HMS Bounty by DaveBaxt - FINISHED - Amati - 1:60

[Jerry]

Good morning, Dave.

Looks like you were up early this morning; that's good because a good dose of enthusiasm will get you going in the right direction.  If you use CA cement it won't matter if the hull is painted or not.  This glue will hold (use accelerator).  Since we copper clad the hull below the water line on our model and left a good portion above the water line natural, we didn't have much painting to do. However, I would choose to apply the external paraphernalia (such as ladder steps) before painting.   Hope you have a  nice weekend.

Best,

Jerry

Edited January 23, 2021 by Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

22 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Good morning, Dave.

Looks like you were up early this morning; that's good because a good dose of enthusiasm will get you going in the right direction.  If you use CA cement it won't matter if the hull is painted or not.  This glue will hold (use accelerator).  Since we copper clad the hull below the water line on our model and left a good portion above the water line natural, we didn't have much painting to do. However, I would choose to apply the external paraphernalia (such as ladder steps) before painting.   Hope you have a  nice weekend.

Best,

Jerry

Thanks for the heads up regarding the painting. AS I bought the painting kit for that particular model I will probably stick with those colours,, which I think is the same as on the front of the box. although I do like how Charlene has painted hers. Always a good idea to go with a womans touch.I always let my wife pick the colours for decorating.

          Anyway I managed to fit the forward rails and the other pin racks this morning and thats me done for the day. I usually watch football on a saturday afternoon,so I am having an easy day today. I will start on the ladders in the next couple of days before painting but first I will fit the channels which I understand the positioning is very important. So will make sure they are where they should be. The instructions also say that the channels should be fitted to the hull and not the wales ,Just wondering if I could use CA glue for that as it would make life a bit easier,especially now I have the accelerator? Hope you are now feeling well Jerry and in the moodeto continue answering my questions. Thanks again for your help. Best regards Dave.

[DaveBaxt]

I have not updated this blog for a few days due to encountering a few problems with fitting the stantions that the remaining pin racks are fitted to. I  must of glued the stantions quite a few times but was never 100% happy with there position. Then as I am planning to paint the hull, after filling in some gaps and sanding down smooth again ended up accidentily knocking  the stantions off. I then Eventually ended up using CA glue and getting them onto the correct position I then moved on to the channels. I then went on to take my measurments from the main drawing and using the position of the masts as a datum. So far so good. I removed the section of the wales so could then glue the channels onto the hull. So far so good. Unfortunately No . I then realized that one of the channels could not possibly be in the right place as I then realized that the shrouds would be over the holes for the cannons. ( Ar this point I am starting to get annoyed with myself) I then had remove the channels in question remove the old glue. Remove a section of the wale and fit a new section of wale. Then re position the channels so the gap in the the shrouds would be over the cannon hole. All in all I have had a very frustrating time and dare I say the first signs of doubt started to creep in.

I have decided next to spend my time removing any evidence of glue which ended up in several places I did not want them.

I have now realized that it is inevitable that I will make some mistakes as this is only my second model and my first of this type of ship. I made mistakes on my first ship  but did a better job of the planking on this my second ship. Anyway here is a few photos of my work so far. Please do not look too closely.

Hopefully I can proceed without too many errors.

[Jerry]

Good morning, Dave,

 

As you can probably see I haven't been able to sleep well last night so I'm up and at 'em quite early.  Lo and behold I find your posting first among my emails and actually was very happy to hear from you.  I think I read your post before you had a chance to attach your photos. Anyway, I was concerned about your silence the past couple of days but now I'm happy to see you are well and working.  As you know I have built a slew of ship models over the past several years and they're all on display in my home.  Now the first thing that people ask me when looking at them is usually, "Where did you get the patience to do this?"  And that's exactly what it takes...plenty of patience and that's what you are exhibiting as you glue, unglue, scrape, change, etc.  Let me assure you that you are doing an excellent job on your Bounty, probably as well as any I've seen, so just keep going along the way you are. And one other thing, maybe something you haven't even thought of...your postings are excellently detailed and will help the next person who decides to torture him or herself and build this ship model. 

Good to hear from you.

