What is CA glue and how does it work?

[palmerit]

I bought some Bob Smith before, but I don't think I got a medium one. Is this the right one?

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/insta-cure-gap-filling-1oz/BSI00000107/product.php?kw=bob,smith

 

I'm gathering from what I read above that the Super-BSI Gold+ medium gap filling is similar but odorless:

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/super-gold-1oz-medium-gap-filling/BSI00000127/product.php?kw=bob,smith

 

 

[Chuck]

that is the stuff...should work fine.  its about the technique...use a very small amount...rubb it off with your fingers to avoid shiny dark stain immediately. Just practice.  But one package of sing and double blocks and some poly rope and spend a half day just practicing stropping using different techniques until you get better at it. Whether its a faux splice or like the way I prefer as shown in my titorial.  Or even other methods.   But it really just takes practice and persistance.

 

Chuck

[palmerit]

59 minutes ago, Chuck said:

use a very small amount...rubb it off with your fingers to avoid shiny dark stain immediately

Do you just keep a bowl of acetone and a rag nearby?

[Gregory]

I use this little 2oz bottle and Q-Tips.   I put it on the Q-Tip and not the work piece..

Any open container would evaporate quickly.

Edited 11 hours ago by Gregory

[JohnOz]

Another solution to CA stains.

I assembled some ships boats kits using CA,  and noted the CA stains.  I am a total newbie. This was my first wooden model ship build.   (USS Constitution- Mamoli, but the ships boats were purchased separately from AliExpress.)

In my ignorance, I decided that the solution to the CA stains was to paint the entire small boats with CA, using a paint brush, loading it in a puddle of CA, and brushing very quickly.  The brush lasted about 2 minutes before it was unusable, and had to be discarded, so yes, I brushed very quickly.  One brush per boat.  On 6 boats I used 6 brushes.  (cheap Chinese brushes, about $AUD1 each).

I was very satisfied with the result.  See photos.  These are all "after" images.  The finish looked a bit like a satin varnish, and was reasonably homogenous.  Even better, the small boats felt really solid and rigid.  I accidentally dropped one on the hard floor, and it bounced, with no sign of any damage.

So, that will be my method of making and finishing small ships boats from now on, where I want to retain the unpainted wood look.

 

Edited 10 hours ago by JohnOz
extra photo to illustrate point

[Chuck]

54 minutes ago, palmerit said:

Do you just keep a bowl of acetone and a rag nearby?

Not really no....but that is a good practice.  BUT I just use my finger to wipe away the excess.  Keep in mind that I must stress that I use such small amounts....less than a drop really.  There is never enough to use acetone on.  I am talking about rigging of course.  If you have a need to use acetone then my guess is you are using way too much CA.   I mean just the tiny tip of a tooth pick is barely dipped into a few drops of CA squeezed out onto a scrap piece of wood.   The tip of the toothpick is literally just a little wet with CA.   Thats it.   You dont need a lot of holding power as the ropes are not under extreme stress at all...that is unless you are one of those folks who tighten their rigging up like a drum, that it is so taught and with a lot of tension.   There is just no need to do that and it isnt really good for you model.   You shouldnt put your models under any stress because of rigging lines.

 

Just tight enough that the ropes are about to sag on the verge of sagging...and the best possible result would be to leave a little sag in some lines because that looks so much more natural and life like.

 

This is literally how much I use …and place it on a knot or faux splice.  Excuse my 2 year old glue blob palette ..I just used my I - phone to take this video so I dont know if you guys can see it or play it.  Maybe you can if you use your phone to look at it.

 

 

 

[dvm27]

11 hours ago, Chuck said:

Here is a faux splice like Greg mentioned using medium CA....Not clunky and not shiny or stained.  It takes about 40 seconds if you prefer using a faux splice like this.

I stand corrected Chuck. That's as neat a splice as I can make with cotton rope and PVA. Do you fray or tease the end at all before gluing?

 

One other CA glue advantage in rigging is the speed at which you can work. A dilute PVA splice takes about 15 minutes before I'm comfortable applying pressure to it. A CA splice can be used immediately. But one advantage to a PVC knot or splice is that it can be dissolved in a bit of alcohol and the end of the rope can be reused. This is convenient if, for example, a lanyard has to be tensioned later on. I suspect a CA splice is forever?

Edited 4 hours ago by dvm27