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Are there any tutorials or advice on how to make bulkhead extentions...?


Go to solution Solved by Chuck Seiler,

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Posted

I have had the Model Expo U.S.S. Constitution on a building board for the past decade..Since building the keel and attaching the bulkhead the model just sat..After two moves and changing several dry-docks for the Connie. she has had several of the extensions broken off...I have contacted Model Expo about purchasing the parts for a new keel ect. and bulkheads but so far they have not yet responded...(Its only been a day)..Any suggestions on rebuilding them..?  Thanks..

 

Barry

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Gregory said:

I would  give ModelExpo more than a day..  

 

  They can have as much time as they want, I wasn't complaining about MpdelExpo..I was asking about repairing the extensions..

Edited by Captain Vader
Posted

This is far out of my bailiwick,  but perhaps if you supplied a bit more information?

I may be wrong, but I think Model Expo is a retail sales agent and not a kit manufacturer.

One their site, I see three versions of Constitution, all POB, but from three mfg.

Billings

Mamoli

ModelShipways

 

Contact with the actual kit mfg may better serve your needs.

 

Mamoli was a family operation that had a fire, and the expiration of the individual who was the engine?  All of the rights and intellectual parts were sold to a larger company = ?

Given the time and the nature of the original Mamoli product, the current version may be "a bit" improved.

 

What do you mean by extension? 

 

After 10 years of hanging in space without extensive internal supports, things may be bent, curved, warped, racked. 

Going back to step one may  give you a better final product.

 

Most of the plans that come with POB kits have full size patterns of both the central spine and each of the molds.

It would be an easily accessible process to have 1:1 copies made of these patterns,  purchase quality plywood - even thicker than the kit supplied parts - and use a hand fretsaw and then rasp, file, sanding block to free the parts from the plywood sheet.

 

A little study of information here and double or triple the number of molds constructed to provide a more adequate base for planking.

I looked at the PDF of the Billings plans - the number of molds that they provide is not really adequate.  From what I have seen of the old Mamoli - the number of molds is likely no more adequate.   My experience with ModelShipways shows them to be a quality shop that strives to supply much more than the bare minimum.   But even there, POB is what it is.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

  • Solution
Posted
38 minutes ago, Jaager said:

I may be wrong, but I think Model Expo is a retail sales agent and not a kit manufacturer.

    Model Expo does, in fact, manufacture their own line of kits.  It sounds like Barry's kit is one of them.

 

    Without knowing the full extent of the breakage, I need to 'wing it'.  This is dealing with the broken extensions only.

 

    If you still have them, just glue them back on.  I would recommend drilling a small hole in both pieces and inserting a pin.  I prefer bamboo sanded to size using a dremel.

bulkhead.jpg.23fa2f182cf16912d1b4fcb97942906c.jpg

 

    The other problem is ensuring the piece is correct.  Make a template of the bulkhead and use it to ensure the extension is aligned.

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

Posted
1 hour ago, Chuck Seiler said:

    Model Expo does, in fact, manufacture their own line of kits.  It sounds like Barry's kit is one of them.

 

    Without knowing the full extent of the breakage, I need to 'wing it'.  This is dealing with the broken extensions only.

 

    If you still have them, just glue them back on.  I would recommend drilling a small hole in both pieces and inserting a pin.  I prefer bamboo sanded to size using a dremel.

bulkhead.jpg.23fa2f182cf16912d1b4fcb97942906c.jpg

 

    The other problem is ensuring the piece is correct.  Make a template of the bulkhead and use it to ensure the extension is aligned.

 

          Thank-you, thank-you...I had made a template from the plans and will do as you suggest...I have five to repair, (or replace)..I will start one tomorrow...When Model Expo gets back with me, I will probably replace them and start from scratch as I have everything else...BUT in the meantime, I will do exactly as you suggest...!! Again thanks ...

Barry

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Chuck Seiler said:

This is dealing with the broken extensions only.

I see!  So it is the zone where top timbers and half tops reside.   A hardwood scab on the front and/or the back would make it even stronger.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted
41 minutes ago, Jaager said:

I see!  So it is the zone where top timbers and half tops reside.   A hardwood scab on the front and/or the back would make it even stronger.

I agree,

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop

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