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Tom in NC

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About Tom in NC

  • Birthday 03/02/1943

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    Weaverville, North Carolina
  • Interests
    Family (14 grandchildren), Reading, NASCAR, NFL football, custom furniture design & construction, and finally model ship building

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  1. David Don’t know if you ever saw my question above but it finally occurred to me to look at the parts list and all the answers are right there. I feel pretty stupid. Now headed for Syren and Bluejacket. All best, Tom in NC
  2. David I know you’ve moved well beyond the CWM, but your terrific build log lingers on. I’ve been using it as my primary guide in building the same kit … and I have some questions if you’d be inclined to help me out. One in particular. You detailed the size and origins of the blocks you ordered from Syren and Bluejacket, but your list didn’t indicate whether they were single or double blocks, nor how many of each were needed. I’ve tried to discern that from the plans but am stumped. I know it’s asking a lot, but if you could dredge that info up out of memory it would sure be appreciated. I’ve been working on this project since March (6-8 hours a day) and am fast approaching the dreaded rigging stage. As you observed, the number of fittings that have to be installed on the masts and yards is formidable. I have especially appreciated your notes and pictures re how you did things along the way. This model requires a level of inventiveness beyond any I’ve done so far and your explanations re how you came up with workarounds have been extremely helpful in that regard. Your superb work, along with that of Gerald Spargo has inspired me to create results far beyond my previous efforts. Once again, I love your build log and your photos. You are a super star when it comes to ship modeling. I can only hope my own results will be 1/2 as good as yours. Tom in NC Tom Hoxie tomhoxie@aol.com
  3. Thanks to all of you. These comments are very helpful. I'm off to the "shipyard" (as my wife calls it). I need to start posting some of my progress and eventually you'll see how these ideas helped me. MSW is great!!!
  4. I’m currently working on the Model Shipways 1:64 Charles W Morgan and there are a number of places where iron rod is needed to fashion fittings. In particular the plans call for chain plates to be fashioned from 0.016” iron rod — and I have no clue re where to get any of that. Or any other small diameter wire/iron rod suitable for shaping fittings. In some cases I’m going to have to solder the parts I need to create and I’m just learning how to do that. If you have some resources for this kind of thing it would sure help me. Many thanks. Tom in NC tomhoxie@aol.com
  5. David: Sorry about your throwing in the towel on this model. I've never done that (yet) but I can imagine making such a decision. I have done one project during this modeling lifetime (I returned to ship building a few years ago after a 45 year sabbatical -- called making a living) that I went ahead and finished even though I was not happy with the work that I'd done. My son loved the thing so I gave it to him and he brags about my work. I can live with that. The real reason I'm writing is to tell you that I'm starting on the Model Shipways Charles W. Morgan next week (my birthday present to myself) , and I am planning to use your fantastic CWM build log as a guide. I don't know if I can match your work, but I'm gonna try like hell. Best of luck on whatever your next project turns out to be. Tom In NC Tom Hoxie
  6. HMS Victory Build Log -- Part 2 -- 2/18/21 After the final sanding of the hull I determined the position of the waterline, masked it off and proceeded to apply an ochre yellow color the middle part of the Victory’s hull was painted with. I was able to find a very satisfactory artist acrylic paint online that is thick enough to fill smaller voids so that you wind up with a very nice, smooth result. To use with a finer brush in hard-to-reach spaces you can thin this acrylic paint with water to make things easier. It was available in a much bigger bottle than the little paints you find in hobby stores – and you’ll need that extra amount of paint on this ship. After the paint was dry I used the aforementioned template to locate the gunports, taking care to move a few to positions where the ports could be cut without hitting one of the underlying bulkheads. Once I had the port shapes scribed onto the surface I first drilled holes within those borders then use a sharp Xacto blade to cut away excess and bring the openings to their final size. The kit provides nice brass “frames” for the gunports and I used those to insure that I had the holes square and of the right size. Before cutting the two lower rows of gunports I installed the gunwales to ensure that the ports were properly positioned between them. At some point you have to assemble the gunport covers, and it’s a step-by-step process of cutting