Flying Fish by Rick310 - Model Shipways - 1/96

Keith Black · March 27

1 hour ago, Rick310 said:

Keith, is the blackening solution you use called Birchwood Casey Blue?

Rick

No, it's Birchwood Casey Brass Black. Birchwood Casey Blue is for a blue finish.

Rick310 · March 27

Got it!

Thanks Keith!

Rick310 · 2025-04-23T00:43:40Z

Started rigging the mizzen mast. I decided to use .025 diameter line from Syren. This is a bit undersized for the shrouds but I plan to serve the line, which will bring the served portion to approximately the correct diameter.

The thread I am using to serve is approximately .004 inch diameter from Bluejacket. I will also use this thread for the rat lines. This is a bit too large but anything smaller I fear will be too difficult to work with.

Several years ago I purchased a serving machine from Syren, forgetting that 3 decades ago I purchased one from Model Shipways(?). It ended up fortuitous as the one from Syren works great for the shrouds and the other one works well for serving the 28 gauge brass wire sheer poles. Serving extends from the futtock shrouds to the upper deadeyes on the first ( forward) shroud.

The shrouds were served and parceled per EdT and the Young America.

Serving the shrouds was not difficult and actually enjoyable as long as I gave it my full attention. The parceling was silk span and painted black with acrylic paint.

I made a jig to hold the upper deadeyes, again, as described by EdT. This seemed to work well until I went to lace the deadeyes and the last 2 were too long. All three seizings had already been tied and when I tried to cut them to adjust the length between the upper and lower deadeyes, I damaged the last 2 shrouds on the port side and had to replace them. I recalled from Nic at Bluejacket that to shorten the length, the shrouds can be twisted to shorten, or untwisted to lengthen This is what I did on the other shrouds. The downside is that the upper deadeyes want to untwist and getting them to face forward with the sheer pole was difficult and challenging. The result of s not as good as I would have liked but I’m going with it.

One difficulty was deciding how long to make the short end of the shroud. No where could I find any reference for the length, so I arbitrarily went with 12/32 inch or 3 scale feet. All seizing were placed using a needle which worked well.

Again, not as good as I had hoped with the results but hopefully they won’t be that noticeable and I will get better moving forward.

Sheer poles were added at the junction with the futtock shrouds and at the top of the upper deadeyes. This was the only one I served. Later, I will add the staves of 28 gauge brass wire. Not sure if rigid staves are appropriate for 1851, but they will help hold the shrouds in place when I tie on the rat lines.

Starting with the mizzen mast was a huge advantage when I placed the mizzen stay!

After careful measuring and serving, the forward end of the stay was past through the bullseye and seized back on itself. This was done on the bench. The fairlead that attaches to the main mast was previously slipped on. The bullseye was then glued into place, the main mast inserted, and the fairlead glued to the main mast. The other end was taken through the lubber’s hole, around the mast head, and seized to itself where the serving meets. This seizing came out much better. Silk span was wrapped around the serving at the mast head and painted brown to simulate leather.

Additionally, the mizzen spencer’s throat halyards was rigged while it was still accessible. I left it loose for now.

Finally, I made the in haul/out hauls for both the main and fore spencer booms. These were attached together with bowline knots and threaded through the blocks at the Spencer gooseneck.

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