Norwegian Sailing Pram by Bryan Woods - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:12

[Bryan Woods]

 

Slow start on the Pram. On the beginning, I was a little confused about the beveling of the transoms. I just couldn’t visualize it until I went through past build logs (that I had read earlier but didn’t have the question then). 
 

 

The bevel guide took a minute for me to figure out.

 

 

 

 

Placing the stern knee on the lower stern transom, I noticed the knee extended further then the image in the instruction manual. I’m back to the trusted past build logs looking for the perfect image I need to see.

 

 

Now I need to purchase a bench vice before I begin to bevel the transoms and drill through the bow knee.

 

[Bryan Woods]

While I was waiting on the bench vice,I beveled and tried my best the rabbets on the planks that got them. Wanting to bend them but the transoms weren’t  ready for the build board. I was trying to scale the curve so I could make a jig to bend them when I heard a voice from my late father, “ if you keep touching it you’re going to mess it up.”

 

 

 

Completed both transoms 

 

 

 

 

Soon after I glued the bottom planks I noticed the stern had an issue.

 

 

 

I cut both bottom planks and the keel plank loose from the transom. Then sanded the bevel and held the transom up until I got it clamped.

 

 

 

 

Soaked and bent the next plank.

 

 

 

 

 

[Bryan Woods]

Hello from middle Tennessee. Planks are fitting well bending them in the jig. I have had some issues identifying which side of the plank to bevel or rabbet. I used mini wooden clothes pins to clamp the garboard and the second plank.

 

 

Then on the sheer plank there wasn’t enough room for the clothes pins. I drilled small holes in reg. size clothes pins and pulled a rubber band through using a small wire. I looped one end through the other to make an adjustable clamp.

 

 

I noticed a misalignment when looking over the Pram after all the planks were installed.

 

 

 

After placing the skeg and bilge keels the hull was removed and the dagger board case was assembled and installed. The first frame was #3. I used the tick strip given in the manual to place it. After marking for frame #2 placement I used a scrap stick to measure both sides to square it to #3.

 

i decided to bend the inwales like I did the other planks and then cut them in the appropriate position of the boats curve.

 

 

I fitted both stern and bow quarter knees.

 

 

After placing the first pair of thwart frames, I thought it would help me best to fit the thwarts as I go. After one pair was installed, I placed the thwart on the pair and slid the other under so I could mark were I needed to glue it.

I repeated this for the other frames.

Not excited about the instructions saying to boil the small floor cleats. I again turned to my bending jig for an option.

 

 

 

And that brings us to the present. 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 20, 2023 by Bryan Woods

[BobG]

Very nice work, Bryan, and an excellent build log as well. I look forward to following your progress.

[Bryan Woods]

1 hour ago, BobG said:

Very nice work, Bryan, and an excellent build log as well. I look forward to following your progress.

Thank you for the encouraging words!  

[Bryan Woods]

Hello builders, we all think of different ways to accomplish our needs. Here  is a small example I’m going to share.

 

 

I cut the shape of the molds on the build board in a small box to make a stand for the work inside the hull.

 

 

I’ll be honest the steps after the planking have had me out of my comfort zone. I left off bending and cutting the floor board cleats. I was supposed to use 3/16”x 1/8” stock. I looked, picked ,soaked ,bent, cut and glued the 3/64”x1/8” stock.

 

 

I wonder how  that’s going to work for the floor boards? I can’t wait to see.

 

 

I’m going to temporarily stick the floor boards on so I can see if I can recover without backing up.

 

 
 I had to shorten all the boards for them to rest on the half size cleats. I think I can live with the change. Now wondering what I’m going to use for the rub rails. 
 

 

I’m no different than everybody else wondering why both boards for the mast step have holes. I just glued them both and plugged the bottom with a cleat that helped me place it between the frames.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not my favorite tool but careful biting one tooth of the saw to slowly cut through the inwales.

 

 

 

 

I used two of the sides of a plank sheet to make the rub rails. I put the factory cut edge down and the uneven edge at the top so I cut it down level.

 

 

 

The hull is ready for some color.

 

 

 

That’s all the progress for the last week, I did find a decade old Mindwest display cramped between other materials at my local country hardware store.

 

 

They had no idea they even had it.

 

 

Edited March 27, 2023 by Bryan Woods

[BobG]

Your model is looking great, Bryan. Nice work!