the cover, planking it with two small planks, painting them yellow on one side and red on the other, then installing the associated hardware. If I had it to do over again I’d skip doing the extra planking – it just makes the cover thicker than it needs to be and adds nothing of any value. Once I had the gunport covers all cut out & painted I set them aside and assembled the bow components. As mentioned earlier, brass frames are provided for all the gunports. They must have the inside edges painted red. Then brass drip moldings are glued on over the gunports on the two lower decks – and they are differently shaped for some reason. Note the lower hull copper cladding. More about that in a minute. The next picture shows the aft crew and captain’s cabin sides fully installed. As I mentioned much earlier there were several pieces in this kit that were formed from thin plywood and stamped with a faux gold color. I didn’t like them much but managed to make them work by (a) painting all of the windows a light blue, and (b) coating all of the cabin pieces with Minwax semi-gloss water-based arylic. It all came out much better than I had hoped. Note that these parts got a semi-gloss finish as opposed to the decks that got a matte finish. The copper cladding bits were not included in this version of the ship, which is just as well since I had hated trying to install those things on the Mantua Cutty Sark that I completed a couple of years ago. I instead used 1/8” copper foil electrical tape for my cladding (manufactured by PEMOtech). It goes on very smoothly, and once it’s in place you can add vertical slits to emulate the plates. Teensy rivets for authenticity? Nahhh. To add durability I coated it all, along with the rest of the hull, with the Minwax matte finish acrylic. It looks great and I strongly suggest you consider it if you plan to copper clad a ship model. It comes in a variety of different sizes too. The next picture is meant to show what carelessness can look like. It all cleaned up OK, but yuuuck! Each cannon on the upper deck and the lower gundeck had to be assembled. The cannons on the lower decks are simply glued into holes drilled into gun support rails inside the gunports. By the way, if you’ve ever tried to assemble a model like this you know how difficult it is to handle the thing and hold it in any particular position while you make additions. Paint smudges, bits break, etc. Ugh. So when I discovered the PANA Vise I was ecstatic. I was able to twist and turn the hull in almost any direction and fix it in place to add bits & pieces on the sides and deck. I used this device throughout the hull assembly process and it's a lot more versatile than a simple keel clamp. I highly recommend it. From this point I'll just add pictures of various additions to the hull and deck construction with brief comments... Sea gangways & cannons installed. According to the plans the cannons should be flat black. I like them better with their unpainted brass finish. Cannon port covers. Tedious job, not well-explained in the plans. The gunport covers have to be attached to the hull but there is no description re how to do that. I finally created wire loops just above the gunports and hung the hinges on them, adding a drop or two of super glue to hold them at the right angle. Then I inserted thread into holes I drilled in the hull, with a drop of glue to hold those in place. Lastly I connected the thread to the eyelets on the covers and trimmed off the excess. Only had to repeat this process 80 or 90 times. Gaaaack. Captain's cabin skylight added, along with flag lockers at the stern. This was, after all, a flagship :):):) Additional details added to the bow construction. Several other deck components installed. Ladders Banisters Lower gun deck details (hatches, entryways); lifeboat supports frame the hole in the deck. Foredeck details (bitts, cannonball racks, hatches, belfry, etc.) Lifeboats completed and installed. Never did figure out why there are four different sizes. Basic rigging attachments installed (channels, chain plates & deadeyes). The bowsprit is lashed into place at two points on the bow. No clue in the plans re how to accomplish this. I used a nice big curved upholstery needle to guide the cordage into place. Foremast assembled and slipped into place. Main mast and mizzen masts added. Note cannons installed on the deck and coiled ropes. Beginning installation of upper ratlines/shrouds on one of the masts. Mizzen mast w/upper ratlines completed w/assembled yards added. Figurehead painted and installed. Note heavy ropes holding bowsprit in place and other rigging details. Four decorative lanterns (three on the stern and one on the main mast) must be constructed using nice brass & plastic components provided. Bowsprit standing rigging details (note comfy chair and messy workspace). I’m obviously not a neat freak. Or an especially good photographer. Closer view of main deck cannons and restraining rope attachment schemes. Also note companionway to lower gun deck as well as stairs/railings coming down from the forecastle deck. All three