Smuggler by East Ender - BlueJacket Ship Crafters - 1/4" = 1 foot

[East Ender]

Today I started my second build, Bluejacket's Smuggler. My first build, the Grand Banks Dory was a simple plank of frame build and this being a solid hull, will be a new adventure for me. So studying the plans and reading up on the subject I started by creating the keel template. I scanned and copied the print ensuring that there was no difference in size after printing. When that checked out OK, I carefully cutout the copy of the keel/rabbit detail and laminated it on what I think is Birch, 3/16 thick. Very stiff and straight and checked for accuracy against the print, this is very handy when it becomes to trimming the solid core. No flopping around, just like a yardstick. After ensuring the keel was perfectly flat, I started trimming  the transom with  10" coarse half round and rat tail rasps while always checking the template against the midship tick mark. When the transom had a decent fit, I proceeded to the bow and trimmed for an exact fit using a course rasp, again always cross checking while holding the template firmly against the transom .A final tweak her and there and it fit like a charm. A problem I encountered was the hull moving around in my lap while filing. I did not want it in a vice as sitting in my rocker is a comfortable position for me, as my back has seen better days. What did work, by accident, was a piece of Tempur foam material. No matter what angle your working, the foam holds/cradles the model with out shifting and offers outstanding protection for dings and dents and allows you to file with any pressure you want. Tomorrow I'll finish cutting out the station templates and after finding the centerline, will start fitting them. I'm guessing you just carefully remove material in the general area of each station template one by one, then as the manual says, rasp it smooth connecting the hollows created. Any suggestions are welcome as to how to create those cuts/ depressions with the templates. Cheers, Tim

Edited March 30, 2023 by East Ender
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[East Ender]

Well, I made my first major mistake. When making the templates from the center station aft, I cut them all the same at the rabbit as shown on the print, I then realized my mistake looking at the print. Dummy me.  I forgot to check each template from the rail to the rabbit at each station. The red line clearly shows what I missed. I was wondering why the templates were getting tighter as I worked aft. I was glad I drew all the waterlines on each template. Its all a learning experience. Picked up some Durhams water putty today, looks like I may need some.

[MrBlueJacket]

I would suggest against the Durham's putty - it dries VERY hard and it will be difficult to get a nice feathered edge with the basswood. Instead, try auto glazing putty, bondo, or wall spackle. that's what we use.

 

Nic

[East Ender]

Thanks for the input Nic. Yes, it dries very hard as I have found out. I only had to fill a small section, which sanded/rasped out nicely, mainly up against the bulwarks b/w 8 and 10, so harder is probably better up there. I will use an auto filler as you suggest for a skim coat before sanding and priming. Luckily I realized the problem at Station 10 and stopped all work as I new something was wrong. Today I went over every template again, checking each template on on the half breath and sheer plan to verify correct rabbit vs.rail position from Station 0 through 15. I made the templates out of doubled up heavy duty card stock, but, flex was the problem the more you used the template. So I carefully reinforced each template the craft sticks, checking all the time against the print and making small corrections if needed. Now I have nice, stiff and accurate templates for use without having to make another set. My next model will have metal templates. Does Bluejacket have a favorite spray primer to use? I do not have an airbrush so I need to decide and choose correctly to avoid paint problems down the road. Here is a sample of a stiffened template. Not pretty but fully functional. This one looks off in the photo but its roughly positioned for the photo. The rail and rabbit are solid surface.

 

Edited April 6, 2023 by East Ender
spelling, added correct photo

[East Ender]

Question: I have the port side of the hull faired in nicely to match the templates, but when moving over to the starboard side, it seems the rail on this side is about .100  taller.  Are the rails on this solid hull model off limits to shaving? It seems to be affecting only a few rear stations. The starboard side rail  is about .200  and the port side is about .350 or less to the deck. I have not sanded or cut the rails at any time. The keel rabbit is square as per instructions.  

