Re: airbrush moisture trap

[rtropp]

I bought a medium strength airbrush from Model Expo and am about to use it.  I have heard about "moisture traps".  I am unfamiliar with these and Model Expo is going through changes and cannot answer my question.  I had hoped someone on this forum might know.

How important is a moisture trap?  What kind / type /brand should I use with a 1/6 hp compressor with internal tank?  And, where would be the best place to get one?

 

That is... if it is really necessary.  I will be spraying acrylic thinned with a brand name acrylic thinner.

 

Much thanks,

Richard

[kurtvd19]

Richard:

You most certainly need a moisture trap with any air brush set up.  However, you might have one built into the air pressure regulator already.  If the regulator has a clear plastic bottom with a knurled knob or other type of drain cock to open the drain you have a moisture trap.  If your regulator is not so equipped and in-line moisture trap can be placed in-line into the air hose.  They usually just require you to cut the hose and insert the moisture trap being careful to properly orient the moisture trap with the air flow - there should be an arrow pointing the direction of the air flow or "in" and "out" molded into the ends of the trap. 

 

Keep an eye on the moisture trap - in-line or part of the regulator - as accumulated moisture needs to be drained out.  The regulator trap is emptied by opening the bottom drain cock.  The in-line unit is detached from the hose and emptied.

 

Failure to have a moisture trap will cause problems eventually as compressing air always results in moisture being produced inside the compressor system and when it gets into the airflow while you are spraying paint you will not be happy even using acrylics. 

 

If you need to buy an in-line trap most places that sell air brushes also sell the in-line traps.  All of the manufacturers sell them so they are readily available.

 

Kurt

 

Full disclosure - I am a consultant to Badger Air Brush Co.

[rtropp]

Kurt,

Thank you for the help. I appreciate your expertise.

I am away from my workshop at the moment, but will check it tomorrow morning.

Richard

[WackoWolf]

Model Expo does sell one, I got it on the last sale that they had. Check them out and see what they are charging for it, shouldn't be that much. But you might want to check places like Harborfrieght and Michaels and also Hobby Lobby this why you won't have to pay shipping.

[rtropp]

Kurt,

 

the compressor/airbrush set includes a filter.  It attaches between the compressor and the air hose. It has a small rod that is supposed to be depressed to empty the filter.  I think this is a moisture trap, just called something else in the instructions.

What do you think?

Richard

 

Edited July 11, 2013 by rtropp

[kurtvd19]

Richard:

Yep, that's their moisture trap.  Just keep an eye on it and if/when you see water in it depress the rod and let it empty out.  I have a regulator moisture trap as well as in-line traps on all of my hoses.  Have never had a drop of water in the in-line units as it's all been trapped in the regulator's trap.  Only reason for the in-line traps on my hoses is that I use them for demonstrations for Badger away from my shop and don't always provide my own compressor.  Redundancy is not needed.

Take care,

Kurt

[normanh]

Take care even when using a trap as they soon fill up and allow the water transfer to the air brush depending on the length of time the compressor runs and the actual room humidity (actually related to the dew point).

 

 

Norman

Edited July 11, 2013 by normanh

[JPett]

Ahoy Richard

 

I could also recommend that after using your compressor you should open the "petcock" on the bottom of the tank and leave it open until your next use. This will prevent moisture from collecting in the tank. I usually run mine for about 30 seconds when I open it and then again before I close it.

 

Good luck with the airbrushing. It can be a lot of fun.

 

Full Disclosure: Just some geek who has used a compressor "a lot"

Edited July 12, 2013 by JPett

[rtropp]

Thank you all for your help. 

My plan is to give airbrushing its first trial this weekend if the rain holds off (almost constant cloudy and rain in Georgia lately).  I will start off working outside on my patio to see what goes on.  I will use a cardboard box as a jury rigged spray box but no exhaust... yet.  My workshop is in my sunroom and the windows are not configured to allow venting easily so I figured better off testing outside until I understand what the "mess" factor might be.

Between the advice you have all given, and some videos on YouTube, I should be able to muddle through the learning curve. I will post here as I have questions.  Have a great weekend and, again, thank you all.

