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Posted

Hi All,

Lower Channel update....

 

I began by pinning the Fore Lower Channels to the Hull, easy enough.

I then decided to make s Mock-Up, (Prototype), the Channels to fit the Chainplates. (I had already drawn this out....)

As per my Drawing, the Chainplates were too short, esp. the Backstay Chainplates.

Regarding the Backstay Chainplate with respect to the Lower Channels, the slot that I would have to cut in the Lower Channel to accept the Chainplate would leave about 1.5mm thickness where the Channel meets the Hull, far too thin.

 

The kit utilizes a 2.0mm thick strip mounted on the Lower Rub Rail to simulate the Lower Channels.

 

I now have to choose the way forward:

  • Not really keen to construct/replace the Chainplates
  • Lower Channels are not designed for this kit
  • Not 100% accurate to leave Lower Channels off
  • Photo, (On Box), looks just fine without Lower Channels
  • Pushing ahead with Lower Channels risks breakages
  • KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid

Finally, what am I building this for? It is something that I enjoy, not a gift or presentation.

My decision to omit the Lower Channels may upset some who are following this thread but that's just the way it is, constraints of the kit, engineering/design do not allow for modification.

 

So, in conclusion, this model will be "Devoid" of Lower Channels

I have tried and prototyped to install these items; I have to admit a small defeat....

 

With this attempt out of the way, I can concentrate on mounting/positioning Chainplates with only Upper Channels.

 

In saying all of the Above, I will most probably install a 1.0mm strip on the lower Rub Rail where the Channel would have been, this will assist in Marking and positioning individual Chainplates and will be more in keeping to the kit design.

 

Onward!! Many more challenges ahead.... 🙂

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

 

 

DSC_0174.jpg

DSC_0175.jpg

DSC_0176.jpg

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Posted
On 11/29/2025 at 2:03 AM, hof00 said:

took the plunge and purchased a X Y Table and Clamping Vise

 

I like that table.  Maybe it's time for me to go shopping.

 

Your ship is looking great!  She has a very "authentic" and natural look.

 

Ron

Posted

Sorry to hear the lower channels didn't work out for you...though I do see them used in your mock-up.   I'm still not clear on how they are trouble for you....but to each his own.  Each modeler is guided by the level of authenticity they are able to tackle.  Personally, I draw the line at being a purist, by being captive to only using wood for the construction of my models.  I use whatever suites me.  Knowing full well that a good coat of paint will disguise whatever sacrilegious material I employed.

 

Your model is stellar and you have constructed her skillfully.

 

Rob

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

Posted
6 hours ago, uscharin said:

 

I like that table.  Maybe it's time for me to go shopping.

 

Your ship is looking great!  She has a very "authentic" and natural look.

 

Ron

Thanks Ron,

I'm trying my best, my first at 1/96.... Tolerances are much "Tighter." 🙂

Yup, the "Table" has already proved its worth, edge drilling 1.5mm Lower Channels, even though they will not be used.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Posted
4 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Sorry to hear the lower channels didn't work out for you...though I do see them used in your mock-up.   I'm still not clear on how they are trouble for you....but to each his own.  Each modeler is guided by the level of authenticity they are able to tackle.  Personally, I draw the line at being a purist, by being captive to only using wood for the construction of my models.  I use whatever suites me.  Knowing full well that a good coat of paint will disguise whatever sacrilegious material I employed.

 

Your model is stellar and you have constructed her skillfully.

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

Thank you very kindly for your comments, much appreciated.

I'll go with what I am comfortable with and with what "Prototyping" shows me.

Even though not 100% I am hopeful the finished result will be acceptable. 🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Posted

Fantastic job! 

"The journey of a thousand miles is only the beginning of a thousand journeys!"

 

 

 

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All,

Small update, no photos as yet.

I have been struggling with the Chainplates for some time.

I have decided to put the kit supplied parts in the "Too much trouble" basket and manufacture my own.

This has the possibility of Lower Channels "Back in play" and this is what I am working towards.... (I am pleased that I kept these....)

 

I have had many E-Mails with Daniel from Dusek Models to ascertain if he had replacements for Flying Cloud. (As it happens, he does, and they are an improvement in the form of Laser cut Aluminum.)

I am still keeping my options open here, Daniel will review the Shipping cost in a couple of weeks but mentioned to me that the Shipping would probably be around 60.00 Euro.

Hats' off to Daniel thus far for his efforts and Customer Service!!

 

Tomorrow will be more "Experimenting" with Chainplates, and I'll post photos of development ideas in a few days.

 

BTW All the best for everyone in 2026!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Posted

Really think you should add the lower channels as this is historically correct, even if it means remaking the chain plates.  If you don’t, I think you will always regret not adding them when you had the chance.

Beautiful model!!

Rick

Posted
On 1/2/2026 at 2:56 PM, Rick310 said:

Really think you should add the lower channels as this is historically correct, even if it means remaking the chain plates.  If you don’t, I think you will always regret not adding them when you had the chance.

Beautiful model!!

Rick

Hi Rick,

Thank you for your kind comments and advice, appreciated. 🙂

 

I have started my Chainplate manufacturing process, ("Prototyping"), and have rescued my already constructed Lower Channels.

Quite correct, I could not live with the kit Chainplates, they just did not look correct at all.

(I had pinned the Fore Starboard-Side kit Chainplates, no good at all.)

 

I have viewed your Flying Fish build on more than one occasion to see how you have done the Chainplate/Channel construction.

 

I am utilizing 0.6mm Copper wire to form both the Deadeye Strop and Chainplate, pinch the wire together around the Deadeye and draw the wire, (Straight), together to form the Chainplate and run solder along the joint. (Chainplate)

The only downside is no articulated Deadeye strop.

 

Thus far I have almost completed the Fore Chainplates.

I decided to use Copper wire as it is much more malleable especially around 3.0mm Deadeyes. (I did experiment with 0.6mm annealed Brass wire.)

 

So, that's the state of affairs at the mo. and I'll get some photos when I have something to show for my time. 🙂

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Posted (edited)

Hi Rick, Et All,

I have taken a few photos to hopefully illustrate the method to the madness.... 🙂

 

At this time, I am concentrating on manufacture of the Chainplates and have not as yet "Notched" the lower Channels, nor have I Blackened/Filed/Drilled/Tweaked the Chainplates, so, you will have to imagine them fixed in place under the Lower Channel.

Yes, the Chainplates are long at the mo., this will give me something to hold while "Manipulating."

 

A big advantage, the Deadeyes sit "Flat" on the Channel, no nasty gap and in line.

 

The method seems to work, a bit of time but very cheap, the wire was harvested from a bit of heavy electrical flex that I have in my Garage.

The solder is 3% Silver, 1% Copper and 96% Tin with a "No Clean" Flux Paste. (I just have to be careful not to "Flame" the Deadeye. 🙂)

 

Cheers.... HOF.

 

 Photos:

 

 

DSC_0275.jpg

DSC_0276.jpg

DSC_0282.jpg

DSC_0283.jpg

DSC_0284.jpg

DSC_0285.jpg

Edited by hof00

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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