Edited April 7, 2023 by East Ender

[MrBlueJacket]

The hulls "should" be a little oversized to allow the modeler to bring it down to the  final dimensions.

 

Nic

[East Ender]

On 4/8/2023 at 10:16 AM, MrBlueJacket said:

The hulls "should" be a little oversized to allow the modeler to bring it down to the  final dimensions.

 

Nic

Thanks Nic.  I assume that the top flat surface of the machined rail and the  flat surface rabbit  are to ensure proper placement of the templates and not to be altered. Here are some photos showing Sta. P and "L" (looks like a 7) showing how I cut the templates and how I've shaped the forward part of the hull so far, still not done from Sta P forward. From Sta. 0 forward the templates create a small vertical (notch, as shown in photos) surface off the rabbit then follow the curve of the hull upward from station F  forward.  Am I doing this correctly? Is there anything wrong I'm doing in these photos? Note: The first photo the centerline doesn't appear to line up, it does, l it was just hard to hold the template firmly and photograph. Tim

Edited April 13, 2023 by East Ender
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[MrBlueJacket]

All seems OK. Remember, no-one will take a ruler to your hull and tell you it's 1/32" off !

[ccoyle]

1 hour ago, MrBlueJacket said:

Remember, no-one will take a ruler to your hull and tell you it's 1/32" off !

 

From what I've heard, if it was a plastic model at an IPMS competition, things would be different, but since it's wood and we're not IPMS, you're safe! 👍

[East Ender]

So after two months of searching, I found, by chance, my Dremel MM35 Mutli tool tucked away in that "safe" place that I had put it. In my opinion,this is the tool to have for solid hulls. Perfect weight and balance, at least for me, it can be held with two hands to be very precise. Shaping the hull is now a breeze compared to rasps, sandpaper and the old regular dremel with drum sander. Using 60 grit, it cuts aggressively, but you can control that with light pressure. I originally purchased it to cut the grout in our marble shower, and it performed flawlessly, and it also came with the sanding attachment and various pads.   So any other newbies out there like me attempting a solid hull model should consider one. Almost completed the port side today on Smuggler. You can see the station 8- 10 repair with Durhams, where I found my template mistake, which in turn prompted me to stiffen the templates with craft sticks. This proved to work extremely well and accurate. Durhams is very strong and is extremely hard. Using Bondo if needed here on out with a glaze after priming on low spots. 

Edited April 16, 2023 by East Ender
added photo/content

[East Ender]

I suppose you could call this a major milestone, at least for me. With encouragement from Nic at Bluejacket about the use of Bondo, and epoxy /glue adherence to it. I triple checked the hull today to ensure all the templates which fit snuggly. My only dilemma is how to you position the very last template, the transom. The transom is on an angle and I do not want to overshave the area. Also not sure how much wood to remove on the top deck at the transom, see photo. I masked off the keel rabbet and  primed the hull lightly with Dublicolor red oxide automotive primer and will lightly sand tomorrow and apply some with red lead where needed. Some of the grain was a bit narly in spots. I still need to repair some over cuts on the keel rabbit caused by my hamfisted use of the Dremel tool. I'll use a bit of bondo to reform that area. I've put the Dremel tool away for now as it cuts so fast and gets me in trouble. My second dilemma or perhaps this is normal for a solid hull model, and that is I need to shave the deck down as the bulwarks are not high enough when checked against the print. Why this is, I'm not sure. a I need to cut down at least .100. Here are a few photos of todays progress, and thanks again Nick for your support!

