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Niagara by Gyber - Model Shipways


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Hi Folks:  I've been out of the ship modeling game for a bit now - too much work and then needing to care for my mother.  Imagine my surprise to see a blank slate on the old site.  Thank goodness!  Thinking about all the mistakes I made and the silly things I said, I am glad to be starting over.  

 

I started the MS Niagara as my first kit after my dad passed away.  It was sort of a reminder of him to be working on the kit. We sailed a lot together on Lake Erie, and the Niagara seemed like a fitting work to be sitting (eventually) on the mantle.  Never did I think that I would come to like the hobby in-and-of itself. But I did: partly in thanks to this forum.

 

Anyway, I'm back to working on the kit, and here are a few pictures to get re-started...  Robert (note the new user name.)

 

 

 

 

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Initially I thought it not worth the effort to reconstitute the log.  However, I had definitely wanted  to print off the build log and put it next to the finished (hope it will be finished at some point) model.  So here goes the effort at reconstitution.

 

I downloaded the text from Google using the cache feature.  It does not include photos, but I should have most of these still on my hard drive.  It will take a bit of time to get the old stuff back.  

 

+++++

 

 

Model Ship World -> Build logs for kits


#1: STATIC: Brig Niagara, Model Shipways Kit Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 8:22 pm

 

This is my first attempt at a ship kit, though as a child I did attempt several Scientific kit models: one of the Yacht America , and a failed attempt at a clipper (it did however float nicely in the bathtub.) Suffice it to say that my woodworking skills at the time were not up to the challenge, especially as this was before laser cut parts - not to mention that the quality of the wood left something to be desired. 

 

I decided to do a build of the remainder of the Niagara construction. Sorry that I did not take pictures of the early days. I thought a log that focuses on rigging might be interesting, and I hope that I can use it to learn from everyone a bit more quickly than I could do on my own. As well, I hope that other beginners such as myself can benefit from my struggles, mistakes, and (hopefully) eventual success. 

I pick this log up at the final deck fitting stage. I've completed most of the deck structures, hatches, gratings, capstan, and pin rails. Here are some pictures from this weekend's labor of making the ship ladders, and the forward fife rail. 

 

ladder1.jpg

Description:    

Here is the jig I used for constructing the simple ladders for Niagara. Not much to say about it, other than the wood I used was too soft, and I had a bit of a problem with it falling apart.

 

ladder2.jpg

 Description:    

...here I've added the four rungs to the jig

 

ladder3.jpg

 Description:    

Completed ladders. I may add a top step as this is shown in the plans, but it seems unnecessary to me, as the rail acts as a convenient next step for my imaginary crew.


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 Description:    

Fife rail construction. Initially I put pins into the bottom of each leg, but I removed them later, and may dowel them rather than pin them for added strength.


fife_rail.jpg

 Description:    

forward fife rail with wood stain and belaying pins added. I added two dowels to the fore and aft legs. I hope they may come in handy for blocks for running rigging.

 

#2:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:40 am

    —

Welcome to the forum Robert. As a new modeler I can tell you this is a GREAT place to learn, find ideas, discuss questions and, very importantly, recieve encouragement. I love the Brig Niagara and will one day build it. I live near the west basin of lake Erie near an island called South Bass Island where Perry fought the battle for the War of 1812. For this reason the Brig is important to me. This weekend the real Brig will be at South Bass Island. I am going to go and take pictures. If you would like them let me know. If there is anything you are specifically interested in for your model let me know and I will take a picture of it for you. BTW here is a link for the real ship (well IT too is a replacement of the original) http://www.brigniagara.org/. 


You have a nice start on your model so keep it up.


#3: Niagara Photos Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 4:58 am

    —

Thanks for the offer David. I don't have anything I can think of off hand. No doubt, I will think of something after your trip! I grew up in Cleveland, and have many fond memories of sailing on Lake Erie - never on as big a "boat" as the Brig Niagara however. One of the reasons I picked this model, was to remember the area I grew up in, and also to remind me of my Dad (now passed on) and our sailing days on the lake. 

 

I've not had the fortune to see the Brig sail by in person, but it makes quite an impression in the pictures I've seen. Thanks for the link by the way. 

 

Regards, Robert

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Thank you all for the replies.

 

#4: Work on Caronade Carriages Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:27 pm

    —


I started work on the caronade carriages, of which there will be 18 complete caronades when done. I've been dreading this task, as there is a lot of small metal work that needs doing. I primed and painted the pedestals and the carriages, and started adding tackle rings. I tried painting on the metal plate that is at the front of each carriage. I'm not sure I like what I did, so I will need to figure out a better approach. I'm not sure I have the skills to make it from metal. 


