Endurance by Galliumsphinx - OcCre - 1:70 - first build

[GalliumSphinx]

Ever look online, see an ad with a model ship, and inadvertently went down a long rabbit trail and purchased a model kit of your favorite historical ship yet have no modelling experience whatsoever? No? Well, I did it twice... I am now in possession of OcCre's Endurance kit and their new Flying Dutchman model (it scares me not because of its cursed nature, but single planked hull). So this is my build log for the Endurance, which is already under way as I just found this forum a few weeks after starting the model, oops. All things considered I'm pretty sure I've made good progress so far, having laid the deck and done the first layer of planking on the hull. Now, it has come to my attention OcCre does not instruct you how to accurately lay your planks to match how it was done on a real historical vessel, which is something I need to learn before my single planked Flying Dutchman (please help), otherwise I'm not too concerned with the Endurance since it will just be painted. Not sure how much detail to talk about since I am a newb and knows nothing about ships except that they float, being from land locked Alberta Canada 850km away from the nearest ocean with a mountain range in-between. Also, any info on inaccuracies that can be fixed or aspects of the model kit that can be improved upon would be much appreciated. 

[starlight]

Glad to see you started a build log! I'm sure others will jump in with detailed advice to any specific questions you have, so I'll just offer some general advice, from one newbie to another.

• Make sure you read the tutorials on hull planking. You can find them in the Articles Database (in the top bar), under the heading "Framing and Planking".
• Check out as many other build logs as you can for the kit you're building: https://modelshipworld.com/tags/Endurance/ This is the best way to inform yourself in advance to any quirks and issues you might encounter, especially if you're going to be doing any kit-bashing. I myself have bookmarked around 15 different logs for the ship I'm building and have found them immensely useful.
• Plan as many steps ahead as you can (by looking at other people's logs), but try not to overthink things to the point where it no longer becomes enjoyable. The goal after all is to have fun.

Best of luck with your build.

 

-starlight

[Tom in NC]

I see by the date on your first response, and the fact that you haven't posted any more progress reports, you may have given up or have other time commitments.  Whatever the case I'd just like to add that I'm working on the Dutchman now and last year built the Endurance and the Ulises tug boat -- all from Occre.  Prior to those builds I took on various models from Model Expo (C.W. Morgan, Chaperon) and Mantua (Cutty Sark, HMS Victory), and a few others earlier on.  You can find build logs on each (except the C.W. Morgan) here on Model Ship World.  On the Morgan I got so hung up on precise detail (after following at least three build logs from superb modelmakers) that I never posted my build, finding my skills to be a bit removed from those other guys.  I also haven't posted build logs on the Endurance and Ulises -- frankly because it's just too much trouble.  I found myself taking way too much time staging photos and trying to write clear descriptions of my work. Nevertheless, I still support Model Ship World because of the wonderful logs so many others take the time to post.

 

I guess my point is that building a ship model means different things to different people.  I love it, but found myself getting tied up in knots worrying about the precise authenticity of my work.  Now I've learned to appreciate that a ship model (or any other type of model) is a representation, not a dead-nuts accurate depiction.  There are other guys and gals on this forum who agonize every detail of their builds, and damn are they good at that, but my own joy comes from simply doing a good yeoman's job and enjoying myself.  My results have been pretty good, but I haven't built a model yet that took more than nine months to complete.  I have the luxury of spending my free time on this, and I have lots of free time, being retired for many years.

 

Please don't get discouraged.  Take whatever time you have and try to build competent models, not necessarily museum quality pieces.  I have models displayed all over the house, and I love looking at them.  Friends, family and visitors all appreciate them (for 2-3 minutes) and uniformly remark on my "patience".  Ho-hum.  I build them for my own pleasure.  

 

I must also comment that the last three models I've built have all been from Occre, and I find them to be much more fun than my previous efforts, not because of their high level of detail, but because the quality of their materials is top drawer, their instructions are quite good (pictures, YouTube build videos, etc.) and they wind up looking (to the casual observer) damned nice.  And when you look at the current pricing of other models it's very easy to decide what to buy.  

