Greg Davis Posted August 23 Author #31 Posted August 23 I decided to add the bow filler blocks so that I could make a nicer transition from the sides to front of the hull. In particular, I don't think I could have come close to forming the concave dip that forms on the first bulkhead. Of course this means I've taken the tack that requires this buff bow to be planked! More shaping, especially on the port side, and now very close to the profile dictated by the kit's bulkheads as I'm starting to sand off laser char most everywhere. Besides the midship bulge, there is a rough transition that needs attention near the third bulkhead from the back. JacquesCousteau, clearway, Ronald-V and 1 other 4
clearway Posted August 23 #32 Posted August 23 15 hours ago, Greg Davis said: this means I've taken the tack that requires this buff bow to be planked! I found planking on the bow of my Terror wasn't that bad- that weird little bulge Occre created midships was a bit of fun though! I wish i had done like my Erebus and scratched new frames forward and aft of the midship section. Keith
Greg Davis Posted August 23 Author #33 Posted August 23 18 minutes ago, clearway said: I found planking on the bow of my Terror wasn't that bad- that weird little bulge Occre created midships was a bit of fun though! I wish i had done like my Erebus and scratched new frames forward and aft of the midship section. Keith Yep that’s an issue, looks like Occre cut in too fast! Am I right that the whole hull seems short compared to Betts’ model?
catopower Posted August 23 #34 Posted August 23 8 minutes ago, Greg Davis said: Yep that’s an issue, looks like Occre cut in too fast! Am I right that the whole hull seems short compared to Betts’ model? Would be odd, since they copied his work. Clare Hess He's a -> "HE" Current Builds: Kitamaebune - 18th/19th Century Japanese Coastal Trade Ship Atakebune - Japanese Sengoku Period Warship Recent Builds: Yacht Mary 1660 HMS Wolf 1754
clearway Posted August 24 #35 Posted August 24 I think the entryway/ gunports are maybe a bit out- when i measured Occres hull it came out at the right length and their Erebus is 12mm too short as they used Terrors hull- not sure if they have amended it but if memory serves the ice bumber should be 20mm below the capping rail and the deck 15mm.
Greg Davis Posted Tuesday at 11:04 PM Author #36 Posted Tuesday at 11:04 PM On 8/23/2025 at 1:03 PM, catopower said: Would be odd, since they copied his work. Too bad they didn't copy better! On 8/24/2025 at 1:54 PM, clearway said: I think the entryway/ gunports are maybe a bit out- when i measured Occres hull it came out at the right length and their Erebus is 12mm too short as they used Terrors hull- not sure if they have amended it but if memory serves the ice bumber should be 20mm below the capping rail and the deck 15mm. Is there any substantial difference between the Terror and Erebus kits?
Greg Davis Posted Tuesday at 11:09 PM Author #37 Posted Tuesday at 11:09 PM Shaping, shaping, shaping ... But progress is being made and I am now going to change from 120 grit to 180 grit in order to finish the shaping. (I started with 80 grit sandpaper.) Here are some pictures I took to help me see where there are symmetry 'issues'. SiriusVoyager and JacquesCousteau 2
Greg Davis Posted Wednesday at 06:27 PM Author #38 Posted Wednesday at 06:27 PM Debated this for a bit, but decided to attach the false deck now. clearway and SiriusVoyager 2
clearway Posted Wednesday at 06:34 PM #39 Posted Wednesday at 06:34 PM (edited) 19 hours ago, Greg Davis said: Is there any substantial difference between the Terror and Erebus kits? They used thinner strip around the stern windows which does give a better looking transom than their Terror kit, instead of lasercut ply they used walnut for the keel, prow, etc - its best to read through my Erebus log as i did a review on there and have highlighted any differences i had to make -i.e. position of bowsprit, but everything else -masts, bulwarks etc is identical. Keith Edited Wednesday at 06:36 PM by clearway missed info
Greg Davis Posted Wednesday at 07:41 PM Author #40 Posted Wednesday at 07:41 PM 1 hour ago, clearway said: They used thinner strip around the stern windows which does give a better looking transom than their Terror kit, instead of lasercut ply they used walnut for the keel, prow, etc - its best to read through my Erebus log as i did a review on there and have highlighted any differences i had to make -i.e. position of bowsprit, but everything else -masts, bulwarks etc is identical. Keith Thanks! this version of Terror has walnut keel, etc. clearway 1
Maid of the Mist Posted Wednesday at 07:43 PM #41 Posted Wednesday at 07:43 PM Looking good. Nice and sleek. Why did the original bulkheads have a bulge midships? Greg Davis 1
clearway Posted Wednesday at 09:28 PM #42 Posted Wednesday at 09:28 PM 1 hour ago, Maid of the Mist said: Why did the original bulkheads have a bulge midships? i think when occre originally used Matthews plans without his permission they didn't see the bit where he mentioned on his blog there are deliberate mistakes on the images of the frames to prevent copying hence the incorrect hull shape! Geowolf, Harvey Golden and Greg Davis 2 1
Maid of the Mist Posted Thursday at 04:11 PM #43 Posted Thursday at 04:11 PM That's funny 😁 I would have thought a professional kit maker like OcCre would redraw everything in CAD and test-build prototypes. Even a minor error would get ironed out in that process, never mind a massive bulge in the hull. clearway and Greg Davis 2
Greg Davis Posted Friday at 02:04 AM Author #44 Posted Friday at 02:04 AM Unexpectedly workers showed up at the dockyard to begin laying the deck planking! Space for 11 strakes are being laid in a four butt shift using 8cm planks made from Holly. I'm using the NRG Thin Strip Saw Jig to cut the planks 0.7mm thick. The kit supplied planks are quoted at 0.5mm. Once the deck is sanded, the thickness should be just fine. First I tried to cut the strips using a slitting blade, but the Holly was not cutting clean (it was burning a bit) so I changed to the standard carbide blade and the work is now going well - even though I lose more wood to the blade than is in an individual plank! clearway 1
Maid of the Mist Posted Friday at 07:32 PM #45 Posted Friday at 07:32 PM Are your dock workers doing caulking, Greg? My workers have had mixed experiences with using pencil caulking, including one who foolishly used a 6B pencil and smudged the deck.
Greg Davis Posted yesterday at 12:51 AM Author #46 Posted yesterday at 12:51 AM 5 hours ago, Maid of the Mist said: Are your dock workers doing caulking, Greg? My workers have had mixed experiences with using pencil caulking, including one who foolishly used a 6B pencil and smudged the deck. No, they're not interested in keeping water from entering the joints. But your caulking came out nicely on Beagle! Actually, I've never 'caulked' planking on any of my models. Currently, I prefer the subtle look that is generated after applying a finish to the planking, especially at the smaller scales. Similarly, I won't be using any treenails on this model. I have seen some models where caulking (and tree nailing) has been done impressively well. I would love to be able to do similar work, but at this point I don't have enough interest in this type of detail to spend the time to learn how to do it! At this point in my skill development, I am more interested in becoming more proficient with the spray gun, with the soldering unit, and miniature carving.
Greg Davis Posted yesterday at 12:54 AM Author #47 Posted yesterday at 12:54 AM Mid-portion of deck planked. Time to make up a lot of 2.5mm wide strips for the diagonal planks - I think I counted in excess of 250 such planks on Betts' deck plan! JacquesCousteau 1
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