Simulating tarred flannel in joints

[WalrusGuy]

I've been reading the TFFM Vol 1 and read that the tarred flannel in joints can be simulated using a thin black paper/tissue paper. Are there any advantages with simulating it this way vs shading with a 2B pencil?

Edited January 29, 2021 by WalrusGuy

[Bob Cleek]

None that I can see. The practice of bedding faying surfaces with cloth and bedding compound leaves nothing to see but a very narrow seam the color of the bedding compound, if that. Unless a model were built to an unusually large scale, such a seam would be invisible at scale-viewing distances. Some modelers like to highlight their joints by the use of pencil lead, paint, or a sliver of black paper when building unpainted models. Pencil lead is quite sufficient. Paper is more time-consuming and, in my opinion, no more effective than other methods. Additionally, paper between the faying surfaces results in a weaker joint. (Paper between glued joints is a common way to create a temporary joint which can later be easily broken apart.) A careful study of "masterpiece" models in respected museum collections, close-up color photographs of many of which are now available online and in books, will assist a modeler in determining which details they might consider incorporating in their model truly contribute to a compelling impression of reality in miniature and which are inaccurate stylistic conventions which are popular from time to time with the modeling fraternity. 

Edited January 30, 2021 by Bob Cleek

[druxey]

Personal preference is the guide here. I agree with Bob that paper in joints weakens them, unless one pegs or treenails the joints as well. Try different techniques on scrap and see what you prefer.

[WalrusGuy]

1 hour ago, Bob Cleek said:

None that I can see. The practice of bedding faying surfaces with cloth and bedding compound leaves nothing to see but a very narrow seam the color of the bedding compound, if that. Unless a model were built to an unusually large scale, such a seam would be invisible at scale-viewing distances. Some modelers like to highlight their joints by the use of pencil lead, paint, or a sliver of black paper when building unpainted models. Pencil lead is quite sufficient. Paper is more time-consuming and, in my opinion, no more effective than other methods. Additionally, paper between the faying surfaces results in a weaker joint. (Paper between glued joints is a common way to create a temporary joint which can later be easily broken apart.) A careful study of "masterpiece" models in respected museum collections, close-up color photographs of many of which are now available online and in books, will assist a modeler in determining which details they might consider incorporating in their model truly contribute to a compelling impression of reality in miniature and which are inaccurate stylistic conventions which are popular from time to time with the modeling fraternity. 

 

37 minutes ago, druxey said:

Personal preference is the guide here. I agree with Bob that paper in joints weakens them, unless one pegs or treenails the joints as well. Try different techniques on scrap and see what you prefer.

Thank you, Bob and Druxey!

[allanyed]

Try a test piece joint for this to see if you like it.  My preferred method is that I mix a small drop of black acrylic paint with PVA carpenters' glue, just enough to make it dark grey or black, but not enough to negate the purpose of the glue itself.  It leaves a distinct black seam and does not weaken the joint.   If any has seeped out it can be scraped and then sanded. 

 

Black tissue like that found in craft stores is very thin but shows the line well and is porous enough that the glue penetrates and does not significantly weaken the joint in my experience.

 

Allan