HMS Bounty by DaveBaxt - FINISHED - Amati - 1:60

[DaveBaxt]

Deck Furniture is almost complete and now thinking about the mast and rigging. When ever I have a few spare miniutes at the end of the day, instead of starting on something new I have been practicing different types of knots and then on to seizing a rope and also seizing a block to a spar or mast. I eventually made a break through and after following a number of videos eventually got the hang when using the larger of the thread sizes. However it did become more difficult as the thread sizes became smaller and the same colour. Also I found when using bees wax on the threadit became more difficult as the threads would stick together whilst seizing the thinner threads. I wonder if I am using the bees wax properly.

                   There are also a couple of things that are on my mind regarding the standing rigging.There are only 3 sizes of black thread available in the kit 1.3 mm ,1 mm and 0.75 mm. It is pretty clear on the drawings what thread is used for where except for the wooldings. I would have thought that would be for the largest of the three, However as the 1.3 is also used for the stays and looks to be a limited amount( just loose and not on a spool) I am now wondering whether to use the 1.0 mm. If anyone would like to make any comments on the above please feel free to do so.

              I will update shortly with photos once the deck fittings is complete. Thank you.

 

[DaveBaxt]

Deck fittings completed including the dead eyes. I wasn,t too happy  with the Brass wire for the chain plates but eventiually got the hang of getting a reasonable tight fit around the dead eyes . I also had to  cut and re shape them to try and keep the bottom of the chain plates in line. I measured the hieght of the masts from the drawing and attached string to the cross trees where the shrouds would go. I then used this string to get the correct angle of the chain  plates. Including the rake of the masts.  I don,t think I will use this kind of chain plate again. Here is a few photos of the completed deck fittings and dead eyes.

              Now for the easy part the masts and rigging Haha.

[Jerry]

Hello Dave.

 

My oh my, you are very aloof lately.  Checked your log and man your Bounty is looking marvelous.  You, my friend, are doing one hell of a great job.  Can't wait to see your rigging..

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

9 hours ago, Jerry said:

Hello Dave.

 

My oh my, you are very aloof lately.  Checked your log and man your Bounty is looking marvelous.  You, my friend, are doing one hell of a great job.  Can't wait to see your rigging..

Best,

Jerry

Thanks for that jerry you are too kind. I have spent the last few hours painting the figure head which came out ok  ( from a distance.I will upload a few photos and see what you think. I have also made a tool to help with serving the line. Not as fancy as yours which I tried to find hear in the uk but no luck. I have also started on the bowsprit and tried my hand at tapering the mast all of which is satisfactory. Now for the 3 mm blocks on the bow sprit and bow sprit yard, all 12 of them. 

                          The kit supplied a number of black threads. The instructions are saying  1.3 mm for the stays,1 mm for the shrouds and 0.75 mm for the back stays. Fortunately I have purchased 0.5 mm 0.25 mm and 0.15 mm which I was intending on using for attaching the blocks, serving and seizing.. I am intending on doing the standing rigging on the lower masts first , attaching all the blocks to the masts , working from forward to aft. Hopefully after following the guy in the Amati video and checking the drawing,when I eventually get to the running rigging all the blocks are in the correct place and I can get to them. Sounds like I have a plan in mind so here goes with the rigging. Once again Jerry I thank you for all your input.Best regards Dave

Edited February 26, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Made a start on the mast and completed adding the blocks to the bowsprit and bowsprit yard. Here is a couple of photos of the this work. I then moved onto the fore lower mast and the top mast. The  problem is that I think the drawings are incorrect due to not able to pass the top mast through the lower mast tresle trees . According to the drawing the top mast passes through the lower mast cheeks. However this is not possible due to the cross trees getting in the way. The reason for this is because the top piece with both square hole and round hole for the lower and top masts keeps these masts about 3 mm apart. According to the drawing this space between the masts does not exist. See the below photos

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I eventually solve this problem by removing the material from the bottom of the top mast , this allowed the top mast to lowere further between the lower mast cheeks and my next photos will show the lower fore mast completed and with the top mast in the correct position. I It was also necassary to remove some of the material form the mast cap so it the gap was equal through out the overlap of the two mast. Hope this makes sense. Best regards Dave

Edited March 1, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Hello dave,

For what it's worth I took a picture of the top section of the foremast on my Bounty and am posting it here.  It clearly shows a gap between the two mast sections so I agree that the Amati drawing is different than the actual build since there is a gap between the two holes.  I hope you don't mind the picture on  your blog.