Edited June 1, 2023 by East Ender
spelling

[East Ender]

15 hours ago, East Ender said:

I suppose you could call this a major milestone, at least for me. With encouragement and support from Nic, Mr. Bluejacket, at Bluejacket Shipcrafters about the use of Bondo, and epoxy /glue adherence to it. I triple checked the hull today to ensure all the templates which fit snuggly. My only dilemma is how to you position the very last template, the transom. The transom is on an angle and I do not want to overshave the area. Also not sure how much wood to remove on the top deck at the transom, see photo. I masked off the keel rabbet and  primed the hull lightly with Dublicolor red oxide automotive primer and will lightly sand tomorrow and apply some with red lead where needed. Some of the grain was a bit narly in spots. I still need to repair some over cuts on the keel rabbit caused by my hamfisted use of the Dremel tool. I'll use a bit of bondo to reform that area. I've put the Dremel tool away for now as it cuts so fast and gets me in trouble. My second dilemma or perhaps this is normal for a solid hull model, and that is I need to shave the deck down as the bulwarks are not high enough when checked against the print. Why this is, I'm not sure. a I need to cut down at least .100. Here are a few photos of todays progress, and thanks again Nick for your support!

Not quite sure what to do here

Edited June 1, 2023 by East Ender

[Roger Pellett]

Very nice work!

 

A couple of thoughts from a confirmed solid hull modeler:

 

In looking at the body plan, all but one of the stations are what are known as True Views.  In other words, looking at the plan what you are seeing is the actual shape of the section.  Templates made directly from tracings of these sections will be correct.  

 

The exception to this is the transom.  The view of the transom shown on the lines drawing is usually not a True View as the transom usually raked.  While horizontal dimensions will be correct vertical dimensions will be foreshortened.  The solution to this is an auxiliary view called a Transom Expansion where vertical dimensions are adjusted.

 

These little brass spokeshaves are ideal for shaping carved hulls.  I don’t believe that they are still made but are sometimes available used.

 

Roger

 

[East Ender]

2 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

Very nice work!

 

A couple of thoughts from a confirmed solid hull modeler:

 

In looking at the body plan, all but one of the stations are what are known as True Views.  In other words, looking at the plan what you are seeing is the actual shape of the section.  Templates made directly from tracings of these sections will be correct.  

 

The exception to this is the transom.  The view of the transom shown on the lines drawing is usually not a True View as the transom usually raked.  While horizontal dimensions will be correct vertical dimensions will be foreshortened.  The solution to this is an auxiliary view called a Transom Expansion where vertical dimensions are adjusted.

 

These little brass spokeshaves are ideal for shaping carved hulls.  I don’t believe that they are still made but are sometimes available used.

 

Roger

 

Thank your compliment and information Roger. I'm going to research Transom Expansion. I've looked into the miniature spoke shaves as well as the old Stanley 75 rabbet plane and the Stanley 100/1/2 model builders plane. Yes, I'm sure these spokeshaves would have made the job easier. They will help on my next solid hull, I will not start one until I have a set. This was my first solid hull. and I've learned a lot, especially of what not to do. I do need to improve on my layout skills. 

Edited June 1, 2023 by East Ender

[East Ender]

Roger, just watched a video on transom expansion. Now I get it. Skewed perspective and laying out a transom, inboard and outboard.  Going out to the shop to study the print and give it a go. I doubt it but I'm wondering if Bluejacket has already accounted for this on Smuggler and the transom just needs cleaning up. Perhaps Mr.Bluejacket could weigh in? Thanks.

Edited June 1, 2023 by East Ender
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[MrBlueJacket]

Yes, the plans are done to the proper perspective.

 

Nic

[East Ender]

Sanded down the first few coasts of primer on the hull again, used a little red lead, made the repairs to the keel with Bondo where I accidentally overcut. Bondo is now my friend. I'll let the primer cure a day or so then I'll start on the bulwarks. I ordered a surface gauge to mark the waterline and and all of the other details on the side of the hull. I also located my old Grumman drill bushings which should help me be accurate with drilling holes for the masts, at least with the pilot holes. The rudder post/drilling looks like a critical set up.

Edited June 6, 2023 by East Ender

[East Ender]

Checking the waterline against the print all the way around with a surface gauge. (Top of tape is MLW) 

Edited June 7, 2023 by East Ender
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