Swift by 3sheets10 - Artesania Latina - first build

[3sheets10]

Shaping and putting in the pesky plank from the garboard.

 

This was tough. I had a lot of trial and error here, but I got something that I think will work. It is not as aesthetically pleasing as I would have hoped, but I think it will do the trick.  Some paper towel got stuck on the plank as I was trying to set in place. It will come off as I sand it down....i hope.

[3sheets10]

A plank a day keeps the project underway. 

[shawn32671]

You are making nice progress.

[themadchemist]

I personally think the plank adjacent to the garboard is one of the hardest to lay, especially at the stem end. I remember having to force a lateral bend in them to get a good fit at the keel. The garboard could have had a tab longer (less rounded) shape. Its hard to guess that until trying to fit that next plank and as its second planked it won't show.

 

Looks like you have a perfect twist on the garboard, meaning they are edge to edge at the stem and twist nicely to sit flat against the false keel in back. Don't forget that part will have to be thinned to the thickness of the keel before fitting the keel. You will also need to start tapering the plank fore and aft otherwise the stem will fill and you'll have to drop planks. Of course that again is up to how picky you want to be. I did the 1st planking as though it was going to show, that way it gave me the practice. That experience taught me the I don't think I'll ever double plank again.

 

Keep on Planking, Your doing a fantastic job!

[3sheets10]

Thank you TMC! It is shaping up nicely I believe. Everyone's advice has certainly helped. 

[3sheets10]

Working towards finishing the first planking process. Doing some work over here! 

[shawn32671]

Great progress, looking very nice 3sheets..

[Sailor1234567890]

I was at the hobby shop here the other day. I saw two boxes with swift in them. Same scale, same text, same pictures. Different sized boxes though. Same scale as well. Not sure why one was significantly bigger than the other box. Looking good so far. Keep it up. 

[3sheets10]

And I have reached the end of the first planking. What an experience! I certainly learned a lot! You may be able to tell that the bow was the area of most difficulty for me. I had to learn shape the end of the plank so that the same plank on the port and starboard side will meet at an angle. Towards the end, I got the hang of it. I had to put the planks on and then shape them right before I glued them to the bow. I would cut of small bits of the plank and then offer it to the spot it will be glued to see if it would fit. I also had a hard time with spacing at the bow. I found that as I was putting the planks in place, the shape of the bow would pull the plank down from the edge of the plank it will be placed next to. I think that stems from my shaping job of the bow blocks and frame long before I started planking. I had to shape the planks and put balsa wood under them to get it to sit in the right spot and not dip too low from the plank next to it. Overall, I think that was the right choice. It came out better than if I would have let them sit like they wanted to. 

 

I had to put one plank that did not fit like the others. I account that as a result of the mis-measurements I made throughout the planking process.

 

Now I am going to sand the hull and start work on the bulwarks. I am still working on my sanding skills, so any advice about sanding the hull is certainly appreciated. 

[shawn32671]

You're making very good head way...keep up the great work.

[themadchemist]

I personally like scrapers as much as sand paper for shaping the hull. They make several curved shaped scrapers that work very well. I love my shmoo (ogee) shaped scraper for concave shaping. 

 

You can also CA glue sand paper to a larger (> 5/8"ish) dowel and used it as a curved sanding block, which works great for the stern lower hull

 

FYI, the scraper came from Lee Valley and I saw that they have free shipping until Jan 6

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=32639&cat=1,310,41069&ap=1

 

I think the issues your having with the lay of the planking not wanting to sit where you put it is typical. Remember your forcing a flat, straight plank into a curved 3d shape which it won't like. I found wetting and clamping and letting dry, sometime 3 or 4 times per plank will slowly shape the plank. Once its shaped then comes the narrowing and beveling of edges so the planks lay nicely together.

Your plank will look something like this before gluing

 

 

My swift required a lot of narrowing at the stem and stern to get full strakes from stem to transom. Where you premarked the frames with the planking fan should be your guide as to the amount of narrowing required on each particular plank.

 

One thing for sure planking is something that you develop with practice and experience. That's why the double planking is helpful while learning. I would say of all the skills required in planking the most important skill is PATIENCE or at least thats what I've found.

 

You have a nice foundation in place 3sheets10, I think you'll be amazing at the transformation that sanding/scraping will have on the overall hull shape. I you don't have scrapers yet you can always use single edge razor blades for this. 

 

Enjoy the shaping process. To me its one of the most satisfying parts of laying the hull.

Congrats on finishing the next step. She coming along quite nicely.

[Moonbug]

Great work. I love this kit - a great opportunity to try new techniques and add as much or as little as you like.

 

- Bug

[3sheets10]

@Shawn: Thanks Shawn! These holiday breaks with nothing to do leads to a lot of building!