[Bryan Woods]

5 hours ago, BobG said:

Your model is looking great, Bryan. Nice work!

Thank you, Bob.

[DonBMichigan]

Looking good! I like the text you add to your photos. I'm following...

 

Edited March 27, 2023 by DonBMichigan

[Bryan Woods]

Back with a little more progress. There was about a week of painting. Here’s the outside of the hull with her coats.

 

 

The smallest width of painters tape I could find locally was 3/4” and was hard to make the curves clean.

 

 

This made taping for the inside easier.

 

 

Tiller was next.

 

 

I settled with a slightly bent rod instead mushroom headed one.

 

The rudder. This is where I strayed away from the instructions. I had my doubts about my ability to assemble tiny hinged brackets square enough to connect with receivers on the stern transom. So, here’s my way.

First build both gudgeons. I slid the 1/16” rod inside tube and rolled it under my knife not using a lot of pressure. As the tube cut into, I slid it down the rod. The first one I let come off. It was a task getting the rough cut tube 3/16” long back on. So I tried to keep them together as best as possible.

 

 

 

 

Instead of nails I cut tiny specks of copper wire and just glued them over the holes.

 

 

 
After checking and double checking the placement, I glued both complete assemblies to the rudder.

 

 

 

More nailing.

 

 

Good thing most of the people that will see my model, besides the ones in this forum, will probably have less than great eyesight.

 

 

Mast, boom and gaff corners were planed down. Then I spun them with one hand as I ran sand paper up and down.

 

 

Here are a few metal tools that came in handy.

 

 

Reading that the chafing pad was usually made of copper, I thought mine could be too.

 

 

 

 

To sum up my progress.

 

 

And enjoyed every minute!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2023 by Bryan Woods
Remove Duplicate photographs

[Ryland Craze]

Nice job.  You used a lot of unique techniques to get this far in your build.  It is really turning out to be a nice model.

[Bryan Woods]

6 hours ago, Ryland Craze said:

Nice job.  You used a lot of unique techniques to get this far in your build.  It is really turning out to be a nice model.

Thank you Ryland, you could say I’m an improviser.

[Bryan Woods]

I had some  time this week to venture into another “new to me” part of the build.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bryan Woods]

I installed magnets in base to help steady it. I really didn’t want to glue it on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had trouble trying to tie half hitches with the thread being conscious of the small amount given. I use clove hitches often. They made it a lot easier to be conservative with the thread.

 

 

The back stays went smoother.

 

 

After gluing the lines  at the stay straps near the mast head, I tied the clove at the bottom and slid it up into position, pulled tight and glued.

 

Hoisted the sail

 

 

And completed my second model boat!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before

 

Before I start Muscongus Bay lobster smack I’m going to build the Catspaw Dinghy Lines Model by the wooden boat store.

 

 

[DonBMichigan]

Nice work! 

[MajorChaos]

Great job getting it finished!

[robert952]

Re:  Name of knot.  That's called a wonhelova.  😁  Not sure the language that's translated from.  It's the knot I use most often. 

 

Nice looking models.  I only hope my 'first time sail' works and looks this good.

 

You've got a good start on a nice little fleet. 

 

Looking forward to following your next build.  

[Ryland Craze]

Congratulations!  Nice job on this model and an excellent build log for future builders of this kit. 

[Waitoa]

Great build

[WizardOfOs]

Excellent build, Bryan. I've enjoyed keeping up with it and you have a great model to show at the end of the process. I'm eager to see the next!

[CaptJoe]

Any word of wisdom on the tiller metal work?  The "gentle tap" required to create a mushroom on the end of the wire is extremely oversimplified.  So far, I've split the wood on both tiller extensions (easy enough to make more) and bent the wire on the main tiller. I think simply gluing heads on the ends might be far easier.

[Bryan Woods]

12 hours ago, CaptJoe said:

Any word of wisdom on the tiller metal work?  The "gentle tap" required to create a mushroom on the end of the wire is extremely oversimplified.  So far, I've split the wood on both tiller extensions (easy enough to make more) and bent the wire on the main tiller. I think simply gluing heads on the ends might be far easier.

 Captjoe, the plan was for it to mushroom but if I remember right, it just bent. It didn’t fall off:-) I did probably drop a dot of CA to keep it there. I didn’t try to build the hinges so it could move.