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Jerry said:

Good morning, Dave,

 

As you can probably see I haven't been able to sleep well last night so I'm up and at 'em quite early.  Lo and behold I find your posting first among my emails and actually was very happy to hear from you.  I think I read your post before you had a chance to attach your photos. Anyway, I was concerned about your silence the past couple of days but now I'm happy to see you are well and working.  As you know I have built a slew of ship models over the past several years and they're all on display in my home.  Now the first thing that people ask me when looking at them is usually, "Where did you get the patience to do this?"  And that's exactly what it takes...plenty of patience and that's what you are exhibiting as you glue, unglue, scrape, change, etc.  Let me assure you that you are doing an excellent job on your Bounty, probably as well as any I've seen, so just keep going along the way you are. And one other thing, maybe something you haven't even thought of...your postings are excellently detailed and will help the next person who decides to torture him or herself and build this ship model. 

Good to hear from you.

Best,

Jerry

Jerry thank you again for your kind words of support and its help me a lot. I have had a bit more success today and have managed to put right some of my mistakes. Unfortunately I am have a few problems getting my photos on line. Not being an expert at IT I am taking the photos with my phone  in my workshop and sending them via email to myself ( I know it sounds a bit weird but it did work for a while) I then open my email with my lap top and upload them to the website. For some reason I am not receiving the emails on my laptop. 

                    Anyway I have just finished giving everything a final coat of sand & sealer then after a very light sand I am pretty mush ready to paint. I understand as I have used sand & sealer I do not need to use an undercoat but go straight onto the top coat using the acrylic paint supplied with the kit. 

The only thing which I have not glued to the hull so far are the metal pieces which fit onto the cut water and the brass parts which go onto the stern castle. I believe these areas need painting black and the the parts attached afterwards. 

So now I will try and sort out those photographs. Best regards Dave

PS. You are definately turning into my Mentor Jerry so thank you very much indeed! Here is one of the photos after corrective surgery prior to painting

Edited January 26, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Final coat of sand n Seal then masked where I didn't want any stray paint going.Firstcoat of white acrylic paint followed by another 2 coats,all very thin coats. Marked off waterline after securing the ship in a level position and longitudinal and athwartships . Commenced applying first coat of black to stern castle,cut-water, channels and in between wales. Shame to cover up all that hard work on the planking.Ha ha. 

[Jerry]

Hello, Dave...

and thanks for the update.  Mentor?  You flatter me.  There's nothing that I can add at this time that will add anything positive to what you are doing. You're obviously getting close to the rigging phase for which I am looking forward to.  Everything I see looks excellent.  You better start thinking of a display case as your model will bring you much accolades. Have a good evening.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

Hello, Dave...

and thanks for the update.  Mentor?  You flatter me.  There's nothing that I can add at this time that will add anything positive to what you are doing. You're obviously getting close to the rigging phase for which I am looking forward to.  Everything I see looks excellent.  You better start thinking of a display case as your model will bring you much accolades. Have a good evening.

Jerry

Thank you again Jerry. I too am looking forward to the rigging and hopefully I can manage ok with those very small blocks,eye bolts and rings. In my spare time when I am not working on my model I have been famiiarising my self with some of the rigging and trying to figure out what goes where. I have managed to identify each mast and there associated tackle and have a bag for each mast. ( mainly the standing rigging) Perhaps when we get nearer the time, I could lay out the contents of one of the bags and send you a photo of the contents. That way you would be able to let me know if anything is missing. What do you think of this approach? The fact that you have stayed with me throughout my ships blog has been very helpful and your encouragement has kept me going when I have wobbled a bit. Take care Jerry and I will give you another update probably tomorrow.Best regards Dave.

[DaveBaxt]

11 hours ago, Jerry said:

Hello, Dave...

and thanks for the update.  Mentor?  You flatter me.  There's nothing that I can add at this time that will add anything positive to what you are doing. You're obviously getting close to the rigging phase for which I am looking forward to.  Everything I see looks excellent.  You better start thinking of a display case as your model will bring you much accolades. Have a good evening.

Jerry

Jerry I know I am probably looking too far ahead but regarding the display case. I am assuming this is something we put together ourselves  in which case is it toughened glass and what sort of dimensions? I have just found a display case maker here in the uk and as a rough guide lets say $300 depending upon the exchange rate. Thats not inexpensive. Can we make these ourselves with a cheaper material such as plastic?

Edited January 28, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Good morning, Dave.

