will take a bit more care with marking the edges .Planks were a 4 plank configuration and 120mm long. Seems to me a reasonable pattern but not sure if they are of scale and maybe I should consider 100mm length. 

Just received the CA accelerator and what a difference. I would like to thank yo Jerry for pointing me in the right direction.. I have managed to fit the 3 x 1mm internal stringer although still difficult due to bending edgeways It was a lot easier than without the accelerator.I have left the capping rail 1 x 5 mm until tomorrow and allow the thicker walnut strips to soak over night.

Edited January 18, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Hello Dave...

well i didn't expect anything different; our deck planking is excellent.  Real decks also have color variance so I would not try to do anything to change  the appearance,  I'm still a little under the weather so I'm slow in answering your posts; please forgive me for that. I meant to ask you where in Britain do you live?  Was it London? My wife and I have spent the good part of two summers in Hertford a few years ago.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

45 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave...

well i didn't expect anything different; our deck planking is excellent.  Real decks also have color variance so I would not try to do anything to change  the appearance,  I'm still a little under the weather so I'm slow in answering your posts; please forgive me for that. I meant to ask you where in Britain do you live?  Was it London? My wife and I have spent the good part of two summers in Hertford a few years ago.

Best,

Jerry

Hello jerry. Sorry to hear you are still a little under the weather. I live in the North East of England and fairly near the border with Scotland in a town called Washington which has historical links with George Washington's great grand parents  De Wesstington .There home ,Washington old hall is in our village.

Hope you enjoyed your visit to our little country as much as we have enjoyed our many visits to the states. Hope you recover soon Jerry.Take care best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Internal stringers completed and cap rails at the bow fitted. I think the 1mm x 5 mm walnut cap rails would be impssible to fit without a combination of soaking for 24 hours, roughly shaping to the hull and finally using CA with the accelerator to help. Here is a few more photos after treating the hull and deck planking with sand & sealer which has definitely enhanced  the wood grain. Next step I believe is fitting the rudder,planking the internal bulwarks and mounting the stern castle. Now it gets to the interesting part .Although so far there have been parts that have got me thinking.

[Jerry]

Good morning, Dave:

First of all I must say that the deck finish looks excellent.  The satin finish looks perfect and the planking is top notch.  You are well on your way to a beautiful model.  From here on in you will find yourself enjoying the build more each time you sit down to work on it.  You are doing meticulous work and I'm happy that you have been able to understand each procedure.  By the way I'm glad you didn't spend the money for a fancy "slip."  

I hope your day is going well.

Best regards,

Jerry

 

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

Good morning, Dave:

First of all I must say that the deck finish looks excellent.  The satin finish looks perfect and the planking is top notch.  You are well on your way to a beautiful model.  From here on in you will find yourself enjoying the build more each time you sit down to work on it.  You are doing meticulous work and I'm happy that you have been able to understand each procedure.  By the way I'm glad you didn't spend the money for a fancy "slip."  

I hope your day is going well.

Best regards,

Jerry

 

Thank you Jerry hope you are feeling better and for your kind words. I still believe that I need to a give everything another rub down with very fine sand paper just to smooth the tiny hairs which I understand is what happens after using sand & sealer. Then one i am ready to paint give every thing another coat of sand and sealer. I also understand you can use varnish on top of it if you feel it is necessary. I am currently sorting out the balsa wood required for the stern castle which is looking a bit odd. However I am just going off the Amati video which is what the guy makes on his model. I have to agree with him I can,t see for my life how the pieces supplied in the kit would fit. Here is a link to the video. Look at about 6.5 minutes in.

Regards the slip. I have saved the money towards my next ship which I am thinking of  the Endeavour  by Caldercraft, however it looks very much like the Bounty so not sure whether or not to try something different like the HMS Snake or something with a lot of guns. Eventually I would like to take on the Victory, but feel I need to learn a lot more before I tackle anything so grand. Best regards Dave

 

Edited January 19, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Dave, thanks for the video which I looked at.  I see what you mean and of course I have no idea at this time what I did.  I can't even remember my  middle name.  Anyway, here's a picture of the stern on my Bounty which, when looking at it close up now, looks terrible.  Things don't look too tidy at this point (on my ship).  Keep  moving. bro.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

Dave, thanks for the video which I looked at.  I see what you mean and of course I have no idea at this time what I did.  I can't even remember my  middle name.  Anyway, here's a picture of the stern on my Bounty which, when looking at it close up now, looks terrible.  Things don't look too tidy at this point (on my ship).  Keep  moving. bro.

