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New York 1839 by Robby The Brobot - Scale 1:64 - Wm. H Webb packet ship - first scratch build


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Hello, I am attempting a scratch build here. However I'm not sure how far I'll make it in the build, but it's been fun so far getting things together. 
Some members here have helped me get started with finding plans which lead me to getting "The search for speed under sail" by Howard I. Chapelle. Which has provided the plans I am starting this log with. 20210202_225553.thumb.jpg.e21bf63b41f3cfd0c14aacee63d72af2.jpg

It was difficult trying to get scans from the book until with reluctance I cut the plans pages out of the book. And afterward spent some time using gimp and freeCAD trying to trace lines and eventually just stuck with gimp, which I found easier. I don't really have any experience with using CAD specific software. Using the measuring tools in gimp I got the plans close to 1:64 in scale, and comparing the printed pages with a tape measure it seems they are close enough. 20210202_225328.thumb.jpg.77831f34b3674afa3b05429db999cfa8.jpg20210202_180830.thumb.jpg.65a7b184ebf41862c1709867fb5a19bb.jpgAnd then I traced the hull lines using tracing paper which didn't turn out very good lol, but it might be close enough that some sanding and pre-cutting guess work can help.20210202_230807.thumb.jpg.dd2cf4527c9643968ce5b599e932c139.jpg

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Robby,

 

If this is to work, buy a plastic French Curve sold at any store that sells office, artist, or drafting supplies. You might also find one at stores like Wall Mart or Target.  Naval Architects use special ships curves often called Copenhagen Curves.  These are expensive but a more common French Curve should cost less than a cup of coffee.

 

Instead of trying to trace these body plan sections freehand use your straightedge and the French Curve..

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31 minutes ago, Roger Pellett said:

Robby,

 

If this is to work, buy a plastic French Curve sold at any store that sells office, artist, or drafting supplies. You might also find one at stores like Wall Mart or Target.  Naval Architects use special ships curves often called Copenhagen Curves.  These are expensive but a more common French Curve should cost less than a cup of coffee.

 

Instead of trying to trace these body plan sections freehand use your straightedge and the French Curve..

Thanks Roger that's good advice. I had thought about maybe doing a trace onto wood, then cut, trace, cut, etc. from the printout paper to get all the hull lines onto the wood. Frankly my tracing paper lines are a bit embarrassing haha. But I didn't know about the French curve, although I've probably seen one before, thanks!

I did also do some tracing in gimp in layers but it would take a lot of pages to get every hull line, and not sure how much ink it would take from my dad's printer. 

 And there is still stuff I don't know about ship building. Like I was wondering about the lines having a curve at the top and last night I learned about something called "camber" which is an intentional curve to the deck for water to drain off, which makes sense, but something I didn't know about.

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Edited by Robby The Brobot
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3 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Robby,

 

yes, decks are cambered but if you are referring to the body plan that you posted the horizontal curved line at the top is not deck camber.  It is the projection of the bow of the ship which rises as it approaches the stem.

ok, thanks. So when doing those top lines should it be level across then? without the curve? for making the ribs or bulkheads.

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I was wondering if someone could help me with understanding keel width. At the bottom of the keel its scaled to be around 1/4" but then the line drawing shows it getting skinnier. I presume the curve from the bottom where it meets the planks represents the rabbet, but the rabbet is just a notch right? So shouldnt the keel be 1/4" the whole way up with the exception of the rabbet?

 

Edit: oh I just remembered about the NRG pdf on understanding ship drawings for modeling, I'll take a look at that.

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Edited by Robby The Brobot
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This may be a little late, but instead of tracing out the lines. Take the page you tore out. Scan it to your computer; open the paint app; open the file that has the scan; paint lets you flip the picture 180 degrees; save that. Now print out half as many copies as you have station lines of each file. Take each copy and slice down the middle and match it up with its corresponding copy. Now you have the station lines for each bulkhead at each station. No tracing!

Tom

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