Once again I didn't sleep too well last night so I'm awake fairly early and immediately found your post.  Ah yes, display cases...Yes indeed, they are definitely not cheap.  There are several ways one can go in this area and glass and wood framing is one.  My friend, Lawrence Dalrymple made his display case for Victory with glass and wood.  To do this can be fairly simple especially if one purchases a display case kit of which several are available.  Four of my models are sitting in plastic cases, all of which I had custom made by a local plastic specialty shop.  They are definitely not cheap but in my opinion make the best way to show one's work.  I gave the shop the dimensions and they did the rest.  I like plastic cases because they offer viewing of your model with little, if any, obstruction.  The type of plastic I used is Acrylic sometimes called Plexiglas.  The case should be made of 1/4  inch thick material.  When you get ready for this step in your construction I will go over details as there are other things to think about, such as breather holes, etc.  My display case for HMS Victory (see page 30 of my Victory) is huge and very specially made.  It cost. at that time, well over $1000.  Most display cases are one piece and put in place by carefully placing it over the model.  It  is impossible to do that with Victory as most would find the room's ceiling to low to raise the case over the model.  So I designed this case with a removable panel.  The case was placed on its table, the ship was put inside and the panel added and closed.  Again check page 30 of my Victory log.  Plastic is not cheap.

Talk to you soon,

Best,

Jerry

 

[DaveBaxt]

2 hours ago, Jerry said:

Good morning, Dave.

Once again I didn't sleep too well last night so I'm awake fairly early and immediately found your post.  Ah yes, display cases...Yes indeed, they are definitely not cheap.  There are several ways one can go in this area and glass and wood framing is one.  My friend, Lawrence Dalrymple made his display case for Victory with glass and wood.  To do this can be fairly simple especially if one purchases a display case kit of which several are available.  Four of my models are sitting in plastic cases, all of which I had custom made by a local plastic specialty shop.  They are definitely not cheap but in my opinion make the best way to show one's work.  I gave the shop the dimensions and they did the rest.  I like plastic cases because they offer viewing of your model with little, if any, obstruction.  The type of plastic I used is Acrylic sometimes called Plexiglas.  The case should be made of 1/4  inch thick material.  When you get ready for this step in your construction I will go over details as there are other things to think about, such as breather holes, etc.  My display case for HMS Victory (see page 30 of my Victory) is huge and very specially made.  It cost. at that time, well over $1000.  Most display cases are one piece and put in place by carefully placing it over the model.  It  is impossible to do that with Victory as most would find the room's ceiling to low to raise the case over the model.  So I designed this case with a removable panel.  The case was placed on its table, the ship was put inside and the panel added and closed.  Again check page 30 of my Victory log.  Plastic is not cheap.

Talk to you soon,

Best,

Jerry

 

Sorry to hear your struggling with sleep.It is always difficult when that happens. Anyway thank you for your advice regarding the display cases. I have found a company in the uk and makes exactly what you have discribed for maybe $300 . So will probably go down that route if the model turns out good enough. I am still making silly mistakes which are very frustrating.

                         Here is a few photos of the painting of the hull. I tried to paint the side castles and then scrape the paint off the high ridges but was not totally happy with the outcome . Fortunately I can have another go at a later date if I feel like it.

[Jerry]

It

Spoiler

Nice, Dave... Amazing how different finishes individualize the model.  Your Bounty has a completely different look than mine so we have Dave's Bounty and Jerry's  (and Charlene's)  Not much more to say at this time.  been working in the shop starting to assemble a chair and table that we have been making for about three weeks.  We're in the home stretch now.  take care and keep up your good work.

Best,

Jerry 

 

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

It

  Hide contents

Nice, Dave... Amazing how different finishes individualize the model.  Your Bounty has a completely different look than mine so we have Dave's Bounty and Jerry's  (and Charlene's)  Not much more to say at this time.  been working in the shop starting to assemble a chair and table that we have been making for about three weeks.  We're in the home stretch now.  take care and keep up your good work.

Best,

Jerry 

 

I have been looking at the next part of the build and see it is the rudder and wheel mechanism with really small blocks (2mm) According to the instructions the wheel drum which  the ropes are wrapped around is part no107 and is shown on fig 59. As I can,t find this in the kit I am assuming it will have to be made. It is basically a drum ( a 5mm diameter pin ) with a smaller diameter pin on either side (3 mm ). I am wondering if you can remember making this Jerry ? and if so how.? I have thought about using two different size dowel and drilling the larger one at both ends 3 mm and fitting the smaller dowel into the holes. Another way would e to just use 5 mm diameter dowel and file both end down to 3 mm whilst being rotated in a drill. I will take a look at your blog and see if there is anything on there. 