Next I tried my hand at the breach plate with ring. I made two to see if I can consistently make them. They are pictured below. I made them from a fine brass rectangular rod, punched the end, and drilled out an eye. The ring is made from fine brass wire which I spiraled into a spring shape, and cut to make rough rings. Once they were placed through the eye, I closed the ring and soldered it shut. Then filed it, and blackened it with blackening solution. Once roughly trimmed, I filed a grove in the carriage and super glued the breach plate to the carriage. Once dried, I filed the plate smooth with the underside of the carriage. 


Is there a better way to do this? I just have 35 more to make! Naturally, I dropped one, and immediatly lost it. Probably I will need to make two for every one that gets on the carriage. 

 

Robert 

 

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 Description:    Caronade carriages and pedistals

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Ring added and soldered. Just prior to dipping the end of the rod into blackening solution

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Filing the grove

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Finished breach plate with ring

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#5:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 8:43 pm

    —

Robert, I just zspent the afternoon on the Niagara. She is beautiful. I took lots of pictures. I will edit them tomorrow and post some if yoiu like. Just learned that next summere there will be 5 tall ships sailing the Great Lakes


#6: static brig niagara model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:11 pm

    —

Robert. 


You are doing very neat and precise work.keep it up  David. 

 

Yes I for one would like to see a selection of your photos. 

 

Regards 

Ken

 

#7: Niagara pictures Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 9:23 pm

    —

David: it would be great to see pictures of the ship! I'm glad you had a nice day of it. 


Robert

 

#8:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:08 pm

    —

Robert. 

 

I.'m not sure where to post rge pics. I don't want to take up your build log. On the other hand, rhis is where others with an interest in Niiagara might see them. Please advise.


 

#9: static brig niagara model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:55 pm

    —

David , 

 

If you dont want to use Roberts build log there is a long running Niagara thread "Static Model Shipways Niagara Build " which many of us including your self have contributed to. 


Ken


 

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#10: Finishing Caronade Support Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 7:18 pm

    —

Hi all: I finished up the metal work for one caronade. Now I just have to do the other 17. The inhaul eye plate I made from 22 gauge dark steel wire, which I flattened and drilled out the eye. The basswood in this kit is a bit fragile, and the grove I cut out to receive the plate was a bit fuzzy. None-the-less, the end result was not too bad. 


I also replaced the painted "iron work" on the front of the carriage with a the same wire, which I bent to shape and then flattened with a hammer. I think it looks a bit better. 

 

Now that I know I can make the caronades, I will finish of the task, then think about the rigging. It may take me awhile to finish up, but I will post again when I'm done. 

 

MakingInhaulEyePlate.jpg 

 

CaronadeSupport.jpg


 

#11:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:45 am

    —

hey all....i added pictures of the Niagara http://www.modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=112352#112352


 

#12: Niagara Pictures Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Mon Aug 24, 2009 4:17 am

    —

Thanks for adding the pictures! I will take a look. 

 

Robert


 

#13: Carronade a bit too tall Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:08 am

    —

I was just going to mention that the carronade I put together as a prototype is a bit too tall. The top of the carronade almost touches the upper gun port. To me the hinge that the carronade rests on, and which is made of cast brittania metal in the kit, looks a bit big, scale-wise. I suppose I can file it down, or I could also thin out the carriage to make the carronade rest in the center of the port. Has anyone else working on this kit had that trouble? 

 

Robert


#14: Blocks for Carronade Rigging Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 4:15 am

    —

Sorry to ask dumb questions... I'm making good progress on the hardware for Niagara's Carronade slides (over half way done), and I'm starting to think about how to rig them. The kit supplied single and double blocks look too big to me for this scale. I'm experimenting with making 2mm blocks from round toothpicks, but I'm having trouble. Are there any recommendations for how to make these? 

 

Second question is since I'm putting in an in-haul eye plate, there must be a in-haul tackle. Where does this attach? Or is a tackle really needed for in-hauling with carronades? 

 

On the height of the slides, which I mentioned were too tall, I've sanded the carriage and the pedestal down by 1/3 each, and this has helped a bit. Still they are a bit too tall to be centered. However, I'm going to quit fiddling and live with it. 

 

Robert


#15:  Author: Russ, Location: Biloxi, Mississippi Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 5:36 am

    —

Robert: 


I hate to say it, but I just do not see your toothpick experiment yielding useable blocks. At least not that many of them. You might get a few, but not many. The wood in a toothpick just is not hard or dense enough to work well for block making. 

 

Something hard like boxwood, pear, or maybe apple would be good. I have made small blocks out of cherry, but even that has its limits. My favorite wood for block making on a stick is boxwood. I have made boxwood blocks on a stick down to nearly 3/64" length. 