masts & bowsprit in place; ready to start serious rigging. Will continue in a few days ... HMS Victory Build Log -- Part 3 -- 3/1/21 Here's the rest of my HMS Victory story.. The railings provided with this model were basically u-shaped brass loops into which you were supposed to neatly insert a folded black nylon mesh. They call it “hammock netting”. They look fantastic on the finished model in the plans and the box illustrations (see picture below), but when I was challenged to perform that scheme I completely failed. Probably the fussiest thing you are expected to do on the whole model. Sooo, I ordered some appropriately-sized 3-hole stanchions from Ages of Sail and constructed the ship railings with them. Again, probably something only an expert model maker would notice, but it sure looks better than what I was doing. Chain plate construction & attachment First chore in the transition from hull building to rigging was assembling the three masts. As I mentioned in the beginning, I didn’t do a very good job of memorializing every step of this build. Here is a picture showing the three masts after preliminary assembly and fitted to the hull. No good photography to show how it was done. Some of the best clues re the rigging on this model are contained in the excellent photos on the box – even though the paint scheme in those pictures is nothing like the one described in the instructions … The picture below shows the foremast with the upper ratlines pretty much done. I’ve seen in some other build logs that I’m not alone in being confused when it comes to the attachment of yards to masts. In this case I chose to drill a hole thru the yard and the mast, insert a piece of brass wire, slip the yard on to that and then lash the whole thing into position. I’m sure there are better ways to do it, and hope I’ll learn what the trick is before starting my next ship. For the record, I don’t think anyone but another model ship builder will notice what I did. And now here are various shots of rigging in progress... Doesn't this look like fun? One work trick I learned was getting the ship in a position where it could be turned around and be at an appropriate level to work on from a chair. I salvaged an old ironing board that my wife wanted sent off to the dump, and added a cheap 12” wooden Lazy Susan. Made the rigging challenges a lot easier. The flags that came with the model were unacceptable. Printed on some sort of thin linen but only on one side. Soooo, I scanned the kit flags, dragged the scans into PowerPoint and downloaded matching British flag designs from the Internet. I flipped and duplicated each image then printed the whole page out on matte finish photo paper. Trimmed each image and “glued” them together, back to back, with rubber cement. They were easy to bend and furl, and they turned out great. And so, the sun sets on my HMS victory build. It’s been a lot of fun and I’ve learned many new tricks and techniques – mostly from the build logs of other model makers who are a lot more skilled than I. MSW is a fantastic source for people who are still just learning. Thanks to all. Finished Project I moved my Victory into the house where it now occupies a place of honor in the middle of our great room. Love it, love it love it. Tom In NC (Tom Hoxie) Weaverville, NC
  7. Chris: Yep. I'm 77 years old, been retired for 20+ years, got over golf & woodworking after 15 years, and now really enjoy model ship building. Oh, and I haven't been able to get a COVID vaccination yet. When I was building my Cutty Sark a couple of years ago (which I finished in about the same amount of time as the Victory) I was flummoxed by communications with a fellow modeler who had been working on his Cutty for NINE years !!! I just can't imagine taking that long to do anything. Putting in just 3-4 hours a day can get a lot of stuff done while leaving me plenty of time for several other enjoyable pursuits. Tom Hoxie
  8. Previous Build Logs Portland Paddle Wheel Steamer https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19493-portland-by-tom-in-nc-finished-bluejacket-shipcrafters-scale-18-my-re-entry-into-the-model-ship-world-after-a-45-year-absence/ Cutty Sark by Mantua https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19525-cutty-sark-by-tom-in-nc-mantua-sergal-scale-178-after-a-45-year-hiatus-i-thought-id-come-back-and-do-something-easy/ Chaperon Steamship Re-imagtined https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21519-chaperon-by-tom-in-nc-–-model-shipways-148-scale-–-renamed-“jezebel”-and-given-a-new-reimagined-history/ Caveat This build log is being submitted after-the-fact. I started this project in March 2020 – just as the COVID pandemic was hitting full stride -- and was so immersed in it for the next nine months (finished the build in late November 2020) that I was quite lax about my photography and writing out my procedures. I’ll submit this anyway as I’m sure there will be many builders who will take this challenge on themselves, but I apologize for the brevity of the thing. This model is certainly not for beginners. If you