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Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, JacquesCousteau said:

I'm curious to see how the mini saw blade works

 Jacques, please remember to wear eye protection when using the cutting wheels as they break apart pretty easy and at high speed their flight path seems to be directed straight at the user.  

Edited by Keith Black

Current Builds: Sternwheeler from the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

Posted
56 minutes ago, Keith Black said:

 Jacques, please remember to wear eye protection when using the cutting wheels as they break apart pretty easy and at high speed their flight path seems to be directed straight at the user.  

Excellent reminder, thanks!

Posted

On this point: in case you don't have yet protective glasses, watch out for those that look like the ones used by cyclists, they are lightweight, have narrow frames and enclose the eyes because they are close-fitting - much more comfortable than the traditional, big ones. There are also variants that have loupe inserts at the inside lower corners.

 

I found that, as I am getting older, I am wearing more and more another pair that has +3 loupes as glasses. They are bit bigger than the ones above. However, the cyclist-type may now also be available as loupes these days. I bought mine at least ten years ago.

 

One of those pen-type cord-less drills was given to me by my wife as Christmas present a while ago. As they were originally intended for engraving glass, their speed is too high for my taste, thus being quite aggressive. I also find it inconvenient, that it starts with the highest speed and then cycles down. Likewise, I would prefer hands-free control - I run all my machines off foot-switches. Perhaps they should have integrated a voice control ;) 

 

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks, @wefalck, for the glasses suggestion. Light ones would certainly be nice, and I may look into them as an upgrade, for now I'm using the big bulky pair we already have.

 

It's been a while since my last post. Unfortunately, there's not much to report on this build. I would quite like to get back to it, but work has been very hectic and I've focused my limited modeling time on the Lancha Chilota, so I haven't been able to cut out any more frames. In any case, I need longer bolts to properly set up the building cradle, which has proven substantially more difficult than I anticipated. Somehow, none of the many hardware shops I've visited have bolts that are long enough, and they don't seem to be available here online, either. At this point, my best bet looks to be to buy a long length of threaded rod, have it cut to size, and use that plus extra nuts and washers in place of the bolt (which will also require drilling bigger holes in the building cradle, which in turn requires buying a bigger bit and bringing the cradle to the carpentry workshop so I can use their drill press). Hopefully the cutting process doesn't damage the threads at the end and make it impossible to add nuts. Alternately, I suppose I could try to make wooden supports to replace the bolts, although I worry about my ability to get them vertical enough. These sorts of tedious issues have been enough of a headache to block things the few times I've had the time and inclination to try to resume work on the Bateau.

 

All of which is to say, this build will pick back up again at some point, hopefully sooner rather than later.

Posted

Normally, one should get threaded rod from M3 (or imperial equivalents) upwards. Cutting such rods with a hacksaw is easy and one can use a file to bevel the ends of the rod so that the nuts fit over them. If you have one, you can also use a small triangular file to clean up the threads - they have the same 60° angle (or perhaps 55°, if imperial threads).

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
Posted
2 hours ago, wefalck said:

Cutting such rods with a hacksaw is easy and one can use a file to bevel the ends of the rod so that the nuts fit over them.

 And you can screw on a nut before cutting the rod allowing the nut to chase the threads once the cut is made. 

Current Builds: Sternwheeler from the Susquehanna River's Hard Coal Navy

                            Wood Hull Screw Frigate USS Tennessee

                            Decorative Carrack Warship Restoration, the Amelia

 

Completed: 1870's Sternwheeler, Lula

                      1880s Floating Steam Donkey Pile Driver                       

                       Early Swift 1805 Model Restoration

 

 

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