 

Russ


#16: static brig niagara,model shipways kit. Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:34 am

    —

Robert. 


I am with Russ on this one. I think life is to short to worry about it, so go with what has been supplied or buy in some smaller blocks. 


Regards 

ken


#17:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 12:47 pm

    —

Robert, you may want to check out The Lumberyard (http://www.dlumberyard.com/) they have 2mm blocks there.


#18:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:02 pm

    —

Thanks for the replies. I will purchase enough blocks to get the job done. Part of the problem with making them is that as this is the first time I've done rigging of any sort, I'm also struggling with stropping the tiny things. At least if I purchase some blocks, I will have reduced my problems a bit. 

 

Robert


#19:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Tue Sep 01, 2009 8:07 pm

    —

Hi Robert, 


Probably you have all of the info you need already, but have you looked at Vulcanbombers extensive photos and description of how she dealt with both wire and rope strops on her current build? 


The pics of the rope strops are towards the bottom of the series. 


They're here: Vulcanbomber's pics


#20: 2mm blocks from toothpicks Author: McDaddy, Location: Beau Fleuve, NY Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:25 am

    —

You might check out Hubert Sicard's website "Wooden ship modeling for dummies" (www.shipmodeling.ca). He has video of making 2mm and even 1.5mm blocks from round toothpicks. I've not tried it and it looks pretty "jig intensive". 


I'm not connected to the site in any way but I do subscribe, and it looks loke an interesting project to me! It is a subscription site, but some of it is available for free. I know Hubert posts on this forum occasionally. 

 

My dream is to sped two weeks next summer on the crew of Niagara...I just have to convince SWMBO (The Admiral). I look forward to following your build. 

 

Jim


#21:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2009 4:20 am

    —

McDaddy: I like Hubert's method, but I have trouble with the block falling apart when I drill they eyes. I think I will forge ahead and buy some blocks for now. I have a feeling it may take me awhile to learn how to make them myself. I will spend some time doing that so I can make them in future, but I don't want it to slow down any (small) momentum I have on this build. 

 

I enjoy seeing what I can make myself, and I'm having more fun than I though with the metalwork for the carronades. Who could have thought that soldering little tiny rings could be fun, or that hammering out wire and drilling eyes could be enjoyable! 

 

Thanks Bernie for the recommendation to look at Vulcanbombers build. I enjoyed looking at it, and will follow in in future. 


Regards, 

Robert

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#22:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:43 pm


Jim, 

 

I too am hoping to crew on the Niagara next summer. There will be a lot of Tall Ship Festivals they said and the Niagara will travel all 5 of the Great Lakes.


#23: Making blocks Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:05 pm

    —

While waiting for the blocks that I ordered to come in, I thought it might be useful to try again to make them myself. I'm now able to make single and double blocks which are 2mm in size. Using the Chopper to slice off the blocks from a toothpick, I reinforced the blocks with a small dollop of CA glue, and then drilled the hole(s) with my Dremel drill press. The drill press really helps to get a straight hole. From there I sand the block down to size, and use a small file to shape it. The only problem is the CA glue keeps the wood stain from penetrating. 

 

As a welcome distraction from the repetition involved in making the carronades, I finished off the bowsprit, and painted it matt black (Model Shipways Spar Black) per the plans. I would like to add a bit more gloss to this painted part. The black is so flat, you cannot see much detail to the bowsprit. 

 

#24:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 8:48 pm

    —

Really like your work, including the colours & finish. 

Your tiny blocks look great.. I don't think my eyes would let me do this  . 

Just wondering: do people stain blocks? 

Also, are yours made from bamboo toothpicks or some other wood? 

cheers, 

Bernie

 

#25:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:43 pm

    —

Hi Bernie: I think the toothpicks are basswood. Definitely they are not bamboo. Thanks for your kind words. I can't claim any thing but bad nearsightedness, which allows me to see fine detail up close without a magnifying glass. This seems to be a virtue in this hobby. 

 

I think most blocks I've seen are dark wood - hence the stain. 

 

Regarding the color scheme, I'm using what is recommended by the plans for paints, though I do add a bit of grey to the colors, as I don't like the bright reds/greens of the native paints. The deck is "pickled oak". 

 

Regards, 

 

Robert

 

#26:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 11:23 pm

    —

Robert, 

 

Th blocks are very impressive. Your Niagara looks better all the time.  

 

#27:  Author: jofrost, Location: New Hampshire Posted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 5:42 pm

    —

Robert , 

 

Great looking build of the Niagara . Just picked up this kit recently too and am looking forward to building it . I'm quite new at this ship modeling , and am building a couple small Midwest kits for starters   

 

Looking forward to following along with the rest of your great build . 