 

@TMC: Thank you! You are exactly right, the hull shaping process is very satisfying. You can finally see all your work on in the planking process paying off. It is great seeing the clean curves of the hull.

 

@Bug: I appreciate that. I agree with you, this kit is very fun to work on. I certainly need these opportunities to learn how to work with this material. It has been a good learning opportunity for me. I am still working on what I want to add. That is the exciting part. 

 

I spent sometime sanding the hull with a fine grade sanding pad and I added some pictures of how it turned out. I am not completely finished sanding, but I think it is getting close. I also filled in some of the empty spots at the bow. I believe it looks a little better. 

Edited January 5, 2014 by 3sheets10

[shawn32671]

Are you kidding? It looks awesome...you're really coming along well.

[themadchemist]

Looking good 3S10. Don't forget to narrow the stern along the keel.

 

I flattened the bottom by sanding it flat with a piece of paper taped on the desk and just running the keel line back and forth until a flat keel junction can be made. Then taped the keel in place and drew lines down either side to see where material needs removed. I think its easier to place the stem and keel before second planking. Remember also to thin the keel section of the hull about 0.5mm smaller then the actual keel to make spacing for the 2nd planking.

 

I also found running a #10 blade along the hull/keel line after keel gluing helped form/scrape a rabbet for the 2nd planking to sit in and give a nice clean and smooth transition. Hopefully the stem fits the hull shape and doesn't require a lot of shaping, but again I kind of enjoy the shaping part.

 

Now's when it really gets fun as you start to see her take shape. Wait until you add the bulwarks, that really adds a lot to her and really shows off her sheer line. I don't know if I mentioned this before, but CaptHarv advised me on replacing the bulwarks with solid basswood sheeting rather then the kit plywood. You can get a 3" x 2' piece at hobby lobby or some hobby place for a bout $3 in whatever thickness needed and I found it was a good upgrade as the plywood and water for shaping wasn't a great combo. I've also found the lighter the colour of basswood the better it shapes.

 

I'm enjoying watching your build, its like reliving the beginnings of my build. At the rate your going though, you may beat me done.

[Moonbug]

My advice with sanding is - patience patience patience. :-) And don't give in to the temptation if using rougher sandpaper to go faster. The second layer is so thin that you really need to make sure you have what you want with the first layer because you won't be able to sand the second layer very much.

 

When I think I'm done sanding, that's when I sand a little bit more with 600 or 1000. :-)

 

- Bug

[3sheets10]

Haha I have that mentality too Bug. I know if I get too carried away with it, I will find myself burning a hole through the hull. Once a day I run some sand paper over it and inspect it. I am interested to see first-hand how this second layer responds to any blemishes in the first layer. I do not want to risk it.

 

After taking the advice you, TMC offered (thank you sir), I inspected the bulwarks from the kit to find that one was actually coming apart, so I located a basswood sheet and made my own. It was a task getting those to closely match the original piece. I also flattened the area where the keel will sit and marked up how much material to remove. The only thing that I am struggling with is where to start the thinning of the stern planks to match the keel. I have demonstrated in a picture below what I am questioning. Do I want to start thinning at 1, 2, or 3. I know you have to match the stern piece as well? I am just not sure how far up to start. It might be an obvious answer, but I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row before I start taking materiel off of the hull.

[shawn32671]

Looking good.

[Moonbug]

I wish I had better advice, but I had a very difficult time matching the hull to the keel. What I ended up doing was notching out the hull and thinning out the keel. That wasn't a correct answer though, more of a compromise fix at the time.

 

I would just recommended dry fitting it and trying to line it up as cleanly as possibly. You probably won't start thinning until area two. Just remember you can always take away easier than filling.

 

Bug

[themadchemist]

This is what I was trying to explain in post #75. It's hard to put into words...

 

You want the hull where it is in contact with the keel flat. By flat I mean perpendicular to the keel. For example, at the stem you have curvature in the vertical axis but the hull/keel contact patch is flat at 90 degrees off the keels vertical. Hope this makes sense.

You also want this flat surface on the hull the width of the keel, actually minus 0.5mm per side is best as to form the rabbet in which the second planking can fit.

I achieved this by taping a full sheet of 100 grit paper to a flat table and by running the hull, while holding it level, back and forth you sand flat to width. Now at the stern you don't need to remove anything as its already too wide. To sand the stem/hull junction into the hull I used the same method by rolling the stem from where it meets the keel to its top across the sandpaper. making sure to keep the boat perpendicular level. This was slow tedious sanding.

 

See post #403 to 408/9 for pictures of what I'm trying to explain.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-al-150-the-dock-side-of-the-moon-pink-floyd-custom-build/page-27

 

Once the flat patch is wide enough the full length of the keel and stem I marked the keel edges with with a pencil onto the hulls flat patch. This gave me how much material Had to be removed, which I think is your question. I found you dont know this until the junction is flatted to accept the keel/stem. You can see I scarf jointed and put it all on as one piece, that is the keel and stem.