                   I think the colours I chose for the Bounty are the same as is on the box and probably nowhere near what is accurate, they may not be to every ones taste either but I quite like them. I think on my next model perhaps I will research the colours before buying paint.I still have one or two areas to touch up which I can see. There is also the lower masts to paint white and some of the yards are black too. It does look very striking but sometimes think it is a shame to cover up that lovely walnut.Best regards Dave

 

 

 

[Jerry]

Dave,

Please check page 4 of our build for pictures of the rudder and wheel rigging..  I don't recall having to make any of the parts for this assembly.  I do believe everything was in the kit.  From all the missing parts you have experienced I would complain bitterly to the party who sold you the kit.  Kit bashing is a common practice but it seems you have an unfair amount of  missing items.  In the past, when I purchased a kit (Cutty Sark)  with a lot of missing stuff I demanded compensation and was given an in store credit which i quickly used up, I may add.  Keep a stiff upper lip 'cause you're doing very well.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

9 hours ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

Please check page 4 of our build for pictures of the rudder and wheel rigging..  I don't recall having to make any of the parts for this assembly.  I do believe everything was in the kit.  From all the missing parts you have experienced I would complain bitterly to the party who sold you the kit.  Kit bashing is a common practice but it seems you have an unfair amount of  missing items.  In the past, when I purchased a kit (Cutty Sark)  with a lot of missing stuff I demanded compensation and was given an in store credit which i quickly used up, I may add.  Keep a stiff upper lip 'cause you're doing very well.

Jerry

Thank you Jerry for confirming what I was starting to suspect. Strange  how everything in the box was in sealed plastic bags except for the ships wheel which was on its own and not in a bag. Anyway what I have learned whilst my life at sea was we never carried enough spares and it was always the thing that broke ,there was never a spare for it. So we just had to make it. Fortunately I have some spare 5 mm Walnut dowel and I have a few ideas on how to make it. Also I need to get some practice in with seizing those blocks for the steering mechanism. Just for the record .Do the crew always face aft when steering the ship and in a position where there is very little room between the mast and the steering. Be in no doubt this is probably factually correct but it is the first time I have come across this in a ship without duel controls ( where they have both Fwd and Aft facing controls which are used for manuovering the vessel in port) Sorry but I just found this very strange.

Regarding those really tiny 2 mm blocks which I believe are the smallest in the kit . I think I will struggle to work with something so small. However I will give it a go and will let you know how I get on. Best regards Dave

 

[Jerry]

D

Spoiler

Hey Dave,

Since you are about to have your first experience (at least with Bounty) tying a block, just a quick word as to how I have always done it successfully.  I make the first half of a square knot  (a loop you might say) with the thread and then slowly close it around the block that sits flat on the table (bench).  Then I complete the square knot by tying the second loop.   Then I put a dab of CA on the knot.  I would say that 90% of the time this method has worked for me.  Hope you can picture what I mean.  Wishing you a meaningful day.

Best,

Jerry

 

[DaveBaxt]

1 hour ago, Jerry said:

D

  Hide contents

Hey Dave,

Since you are about to have your first experience (at least with Bounty) tying a block, just a quick word as to how I have always done it successfully.  I make the first half of a square knot  (a loop you might say) with the thread and then slowly close it around the block that sits flat on the table (bench).  Then I complete the square knot by tying the second loop.   Then I put a dab of CA on the knot.  I would say that 90% of the time this method has worked for me.  Hope you can picture what I mean.  Wishing you a meaningful day.

Best,

Jerry

 

Yes Jerry I am at that stage now that I have completed the littie hut and the tiller arm. I have been looking at this video but looks way more complecated  than your method sounds

 

assuming I am following what you are saying. By a square knot do you mean left over right and then under. ie the first part of a reef knot if so I get your drift otherwise I am lost. For the record I think I can follow what the guy in the video is doing. but instead of attaching the block to a mast it would be to a ring and then an eye bolt.I am just thinking  out aloud here Jerry so put me right if I go astray.

Here is a photo of the drum I had to make to fit the wheel. I must remember to check everything in the box when I first receive my next model.