 

-John

 

#28:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 4:22 am

    —

Hi John: I think you will like building the Niagara. You can build it "as is" out of the box if you wish, or try scratch building bits of the ship. The plans are very good, with lots of detail. I myself am finding myself being stretched by the model. 

 

I should have started with a few smaller, simpler kits, but I think the basic hull is relatively straightforward in terms of it's shape. 

 

Enjoy the build! 

 

Regards, 

 

Robert

 

#29:  Author: jofrost, Location: New Hampshire Posted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:33 pm

    —

Robert , 

 

I hope to build straight out of the box as you say . The kit should be arriving any day now and am quiet excited to look things over . I think my hardest part will be the rigging ( all those ropes look intimidating ) Though like any model , I'll try and stay focused on small segments at a time .  

 

Great build !!! 

 

-John

 

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Description:  The Chopper makes short work of cutting the blocks. You just need to sand the cut ends as the blade flexes a small degree as you chop.

 

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 Description:  Here is a mixture of 2mm single and double blocks.


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 Description:    Carronades starting to look ship shape.

 

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 Description:    Bowsprit shaped and painted

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#30: Caronade progress Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:38 pm

    —

Hi all. I've been away from the model for about three weeks due to travel, and then I got lazy for a bit as well. I've finished constructing the caronades, and am ready to start thinking about rigging them. I'm not sure that this is the best time to install the caronades, as I still have some finishing work to do on the deck (various rings, cleats, etc.) So I may construct the tackle but wait for installation for a bit. Here are a few quick pictures of the finished caronades. 

 

I'm playing around a bit with weathering the caronades, to take off some of the shine, and dull the cannon black, and give it a little rust color with earth red pastels . I've also tried to dull the red a bit more by adding a bit of mouse grey pastel. I don't know yet if I like it, but here is a picture with the weathered caronade in the lower half of the picture, and the non-weathered caronade above it. 

 

I've started to make the hooks for the caronade tackle. I'm not sure really how to make small hooks. The wire approach is a bit inconsistent so far. I will keep playing about with it. 

 

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#31:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:10 pm

    —

Robert, 

I'm about ready to make the cannon tackle for my AVS. To make hooks as well. I tried various ideas but for me the best results ere using a mandrel I had picked up at Model-Expo. I also found it fairly effective to wrap wire around the end of round nose pliers. If this is of any help.


#32: Making hooks Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 1:55 am

    —

Hi David:that is more or less how I make the hooks. I find that the 1:64 scale make these hooks rather small, so instead of using rounded pliers, I use a small drill shank. I think I'm getting the hang of it, I just wish they were coming out a more consistent shape. 

By-the-way, I like how your Armed Virginia Sloop is coming along! 

Robert


#33:  Author: Chuck, Location: Rutherford Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 2:15 am

    —

Nice work on those carronades Robert. Thats not an easy thing to finish up with such consistency. Yours look great. The Niagara is a nice kit and you are really do a good job of showing how nice a model can be built from it. I have this kit in the closet and the plans are just teriffic. 

 

Chuck

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#34: Bilge Pump Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:20 am

    —

I had a few hours to work on the bilge pump. The pump was fun to do, and made a nice change from the repetitive caronade work. I threw in a picture of the soldering of the pump rod. I almost feel like I'm getting the hang of soldering these small parts. Other times, I still make a mess of it.

 

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#35:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:40 am

    —

I really like the pump, and the fabrication of the pump rod is excellent! 

Very nice soldering too. 

Can I ask how you flattened the ends of the "stirrup" before drilling the pin holes? 

cheers, Bernie

 

#36:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:03 pm

 

    —

Nice job on the soldering.....something I have yet to learn to do well. The pump looks great. I really enjoy watching your progress.


#37: Flattening metal rod Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:26 pm

    —

Hi Bernie: in this case I flattened the stirrup with a large pair of pliers that have smooth jaws at the front of the plier. These give me enough leverage to flatten most small brass rods. It is easier in this case to use the pliers rather than a jeweler's hammer, due to the small size of the piece. Hammering it flat would have been awkward. 


I then create a drill hole with a punch. The drilling process actually deforms the metal rod a bit more, and creates a circular effect around the hole. I still need to file down the piece a bit to finish it off. 


Regards, 

 

Robert


#38:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:39 pm

    —

Quote:


The drilling process actually deforms the metal rod a bit more, and creates a circular effect around the hole


Nice!... a cleanup with a file and you have a neat, rounded... whateveritscalled end on your piece. I'll remember that! 