Jerry

Jerry looks to me that you build yours up with something as well.  Looking at the windows can you see if they are sat back from the suround and the name, if so then you have done the same. I wonder if this is a common theme with this type of kit or type of ship. Anyway I have just managed to glue it all into place so no going back now. I have also been looking at the rudder bearings and they don,t seem to be a very good fit and will probably need some adjustment. I am now finished for the day.Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Today I finished off the pieces of wood to mount the stern castle to the hull. I then fitted the hinges to the rudder and mounted the rudder to the hull. I found this very tricky indeed. The brass plates did not fit and had to be widened so as to fit the rudder and rudder post. I managed to do it but ended up gluing the pins to the bushes so as to hold it all together whilst pining the hinges. This therefore means that the rudder will be in a fixed position but found this the easiest way forward.It has taking me nearly all say to fit the rudder but got there in the end. Yesterday I completed the internal planking to the Bulwarks and fitted the upright stantions to internal Bulwarks

Edited January 20, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Your model is looking wonderful, Dave.

The finish looks clean, real  and uniform with no blemishes .  You are amazingly getting much done in a very short time. Just look back when you began and how little time has passed to bring you to where you are.  I am very impressed.  As I said before, you will end up with a high quality model ship to be proud of.  Many thanks for posting your work for all to see.

Best,

Jerry 

Edited January 20, 2021 by Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

Thanks again Jerry for your kind words. I still think the stern castle looks a bit odd,but perhaps it will look better when its all painted. Unfortunately I cannot see the colors from the photograph on the box the model came in,so will just have to go off the photos you have gave me and the Amati video. I see the back drop to the stern castle is black. I also quite like the colours on the Amati video which seems to be mainly black & white but with some areas a Yellow  ochre. Whwn I bought the model I also bought the paint kit as well so will see what colours are supplied.Take care jerry and thanks again for your input.

[DaveBaxt]

Jerry. I need your help regarding the belaying pin racks. Would you be so kind to let me know how many holes are in each rack. Not to worry if you cannot make them out properly .On the main drawing I have counted 15, 12 and 8 holes working from aft. When I checked the Amati video the guy has one less in each rack. It also states in the instructions that the racks are 1 mm x 5 mm. This is very small to get the 15  x 1.5 mm holes and there is very liitle space between the belaying pins. I am also having a problem with the 1 mm x 5 mm strips splitting whilst trying drilll holes so close together. I have resorted to using 1 mm plywood which has solved the problem but the plywood is much lighter than the walnut. However I do have some Walnut stain.Looking at the belaying pin drawing there are a few spare holes so do I need to drill the exact amount on the drawing. I made the holes 1.5mm as this allows the belaying pins to slide in quite easily but wondering if these need to be tight, in which case I could make the holes a bit smaller. 

Edited January 21, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Dave,

From aft to forward, I count 15,  7, 12.  You need to do a little research on these matters such as checking my log on the Bounty.  It clearly shows at the bottom of Page 3 of our Bounty log how many belaying pins are mounted.  However, as the rigging progressed some of the belaying pins were not used.  This is determined by the need of the rigging.  I'm sorry that you have had a problem with the rack material but it's obvious that you know what to do as you have correctly solved the problem.  Incidentally, I don't know where you got the n umber of belaying pins from as the information I just gave you is spot on.  Hope you had a nice dinner.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

32 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

From aft to forward, I count 15,  7, 12.  You need to do a little research on these matters such as checking my log on the Bounty.  It clearly shows at the bottom of Page 3 of our Bounty log how many belaying pins are mounted.  However, as the rigging progressed some of the belaying pins were not used.  This is determined by the need of the rigging.  I'm sorry that you have had a problem with the rack material but it's obvious that you know what to do as you have correctly solved the problem.  Incidentally, I don't know where you got the n umber of belaying pins from as the information I just gave you is spot on.  Hope you had a nice dinner.

Best,

Jerry

I have just checked and you are correct. 15,7 and 12 . Thats  what I meant to say.Its been a long day. So I will continue the way I am going. I have managed to also firtted the chains to the rudder and the little sheave holes in the bulwarks and fitted the bottom bulwark caps. Thanks for clearing that up for me. I can now proceed with a bit more confidence. Catch you later. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Jerry. I have decided to make new pin rack as I wasn,t happy with the once I made using the plywood. I used some walnut sock which I had spare and supported the piece whilst drilling and this stopped the wood splitting and also acted as a guide to get the holes more in a line. Here are a couple of photos of the 15 hole rack. 