have some experience and know what you're doing the final result will be very satisfying. Purchase and Start-up When shopping for this model in early 2020 I found there were very few to be found. European sellers were not parting with it for whatever reasons (taxes, trade barriers, ???). But I happened upon a kit that was available right away at Model Expo in Florida. On their web site at the time there were some interesting comments from the founder of Model Expo that tell of his years-long relationship (since 1971) with the designer of this kit, Sergio Fabrizi -- who has since sold the rights to this kit and others to Sergal. I’m not sure, but I suspect that the model I got was previously owned and repurchased from the original buyer who stashed it on a shelf somewhere. It was in great shape, and I don’t feel I was cheated, but read on to see why this matters. The instructions that come with it are printed in a variety of languages, and I don’t mind saying, the translations leave a lot to be desired if you are an English-speaker. But there’s a helpful solution. Supplemental English instructions for the Mantua 1:78 scale HMS Victory (version ART 738) are available as downloadable .pdf files (gasp) for free … my kit is an earlier version (ART 782) but the differences are not great. https://www.mantuamodel.co.uk/downloads/2-uncategorised/37-english-translations Scroll down the page and you will find 4 downloadable files – English translations for the ART 738 version of the HMS Victory. These instructions were great. There is also a file re planking at the top of the list, and I found it immensely helpful. I’ve planked two ship models before, but I’m far enough from being an expert that every little bit of guidance helps. The kit seemed to be in good shape -- even though it showed some signs of being on a shelf somewhere for quite a while. At first glance all the bits and pieces seemed to be included. Later on, I discovered some shortages. My garage work area was ready … I mentioned that the English instructions I downloaded for ART 738 were a little different than for my ART 782 kit. One of the differences between the two kits is that some parts included in the later kit are made from brass, while in my kit they are mostly made from thin, printed plywood. They are OK, simply different than what I expected. How I dealt with them will be covered later. The laser-cut bulkhead and keel elements were well made, and I had little problem with alignment and assembly. Note that I used the Veritas twin-screw vice at the end of my homebuilt workbench to hold things in place while assembling the keel. Next step was installing and planking the lower gun deck. As you can see, I took the time to cut a good many deck boards in advance. Problem with that was that I cut these elements from some 0.5 x 4 mm boards provided. I should have used the 0.5 x 3 mm boards the instructions called for. Grrrr. Luckily, I caught this mistake before gluing any in place. It’s hard to measure the difference between widths of 3 and 4 mm. I switched to the 0.5 x 3 mm boards, and after getting about ½ the lower gun deck done I realized that I didn’t have anywhere near enough of them to finish the lower gun deck, let alone all the main deck elements that would come later. Grrrr again. I fired off an email to Model Expo, admitting my mistake with the 4 mm planks and describing the missing 3 mm pieces. While waiting for what I hoped would be a satisfactory resolution I elected to start assembling the lifeboats. There are 4 different lifeboats. They are also plank-on-bulkhead challenges, but much smaller. I used Gorilla Glue gel on the lifeboats because it does not drip like many glues, and it grips wet boards quickly. Since I would be painting these little devils later the white residue that the gel leaves won’t be bothersome, but you need to be very careful using gel where a white residue cannot be disguised. After waiting for a week, and not hearing back from Model Expo I just assumed that they had to close shop because of the Covid-19 virus. So, I proceeded to hunt for the planking I needed online. Another of my favorite model-making supply shops came through in spades. Ages of Sail https://www.agesofsail.com/ shipped me a supply of 0.5 x 3 and 0.5 x 4 walnut strips within a week. Great quality too. While I waited (I am obviously not very good at waiting) I finished the lower gun deck with some of the 0.5 x 4 mm planks I had pre-cut knowing that they wouldn’t show very much when all was said and done. I also painted the lower deck bulkheads with the ochre yellow paint called for. Found some artist acrylic stuff on Amazon that worked great. Have enough left over to do 2-3 more ships With the lower gun deck “complete”, and with the new supply of walnut deck planking, I put away the partially completed lifeboats and moved on to installing and planking the main deck. When the deck planking was complete I coated each deck with Minwax water- based, matte finish, polyurethane. Great stuff. Planking the Hull Note that you need to bevel the edges of several bulkheads so that