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Posted

Post 81

A look around Harpy at this six month build stage, a very enjoyable experience overall.

In my search for authenticity, there has  been some frustration with detail queries, and some things still remain a mystery.

Even so, she is shaping up into a fine model, Harpy is a worthy addition to Chris’s  range.

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All the hull work bar some minor fittings, is now essentially complete, time to move onto the Masting.

 

B.E.

25/05/2025

Posted

A masterpiece to be sure and one that continues to inspire me.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted

Cheers Guys for your  comments and 'likes'  much appreciated.👍

 

Post 82

Boom and Gaff

I have spent a couple of days looking at the two booms I will include with my model.

An interesting use of terminology here.

What we may generically know as Driver Booms are referred to by Steel as Main Booms in relation to cutters and Sloops.

Again, there are defined proportions relating to Driver/Main Booms.

The Steel tables indicate subtle differences in the taper arrangements between  Driver booms and Main Booms, mainly in relation to the position of the widest diameter, but the differences at  1:64 scale are minimal.

Driver Booms – largest diameter – mid point along the boom

Main Booms  -   largest diameter - Position of the sheet – just inside the Tafferal.

 

The  sizes of booms is confusing, it must be tricky to decide what to apply to the Harpy Kit.

Unfortunately Steel doesn’t have tables relative to Brig Sloops.

The kit Main Boom seems to be based on a 200 ton Brig with a Boom diameter of 10½” – 4mm at scale.

Harpy is a 316 ton vessel, yet a Sloop of 300 tons has a Boom diameter of only 7⅜”-  3mm at scale.

 

There are also defined proportions set out in Steel for Gaffs

Length of Gaffs 5/8 of respective booms, diameter of Gaffs -same as booms.

The kit seems to follow these proportions.

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Both booms were shaped on the lathe using sanding papers.

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I note that the boom jaws lack iron bands which were common for these items.

I used heat shrink tubing for the purpose, but black card would suffice.

The Gaff

On my build I found the jaws  a tad too small to fit around the mast in the raised position even tho’ the overall mast dimension including the cheeks is the correct diameter.

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Here I have  thinned down the jaws as much as I dare but the fit is not ideal.

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Fortunately, on my build the Gaff will be in the lowered postion where the fit is fine.

Had I been rigging the Gaff in the raised position I would  have to re-do the Gaff for a better fit, probably by splitting the jaws and re-attaching with a slightly less tapered boom at the inboard end.

 

B.E

01/06/2025

 

Posted

Post 83

Bowsprit

My eye had been drawn to the Bowsprit as looking a little underweight compared to the Mainmast. My understanding is that Bowsprits are generally the same diameter as the Mainmast (at the Partners).

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The Adm plan does seem to show the Bowsprit diameter as being comparable to the Mainmast.

 

As you may expect there are rules, and for Bowsprits of a given gross diameter  a proportional taper is applied at  each quarter along the length to the outer end, and inboard to the heel.

Heel   1stQ      2ndQ     3RDQ   Outer end.

 6/7   60/61    11/12     4/5        5/9

Long story short, having compared information from Steel I decided to use a 8mm dowel reduced to 7mm+ on the lathe, before the proportions were applied.

Between the Head Timbers (Knightheads) I had to accept a degree of compromise, settling for a diameter of 6.6mm. This also involved a little sanding of the Head timbers to allow passage. 

The Bowsprit was tapered to 5.8mm at the step, and 4.7mm at the outer end.

 

I had initially used a 6mm dowel to check the position of the gammoning cleats.

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A Gammoning test line was applied to mark the position.

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I used Syren 0.63mm ø line for the Gammoning which I dyed using Dark Jacobean wood dye. This is something I do for all standing rigging as  I prefer the look to kit supplied black line.

Note: The Gammoning line has twist in it; Starting on the port side each successive turn  goes over the Bowsprit forward, and crosses the previous line aft as it runs thro’ the gammoning slot. The line is completed with frapping turns around the centre and seized off.

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Gammoning completed on the replacement Bowsprit.

The Gammoning cleats are very small; I found that attaching them to double sided tape was sufficient to hold them for a light cleaning up.

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Ramin dowel was used to make the Bowsprit

I used w-o-p  on the Bowsprit followed by a light oak dye concoction to match the masts.

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I am not quite decided how much more detailing of the Bowsprit I will do, it is there primarily for the attachment of the Fore Stay.

 

The next stage is completing the mast detail and onto the shroud rigging.

 

B.E.

02/06/2025

Posted
On 6/1/2025 at 8:06 AM, Blue Ensign said:

I used heat shrink tubing for the purpose

 

Now THAT is a great idea! I will tuck that wee bit of info away for future reference.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

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