How do I figure out how much wood plank I need?

[Doug Ojai]

Hello, first time posting to this forum and Im sure everyone is rolling their eyes, ha ha.  I have built one model kit J Class sailboat and am now building a replica by scratch.  How do I determine how much plank to order?  I guess I could calculate the rough area, then divide by the length/width of the planks, but with the curvy nature of the hull, the area is not so straight forward.  The model is 48" long, 10" wide.  I was going to use Boxwood, but any other suggestions are appreciated

[Bob Cleek]

Hey, welcome to the forum! Before anybody else does, let me suggest you go to the "new members" section and "introduce yourself," if you haven't already. 

 

I had some time on my hands and figured I'd respond to your question by sharing some thoughts on making the transition from model kit assembly to model building from scratch. Each approach has it's advantages and amazing work is done by many in both instances. it seems to be a natural progression, however, that folks begin with kits, then start supplementing their kit builds with aftermarket parts, then begin "kit bashing," and finally make the quantum leap to scratch building or what is known in the trade as "The Dark Side." The biggest difference between kit building and scratch building, as you've now discovered, whether you realize it or not, is that when scratch-building, the modeler must 'front load" his work with all the plans required, including translating plans for full-sized construction to plans for scale model construction, compiling materials lists, as you've encountered here, and so on. I'd guess the scratch builder puts as much time into historical research, drafting, tool acquisition, and shop management, as goes into the actual building process itself. If one doesn't have a taste for these tasks, they will probably enjoy greater satisfaction staying with with kit building.

 

Since you mention planking with boxwood, I presume you are contemplating finishing the hull bright and showing all the plank seams. First off, you may want to reconsider using boxwood for planking after you price the stuff. There is a lot of waste involved in planking, although the offcuts will be useful for other purposes of the build. Boxwood can be stiff and difficult to bend, as well. Clear, fine grained Alaskan Yellow Cedar comes close in appearance and is easier to work with and considerably less expensive. (See: https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/AnOverviewOfWoodProperties.pdf)

 

The method of planking is the first consideration. Do you plan to edge-set a lot of your planks as in the method described by master-modeler Chuck Passaro of this forum (and owner of Syren Shipmodel Company) or more traditional spiled plank? See: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/) Chuck's method is much more economical in terms of wood requirements, but may not be suitable for all planks in a wineglass-sectioned hull like a J Boat.  A hull with a lot of "tuck" may also require planking stock of varying thicknesses to accommodate "backing out" and "rounding off" to achieve the sharp frame curves aft. (This process involves carving a convex or concave face on the plank so it will lay fair against the faying surface of a sharply curved frame and fairly follow the outboard curve.) I suggest you read up on planking technique to learn to visualize plank shapes and understand how to spile plank to develop the proper plank shapes necessary. (See:https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/LiningOffYourHullPlankingTutorialAndFan.pdf) Some planks must be cut from substantially wide stock to accommodate the plank's curved shape. The scale of the model will dictate the plank lengths and widths. If you plan to show the plank seams as is the case with bright-finished hulls, you will need more plank to replicate full-size planking at scale. if you are simply "planking" to attain the shape of the hull and then paint it, you'll have more latitude in "skinning" the hull. For these reasons, the answer to the question of how much planking stock you may need is, "It depends." Not a real helpful answer, I know. 

 

You're talking about a good-sized model of 48". I'm guessing the scale is somewhere around 1:36 (1 inch equals about 3 feet.) If you put a rig on the model, it will stand about seven feet tall. Are you talking about a sailing model or a display model? At a scale that large, your build will probably require planking in the same manner as full-size practice. You will have to "line off" your planking and spile the planks to shape no matter how you cut it. You might as well get out your drawing board and do your spiling on paper to determine your maximum planking widths and scale lengths. This will provide you with a pretty good idea of the amount and size of planking stock you'll require to plank the hull. I'd add 25 to 50% additional to the planked area of the hull for off-cut waste and "goofs." With this sort of build, you will be better off milling your stock on an "as needed" basis than trying to source expensive pre-milled stock from the various vendors. 