Here's a tip that you may not know for straightening wire.. grip one end in a vyce and the other end in the chuck of a drill. Put a bit of tension on and switch on the drill (slow-ish). Absolutely dead straight in a second.. You have to judge the amount you spin on the length of wire.. it will eventually break if you overdo it. Also I think it will work-harden the wire. 


cheers, Bernie


#39:  Author: Rockit, Location: Ohio Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 6:10 pm

    —

Your brig looks great! I started mine a couple months ago and for the life of me cannot figure out the stern corner blocks. After bashing my head over it for better than two weeks I stuffed everything back in the box and gave up. If ya need any spare parts, let me know, I have a bunch!


#40:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 7:14 pm

    —

Hi Rockit: Remember the dictum "don't give up the ship!" Let me see if I can help a bit. First off, the stern blocks are difficult! What aspect of the blocks are giving you the most trouble? Working the wood, or getting the shape right (or some other factor)? Let me know, and I may be able to help. 


Regards,


Robert

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Hi Larry:  thanks for stopping by.  I use a small jewelers tourch for soldering.  It is much easier to use than an electric iron.  At least I think so for small parts.

 

Tim,  thanks for looking in.  

 

Here is some more of the old log...

 

 

#53: Construction of galley stack Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 9:29 pm

    —

I thought I would try and make the galley stack rather than use the Brittanica fitting that came with the model. The pre-made part need to have the stack top drilled as there is no place for smoke to escape otherwise. I found it difficult to drill out cleanly, so I'm making the stack myself. I used two diameter of brass tubing, which I blackened. The stack top was a bit of a puzzle how to make. I ended up carving it out of a hardwood dowel. 

 

The dowel top cap needs to be separated from the chimney top with three rods. Again I had a bit of trouble connecting the rods to the top of the tube. These are tiny wire. Soldering did not work, as the wires were too close together, and the tube heated so that previous wires de-soldered when trying to do the next one. I ended up gluing them on with epoxy. 

 

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 Description: Shaping the stack cap

 

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 Description:    Here are the parts I used to construct...

 

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 Description:    Stack with the wires attached.

 

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 Description:    Finished stack.

 

#54: Tiller and Rudder Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:20 am

    —

I've been tidying up the deck and installing the last of the eyebolts and cleats. The deck itself needed a few minor repairs. So I did all that this weekend. Not much to really show in that regard. In addition to these little (but time consuming tasks), I started working on the rudder and tiller. Everything but the gudgeons and pintels are now done. Here are a few quick pictures. By-the-way, I'm not sure if I'm overdoing it with details in my pictures. Sorry if this is the case. 

 

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 Description:    The tiller goes all the way thru the rudder with a mortise and tenon joint.

 

post-212-0-38304800-1362242145.jpg

 Description:    A miniature chisel and a file finishes the mortise off

 

post-212-0-31933500-1362242144.jpg

 

post-212-0-31858500-1362242142.jpg

 Description:    The rudder needs to be tapered aft, and rounded off where it meets the stern

 

post-212-0-08086600-1362242140.jpg

 

#55:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:24 am

    —

Very nice job on the tilerl. If any Niagara builders are interested there is some info on the 2010 Tall Ship races in the Great Lakes here.

#56:  Author: Rockit, Location: Ohio Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 12:38 pm

    —

Nice snug fit with the tiller, Robert. It looks great. If you need pics of the 'real' one or it's rigging let me know.

#57:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:35 pm

    —

Hi Rockit: thanks for the offer of a few photos of the tiller area. I've got one photo of the tiller, but I don't think it shows any rigging for the area. I would not say no to a picture that shows any rigging for the tiller area. 

 

Regards, 

 

Robert 

 

P.S. hope you are making progress on your Niagara.

#58:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:47 pm

    —

Hi Robert, 

Very neat jointing with the tiller. 

 

That chisel you used... was it originally a chisel, or have you made it from a jeweler's screwdriver? 

 

Also: As far as I'm concerned, the more pics the better. I get all sorts of ideas and info from the pics people post. 

nice work, 

Bernie

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#59:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:55 pm

    —

I've made a bit more progress on the rudder attachment. I must confess that though I started out work with a good mood, I found by the end of the battle, I was glad to be done attaching the "darn" thing. If I had a dollar for every time I dropped a gudgeon I would be able to retire by now. Not to mention the multiple attempts it took to glue the "danged" things onto the stern. Oh well. Here are a few pictures of the battle scene (cleaned up with a bit of paint to hide a few rounds of action. 

 

post-212-0-70455700-1362333677.jpg

 Description:    Drilling out the pintles and gudgeons was another fun task.

