Preparing fresh wood

[Javelin]

Hi, 

I have some serious branches of pear and apple trees in my backyard (more or less freshly cut) and would like to know how to prepare it for modelling use. 

 

- Do I first de-bark it? 

- Do I dry it first (in original branch form or cut up in shorter lengths?)

- Do I just cut it in slices and let it dry that way? Removing bark after drying? 

- Any known sequence/additional info is welcome

 

It's the first time I've cut larger branches and I don't want to let them go to waste.

[Jaager]

The first step is to seal the cut ends.  What you use is not critical.  Hot paraffin, shellac,  old varnish,  old paint - oil based is probably better.  Thick - the object is to make it difficult for the water to get out at open ends of the tubes that are wood.  Different rates water migration produce stress = splitting and checking

 

Length:  that depends on you - close to the longest that you use on your bench - a tad more to account for loss from seasoning.

De-bark:  now if you have the patience.   It allows the water easier egress.  It removes the eggs and larvae of wood borers. 

A draw knife or spoke shave makes a quick job of it if the branch is secured from moving.

The old rule is one year per inch of thickness to reach water concentration equilibrium. 

I would aim at ~2" thickness and 2 foot length for my system.

Seal the ends NOW.

 

Wood can do ugly things as it dries,  splits and checks ate the worse-  bow and twist is not helpful -

Protect for the elements - no rain or snow - direct sun = uneven drying

good air flow around all sides = sticker the rick

Serious downward pressure - weights on top of the rick may reduce twist and bow

 

 

[Bob Cleek]

There's an excellent instructional piece on preparing your own grown wood for modeling use in the NRG's Ship Modeler's Shop Notes, Volume II, I believe, but if you don't have it, buy both volumes and it will be in one of them. A couple of invaluable modeling books and, in terms of bang for your buck, a very good investment. Get them from the NRG online store or used off eBay.

Edited July 11, 2023 by Bob Cleek

[Roger Pellett]

I second Bob’s recommendation.  The books are well worth the price and contain the collective knowledge of NRG members in the years before MSW.  The original volume I was bound like a paperback book and after a while the pages fall out.  More recently the Guild republished Volume I using the spiral bound system.  If you buy the book on eBay make sure that it’s the spiral bound version.  Volume II was originally published using the spiral wound system.

 

Roger

[Bob Cleek]

6 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

I second Bob’s recommendation.  The books are well worth the price and contain the collective knowledge of NRG members in the years before MSW.  The original volume I was bound like a paperback book and after a while the pages fall out.  More recently the Guild republished Volume I using the spiral bound system.  If you buy the book on eBay make sure that it’s the spiral bound version.  Volume II was originally published using the spiral wound system.

 

Roger

And all th is time I thought I was the only one who was frustrated by the original paperback volume one binding with the pages that fall out. When I got the second volume with the spiral binding that allows you to lay the book flat on your workbench when using it as a reference, I seriously entertained taking my volume one down to the local chain stationary store and having it spiral-bound, as well. One of those things on my list of "probably-never-will-get-around-tuits," though.