 

For the removal of the excess (outside the lines) I used scrapers. The shmoo/ogee scraper at the stem and forward portion and the flat ones back at the skeg/stern. Like you stated on sanding, just keep shaping and fitting the keel until it looks right. If you dont have scrapers, the single flat razor blades work well for the flats. For the concave curvature up front I'd use a 5/8"ish dowel with 100 grit paper glued to get that garboard strake curvature into the keel, It goes from vertical at the stern to horizontal at he stem which forms that curvature in the twist section. For the heavy removal 100 grit is fine then when you reach the keel line switch progress to lighter grits as the shape develops.

 

The inner stem curvature probably wont fit the hull shape exactly and once you have the flat pad for it to ride you can fit the inner keel by filing out the stem until its snug. The best way to figure out the hull curvature is with a pin contour gauge. and then transfer that to the stem inner curve.

 

Post 443 shows the pin contour gauge being used to make the stern post

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-al-150-the-dock-side-of-the-moon-pink-floyd-custom-build/page-30

 

My stem/keel glue up is at post #471 if your interested.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/997-swift-by-themadchemist-al-150-the-dock-side-of-the-moon-pink-floyd-custom-build/page-32

 

I cut my own cherry stem and keel as I saw the mahogany stem fit poorly and I also planned on adding a figurehead. I deviate from the swift plans early on and my log is a mess of chatter but I tried to illustrate some of the methods I've learned and developed while bashing my Swift into something completely not a pilot boat. Surprisingly my study of pilot boats has caused me to want to build another without the customized direction.

 

Here some reading for you if interested 

Its Pilots: Pilot schooners of North America and Great Britain by Cunliffe. The google version isn't complete but there's enough of it there. Its on my list of book purchases in the future.

http://books.google.com/books?id=VNsGi3nmuaQC&pg=PA37&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=4#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

One last thing, I placed the bulwarks first before the stem as it will also need flattening on the portion where the stem sits, just under the bowsprit hole. You also asked how important is the first planking evenness to the quality of the second. I'd say it is Everything. The 2nd can only ever be as good as its foundation. One reason there is so much chatter in my build log is that I was stalling until I had her exactly as i wanted before 2nd planking.

Heed Bug's advise, but not just with sanding. Patience is the key to everything. Bug is spot on about resisting switching sandpaper once the 2nd planking's on. I'd not use more then 220 on it as its so thin. and 1000 gives it a really nice polish 

 

Also know, everything I pass to you was given to me by another generous MSW member, Its all about helping each other here

The Spice Must Flow!

Edited January 7, 2014 by themadchemist

[themadchemist]

One other thing. Your last pictures have not show the deck. If you haven't planked the decking do it before adding the bulwarks. The trimming and sanding is easier this way, this is kind of obvious. The more important thing  and less obvious is the planking of the inner bulwarks. I planked after fitting them, I think the instructions say otherwise. I think that the planking on the inners would make shaping the bulwarks tougher. I'm not totally sure on the Swift instructions but I've seen other plank and have issues. As far as the instruction go though, seriously .... I can't remember when I last used them.

 

You will be glad you switched the bulwarks to solid sheet. It shapes so nicely. Capt Harv said their club built the swift and figured that one out. He's had several good tips, as have many others around here.

[Moonbug]

I'll echo what Keith said about the instructions. Sometimes I refer back to them to make sure there isn't some little cleat or something that I've missed, but for the most part research, MSW and other builds here end up being my instructions.  

 

I also ended up cutting a new rudder and stern post.  Oh - and to echo Keith (again) - planking the inside of the bulwarks after they are fitted does make a huge difference.

 

- Bug

[NenadM]

Punic Wars is a collective name for the three wars that were conducted between ancient Rome and Carthage in the second half of the third st century. e. and at the beginning of the second half of the 2 st century. e. They are called "Punic Wars" because the Romans called Carthage "Puns" (points), which is a form derived from the "Phoenicians" because Carthage emerged as a Phoenician colony

 

So, inspired by this story, and passing your( and mine) torture and racking with planking, I call this scene " Hull wars". As times go on, I see this name is so adequate .... with question : will I ever get out of planking ? And sanding ? And puttying ?

 

Keep on good work

 

Nenad

 

I agree : A spice must flow ( quote from DUNE )

[3sheets10]

Great advice guys, thank you very much! I really have no idea where I would be without the advice offered by everyone on my page and who have done this before. Let the spice flow!

 

@TMC: Your modifications to the Swift are outstanding. I appreciate your creativity and the way you work through developing these changes. 