 

post-212-0-51467000-1362333675.jpg

 Description:    I decided to fashion the gudgeons out of a U shaped piece, with a small diameter tube sized to fit the pintle pin, and filed down on one edge to make it "D" shaped. The flat part of the D is attached to the U shape, and it is done. Easier said

 

post-212-0-64305700-1362333676.jpg

 Description:    Pintles are U shaped on the plan, with a pin attached - in this case by soldering

 

post-212-0-54883700-1362333674.jpg

 Description:    I pre-painted the rudder (maybe this is a mistake!), but the ship stern also needed to be prepped for attachment.

 

post-212-0-50385000-1362333673.jpg

 Description:    The end result. It still needs a bit of clean-up, but it is now roughly complete.

 

#60:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:57 pm

    —

Hi Bernie: yes indeed I filed a set of jewelers screwdrivers down to use as chisels. I keep them nice and sharp, and they seem to work well. 

 

Regards, Robert

 

#61:  Author: Loeffelholz, Location: Springfield, Illinois Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:59 am

    —

Lovely brig you've got going there, Robert... 

 

I'm building the AVS now as my rookie effort...but I'm more and more leaning toward the Niagara for my 2nd project---I figure one mast, then two...then three  


#62:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 6:04 am

   —

Hum, here is a possible sixth build ... javascript:emoticon('') 

http://www.ahrtp.com/TallshipsOnLine/pages/CROWL1-1.htm 

 

Robert[/url]

 

#63:  Author: Rockit, Location: Ohio Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:16 pm

    —

Tiller rigging stuff... [Note:  the following three photos have been lost]

 

Tiller03.jpg

 Description:    Starboard side line to tiller

 

Tiller02.jpg

 Description:    Looking towards Starboard

 

Tiller01.jpg

 Description:    Notice how excess line is coiled and left to dangle

 

#64:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 5:49 am

    —

Rockit: Those are great pictures -- it is nice to see the Niagara as a working ship. Thanks for sharing them! I must admit I'm anxious to start rigging the model, but I keep seeing things that need to be added (and things that I missed on the plan.) I've not put eye bolts or cleats on the stern ports yet (for example.) There is also the cap on the rudder post with the reinforcing rod going to the tiller. My top rudder post is oval shaped at the moment, and it will probably stay that way. A perfect circle shape would have been easier to cap. Oh well. I think it is the Captain's prerogative to make these little adjustments. An oval it will be: get the blacksmith at once! Make it so Lieutenant (Aye-aye Captain!) 

 

In general I enjoy scratch building the many parts that this kit requires the modeler to make. But today I would give anything for a little plastic bag full of twenty or so consistently made cleats! 

 

Regards, Robert

 

#65: Static: brig niagara, Model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:08 am

    —

Robert. 


I did just that . bought 20 or so consistently made cleats. 


Going back and looking at the Niagara you just dont notice the cleats unless you look very closely and most of them are wrapped with rigging. 


Regards Ken


#66:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:25 pm

    —

Thanks Ken for your comments. I tested the cleats today to make sure that they would not come off at the first tug of rigging. I only had one failure, which has been put right. I will not fiddle too much more with them, as I'm sure you are right: they will be hidden by rope etc. 

 

Today I finished up the tiller, with the addition of a cap, and a reinforcing rod from the cap to the tiller. Next I started to model the breach bolts that appear on most pictures I've seen of the exterior of the Niagara hull. They don't appear on the plans (at least I don't remember seeing them) and they were probably considered too small for the scale of the model. I used a flat brass rod cut square (I did have trouble getting the bolt plates to be "exactly square".) I've included a few pictures of what the plates look like. I will do the bolts as a simple dollup of acrylic paint (dot) in the center of each plate. I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble (any thoughts?) If anyone has thought on how to do it better, I would appreciate the comment. 

 

Regards, Robert 

 

post-212-0-11718500-1362333894.jpg

 

Tpost-212-0-09805800-1362333893.jpg

 

post-212-0-03141500-1362333891.jpg

 

post-212-0-04616400-1362333892.jpg

 


#67:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:30 pm

    —

Fat lot I know about it, but the plates look rather thick from where I sit. 


Perhaps brass shim or even paper? Nice work on the tiller cap and reinforcing rod, BTW. 


cheers, Bernie

 

#68:  Author: Loeffelholz, Location: Springfield, Illinois Posted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:40 pm

    —

Looks fantastic! I love the paint scheme. Definitely leaning toward Niagara for a 2nd build... 

 

Cheers, Mark

 

#69:  Author: Rockit, Location: Ohio Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:47 am

    —

Coming along nicely, ra. 