 

As a practical matter, particularly for a build the size you contemplate, I'd think you'd be well-advised to invest in the Byrnes Model Tools "trifecta, their  table saw, thickness planer, and disk sander, (http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/index5.html), a decent scroll saw at the least, if not additionally a "14 bandsaw or a 10" table saw, and think in terms of buying your wood in fair sized billets and milling it yourself. (See: https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/MillingScaleLumber.pdf) These tools aren't inexpensive but they hold their value pretty well and can always be sold if you lose interest in the hobby and the savings you will realize milling your own stock will substantially defray their purchase cost. There are those, and more power to them, who will say that the great Navy Board Models in museums were built with hand tools (which isn't entirely true) and all you need is a coping saw and an x-acto knife and you're good to go. It is true some remarkable models have been built with remarkably primitive tools, but the reality is that the level of accuracy modelers aspire to today, and the time it takes to scratch-build a model, benefit greatly from a limited number of specialized power tools which can eliminate a lot of the tedium and drudgery which otherwise can go with the territory. (See: https://thenrg.org/articles/power-tools)

 

Building an "as built" large scale model from scratch can be a daunting task, but, like any project, easy enough if it's broken into discrete steps and care is taken to do the best work possible on each step. It should be said, though, that unlike running shoes, advising a beginning modeler to "Just do it!" is more often a recipe for disappointment. A large scale J Boat can be a beautiful thing. They have remarkably graceful hulls. (Their tall rigs will often chase everybody out of the room when they're finished, though. )  I'd encourage you to begin and build upon what you've learned from your first model, but do it right and avoid the pitfalls that can take all the fun out of the enterprise in short order if you don't plan each process carefully in advance and...

 

Edited February 8, 2023 by Bob Cleek

[allanyed]

Welcome to MSW Doug,

 

Are you speaking of European boxwood or castello boxwood, which is a wonderful wood with which to work? Take Bob's post seriously.  If you're going to be painting the hull, consider something like poplar or basswood.  I predominantly use castello boxwood for period ships that are not painted, but for schooners and such that will be painted, it is not necessary to go to the expense if you don't want to.  

 

As to figuring the amount of lumber, look at the amount of space from keel to the top of the futtocks at midships.   Multiply times the length, then double it to cover port and starboard.  Add another 20% for mistakes and waste if buying planks. In the long run  I agree with Bob in that it is better to buy billets of timber and cutting it to size.  The waste in sawdust is high but it is the same for anyone supplying finished planking so you will be paying for the wood plus the labor that goes into it.   It only takes a few models to get your money back on a good saw and thickness sander with the savings.  If you are not sure, calculate what you need then price billets versus pre-cut planking.   You can then figure the return on investment on the equipment.    Boxwood, be it European or castello, is getting more difficult to find.  When my stock runs out may be looking at Alaskan cedar billets as well.    BTW, Castello is not really a true boxwood but it really is super to work with.

 

Allan

 

 

[Doug Ojai]

Thank you both very much!  Very very big help and I will use all these resources.  Im very sorry for the delay - I kept checking back and did not see any replies but today I just got an email saying there were replies!  Anyway, I do appreciate this.  Let me digest it, as there is quite a bit here.  Originally I was thinking Boxwood, but I discovered that it was not that easy to find and am now considering other woods.  

 

Ill review all this and let you know if I have any other questions.  But I will go and intro myself and follow your suggestions...

[Roger Pellett]

If I were building a J Boat Model I would not buy any planking. I would carve two half models using laminated lifts band sawed to waterline or buttock lines (aka, the bread and butter method). I would then pin and glue the carved halves together. The J Boats were steel or bronze plated with flush seams.  Planking, therefore, does not mimic actual construction and many of the old America’s Cup boats were built from half models so you would be following in the footsteps of the old Naval Architects.  

 

A properly carved hull will result in a highly accurate model.  I have been reading Rob Napier’s new book Caring For Ship Models and most of the old models that have survived have solid hulls;  a few are POF, none are POB.  POB hull construction is a relatively recent phenomena.  Time will tell how long these models will last.

 

Lumber yard select quality pine will make an excellent carved hull.