 

Hope you continue model building.  It's very satisfying when you worry more about pleasing yourself than anyone else.

 

Tom in NC

[GalliumSphinx]

10 hours ago, Tom in NC said:

I see by the date on your first response, and the fact that you haven't posted any more progress reports, you may have given up or have other time commitments.  Whatever the case I'd just like to add that I'm working on the Dutchman now and last year built the Endurance and the Ulises tug boat -- all from Occre.  Prior to those builds I took on various models from Model Expo (C.W. Morgan, Chaperon) and Mantua (Cutty Sark, HMS Victory), and a few others earlier on.  You can find build logs on each (except the C.W. Morgan) here on Model Ship World.  On the Morgan I got so hung up on precise detail (after following at least three build logs from superb modelmakers) that I never posted my build, finding my skills to be a bit removed from those other guys.  I also haven't posted build logs on the Endurance and Ulises -- frankly because it's just too much trouble.  I found myself taking way too much time staging photos and trying to write clear descriptions of my work. Nevertheless, I still support Model Ship World because of the wonderful logs so many others take the time to post.

 

I guess my point is that building a ship model means different things to different people.  I love it, but found myself getting tied up in knots worrying about the precise authenticity of my work.  Now I've learned to appreciate that a ship model (or any other type of model) is a representation, not a dead-nuts accurate depiction.  There are other guys and gals on this forum who agonize every detail of their builds, and damn are they good at that, but my own joy comes from simply doing a good yeoman's job and enjoying myself.  My results have been pretty good, but I haven't built a model yet that took more than nine months to complete.  I have the luxury of spending my free time on this, and I have lots of free time, being retired for many years.

 

Please don't get discouraged.  Take whatever time you have and try to build competent models, not necessarily museum quality pieces.  I have models displayed all over the house, and I love looking at them.  Friends, family and visitors all appreciate them (for 2-3 minutes) and uniformly remark on my "patience".  Ho-hum.  I build them for my own pleasure.  

 

I must also comment that the last three models I've built have all been from Occre, and I find them to be much more fun than my previous efforts, not because of their high level of detail, but because the quality of their materials is top drawer, their instructions are quite good (pictures, YouTube build videos, etc.) and they wind up looking (to the casual observer) damned nice.  And when you look at the current pricing of other models it's very easy to decide what to buy.  

 

Hope you continue model building.  It's very satisfying when you worry more about pleasing yourself than anyone else. 

 

Tom in NC

 

 

I found doing a build log the same as you Tom, too much trouble. As a first time builder doing a log seemed like it wouldn't help anyone else much, as i have no tips or advice or even most of the basic knowledge about the parts of a ship. And I don't have a good camera or any light in my room for photos . Far from giving up, I've been forging ahead and am working on the shrouds of the endurance despite knowing nothing about how a ship is rigged. My desk has on and off been covered in sawdust and glue rather than my university reports. I have to say I have also come to agree with this quote " Now I've learned to appreciate that a ship model (or any other type of model) is a representation, not a dead-nuts accurate depiction." I've learned I either have the time to build my boat or do research, not both, and no one else who hasn't build the endurance themself will know the difference. 

 

I would be so lost without Occre's videos when it come to the rigging. Sometimes there are discrepancies between the videos and the paper instructions, right now I'm not sure what to do about the top shrouds, in the video they have deadeyes like on the bottom ones, but not in the paper instructions, but I don't think I have enough deadeyes anyway, so I really only have one option. 

 

I appreciate you took the time to comment on an old and probably dead build log. Its nice to be able to engage with a community who understands what goes into building these models,  and especially who can empathize with people taking a minute to look at your model and say how patient you are and then move on. 

[clearway]

On 3/21/2023 at 1:09 AM, GalliumSphinx said:

right now I'm not sure what to do about the top shrouds, in the video they have deadeyes like on the bottom ones, but not in the paper instructions,

Glad to see you are still working on her- they have thimbles and lashed with rope as opposed to deadeyes.