 

For those interrested in the little glass skylights, I posted some photos for sixman in this thread: 

http://modelshipworld.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=126213#126213

 

#70:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 3:28 am

    —

Robert your model looks great. I have a question about the kit. The actual Niagara has a captains walk that covers a portion on the tiller area. Does the kit have the captains walk too?


#71: static: brig niagara, model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 7:23 am

    —

David. 


In answer to your ? re a captains walk, I dont think so but are you able to give us a sketch or photo so that we can be sure. 


Regards Ken

 

#72:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 12:45 pm

    —

Would be happy to do so. here is one picture of the top of the walk. It is a simple bridge that covers a portion of the aft end and where the tiller meets the rudder stem and allows the captain to stand high enough to see past the bow.

 

#73:  Author: Bahamas_Diver, Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 1:54 pm

    —

Hmmmmm sorry...That link didn't work as I had hoped. Here are 3 pictures of the captain's walk. [Note:  the following three pictures have been lost.]

 

capt walk2.jpg

 Description:    Notice captains walk at aft end with tiller under it

 

capt walk3.jpg

 Description:    Notice tiller on left side of picture under the walk

 

capt walk4.jpg

 Description:    Captain on walk overseeing "shove off"

 

#74:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:47 pm

    —

David: The Captain's walk is not on the plans. I would say that adding the Captain's walk would be a relatively easy thing to do. I saw the walk in your photos of the Niagara, but decided to not add it in. Currently the stern ports are used for docking lines. I don't know if originally there would have been two long guns there? It seems unlikely due to the slope of the counter: the guns would be more of a danger to distant birds than to any opponent ship. 

 

Bernie: regarding the thickness of the bolt plates. I think you are right. I did try using card, but I did not have the right thickness. It was too thin and you could not see them at all once painted. I may search about the house and see if I can find card with the right (not to thick, not to thinness.) Paper would be much easier to work with. Thanks for your comments. 

 

Regards, Robert

 

#75: static brig niagara, model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:47 am

    —

David 


Robert is correct, but it should be relatively simple to add to the model and would be a very attractive addition. 


In my case I would have to move the rigging for the boom!! 


Regards ken

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  • 3 weeks later...

#76: Ship Boats Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:17 am


    —


Next I'm going to resume working on the ship boats for Niagara. There are three: a yawl, and two larger cutters. I've already completed the yawl, using the model kit's bread and butter construction, with no planks on the exterior. The hull is finished off by sanding the constructed hall paper thin, then priming and painting it. I like the results, but have a nagging feeling that I can do it better. So for the cutters, I want to attempt a plank on bulkhead construction using scale planks. I've included a few pictures of the yawl. 


 


Worst case would be if the cutter does not turn out well, I can redo them using the kit's materials. 


 


I will mention that the construction method was gleaned from Hubert Sicard's "Wooden Ship Modeling for Dummies." I will modify the techniques if need be, but since this is my first attempt to scratch build a boat, I will stick to his methods as much as possible. I'm not a sales person for Hubert's site, but I have found he has a lot of neat ideas. Just looking at his methods opens one up for adventure in modeling. 


 


I'm a slow worker (as I've mentioned before) but I will keep you posted on my progress... 


Robert 


 


post-212-0-83391500-1364150248.jpg


 Description: Here is the yawl...


 


post-212-0-33973600-1364150247.jpg


 


post-212-0-79476100-1364150246.jpg


 


post-212-0-90120500-1364150366.jpg


 Description: I used Photoshop to scan in the body plan, and separated them out to create a template for each bulkhead


 


#77:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:06 am


    —


I didn't get too much done today, as I'm coming down with a cold. However, I cut out the bulkhead profiles for the cutter using an exacto knife, and pasted them to a 3/32" board. If I had been smart, I would have glued them all along the edge. This would have avoided having to square the bases. Next, I rough cut out the profiles using a jewelers saw, and then fine tuned them using a number 11 exacto blade, then sanded them The bulkheads are now in the right ballpark for shape. I will fair the bulkheads to their final shape when I've glued them to a base board. 


 


Robert 


 


post-212-0-23875300-1364150246.jpg


post-212-0-80602200-1364150421.jpg


 


post-212-0-42946100-1364150245.jpg

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#78:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 12:04 am


    —


Today I got a bit further on the jig for making the cutters plank on bulkhead style. As I'm in new territory (for me) I'm taking things slow, so that I don't mess up too much. The bulkheads have now been fitted with boat frames. These are glued only at the ends (tabs), where l cut into the bulkhead base. In theory after the planking, the tabs are cut, and the boat should lift off of the jig (I remain skeptical.) I waxed the edges of the bulkheads to prevent glue from penetrating, as a fail safe (we shall see!). After the bulkheads are added, I fashioned a bow piece to terminate the planking at the front. The transom is glued to a square dowel at the angle needed (the transom for this cutter is not perpendicular, but angled aft.) I'm still fiddling with the transom a bit, to figure out how to deal with planking the stern. 