Best,

Jerry

Edited March 1, 2021 by Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Jerry said:

Hello dave,

For what it's worth I took a picture of the top section of the foremast on my Bounty and am posting it here.  It clearly shows a gap between the two mast sections so I agree that the Amati drawing is different than the actual build since there is a gap between the two holes.  I hope you don't mind the picture on  your blog.

Best,

Jerry

 

3 hours ago, Jerry said:

Hello dave,

For what it's worth I took a picture of the top section of the foremast on my Bounty and am posting it here.  It clearly shows a gap between the two mast sections so I agree that the Amati drawing is different than the actual build since there is a gap between the two holes.  I hope you don't mind the picture on  your blog.

Best,

Jerry

Thanks for the photo Jerry. I am really glad that you uploaded that photo as it reinforces my thoughts that there is in fact a gap and now gives me more confidence to move forward with not just this mast but the others too. .It also give me a chance to look at those pieces of wood glued to the center of the yard . I also like the look of that serving. I seen a picture of your tool for serving on your blog of the Bounty. I have managed to source one on ebay but unfortunately it is made in China so have some doubts whether to bother or not. In the mean time I have made a tool to do it by hand and will see how I get on. Best regards Dave

 

Here is a better photo of the flat required so that the top mast fits with a clear gap in between the two mast at the overlap. The top mast can be pushed down between the cheeks fro this position.I also fitted a chock as per the drawing

Edited March 1, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

A couple of photos of the Bowsprit and yard. Not sure at what angle the bowsprit is supposed to be or even if there is any adjustment. There is a gap between the mast and the figure head but not sure if the mast sits on top of the figure head. At the moment the bowsprit is not secured in position. Also one of the photos shows the new walnut stand which I think is a big improvement.

[DaveBaxt]

Mast completed and temporarily fitted . Started fitting the stays to the bowsprit and to the forward mast including the preventer stays. I have to get one of those automatic serving machines as doing the forward atays is giving me a pain between the shoulder blades. Here is a photo done prior to starting the rigging. I have attempted to fit all the blocks I feel is needed prior to assembly of the masts. At the moment all the masts are not glued into position.

The colour of the lower mast are the ones on the front of the box and also what was supplied as the paint set for this particular model. Although probably not very authentic and possibly not to every ones taste but I kind of like the bright colours

Edited March 11, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Trond]

Hi Dave,
It is a fantastic ship you have built and looking forward for the rest. I've read through the log and it is very interesting since I've just brought forth my Bounty (after 25 years on the shelf) and going to finish it.
 

I see that your version is different than mine. Have you done many modifications to your model or is there just many different version of the Bounty?

[Gus M]

wow, looks great, congrats on your great work

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Trond said:

Hi Dave,
It is a fantastic ship you have built and looking forward for the rest. I've read through the log and it is very interesting since I've just brought forth my Bounty (after 25 years on the shelf) and going to finish it.
 

I see that your version is different than mine. Have you done many modifications to your model or is there just many different version of the Bounty?

Thank you for your very kind words. Only one mod I can think of which is the port & stbd rails where the forward pin racks are fitted. Mind as I have had lots problems understanding the drawings and the instructions are not very clear either I have started copying some of Jerry's and Tims blogs of the Bounty and there are quite a few differences in the rigging I have also been studying a few books such as Rigging period ship models by Lennarth Petersson. Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Gixli said:

wow, looks great, congrats on your great work

Thank you for your kind words

[DaveBaxt]

Ok I have now managed to serv a number of Stays by hand and its killing me. I generally have issues with back pain and serving the line is jsut adding to my problems. I have careful consideration and now I see that Chuck 's Servo O matic is now back on sale and postal issues due to the covid pandemic have now been resolved I have decided to by one. Whilst waiting for delivery I have changed tack and I will now make the yards and gaff. I have also been asking lots of questions about the colour of threads for standing rigging and have decided to go against what is in the instructions and go with the light brown inbetween the blocks on the standing rigging and stick with black between the hearts. Sorry no photos at present as having problems with uploading photos(  slow internet speed at my end) I am now wondering do I go with lighter gauge threads as I go higher up ( standing rigging ?)