 

Keith

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   I see you're in Alberta, and that make me recall a Gordon Lightfoot song, 'Alberta Bound' ...  Anyway,  GREAT JOB you've done on your project.  I 'get' what you've said about not wanting a long dragged-out log, as there are others on this ship with a lot of detail.  Still,  I wouldn't mind seeing a closer picture of how you handled the stanchions and railing (there is a bunch) ... did you use the PE provided with rigging rope strung between, or did you go to the luxury of buying 3D stanchions for wire railing?  This is a build in my future and I don't mind seeing how multiple builders did things on Endurance.

 

  Come to think about it, ship modeling is really an art form, and what we make has to have at least some compromises from a full-sized version ... and the smaller the scale the more has to either be left out or simplified (like teeny ships in a bottle that require SERIOUS simplification).  Another form of ship artwork is painting, so the farther away the ship appears in the painting the smaller the 'apparent' scale is - and the same 'simplification effect' applies to 2D art as it does for 3D art.  So don't worry about close-up photography ... that only magnifies the smallest of irregularities that an in-person observer will never discern.

[GalliumSphinx]

2 hours ago, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

   I see you're in Alberta, and that make me recall a Gordon Lightfoot song, 'Alberta Bound' ...  Anyway,  GREAT JOB you've done on your project.  I 'get' what you've said about not wanting a long dragged-out log, as there are others on this ship with a lot of detail.  Still,  I wouldn't mind seeing a closer picture of how you handled the stanchions and railing (there is a bunch) ... did you use the PE provided with rigging rope strung between, or did you go to the luxury of buying 3D stanchions for wire railing?  This is a build in my future and I don't mind seeing how multiple builders did things on Endurance.

 

  Come to think about it, ship modeling is really an art form, and what we make has to have at least some compromises from a full-sized version ... and the smaller the scale the more has to either be left out or simplified (like teeny ships in a bottle that require SERIOUS simplification).  Another form of ship artwork is painting, so the farther away the ship appears in the painting the smaller the 'apparent' scale is - and the same 'simplification effect' applies to 2D art as it does for 3D art.  So don't worry about close-up photography ... that only magnifies the smallest of irregularities that an in-person observer will never discern.

 

There aren't many songs about Alberta so I definitely know Alberta bound, you don't hear it often but most people into country and folk music know it.

 

As this was my first kit and already quite an expense as a university student I've pretty much stuck with what came with the kit. I know from looking at the expedition photos the stanchions (had to lookup what that meant and just got pictures of those things used to make lines at movie theatres and things) and things like the wheel house certainly could be upgraded. I stuck with the PE brass as in my opinion it looks decent although not 100% accurate. They are a hassle to do, I have broken the railings too many times to count at this point, just an unfortunate consequence of the spike that goes into the wood being so short the glue has very little to hold on too. They do hold reasonably well I found if I glue them and put them in, and then add extra super glue around the base with a brush applicator afterwards. Whichever option you choose will look great in the eyes of a casual observer. 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   'Looks just fine to me ...

 

 Yeah, I did note the small 'spikes' on the bottom of the stanchions.  I did get some 3D from Cornwall in England, but may save them for a clipper I'd like to build - and they were pricy ... around $65 USD at the time.  Since then I found a 3-jaw universal chuck (new 'old stock' since Unimat & accessories are not made anymore) so might try to see if I can turn my own out of brass - so cross drilling for railings remains a challenge.

 

  A way to improve the PE supplied by OcCre might be to saw a shallow slot in the end of 1/8" brass rod held vertically in a vise to accept the spike, bevel the end by filing, then soft solder or just use CA to attach.  'Seems like a lot of trouble.

 

  Another idea might be to note the spacing of stanchions for each railing run, make a jig to hold the flat stanchions edgewise so thin brass wire could be threaded through and soft soldered or Ca'd (or epoxied) at each join.  After removal from the jig, the railing run would be slowly hand-bent to shape - then the spikes could make small dinks in the gunwale with light pressure so guide hoiles could be pre-drilled with a wire drill in a manual pin chuck.  Again, some trouble involved, but I'll often 'fiddle' (ort bodge) things for amusement.

 

  The Admiral thinks I'm half crazy anyway ...