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Posted (edited)

Gluing/clamping the first of the two decks (is this one fore or aft?  Won’t know until I install the seats I guess).  I actually had to make these two-piece, cambered and oak-veneered deck units twice.  The first ones somehow got just a bit too narrow, from not taking enough care when shaping.  
 

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Had to fashion a couple of angle blocks to make a conventional clamp work (held in place with masking tape).  The second clamp is to compress the left side down flush with the side planking.  My pre-bending got the parts close to a perfect fit, but not quite.

 

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The flat center section will get a tapered cherry “king plank” glued/nailed over it.

Edited by halvoric

Dan

 

Current kit build(s): Chesapeake Bay Flattie Canadian Canoe 1:8

Posted

The nails for the king plank are made from 24 gauge bare copper wire, half hard, from Craftwire.  I have some 22ga as well, may use that for bolts or screws if my Etsy-sourced brass brads are too big.

 

The pin vise bit is 1/32”, approximately a No. 69 size (about 30 thousandths).

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I’m leaving the nails longer than they need to be as no one will see the ends.  Maybe will get obsessive about scale length on the next model 😂.

 

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Dan

 

Current kit build(s): Chesapeake Bay Flattie Canadian Canoe 1:8

Posted

The outwales are made from 3/16” x 1/8” x 24” basswood strips.  Looking at resource photos, the Mike Elliott book, and the archival Peterborough catalog, it’s clear that there is a particular shape to the outwales on the Model 44, the profile of which is best seen in the catalog at the top of the strip canoe page:

 

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The Elliott book also shows a similar profile (“wide outwales”) found as well on canoes of other makers:

IMG_4480.thumb.jpeg.dfad455ceb44b3327496d74a8b7c9600.jpeg
 

I first sanded the inside edge camber to match the top plank, then soaked and bent the two ends to match the curve of the stem end decks (neglected to take a photo).

 

Then sanded most of the top bevel into the strip before attaching, to minimize the amount of shaping needed once on the canoe (still had to do a lot of shaping).  For the other side I will also thin the ends in both taper (horizontal) and thickness dimensions before attaching.  
 

I glued it on with medium CA in 2-3 inch sections, taking care to keep the stock flush with top plank and matching the upturn curves on the deck ends.  The photos don’t show the shaping very well unfortunately.  I think the shape looks more accurate to the full-scale in person. 
 

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Dan

 

Current kit build(s): Chesapeake Bay Flattie Canadian Canoe 1:8

Posted (edited)

Next step will be adding the 6 screws (countersunk/pocketed I think) holding each to the decks on the ends.  Research examples:

IMG_4161.webp.f73361739af096ad71ed35e65fc7d79c.webpIMG_4236.jpeg.c592993728b7fda9805f67f35e92f6ea.jpegIMG_3918.jpeg.d3bfab26cddef9d89d1197ef0c462aef.jpegIMG_3919.jpeg.c6c05138a08d802580a195ac8e3eb0b4.jpeg
 

I notice a fair amount of variation among the research canoes on the final shape and width of the outwales (many are restorations).  So I will try to hit a happy medium.

Edited by halvoric
Typo fix

Dan

 

Current kit build(s): Chesapeake Bay Flattie Canadian Canoe 1:8

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