 

[Trond]

On 1/15/2021 at 5:44 PM, Gregory said:

 

I use CA a lot.  Mostly anywhere it is not very small pieces.

 

I used it for planking with veneer on my current Resolution  kit project

 

I used to avoid it because I had trouble managing overflow at edges.  Then I learned to keep a swab and acetone close by, and have learned it's pretty easy to keep mistakes cleaned up.

Hi,

Haven't tried CA much, but does it not dry very fast when working with wood?

I see in your earlier post Dave that you even want it it to harden faster, but then you cant put much on, small pieces? 

I use wood glue for everything and that hardens fast (I think)..

[Gregory]

51 minutes ago, Trond said:

Haven't tried CA much, but does it not dry very fast when working with wood?

 There are various cure times depending on available moisture and the formula of the glue itself.  Often it can be instantaneous.

Acetone dissolves cured CA, and can be used to clean up unwanted residue, and when approached proberly, to break a cured bond.

Of course acetone will also dissolve most varnish and paint, so you may have to do some refinishing  if it ends up in spots you don't want.

[Trond]

Thanks Gregory,

 

I defiantly need to do some testing with CA to get hang of it.

[DaveBaxt]

7 hours ago, Trond said:

Hi,

Haven't tried CA much, but does it not dry very fast when working with wood?

I see in your earlier post Dave that you even want it it to harden faster, but then you cant put much on, small pieces? 

I use wood glue for everything and that hardens fast (I think)..

Trod I am no expert but it seems to me that it is an age old argument and you will get lots of different answers. I try to use it as little as possible but found it great for metal to wood. In some situations where timing is important I am now using an accelerator so once you get your piece held into position then Zap it with a bit of CA accelerator and your done. I try to use as little as possible and use those thin nozzles ( mainly to stop the end of the CA container blocking up) you can buy a 100 for a few pounds sterling on Amazon and just throw the end away after about a week. I do not use CA on the hull but many do. I have tried a few different ways but I think you just have to see whats best for you. This is only my second ship and find practice make perfect . I already made a better job of planking the second time around. I am currently using CA glue on my rigging knots but thinking of changing tack and trying pva glue on them instead of CA as the knots and siezings  are  brittle rather than just stiff with the bees wax. Hope this helps Dave

[DaveBaxt]

6 hours ago, Gregory said:

 There are various cure times depending on available moisture and the formula of the glue itself.  Often it can be instantaneous.

Acetone dissolves cured CA, and can be used to clean up unwanted residue, and when approached proberly, to break a cured bond.

Of course acetone will also dissolve most varnish and paint, so you may have to do some refinishing  if it ends up in spots you don't want.

Yes good point I decided after taking the advice on this board to keep a bottle of acetone on hand in an emergency. I have tried different set times and as you say, it takes a bit of practice. Once again thank you for your input

Edited March 16, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

[AJohnson]

Hi Dave,

 

Your Bounty is looking really good, mind if I pull up a chair and follow you?  I am building the Caldercraft Bounty; know there might be a few differences between manufacturers, but still a Bounty! but I am a bit behind you, just about finishing the hull.

[DaveBaxt]

On 3/16/2021 at 9:34 PM, AJohnson said:

Hi Dave,

 

Your Bounty is looking really good, mind if I pull up a chair and follow you?  I am building the Caldercraft Bounty; know there might be a few differences between manufacturers, but still a Bounty! but I am a bit behind you, just about finishing the hull.

Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind words. I hope you have better instructions with your Caldercraft kit.than with my Amati one.I  have heard that Caldrcraft are one of the better manufacturers out there although the Amati kit seemed to be pretty good stuff . Keep us posted and let us know how you get on. 

             I have now finished putting together my seiizing machine and I am now ready to continue with the rigging once I have completed the yards. Hopefully not too long now, although I found it difficult to attach the thin dowels which sit on top of the yards and make the yards wider. The copper strips were difficult to bend to the correct shape and make a neat job. Perhaps next time I should try and think about some kind of jig.

[Tim Moore]

1 hour ago, DaveBaxt said:

Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind words. I hope you have better instructions with your Caldercraft kit.than with my Amati one.I  have heard that Caldrcraft are one of the better manufacturers out there although the Amati kit seemed to be pretty good stuff . Keep us posted and let us know how you get on. 