the planking can wrap around them properly and provide a good gluing surface. The black boards you see inside the bulkhead structure are where you will mount the cannons eventually. By the way, one HMS Victory build log I have read included some comments about the wood being so brittle that it cracks when bending it. That will almost always be the case unless you soak the wood. I found an appropriately sized plastic tray at Lowe’s that allowed me soak my hull wood for quite a while before attempting to bend it. It’s really quite flexible when thoroughly wet. I use small nails to hold the planks in place while the glue dries. I use pin insertion pliers designed for that purpose (https://www.micromark.com/ ) and the nails go in easily through wet boards. When I got to the point of tapering the planks into the stern I realized that other than some pictures there were no instructions to help me decide how to do that. See how the planks end awkwardly in the picture below. So I fashioned some “filler” pieces from scrap plywood that allowed me to wrap the planks around to a better position. Appearance didn’t matter much in this first layer of hull planking, so I “sculpted” the area with wood filler. The final planking layer would later cover that. Pretty ugly, but effective. The rest of the initial planking at the rear was again something to figure out from pictures – little or no instructions. The way I look at it, the initial planking is where you establish the right curvature and shape of the hull. The fact that it’s ugly doesn’t really matter. Wood filler rules !!! Once the first course of planks is laid you can start filling, sanding and smoothing. The metamorphosis is very satisfying. You start out thinking “this is not going to work”, but somehow it does. Somewhere along the way I decided that it might be a good idea to try on the template that determines where the cannon ports will eventually go. The directions didn’t recommend this – but I had a premonition. I first marked the position of the bulkheads, then positioned the template. Sure enough, some of the the cannon ports lay right where a bulkhead lurked beneath (see the lines showing up below). I still don’t know why that happened, but forewarned is forearmed, and I knew that when it came time to cut the ports I’d have to make adjustments. So. on to the second layer of planking, and this time appearance counts a lot more. The planking instructions I suggested that you download from the Mantua site were quite helpful. They aren’t specific to this model, but they give you step-by-step advice re tapering boards and filling the curved spaces efficiently. The final sanding and shaping is very important. I'll try to file the next installment of this build log in a few days.
  9. Yves ... thanks for your comments. No, I don't plan to add any people even though the Statute of Limitations has probably run its course.
  10. 2nd & Final Build Log Entry – Chaperon aka Jezebel My apologies for taking so long to provide some closure on my Jezebel project. I had two surgeries to remove a large kidney stone in November, and then had gastric bypass surgery in late December. I’m just now starting to eat soft foods again and I feel fine. Have lost 30 lbs so far and hope to lose another 100 lbs by year’s end. But enough of that. I finished Jezebel back in November but failed to do a very good job photographing my last steps. I’ll share as much as I can using pictures of the finished model. If you’ve read this build log so far you’ll know that my “imagined” history for Jezebel (AKA Chaperon) has seen some changes as various folks made really good suggestions and comments. So let me get the story back on track in order to eliminate any confusion (or at least try to). The enterprising young Kentuckian who conceived of making the old Chaperon a “party” boat during Prohibition finally settled on removing her engines and permanently docking her in Newport, KY, right across the river from Cincinnati. I don’t think they had very good aerial or satellite photography in those days, but if they had, here’s what the overhead scene would have looked like. The boat shown here is moored facing upstream. Jezebel was tied up with her port side toward the dock. Having settled on this arrangement, I set about completing Jezebel with several modifications. As you’ve already seen, I created a saloon and casino area on the lower deck where the engines used to be. I also figured out a way to expose one of the enlarged bedrooms on the upper deck. All these spaces were also lighted so that folks could look inside. Pictures and details coming up. Also, since people were now boarding from the port side, I eliminated the large front gangplank altogether. Here’s the final layout of the saloon & casino. The 1/48 scale furniture came from an English company that produces a wide array of dollhouse furniture in several different scales. The name of that company is Seaside Miniatures and they can be found on Etsy. You’ll see as we go long that I used a goodly number of their furniture bits, and a few I built myself, to add to