@Bug: I am with you! I only refer to the instructions to make sure I am following the build in a somewhat chronological order, but mostly just read build logs. 

@Nenad M: Fight the good fight my friend. It is a tough process, but I agree with TMC, it is really satisfying when you start seeing the lines of the hull clean up and you get that smooth feel. It is really impressive. 

 

I have been slowly working through the things you all have been talking about. I think I am getting to a point where I can pull everything together. 

 

-I have been sanding the excess material form the hull for the keel fitting. I think I am where I want to be with that. I basically took some sand paper to the hull and sanded away the excess until I passed the lines I drew. It took awhile but I am glad I did it this way so I did not remove more than I should have. 

 

-I am working on getting the stem to fit the bow.....this is tough. I am not sure if this was the best way to do it, but to me it was the only way with the tool and skills I have at this moment, but I sanded the bow flat so the stem could lay flat. I am close, but there are a couple spots that are keeping it from sitting flat. The area that worries me the most is the spot where the top of the bow and the stem do not touch.  What do you guys think would be the best way to remedy this? 

 

-Lastly, I am getting ready to fit the bulwarks. I am shaping them at this moment. 

 

And to answer your question TMC, I have planked the deck. I put a gloss on it to protect it. I am just hoping it will not make it difficult to work on the deck when it comes time. 

 

[Moonbug]

My Swift was also pretty far off where the bow met the keel. I sanded down the stem and created a 'notch' for the keel to fit in between the hull planking. Not necessarily the right way to go but it worked for me.

 

-Bug

[3sheets10]

I have now fit the bulwarks on. I am really happy with the shape throughout the boat. After splitting a bulwark trying to get the shape right and having to cut another one, I made it a my mission to get that right. The only thing that did not turn out the way I would have wanted is the straightness of the bow. During my effort to shape the bow so it would fit right, I think I took too much out on the starboard side and was forced to bring the port side a little over to cover the gap. I do not think this will be an issue seeing as I will be covering it up with the keel and the bow spirit. 

 

To fit the bulwarks, I used CA glue and help it in place until it dried. To secure the bow, I used medical tape and strapped it across the bow to pull the two bulwarks together. 

 

[Moonbug]

Good work on a very difficult part of the build.

 

- Bug

[themadchemist]

Nice job on the bulwarks.

On fitting the stem I wouldn't remove material from the hull, but rather the stem. I'd use a pencil to mark where the stem touches the bow, then sand that part down, refit, remark, resand........ until it fits flush. Its a slow process, but for me that's one of the enjoyable parts. As an analytical chemist I tend to prefer the tedious stuff that drives others mad. Plus I'm already mad, so that helps.

 

On the upper bow, where the curvature deviates from the stem.... How does the stem lay on the bulwarks? As the bulwarks flair out, it should match the stem better. This will leave a bit of a gap at the top planking. One idea is to shape and glue a second plank over the first and sand it to shape and thickness at the stem. As it wraps back around the bow toward the stern taper it to flush with the hull so there is a smooth transition. I've seen other builders that had a low plank and used this method to fill in. You could use filler as it will be double planked also and it won't show. I just personally prefer using wood.

To be honest I had no issues with this step as when I saw how badly the OEM stem fit on my kit, that was when I decided to cut my own keel/stem as I saw it was going to be quite a job fitting the kit piece. If it makes you feel any better, my kit stem fit WAY worse then yours.

Also once the bulwarks are dry I sanded the peak flat so the stem laid flush with it.

 

It looks like you have the keel line on the hull shaped down to the correct thickness. Also the newer kit has the scuppers precut which saves that problem/issue. Adding the bulwarks really shows off the sheer line of the Swift. I too love the shape of these little boats sheer.

 

She's looking good 3S10, keep up the great build.

[themadchemist]

HA

I just realized that with switching the bulwarks for solid wood, you had to cut them scuppers yourself. D'OH. 

Nice job!   

 

Oh, how about a picture of the stem up against the bow now with the bulwarks in place. I looked as close as possible on your second pic above (post #86) and the transition from top plank to bulwarks at the stem looks to be fairly smooth.

[3sheets10]

Thank you Gentlemen! 

 

I have not messed with the stem or the keel in awhile in an effort to get some other things done on the main deck. I planked the bulwarks and glued the combs and the stern step in place . I also planked the upper stern. Then it was the first take on fitting the upper stern. I was certain it was even when I glued it on and as soon as I moved my rubber bands and fingers out of the way, it was the slightest bit uneven and I could not stop staring at it at every angle. I tried removing it, but it did not come without damage. I repaired the broken areas and tried again. Take 2 was a better result so I went with it. 

 

I am about to attach the stringers, but I do not know what to do with them. I am still up in the air with that. Aesthetic decisions are getting more difficult as the build goes on.