Richard

[kurtvd19]

Richard:

You said you were going to be using acrylics - this is good for the "mess" situation.  Acrylics have virtually no odor and the spray is harmless to you (unless you look into the front end and get a face full - like a loaded gun).  As to the mess, the over spray is not an issue like it is for solvent based paints, as the over spray is dry before it gets to anything other than your intended target - the model.  A drop cloth on the floor will catch any of the over spray as dust - take it outside and shake it off.  Clean up is done.

 

When airbrushing outside the air movement may blow the paint away from the model so try to do it in an area where you are sheltered from the breeze.

 

Good luck.

Kurt

[rtropp]

Kurt,

I am using a branded acrylic paint thinner.  Will the overspray still be harmless?

If so, we just finished having part of our home painted and I have plastic sheets available.

Richard

[rtropp]

J,

The compressor I have has a built in tank. I am not sure there is a petcock but will be sure to check.

Richard

[kurtvd19]

Richard:

Not knowing the exact ingredients in the thinner, I can't say for sure.  Badger paints don't need to be thinned to spray but if they thicken (maybe the jar lid was left off overnight or something causing evaporation) then distilled water is used as thinner making them essentially harmless as the over spray dries so quickly that one doesn't have much exposure to inhaling the stuff.  I used to use Floquil paints and can remember the results of blowing my nose after a painting session - not pretty - made me go out and get a good respirator.  They used some pretty nasty stuff in the paint and the thinner.

 

Read the contents of the thinner and let that be your guide.  If it's essentially water or alcohol I don't see a problem but if it contains stuff that's at all dangerous take precautions.

 

With acrylics being pretty much benign - I have been told by a chemist that you might get an upset stomach if you drank the acrylic paint, but it wouldn't do any harm - I would feel very safe with a cheap drug store or home store face mask (3M makes them as well as others).  I retired my respirator completely when I switched to the acrylics and don't even use a filter mask now.  I have a spray booth but usually only use the light and keep the exhaust fan shut off as it can affect the paint spray when not spraying directly into the unit to get the sides of the object being painted.

 

Kurt

[rtropp]

Kurt,

The acrylics are the paints sold by Model Expo for their models. The thinner's vehicle is Acrylic polymer emulsion. Would I be better off using distilled water?

Richard

[kurtvd19]

Richard:

I would follow their directions as it's always best to keep things simple.  If that's the thinner they recommend I would stick with it or at least do a test thinning with the thinner and also with water and compare results.

 

If they do not specify the thinning agent go ahead and try water and do a test on a similar surface to your intended model finish.  Let it dry well and then check for adherence.  If it's OK then go ahead and thin with water and consider it safe to use indoors w/o a lot of precautions.

 

Kurt

[rtropp]

Well, I finally had a chance to test out the equipment. I started by thinning some acrylic tube paint that I already had. I didn't want to waste any of the model specific paint while learning how to use the hardware. I thinned the paint way too much. After watching a YouTube with Ken Schlotfeldt, I learned a great deal but, come on on now... thin it like two percent milk??? I went through half a quart. Didn't even have any cookies!!

So, being an analyst by vocation, I realized I did not have a baseline to work from. I have ordered Badger Air-Opaque Airbrush Ready Water Based Acrylic Paint, Primary, from Amazon. I figured this would allow me develop the baseline with which to compare other combinations. They should be here tomorrow.

Richard

[kurtvd19]

Richard:

I would have suggested you try the Badger Acrylic Modelflex Marine Paints rather than the Air-Opaque paints - as the marine paints come in the colors you will probably wind up using on boats/ships.  But you have the idea - get proficient with one paint and then you can switch to another having figured out what happens when you change ratios or settings.

The nice thing about the Marine paints is that no thinning is needed.  Shake and spray.

Let us know how things go.

Kurt

[rtropp]

Already ordered the opaque so will give them a whirl. The opaque ones are supposed to be thinned for air brush already. Will the user experience be similar for both or are the marine colors different in use? Right now Color is not as important as practice.

Richard

[rtropp]

Received the badger, airbrush paints and it made things a lot easier. Now I know what it should look like. Next I need to learn to control the brush. It still feels awkward. I went online and found a site that had downloadable training guides, first dots, then lines, then circles, etc. They have been helpful in getting used to the double action, although I admit I am still pretty ham fisted. I suspect I will go through most of this batch of paint just practicing.

I have to admit, as a retiree who would not mind something that would provide extra income, there seem to be a number of uses that could work. But, that would be a conversation on a different site.

Thank you for getting me off to a good start.

Richard