Jezebel’s “party” boat theme. As I prepared to install the boiler deck (mis-named because the boiler is located on the main deck) it was crucial to dry fit everything carefully. When laying the individual deck pieces in place I realized that the holes for the 3/32” stationaries were not going to line up. I did something wrong when completing the main deck that made it a bit wider than it should have been. To cure this problem, I had to widen the boiler deck by inserting a scrap wood spacer down the centerline before gluing it together. I also installed deck planks like I did on the main deck and applied mahogany stain to them before attempting to install the boiler deck. Note the 3/32” stationaries were all dry-fitted to aid with the final alignment of the deck before gluing it in place. I also used some blue painter’s tape to line things up. After applying a liberal amount of wood glue along the top of the lower deck walls I held the boiler deck in place with two paint cans and let it all dry overnight. I was greatly relieved to find that it all lined up when it was done. As I installed the boiler deck walls, I devoted a space at the stern end for a large bedroom. Initially I planned for viewers to be able to see inside by removing a section of the port wall. Later on, I decided to remove part of the “roof” too. Once again, I used appropriate book cloth to represent wall-to-wall carpeting. It was about this time I decided that the saloon, casino and bedroom all had to be lighted. No way anyone was going to be able to see inside otherwise. A visit to my local hobby shop revealed that there any number of LED lighting accessories for use in model train layouts. I selected a battery-powered set with an off-on switch and brought it home to puzzle out how to make it work with Jezebel. There’s a connector for 4 LED lights, an on/off switch and a battery pack. This is a little hard to explain, but I located all the light gear just forward of the bedroom. As you’ll see later it will be accessible for battery maintenance via a lift-off panel on the next deck up. With three of the LED lights in place above the saloon and casino I was happy with the lighting effects. The Hurricane deck house contains the on/off switch for the lights. As mentioned earlier, since Jezebel was to be located with the starboard side against the dock I eliminated the large gang plank on the bow. Here’s the new boarding gate on the starboard side where visitors will now arrive. Imagine a set of boarding stairs on the dock. Also note the “lid” on the Hurricane Deck which hides all the lighting equipment. Here’s a shot with the “lid” removed. Note that the on/off switch is located on the Hurricane deck where the wheelhouse will be attached. Here’s the side of Jezebel that river travelers see. Impressive signage and smokestacks standing tall & proud. Probably some honky-tonk music too. Here’s what the bedroom lighting looked like when finished. Cutting away part of the “roof” as well as the side wall allows people to get a better view of the furniture arrangement. It also allowed me to include a lot more detail. Once again, the 1/48th furniture bits all come from Seaside Miniatures (find them on Etsy). Good stuff, nice people. Here’s the casino. Craps and blackjack tables added later. Ready to install Hurricane deck details and wheelhouse. Note that the main deck railing has been cut down to people-size … horses will no longer be coming aboard … and the uprights and detail grille work has been added to the boiler/bedroom deck. In this picture the completed wheelhouse has been installed, and the wheelhouse ladder & railing assembly is just about done. The square “patch” on the deck below the ladder is merely a cover hiding the Unfortunate seams where the decking comes together. I was not looking forward to fabricating the paddle wheel, but it turned out to be much easier than the double paddlewheels I had to fabricate on my model of the Portland a year or so ago. Note the use of a small square to keep the wheel segments aligned while the glue dried. And now for detail shots of the finished boat … Thanks for following along … and for the many comments and good ideas. This is a fun model to build, and the quality is very good. If anything doesn’t look right, it’s my fault. I have no idea what my next project will be, but I’ve had some pretty strange ideas. How about a 4 ft tall, highly detailed pagoda with instructions all written in Japanese? Or maybe a $1,250 model of the Bon Homme Richard? 44” long and complete with all Chinese language instructions. Hmmm. Or maybe something else. See y’all later. Tom Hoxie Weaverville, NC
  11. Thanks Brian. I hope you have as much fun building this model as I have. Cathead has advised that Kurt Van Dahm sells an excellent extended tutorial on building this kit . I looked at it, but given how far I've already gotten I passed up the opportunity to buy it. I'm kinda stubborn and most of the fun I get out of ship building is running into unsolvable problems and solving them myself. In my last avocation following formal retirement I got into woodworking, then designing and building Asian-inspired furniture. No formal education, just Googling for answers and a pretty good imagination. Did it for 16 years and paid for about $15,000 worth of tools two or three times over. Best of luck... TOM
