Srodbro

Welcome. Lots of great modeling advice in these forums ( with the possible exception of the following paragraphs). I built plastic models as a kid, and when I was approaching retirement returned to the hobby. My first wooden ship model was Yankee Hero by Blue Jacket. I started with it primarily because I wanted a ship model for our place in Eastport, and an Eastport Pinky seemed a good choice. I found it was a good starter kit: Solid hull ( no planking), simple rigging, good advice on modeling techniques, and very good directions for a beginner (some more advanced kits have instructions that assume the builder has a lot of experience and knowledge of nautical terminology; and old kit I got on eBay had a total of one typewritten page). Next I resurrected a 50-year old partial complete plastic Constitution from the attic, and completed the rigging. Since then, moving away from plastic (which in no way is to denigrate plastic modeling) I’ve done the New Bedford Whaleboat, Dory, Fannie Gorham,We’re Here, Dapper Tom, Wyoming (scratch built half hull), Fra Berlanga (scratch half-hull half model) and currently working on a scratch build of US Brig Lawrence ( based on Model Shipways Niagara drawings). Clearly, I prefer solid hull work (my Lawrence is the only planked model, and that is plank-on-solid hull). Early on it seemed that an inordinate amout of forum discussion revolved around planking on frame or bulkhead problems, so I determined to avoid those. I don’t think that doing so has short-changed me on the pleasures of the hobby, but who knows, I might head in that direction some time. Which is not to say solid hull work is without irs challenges, as well. Following Mr BlueJacket’s build log of the Red Jacket kit will give a fair idea of solid hull work. One last bit of advice ... complete one or two simple builds before crowding your closet with unbuilt kits, as many of us do. Have fun.

Bob Cleek: ”Acoating of white shellac is an excellent sealer for model parts.” When would one apply the shellac? Must be after planking, since we need moisture in the planks to form to the hull ( less so for a deck). But, If after planking, which is after adding blocking between ribs, how does sealer get to the underside of the plank? The blocking should be coated as well, before planking? Or, is the idea that you seal as much as you can , and continue to hope?

Don’t Go Breaking My Heart ... Elton John

Over There ... George M. Cohan

Jack: regarding rigging ... I found this an invaluable reference when I built my Fra Berlanga refrigerated ship FM 55-17 Chapter 3, Ships Gear and Rigging Procedures https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/55-17/ch3.htm

Back in the Saddle Again ... Gene Autrey

Lightning Strikes ... Lou Christy

In My Room ... Brian Wilson

Soul Man ... Rotary Connection

I agree with all said above, especially if you’re new to modeling ... incomplete kits can be very frustrating. But I’ll offer one exception that the old kits provided that newer ones don’t: Some of the old kits had solid hulls made of really good wood .. very dense, straight grain a pleasure to work with hand tools. Not sure if it was old growth pine or southern yellow pine, but was really nice stuff. Found two Dapper Tom kits on eBay from late ‘50s early ‘60s. The rest of the wood was pretty much junk (warped dowels, splintery planks) and castings with white powder corrosion product on them, and discolored and rotting rigging thread. So, I too would stay away from “vintage” kits, unless trying to win the lottery and find a solid hull that can take a beautiful finish.

Sail Away — Randy Newman

White Room — Cream

River Deep-Mountain High Tina Turner

Boy Named Sue ... Johnny Cash

Born to be Wild — Steppenwolf