Proper Technique for Jim Byrnes Saw

[ChrisLBren]

Hi Group,

Hoping to get some tips here.  I know this saw is designed very well, however I am having problems.  I recently replaced both the blade and the belt, and I am still barely able to cut 1/4 inch pear wood with it.  6 inches into the cut it stalls.  I am sure I am doing something wrong here.  Any advice is appreciated.  

 

Thanks to everyone's tips on the thickness sander it now works like a dream - hoping I can figure out the saw.  

[bruce d]

Hello Chris, 

First thought: what blade are you using?

[Jaager]

It sounds like a problem with the distance between the blade and the fence at the rear.

Are you using the new accessory?    Guild Product   Thin Strip Saw Jig

 

Thinking on it, I am guessing that if the rear of the fence is pushing the stock back into the blade, the jig will not remedy that.

[bruce d]

5 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Thinking on it, I am guessing that if the rear of the fence is pushing the stock back into the blade, the jig will not remedy that.

Chris, wise words from Jaaeger. As a test, try putting a credit card (or something similar) between the fence and the wood before the blade: this will eliminate any 'pinch' occurring as the workpiece is passing between the blade and the fence.

 

[druxey]

I agree that the most likely cause is that the fence is not parallel to the blade ahead of the blade. The fence is relieved past the blade by Jim at the factory to allow clearance, so check for parallel. Oh, and always tighten the fence close to you before tightening the screw on the far side of the saw!

[KeithAug]

Chris - A few pictures to illustrate what you are doing would help a lot with diagnosis of the problem. All the above comments are pertinent but to be absolutely sure the photos would help. I regularly rip long lengths of 1/4 inch mahogany using a .032" slitting saw blade. This isn't the easiest of jobs but generally it works fine. I have have to say however that a lot of variables come into play which can undermine the process. These include.

 

- The dryness and type of wood. (Some wood don't cut easily, and some that do cut easily don't always cut easily. I sometimes find switching one piece of wood for another cures the problem).

- The run of the grain ( the grain is rarely parallel with the edge and the blade can try to follow the grain - sometimes cutting from the other end cures the problem ).

- Pressing the wood too hard against the fence ( can cause the plank being cut to progressively thicken (due to blade flexing) - creating a taper effect. Keep the pressure towards the fence positive but light).

 

But as I said earlier - more info would help with the diagnosis.