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    Beach Park, IL and Eastport, ME
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    Retired from career in construction engineering.

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  1. A question about your planks: Is the shape of an individual plank the same from stem to midship and from midship to stern? Love your build. Trying to figure out this new emoji thing to give a “like”.
  2. Just a tip I found useful : Several of those double blocks eventually have buntlines run thru them. I found it very useful to run a few temporary lengths of line thru those blocks now which can later be used to reeve the buntlines ... running them later, once your mast is mounted, the yard hung below, and shrouds and stays supporting the mast are in place, is a really tough access puzzle.
  3. One side appears vertical , and the opposite side at a slight angle: I wonder why. Would the angled side add stability while rowing and the vertical side allowed more foot room? Perhaps the angled side on the chest in front of a rower provided a better foot brace?
  4. Are you planning to overlap the shields ( obscuring most of the colored strakes) or have them tangent to one another ( in which case the colored strakes will peak between them, as in the model in the pic above)?
  5. Mike Bryan: I’m just curious ... perhaps I missed something. Given the plan you show, how do you go from that to drawings of the contours of the hull?
  6. I vote for oarsmen seated on ribs. If the relationship between the oar-ports and the ribs is correct, then the oar is level ( or close to level) with the rower’s shoulders, giving him a much more powerful, more efficient stroke. Also, the head and shoulders are better protected from wind/weather/projectiles by the height of the gunnels. I anticipate that it’s more likely that he would also have something to firmly brace his feet against, than if seated on a chest on deck. All just IMHO.
  7. Outstanding work on that planking. Getting it right at the bow and stern is really challenging. Very good looking.
  8. Now things are getting funky. Lesson #3: Soldering is a tricky skill. Two brass discs were furnished in the kit to serve as the deck above the lower tower, and below the light room. Several brass pins with loops, and some brass wire ( about 28 ga), were furnished to create railings around the perimeter of the two decks. Here I have soldered the stanchions to the brass deck. Clearly, I am using a torch. But, I couldn’t figure out how to solder the railing to the stanchions. Also, I thought that In soldering these pieces together the heat would compromise the already s
  9. I debated with myself about completing this build log and procrastinated long enough that I came to the conclusion that I owed it to those who follow and who have shown enough interest to comment that I need to complete a build log for this. I spend a lot of time looking at other’s logs, and am disappointed when they just die without finishing. I learn so much from others. So, there seems a bit of obligation outstanding on my part. So, on the theory that we learn from mistakes, and might also learn vicariously from the mistakes of others, I offer the following log of mistakes and dis
  10. Just a suggestion: I found the jig in this build log listed below very useful. Even using the jig, with the keel and frames quite plumb and square, aligning some of the planks from one frame to another was a challenge. Nice color choice. Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale
  11. I love that kit! So glad to see a couple people are building it. It has been around awhile, and the thing I like about it is, since Dapper Tom was not a real ship, a modeler can do whatever he wants to the details, and nobody can say it’s wrong! I got mine as a partial complete build on eBay ( the hull had been sanded) and loved building her ( I re-christened her Quoddy Bay, after the bay we have a house on in Maine, to commemorate the privateers/ pirates who sailed there) I like that kit so much , I got another partial build on eBay, and one more on sale from Modelexpo). The first kit I
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