              I have been looking at your blog to see how you managed to do the hinges as I can,t find any 1 cm wide metal strip in the kit to make the hinges. I can see that you have made something different and wondered if you used the same copper strip that is used in some of the yards. ( It looks to be about 4 mm wide or something like that) to make your hinges .

 

 

[Jerry]

Hello Dave,

If you have read our log on the Bounty, you will see that the admiral, Charlene also had a lot of trouble when trying to make the racks using the material suggested in the kit.  She too ended up using plywood and as you can see it worked out well.  The hinges were made using some copper stripping that was actually 5mm wide and came with the kit.  That's as far as I remember.  I asked Charlene and she wasn't sure either.

 

Before I forget, when I was building the HMS Victory,my second venture in ship model making,  (Cuttysark was  my first about 20 years ago) I received a lot of advice and help from another builder named Shipyard Sid.  His real name is also David.  You mentioned that you lived in the NE of Britain and so does Shipyard Sid. Just wondering  if you ever heard of him.  Checkout his logs some time.

 

Your work is progressing very well,

 

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

31 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave,

If you have read our log on the Bounty, you will see that the admiral, Charlene also had a lot of trouble when trying to make the racks using the material suggested in the kit.  She too ended up using plywood and as you can see it worked out well.  The hinges were made using some copper stripping that was actually 5mm wide and came with the kit.  That's as far as I remember.  I asked Charlene and she wasn't sure either.

 

Before I forget, when I was building the HMS Victory,my second venture in ship model making,  (Cuttysark was  my first about 20 years ago) I received a lot of advice and help from another builder named Shipyard Sid.  His real name is also David.  You mentioned that you lived in the NE of Britain and so does Shipyard Sid. Just wondering  if you ever heard of him.  Checkout his logs some time.

 

Your work is progressing very well,

 

Jerry

Jerry you are so quick with your replies and I am truely thankful for it. Yes I have been reading your blog and the photos show rhat charlene's pin racks are excellent . After 2 days of trying I have finally got them made but persevered with walnut but they are not as good as Charlene's. Even with the use of a guide I still managed to get one or two holes go astray. By the time I finished I was just about getting the hang of it. Here is a photo of the racks eventually glued in place. 

[Jerry]

Dave,

I tried to do some woodwork this morning but I'm afraid my body is still suffering from fatigue.  So here I am sitting in my favorite chair reading my email and up comes Dave with another missive.  So I looked at your pin racks and I have a suggestion for you in the future.  To make the racks with pin holes in a straight line what I do is draw a pencil line down the center of the rack from one end to the other.  Then I mark the location of each hole with a very sharp pencil.  Once I'm satisfied that the location of the center of every hole is correct I use an awl to make a small hole on the pencil mark.  This small hole  acts as a guide for the drill bit.  This usually results in a nice straight line of belaying pin holes.  I  hope this is helpful.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

31 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

I tried to do some woodwork this morning but I'm afraid my body is still suffering from fatigue.  So here I am sitting in my favorite chair reading my email and up comes Dave with another missive.  So I looked at your pin racks and I have a suggestion for you in the future.  To make the racks with pin holes in a straight line what I do is draw a pencil line down the center of the rack from one end to the other.  Then I mark the location of each hole with a very sharp pencil.  Once I'm satisfied that the location of the center of every hole is correct I use an awl to make a small hole on the pencil mark.  This small hole  acts as a guide for the drill bit.  This usually results in a nice straight line of belaying pin holes.  I  hope this is helpful.

Jerry

Jerry I am sure you are correct but it must be different for me as that is exactly what I did, I even put a wooden guide along the edge of the drill so it would not wonder about. However I always seemed to get one or two that strayed. I am not trying to make excuses but do suffer from arthritis but I did start to get the hang of it after several goes. After using the bradawl I did not always find it with the drill so perhaps I need some better drills? Anyway hope it doesn't look to bad once the pins are in and the ropes are attached. Just been working on the hinges which are really tiny and are impossible to see whithout a magnifying glass.Thanks again for your input. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

I am now taking stock of where I am with the build and what to do next. After looking at Jerry's blog of the Bounty and thinking before I go much further  its time to maybe paint the hull before I add too much more to the hull. However before that I need to add the channels  and the forward pin racks. For some reason the guy in the Amati video does not start painting the hull until he has glued on the pilot ladders and the metal attachments to the break water. Surely it would be easier to paint everything before attaching these items or does the glue hold better before painting ? Just a few things to think about before I start the day.