 


So far so good. I will need to fair the first and last two bulkheads to make the planking run smoothly. I'm a little worried that the boat frames are not thick enough for the fairing needed at the stern. I may have to redo these with a bit thicker frames. 


 


Now I'm off to buy the turkey for Thanksgiving, and will be busy for the next few days. I should have time to work on the model on Friday, as it is a day off for me. Happy holls for those celebrating Thanksgiving! 


 


Regards, 


 


Robert 


 


post-212-0-38945500-1364165717.jpg


 Description: Frames are bent around bulkheads using heat/water. I used alcohol for the ones with sharp angles.


 


post-212-0-43771600-1364165718.jpg


 


post-212-0-44748200-1364165719.jpg


 


#79: Cutter continued... Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 2:29 am


    —


Ok, I made a bit of progress on the first of the two cutters. I added the keel and rudder, using the laser cut piece that came with the kit. The rudder and keel are currently one piece, but I will cut the rudder off from the keel as a last step. I accidentally broke the bow off (the piece was on a 1/32 basswood sheet, not ply! -- very fragile). Oh well. 


 


So far the planking is going smoothly. The garboard strake is installed, and I just need to figure out how to finish the planking off without causing undue disgrace to this author. And, I also hope the danged thing will come off the jig. My first few planks, the super glue seemed to seep through the frames (as the glue is want to do.) I learned to age the glue, which is a gel type super glue, by leaving a drop of it on a piece of waxed paper. When it thickens, but still is liquid, it is easier to apply a precise drop to the frame, and it does not penetrate into the wood as much. I will be reinforcing the whole hull with a dilute wood glue when the planking is done, so I'm not so worried about the strength of the super glue bond. 


 


Robert 


 


post-212-0-07839800-1364165784.jpg


 


post-212-0-53517300-1364165781.jpg


post-212-0-45440000-1364165782.jpg


 


post-212-0-01105900-1364165785.jpg


 


#80: Static brig niagara model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:33 am


    —


Robert. 


I assume you are going to cut out the insides of the bulwarks.? 


If so, how are you going to do it 


Regards 


ken


#81:  Author: phrygian, Location: Kentucky Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 2:05 pm


    —


He's planking onto frames bent over the bulkheads. 


 


bob h


#82:  Author: Gyber, Location: Los Angeles Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 8:48 pm


    —


Sorry for all the posts. I could not resist posting about the cutting out of the cutter, which went very smoothly. I'm not sure I did the best planking job: it is tougher that it looks to get all the small planks bent and fitted. After the planking was done, I cut out the transom, and then cut the tabs off at the bulkhead. It lifted right off! I've included a few pictures to show the rough shape. As the cutter will be painted, I will do a bit of sanding and smoothing, then reinforce the wood with a dilute wood glue wash. It is a bit of a relief to have gotten this far with it. 


 


Now I only need to do it all one more time for the second cutter! At least the jig should hold together for the second boat. 


 


I probably will not post again for awhile, as I have lots of "uninteresting" tasks to do on the model. I will show the detailing work on the boat, however, when I get to that stage. 


 


Ken, Bob was correct in pointing out that the boat frames were not directly connected to the bulkheads, only bent over them, and glued at the jig base. 


 


Regards, 


 


Robert 


 


post-212-0-08844000-1364165854.jpg


 Description: The transom required some steady cutting out, but it went smoothly. Oops, there went the top of the rudder! The frames were relatively easy to cut.


 


post-212-0-11001600-1364165853.jpg


 


post-212-0-48937600-1364165852.jpg


 


#83: static brig niagara,model shipways kit Author: kenr, Location: melbourne Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 9:38 pm


    —


Robert 


I understand now. 


Congratulations,very neat work  


Regards 


ken


#84:  Author: Rockit, Location: Ohio Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 11:00 pm


    —


Looks good Robert - I'm going to come back and refresh when I get that far along; maybe steal a couple of your ideas  


#85:  Author: vanburen,  Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 5:53 am


    —


Perfect timing! I just started on my boats. Looking great.


#86:  Author: bernie, Location: Geelong Posted: Sun Nov 29, 2009 7:33 pm


    —


Nice work on the boats. Both techniques seem to have let you produce good results. 


I like this kind of work very much (though a bit too clumsy to replicate it   ). 


cheers, Bernie

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