                  Jerry please take a look at the drawing I have posted of the steering mechanism, specifically blocks 112 A and E seems there isan extra connection (ring  part 266) I assume this is where the two ends of the rope is attached to the rings. How is this ring attached to the block?

 

Edited January 29, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[Jerry]

Dave,

I will be busy for awhile in my shop.  The video you posted has nothing to do with what I was writing about.  I will try and sketch something next time to illustrate my method of merely tying a line (thread) around a block if you don't get what I mean this time..  It's really very simple once you understand what I'm talking about.  To begin with , yes, a square knot is a reef knot.  Lay the block flat on the bench.  Make the first loop of the reef (square) knot and slip it around the block.  Slowly pull the ends of the thread to close the loop around the grooves in the block.  Tie the second loop to complete the knot and put a dab of CA cement on the knot.  The ends of the thread should be long enough to attach the block to whatever you need to.  Hope you get this.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

3 hours ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

I will be busy for awhile in my shop.  The video you posted has nothing to do with what I was writing about.  I will try and sketch something next time to illustrate my method of merely tying a line (thread) around a block if you don't get what I mean this time..  It's really very simple once you understand what I'm talking about.  To begin with , yes, a square knot is a reef knot.  Lay the block flat on the bench.  Make the first loop of the reef (square) knot and slip it around the block.  Slowly pull the ends of the thread to close the loop around the grooves in the block.  Tie the second loop to complete the knot and put a dab of CA cement on the knot.  The ends of the thread should be long enough to attach the block to whatever you need to.  Hope you get this.

Jerry

Thanks for that explanation Jerry and now I know what you are getting at and I have managed to fit a couple of blocks to rings and then attach these to the tiller via very small eye bolts. I think the hardest part for me was attaching the eye bolts to the rings.They are so small. I have attached a photo of my work so far .The little cabin over the tiller is not attached yet as there is still some work to do on this yet. 

I am still stuck on how to proceed with the blocks A and E where I believe is where each end of the main steering rope is attached via a ring 266. Can this be done like the guy in the video by substituting the mast for ring 266 or is there another easier way. I appreciate your patience with me and it must be frustrating for you tying to explain something thats so obvious to you. So I must thank you once again. Best regards Dave 

 

 

[Jerry]

Dave,

You're probably fast asleep when this arrives but a quick question, have you checked my log, page 4?  My posti may answer your latest question.

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

8 hours ago, Jerry said:

Dave,

You're probably fast asleep when this arrives but a quick question, have you checked my log, page 4?  My posti may answer your latest question.

Jerry

Yes Jerry I was looking at them early tonight , but even though they are fantastic photo swith excellent quality photos ( Great photographer by the way) I just can,t make them out 100% .However I can see that the main running rope (lanyard ?) looks to be going back to the where the block is secured to the deck possibly the ring. However the instructions do say there is another ring in there.

Here is the Amati video where the guy uses an electric wire to form a extra loop on two of the blocks but not sure if this is a bit complicated for what it is. Take a look if you have the time Jerry at about 5 mins in.

 

 

Perhaps I am getting to hung up on whats happening as either of these solutions would work so will just go with what I think is the best and splice the main rope to a larger ring and connect that ring to the smaller ring. which is secured to the deck Thanks again Jerry  this is getting me in knots, please forgive the pun. Best regards Dave

Edited January 30, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Update on the steering mechanism. Well after several attempts at drilling the 2 mm blocks a 1 mm hole which is the size on the instructions, I decided to make the holes smaller and hence make the running rope smaller. I also lost quite a few 3 mm rings but lucky I have a few spares. I got very frustrated trying different ways to do this including fitting larger rings and splicing the ends by seizing but just ended up tying the ends to the larger ring using a reef knot and a drop of glue. I eventually got the hang of tying the blocks but still found difficult handling the very small rings and eye bolts. I do believe I have these small blocks to look forward to again when building the cannons.Here is a couple of photos of my progress. I found this the most difficult part of the build so far. It is far from perfect but it is the best I can do

[Jerry]

Trust me, Dave, you're doing very well.  The photos don't lie.  Your progress is admirably at a fast pace and your model looks great.  No one is going to fixate on your model's steering system, believe me.  And if one does, you show much to be proud about.  I'm looking forward to your next steps so keep going...Model ship building is fun, isn't it?