  12. Bob: You and Eric (and probably many more in this forum) are so knowledgeable on these arcane topics that a knothead like me hasn't got a prayer of sneaking anything by. As I hinted to Eric, my revised story line will likely see Jezebel living out her last days as a wharf queen. With her big steam engine removed to provide room for a saloon and casino she will have to stay lashed to the shore, attracting visitors with flashing lights and hints of pleasures not fully described. I plan to moor her on the banks of the Ohio River in Newport, KY. Bringing in some facts from Wikipedia, and adding some anecdotal memories of my own, here's why that's the best place for her to be ... Prohibition under the Volstead Act of 1919 resulted in a widespread illegal sale of alcohol. Many gangsters began to smuggle alcohol into the city to supply citizens and businesses. Speakeasies, bribery and corruption became the norm in Newport. Upscale gambling casinos on Monmouth street added to its "sin city" reputation. Eventually, investigations for racketeering pushed out the casinos, which were replaced by peep shows and adult strip clubs. Many of the old businesses disappeared when parking became difficult on Monmouth Street and the commercial district opened on the hill of south Newport. Newport retained it's shady reputation up until the early 1980's when she seriously started cleaning up her act. That cleanup has been mostly successful. I doubt Jezebel could get away with converting her boiler to being a still -- too many tell-tale smells to tip off any "honest" cops that might come around. I hope despite my simplifying the story, and making it a bit more factual in the process, that you and Eric will help to keep me on the straight and narrow if I stray again. All best, Tom Hoxie
  13. Sheer genius. I'll build that idea into the story. I'm still working on the engine problem. While trying to ascertain what type of engine and HP the Chaperon boasted I ran across your exceptional thread about steamboats. I'm pretty sure that my off-the-cuff idea about four Model T engines would provide way too little power. Four of them could only reach about 80-100 HP @ 1600 RPM, and if you multiply their torque (83 ft-lbs @ 900 RPM) by 4 you're still not getting a lot of ooomph. Knowing you're watching me, and what your level of expertise is, I'll need to be careful not to too carried away with my fantasies. The steam engine is irrevocably gone on this boat, so maybe Jezebel will wind up being a wharf queen after all. By the way, I'm a cat lover too so go easy on me.
  14. druxey: I'm glad you're enjoying it. Writing a book would probably be fun -- I did a lot of writing during my career -- but boat building has captured my interest right now, and at the age of 76 I'd really hate trying to start a new career that involved deadlines. With guys like Cathead watching me make mistakes and forcing me to invent some sort of excuse is about as fun as this gets. Loving it all...
  15. Eric: I thought I answered your post this afternoon, but I don't see my reply here so I guess I still haven't figured out all the puzzles re build log posting, etc. This whole site can be rather opaque, or maybe I'm just sliding into dementia faster than I realize. I'll look at what Kurt Van Dahm has to offer. As far as the engine room being given over to the casino on Jezebel you have a great point. I'll try to come up with a plausible explanation. Plausibility ain't truth, but what the heck. Here's a stab at this quandary ... Some of the most inventive people in the world are hotrodders. They've managed to devise some very unusual methods of locomotion far beyond what's standard. For instance, in 1960 Mickey Thompson showed up at the Bonneville Salt Flats intending to break the Land Speed Record with his Challenger l streamliner -- which was powered by powered by four supercharged Pontiac V8 engines, . He almost succeeded. How about if our young Kentucky lad came up with a plan to power Jezebel with four Ford Model T engines? I can imagine getting rid of the huge steam engine, and hollowing out some hull space below the casino floor for that purpose. It would occupy a lot less space, and save a lot of weight. If he could pull that kind of modification off he could eliminate the need for the huge boiler, perhaps disguising it and packing it with elicit whisky storage. It would also allow space previously devoted to coal or lumber fuels to be used for something else. The Jezebel didn't have to be "just" a pleasure boat. Smuggling was a pretty profitable enterprise in those days. That explanation strains credulity, but my story about Jezebel was already doing that. Thanks for making me think things through. This is fun. TOM Now let's see if clicking "submit reply" works this time.
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