Kate Cory by Capt. Kelso (Quint) - Model Shipways - 3/16" scale - Whaling Brig

[Capt. Kelso]

Bought this kit along with a set of plans from New Bedford Whaling Museum many years ago and finally decided to build it. I saw the kit listed in the first Model Shipways catalog I received in 1986 when I was considering the hobby. I decided on a starting with their KATY, 1/4" scale Virginia Pilot Boat. Since then, I have built several other kits along with my other hobby interests. However, completing the Kate Cory has always been one of my primary ship modeling goals.

Unlike the Charles W. Morgan, there is not a great deal of historical documentation available regarding this specific ship. The New Bedford Whaling Museum, New Bedford, Ma. (USA) is the only resource I could find that offered credible documentation. This is where I obtained plans by Erik Ronnberg, Jr. which provide significantly more details and views then the kit plans. Additionally, I obtained copies of the Nautical Research Journals referenced in the Model Shipways Catalog regarding Coppering techniques, i.e., "Copper Sheathing of Whaleships", etc. I coppered two other kits using this technique and feel it provides a more realistic appearance. However, one could argue using this process without some weathering of the rest of the model is inconsistent.

Despite all the research and obtaining all the documentation I could find, I still felt I needed a good visual representation of the ship. Finally, a key motivating factor for me to starting the project was the 1/4" scratch-built model by Thomas J. Lauria, (https://tjlauria.com/gallery/whaling-schooner-kate-cory/). Tom has many other excellent builds and has been helpful answering my questions.

This will be a planked solid hull model. I've never built a plank on frame kit other than a small Dory. Then only other change from the kit is to swap out the solid wood whale boats for a set of updated laser cut boats.

[ccoyle]

I started this kit many years ago, but only got as far as the decking before I decided I wasn't happy with my work up to that point, plus I also kinda fell out of love with solid hulls. Nevertheless, the kit makes a beautiful model for those who finish it, and I'll be wishing you well as I follow along on your project.

 

Cheers!

[Capt. Kelso]

Finishing the deck planking. The instructions note, "on all whalers the main deck was covered with a pine sheathing in order to withstand the wear and tear of the cutting in process, the planking was somewhat wider than the deck plank and was usually holy stoned bright". I have confirmed this was done on Kate Cory but not all whalers. Unlike the main deck, the quarter deck planks are laid parallel to the waterway and not the centerline.

I used individual strips for planking the quarter deck and a piece of scribed decking for the main deck which will then be covered with scale 1"x12" wood strips to represent the pine sheathing. The pine sheathing extends to the portion near the bow with the white cut out. I felt it was necessary to add the bottom main deck planking, despite the fact that it will not be seen, to maintain the scale measurements of the bulwarks. Also, I wanted to make sure the plank sheer matches with the level of the waterways.

As I was planning out adding the pine sheathing for the main deck, I realized I'll need to add the waterways first as there is a small gap between the pine sheathing and waterways for the scuppers.

Another issue I have been trying to resolve is the correct color of the waterways, bulwarks and deck structures. The instructions reference using "medium green" paint and grey. Well, define medium green? There is no historical standard and the only reference I could find was a "verdigris color" paint which is sort of the color of oxidized copper being used. Also, New Bedford Whaling Museum offers a print of Kate Cory which includes greenish blue color for the structures and bulwarks. From my perspective using a medium green paint, which tends to be darker in scale, would not be practical. Especially on a working whale ship. Floquil Paints had a line of historical Marine Colors, which included verdigris. Fortunately, I still have the color chart and will try to match it.

[Wawona59]

Hi Capt Kelso.  Beautiful start on your Kate Cory project.  I'll be following along if you don't mind.  I don't think you can go wrong with the plans by A.R Ronnberg Jr. Everything I've seen of his is first rate.  Tom Lauria's web site and YouTube channel is also a great resource for your Kate Cory project. When you get to that point, you might also want to check out his video on scale effect.  All of his videos are well worth the time.

 

I wish you the best on your project.

[Capt. Kelso]

Thanks John. I've corresponded with Tom Lauria previously regarding his Kate Cory and schooner Benjamin Latham, always helpful.

[Capt. Kelso]

Finished much of the bulwarks and various railings. Used my new Mini Dremel on the pin rails, great tool! I was amazed at how accurate it is, very little vibration, made the task easy. Putting in the gangway was more challenging than expected, plans were somewhat hard to interpret. But it adds a nice detail.

I was struggling with the shade of "green color paint" to use on the bulwarks and deck structures. Fortunately, Tom Lauria shared some helpful information on mix ratio's he used for his 1/4" scale build (you can find Tom's build on YouTube). I use only enamel or out of production Floquil paints and after some trial and error feel I have a decent period color representation.

As I progress with the build and anticipating next steps, I have found the kit plans are lacking in detail. I am continually reviewing the plans from New Bedford Whaling Museum as well as the two books noted in my initial post. Interestingly, both sets of plans were drawn by E A. Ronnberg Jr.
whaling historian.

My next step will be coppering the hull. I plan to use a "checkerboard" appearance. It is a tedious process involving attaching individual plates. First the copper is heated to produce variations in color, "yellow metal". The term used to describe the color of the copper plates during that period. This will be my second attempt using this process, my first was 25 years ago, Model Shipways Eagle. It's nice to have something to compare with and note area's "needing improvement". I'll add more background about this process in my next post.

[Capt. Kelso]

Started coppering the hull. This is a very tedious and time-consuming process, especially preparing the plates. There are many posts regarding "how to" but they basically involve using copper tape. This process involves applying individual plates.

For reference material I have books and copies of NRJ articles as noted in my prior posts. These are in addition to plans from New Bedford whaling Museum. The color of the plating is a modelers choice, I choose a dullish color similar to "yellow metal" or" Muntz metal" because after the early 1830's a composite zinc/copper mixture metal was used, Kate Cory was built in 1856. The reference material also contains a comparison of how copper plating was manufactured and stored which also impacted the color, dull versus today's bright color copper used on yachts for example.

I made a template from .020 plastic stock to mark the belts. To prepare the plates, first remove the adhesive from the copper tape by soaking the tape with backing attached in a jar of lacquer thinner. Once the backing became loose, wipe the adhesive off the tape with a clean cloth. Then, back in a jar of clean thinner. After the second cleaning, pass the tape over a heat source, I use a small candle to dull the color. This process will not produce a uniform color effect!

Next, start cutting, these plates are 1/4" x 3/4" which is close in scale (with overlap) to the 14" x 48" plates used on the Kate Cory. I estimate I cut approximately 400 plates. Once the plates were cut, back in the jar for cleaning, remove fingerprints, etc... Excluding prep time, I've spent 4 hours applying plates, long way to go. Once the adhesive sets, I'll smooth out the plates.

 

[Capt. Kelso]

Finished coppering the hull and then mounted on a temporary base. It is important not to use a cradle as it will damage the plates. The thin wood strip is a "wood guard" added at the water line as noted in the Whaling Museum plans. Next step is to finish the rudder, hinges, and give the copper a good cleaning before airbrushing a coat of Dullcote lacquer.

This stage of the build was very time consuming and I am anxious to start on the deck structures