Best,

Jerry

[DaveBaxt]

29 minutes ago, Jerry said:

Trust me, Dave, you're doing very well.  The photos don't lie.  Your progress is admirably at a fast pace and your model looks great.  No one is going to fixate on your model's steering system, believe me.  And if one does, you show much to be proud about.  I'm looking forward to your next steps so keep going...Model ship building is fun, isn't it?

Best,

Jerry

I am hooked jerry .I  really can't put it down. Next thing up is the hatch comings and gratings. I intend to soak the assembled grating strips into a mixture of water and PVA glue  for a few miniutes but not sure what the ratio is?  60 water 40 glue maybe  Also after I remove them I need to lay them on something so they don,t stick to the surface.Maybe tin foil but not sure if that would work. Whats your take on it Jerry?Once again Jerry thank you for your encouragement.Best regards Dave

[DaveBaxt]

Made up a few of the hatch cover using a mixture of glue and water brushed onto the assembled strips. I thought it would now be a good idea to move onto the cannons before the decks get too cluttered with other things like the capstan and bilge pumps. It has taken me all day to get the cannon barrels to fit into the carrages low enough so they would fit through the gun ports.Here is the job complete ready for attaching those ropes and tiny blocks, All 32 of them. Hate to think what it would be like doing the Victory Jerry especially if they are all 2 mm. I can,t make my mind up whether or not to paint the cannons or the carrages or to leave them alone. I quite like the look of the cannons as they are but do wonder how realistic they look.

Edited February 2, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

After much deliberation on whether to paint the cannons or not,in the end I decided to paint them. Also I have been reading  the art of weathering the wood work but as yet I don't have any such kit  so decided to try doing it by painting first using metal primer and then yellow orcre for the gun carrage and iron black for the cannons. I also used a brown similar to raw sienna for weathering. I also added a few touches of copper to the cannon badge or crest what ever it is called. I am not sure if this is in anyway authentic or even better than if I had left them int there origonal state. Here is the end product. 

                I have now done about 50% of the blocks and have run out of them. I did not realise how many I ruined when trying to drill them or being satisfied . I also did about 4 with light thread and then decided I wanted the siezings to be dark. Fortunately I antisapated this and have some on order and hopefully will get them soon. In the mean time I can continue with the hatch comings and covers so will not be idle.

[DaveBaxt]

After 3 days working on the blocks and rigging for the Cannon  I can actually see the light on at the end of the tunnel. All the work is completed off the ship and now ready to attach the ropes to the bulwarks. As the instructions say the attachment is actually on the bulwark and not the stantions .I think I will make pad eyes instead of eye bolts as I don,t want to accidently drill through the planking I will add another 1 mm so a total thickness of 3 mm before going through the otherside. I will cut the eye bolts to 2mm  which should be long enough to be secure.I could just use the stantions next to the Cannons but this will give me very  little room for the blocks. here is the work so far. Just for the record I wasted lots of blocks and tried several times to seize the ends onto the rings using black thread before I eventually got the hang of it but it has served me well so should make a better job of the larger blocks on the rigging. Any thought or comments would be welcome.

 

[DaveBaxt]

Including painting and correcting lots of mistakes and also left quite a few I have eventually completed the fitting and rigging of the cannons. Altogether it has probably taken me almost a week to completed. Today I have also moved onto the bilge pumps and capstan. I have also started blackening some of the brass work before fitting to try and make it a bit more realistic. 

Photos to follow.

Edited February 10, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Continued with deck fittings forward including the ratchet mechanism on the windlass and the windlass itself. All in all a very enjoyable part of the build especially after rigging the Cannons. After checking the diameter of the masts were what they should be it was necessary to remove material from the glands at the bottom where the mast go through the deck .Sorry I do not know what the name of this is. I am pretty much ready now for the Anchor rope from the forcastle to the hold. I also tried painting the windlass drum and give it a weathered look.

Edited February 11, 2021 by DaveBaxt

[DaveBaxt]

Several attempts at pin racks in the centre, The kit says 1 mm x 5 mm walnut but I kept splitting the wood when drilling . Eventually tried 1 mm ply and got away with that for the single pin rack as you can see in the photo. Unfortunately I did not have enough for the square pin rack that fits around the forward mast so have used 1.5 mm x 6 mm and used overlapping joints as in "Ship Modelling simplified" by Mastini.