Jump to content


NRG Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. Thanks for the comment. If you check my Cheerful build, those trucks, like all my other models, are round. Flirt’s cannons are tiny, only 4 pounders and at 1:64 I can barely see the trucks. I did file off the edges, gently, when I started to round them off further, equally gently by hand, they snapped right off. That ended that. While I appreciate the suggestion, at normal viewing distance you’d be hard pressed to notice their shape. That looks like an interesting tool though.
  2. I would be lost without my mini-me. He does all the up close inspections. I hope you can replace yours.
  3. Where they are wasn’t my question, it seemed from the photo they were sitting not on the hull but on two strips of molding, which doesn’t seem to be very secure. Perhaps they are cut with groove beneath for the molding and attached the hull and I just didn’t see it from the photo. No big deal, just a question.
  4. Planking defines the model, nothing stands out or shows more. I like the process now that I have a good process for doing it. Like Derek I treat each plank as a project since each one is fairly unique and then the math of having them all fit correctly... Now making and rigging gun carriages, that’s repetitive and soul crushing, especially the teeny tiny ones I’m doing now. Even ratlines have more appeal.
  5. So the braces for those channels are fixed to the molding, that doesn’t seem very secure, or am I seeing it wrong?
  6. Thanks BE, these photos often reveal something I never saw even at workshop close I then feel a need to go back and correct, if I can find them without the photo 😊
  7. I’m a brush guy too, but the airbrush did a nice job on the gun carriages and allowed the scored line on the side to stand out, not sure that would happen with a brush i painted the hull with a brush, I line some character to stand out from the brush strokes.
  8. Assembled, rigged, and mounted the first cannon to figure out how I wanted to do them. These things are tiny. First challenge, the rope size was limited by what would fit in the kit ring/eyebolt. The weathering powder worked well on the resin cannons. My next post will be more detailed about how I got here, not another one photo wonder. Thanks for dropping by.
  9. No idea what the real white stuff looked like, but pale yellow would look sickly on a model in my opinion. I use Admiralty’s Paints Matt White on my hulls, for whatever reason Admiralty’s Dull White doesn’t cover well over large surfaces. Odd considering how well Dull Black does.
  10. Makes sense, I’ll cut them these the same way I did for Cheerful, not a problem. Maybe I was getting use to seeing the 95% part😁
  11. Embracing airbrushing. Kinda fun once I got the hang of it. I still prefer the brush for most things but the airbrush is a great add to my workshop.
  12. It looks like you’ve sanded the deadwood area at the stern to accommodate both plankings at the thickness of the sternpost (which you don’t attach until after the second planking). Once you have the bulkheads squared up and glued into place the next step is fairing the hulls, sanding them front to back so that a batten (thin long plank) lays smoothing across all bulkheads most of the char should be gone when you’re done. Use the search function for Lady Nelson builds, between looking at all of them, the Amati video, and the instructions you’ll be able to determine next steps in the build sequence a see examples how to do it.
  13. I deleted that because I went and checked what was used, turns out it was neither shellac or varnish but something more high end. I also deleted it because it really wasn’t relevant, just frustration with so many my way is better than all other way comments. My edit better reflects my point. where are the links to your work so we can see your way in the form of results, my links are below?
  14. I seriously doubt a hull coated in shellac would survive a dunking in alcohol, that’s a bit silly. However, I look forward to seeing your Flirt finished in a hard coat of shellac once you start it. I actually don’t know how you botch something you wipe on and off with a cloth, that would take effort. A can of WOP, which will last for multiple models, cost $12.98 and is at the consistency I desire. Why would anyone waste time, energy or effort buying $14.97 pint of polyurethane and $21.95 quart of mineral spirits to mix their own. I can afford $13 every three models. I never understand why some feel compelled to convince others their way is the only way. If we know anything it’s that there are many ways to accomplish the same thing, I don’t need to validate my choices by denigrating the choices of others. I’m moving on from this post, content in the lasting beauty of my WOP finished models and no plans to buy shellac.
  15. CA is perfectly ok to use with rigging if sparingly used with a very light touch. Clear Matte acrylic is a good alternative but without the holding power. Seems like learning to seize lines to blocks is the skill you need for next time. Sorry to say in my experience and in my opinion once the CA is there in excess and dried there isn’t much to do except regret not redoing it when you look at it later. As Chris noted the clear acrylic might help, but really the thing to do is do it over after learning to seize lines. I don’t think any of us tie bowline knots on models. There is no magic solution.
  16. Again we’re all entitled to opinions informed by experience, or not. As I said earlier these types of posts incite all sorts of opinions posed as preferred methods. Ultimately the builder has to experiment, develop the necessary skills to do it well, and choose their own best course. Then later in your experience curve you can reply to posts like these with your opinion. Bottom line, as these type of posts prove over and over, there are as many options, methods, and opinions as there are model enthusiasts. A lot of them even work.
  • Create New...