             I have now finished putting together my seiizing machine and I am now ready to continue with the rigging once I have completed the yards. Hopefully not too long now, although I found it difficult to attach the thin dowels which sit on top of the yards and make the yards wider. The copper strips were difficult to bend to the correct shape and make a neat job. Perhaps next time I should try and think about some kind of jig.

Hi Dave - you may have seen this on my build log, but had same issue with mine - this is how I resolved it with sections of aluminium tube and wire. Blackened it all after install.

Your Bounty is coming along and looking very good!

Tim

[AJohnson]

1 hour ago, DaveBaxt said:

Welcome aboard and thank you for your kind words. I hope you have better instructions with your Caldercraft kit.than with my Amati one.I  have heard that Caldrcraft are one of the better manufacturers out there although the Amati kit seemed to be pretty good stuff . Keep us posted and let us know how you get on. 

Hi Dave, I have started a build log for my Bounty, so "shadowing" you, good luck with the masts and yards.  As for CC instructions they are a bit "sparse" to say the least, the plans are good though and nearly full size, so plenty of room for notes etc.  so think we have poor instructions in common, thank goodness for MSW and others build logs!  😁

[LyleK1]

So, I'll jump in here too...

I'm building the Artesania Latina version of the Bounty and like both of you, the instructions are pretty useless after the first few steps!

I use several build logs (most AL logs) as my help.

Between us, we should be able to get through most issues. Feel free to following along with mine as well. I know that each version is a bit different but the end game is the same!

Good luck and I'll be watching intently!

 

[DaveBaxt]

16 hours ago, Tim Moore said:

Hi Dave - you may have seen this on my build log, but had same issue with mine - this is how I resolved it with sections of aluminium tube and wire. Blackened it all after install.

Your Bounty is coming along and looking very good!

Tim

Cheers Tim that is definately something that I would look at in future builds. I don,t fancy making all those yards ggain. I wish now I had looked at your blog before continueing further. Just for the record Tim . How did you join the wire and tubing together and also what are you using to black the aluminium?  Thanks once again for your input. Best regards Dave

Edited March 20, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Tim Moore]

5 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

Cheers Tim that is definately something that I would look at in future builds. I don,t fancy making all those yards ggain. I wish now I had looked at your blog before continueing further. Just for the record Tim . How did you join the wire and tubing together and also what are you using to black the aluminium?  Thanks once again for your input. Best regards Dave

I used CA (thick superglue) to connect the pieces, and painted it all gunmetal after with a small brush. If the parts were all brass I would probably have used the brass blacking solution before assembly.

[DaveBaxt]

17 hours ago, Tim Moore said:

I used CA (thick superglue) to connect the pieces, and painted it all gunmetal after with a small brush. If the parts were all brass I would probably have used the brass blacking solution before assembly.

I would have thought the aluminium would be much easier to work with than brass but could be wrong. I have also noticed with my kit that a lot of the dowels are under sized quit a bit. Mainly on the smaller stuff, for example when the drawing says 4 mm the dowel is 3.5mm , Next time I will check the kit at the start and perhaps buy the next size up for that particular spar.

[Tim Moore]

5 hours ago, DaveBaxt said:

I would have thought the aluminium would be much easier to work with than brass but could be wrong. I have also noticed with my kit that a lot of the dowels are under sized quit a bit. Mainly on the smaller stuff, for example when the drawing says 4 mm the dowel is 3.5mm , Next time I will check the kit at the start and perhaps buy the next size up for that particular spar.

I used aluminium because the right sizes were available. it is also really easy to slice with a Dremel and file into decent rings, and drill holes into for the brass posts. 

[Ian_Grant]

On 3/13/2021 at 10:58 PM, DaveBaxt said:

Ok I have now managed to serve a number of Stays by hand and its killing me. I generally have issues with back pain and serving the line is just adding to my problems. I have careful consideration and now I see that Chuck 's Servo O matic is now back on sale and postal issues due to the covid pandemic have now been resolved I have decided to buy one........

 

Dave,

 

Love your model, she's looking really good!  Just thought I would show what I did about serving rope - made a serving machine from my old meccano which I have held onto for 50 years but my modern kids were never interested 😞.  Just needed to buy brass tubing of the correct "meccano diameter" for the hollow shaft. Works well albeit a bit creaky when cranking 🙂