HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne by SighingDutchman - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[SighingDutchman]

This is going to be my fourth model, but it is going to be a step up from the very simple ones I have built so far. Of those, two, namely a rowing boat and a yakatbune (Japanese houseboat) did not even have masts and the remaining one, a ship's boat, had very simple rigging. In terms of hull planking, these kits were also very simple. It is time to try something slightly more complex - even though Vanguard classifies this model as one for novice builders. Given the simplicity of my earlier builds, I still very much feel like a novice and because this model offers both plank on frame construction and a step up in rigging complexity, but also comes with instructions aimed at a beginning builder, this looks like an ideal fourth build for me.

 

Having ordered the kit last weekend, I was surprised to already receive it today (Tuesday, so only two days later). I was also surprised by the quality of the kit; even though I had heard and read great things about Vanguard kits, I was still extremely impressed with the materials and the fantastic instruction booklet and (19!) plan sheets. I could not wait to start building and was soon equally impressed with the design and the precision of the fit of the laser cut parts. It is already clear to me that this is going to be an immensely enjoyable build.

 

The first step of the build is, unsurprisingly, to assemble the internal structure of the ship. What is great about how this works in this kit is that it is not simply a matter of glueing a set of frames into a keel but that, instead, many strengthening elements are included in the structure as well, both ones which run parallel to the keel as ones that run parallel to the frames. Furthermore, two layers of (false) decks are included to provide yet another axis of stability. Everything slots wonderfully together, and the result (see below) is a very strong three dimensional structure, which will form a great basis for the hull planking and the ship as a whole. Now I just need to let the glue dry thoroughly, and it is already time to start planking, something which I still have little experience with and which I am both looking forward to and dreading a little bit ...

[ccoyle]

I feel like I should receive some sort of merit badge for having completed the original Sherbourne! 😉 Enjoy your project!

[Pitan]

Oh, another Vanguard Sherbourne!

I found that the plank woods bend nicely with water, just take your time and get it right.
You probably do want to bend in three dimensions - up-down, around the hull (especially the bow), and apply twist.

The twist is hardest to get, especially around the bow.
I found heat helped a lot. Both PVA and Titebond soften with heat, but will grab again as they cool.

[SighingDutchman]

Thanks for the tips, Robert. And for the encouragement, Chris

[SighingDutchman]

In my last post I wrote that I was now (physically, mentally perhaps less so) ready for first planking, but in my enthusiasme/dread I forgot that, of course, I needed to fair the frames and install the (central part of the) keel first. So I did that yesterday, resulting in the two pictures below. I hope i faired enough, because there is still some laser burn showing, particularly on the frame closest to the stern of the ship, as is clearly visible in the second picture. But I felt that if I took off more there, it would impair the natural run of the planks, and I would need to take off a lot more from the frames preceding it. So I think I will leave it as such.

 

I really liked the way Chris designed the keel, as it slots nicely into a couple of strategically left-open slits in the hull frame assembly, thus allowing for secure glueing into place. In the only other true plank-on-frame model I made, the keel was only installed after all the planks had been fitted, making for (a) poor fit of the keel to the rest of the assembly and (b) difficulties in the planking, particularly at the bow, as it was difficult to secure the planks there, more so since it was a single-planked hull so I could not use any pins.

 

In terms of planking, I am going to follow the instructions in the kit to the letter, which means I will be securing the first planking with temporary pins. I know that not everyone agrees this is good practice, some members of this forum prefering to use clamps only. But on my previous plank-on-frame build, which only had one level of planking as I wrote above, I could also only use clamps and that made the whole process quite slow, as I had to let every row of planks dry fully for a day or so, before being able to put on the next row. I hope that using pins will speed the process up. But if I am missing the mark here, I would be very happy to be corrected. As I have made clear, I am quite daunted by the planking stage of the build, and welcome any advice!

[wvdhee]

Nothing wrong with using pins for first planking imho.

[Pitan]

On 4/12/2024 at 9:31 AM, SighingDutchman said:

But I felt that if I took off more there, it would impair the natural run of the planks, and I would need to take off a lot more from the frames preceding it. So I think I will leave it as such.

Looking at images of my own build, the frames and keel doubler (cheeks? name?) looked very like yours.
I might have reduced more of the final (transom/stern?) frame, but then, every build is different.

 

Edited April 13 by Pitan

[Pitan]

p.s there isn't much space for bulldog/folder clip clamps on this kit - I did experiment, but the lower deck blocks the first few rows.

[SighingDutchman]

In the last two days, I attached the bulwark patterns - see pictures below.

What you are seeing here is actually the result of my second attempt to attach the patterns, after my first one being a failure, despite the kit instructions clearly stating "We recommend that these parts are dry fitted several times to ensure correct positioning". In my first attempt, I left a gap at the bow, on both sides. This not only resulted in an offset between the bulkheads and the lines on the pattern indicating those bulkheads but, more importantly, it resulted in too blunt a shape at the bow. This in turn would have resulted in a bad fit with the planking running up to the bulwark patterns, as well as with the laser-cut gunwales. So, there was really no choice but to carefully remove the bulwark patterns, using isopropyl alcohol to weaken the PVA glue, and to try again. I decided to use medium viscosity cyanoacrylate at the bow, to ensure that I would have tight fit there this time.

I have one slight worry: at the starboard side, there is a gap at the top between the the bulwark patterns and the (temporary) bulkhead 'tops' which are supposed to 'guide' them - see detail picture below. But I don't think that is going to cause any issues down the line, as these temporary tops are going to be removed later, and the shape of the bulwark patterns is still close enough to that of the laser-cut gunwales (I checked). So, I decided not to remove and re-fit the bulwark patterns a second time, also because I fear I will end up damaging them, as I already did some slight damage to them during the first removal.

 

[SighingDutchman]

PS Thanks, Robert for your helpful comments on faring and clamping for this kit.

[chris watton]

For the ply bulwarks patterns, what I do now is to clamp into position, make any minor adjustents that are needed, and once I am happy with the fit, I brush on watered down PVA all along the contact areas. This method seems to work very well, and will recommend it in my next kit.

[SighingDutchman]

Thanks, Chris. Will use that method on my next (Vanguard, of course!) build.

[SighingDutchman]

Have not had time to work on my this build in the past two weeks or so, but I did have time to think about how to make planking easier for myself, and came up with a few ideas to try out. However, I don't want to try them out on this (nice) kit, and have therefore started a new build of a different kit I had lying around (build log here). After I have tested/improved my planking techniques on that build, I will report on them here and, employ them on the Sherbourne. This may take one or two weeks though.