USS Constitution by lambsbk – Revell – 1/96 - PLASTIC – With Fiber Optics

[lambsbk]

The brushes are Spotter 18/0 and 20/0 bought at either Michaels or Hobby Lobby.

Edited May 10, 2013 by lambsbk

[RadMan]

Hmmm, I didn't even realize they made brushed that small.  The smallest I have is a Italeri 10/0 synthetic.  I guess I will start looking for smaller brushes. 

[lambsbk]

I am going to have to scrap my brace design for the gun deck. I just can't quite get the gentle camber reproduced EXACTLY twice. So I used the radius of an arc equasion to get the radius of the camber for the 1:96 Connie to 50". I made a jig to run a brace through this arc on a sander and am hoping to get some reproducibility with it... I'll know in a couple of days.

[texxn5]

Nice build, I'll be looking forward to your posts and pictures. The lights would make a nice addition, unfortunately, I'm way past this at this point. Some thing I would do on mine if I could, is to use a wood planked main deck. It really would imporove mine, however, once again, too late. I think I would use a frame under the deck, and then plank the deck actually not worrying about the gun deck below since it is really hard to see, especially once the yards and Studding Sail Booms are rigged. Anyway, just my opinion. Good luck, and it really looks good.

John

[lambsbk]

Thanks Texxn5. I thought that might be the case as well so the forward gun ports will be left vacant. I hope that will help site through some of the Gun deck. Even if it does not I am still enjoying adding detail that does not come with the kit. The 'how to do it' is fun to work out.

[lambsbk]

The gun deck camber CAN be established using the radius of an arc method with a 50" radius and it is reproducible. I used a bench sander with a 6" disc and attached it to a 50" arm and arced through the disc. These will be cut into 3/8" wide supports. The plastic deck however does not give the camber effect with a brace on either end of the 3 deck pieces so I will be gluing wood beneath the deck at 2" intervals to give the proper camber to the deck.

Edited May 10, 2013 by lambsbk

[texxn5]

Hi, this is really starting to look good. Your light project is something I probably should have done looking back. That's a nice addition especially since there is a lot of unseen detail on the innards' of the ship. I hope that turns out well for you...keep it up...

[lambsbk]

Thanks, John for the encouragement. I am enjoying the build.

[lambsbk]

The gun deck fore section turned out well but I did not anticipate a difference in the thickness of the deck sections. I corrected that with styrene on the aft section but had to file the foreward mid-deck section to give a smooth transition. The completed foredeck camber is pictured below and I will update with a pic of the completed gun deck in a few days. Hopefully the sections will a align well.

Edited May 2, 2013 by lambsbk

[lambsbk]

Maybe some of you more experienced folks can answer this: I have noticed a 'wearing' effect on some of the earliest painted parts (specifically the gold color on the figurehead area) which will need touch-up. I worry that the transom may be next although no signs of wear are yet apparent here. Is that kind of wear typical or should I be using a clear sealant to protect these enamels from erosion?

 

 

(moved to the paint techniques section 05/03/2013)

Edited May 3, 2013 by lambsbk

[slagoon]

I'd suggest you put this particular question in the "Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques" more people who can help may see it there. The question I'd pose to you is how many coats of enamel have you put on the parts that are wearing?

 

[lambsbk]

Thank you for the advice. I will move the post. I have put 2 coats of gold Testors enamel.

[texxn5]

Testors makes some paint "pens", that work very well for fine details. They make a Gold Leaf that is excellent and also a white. All looks good. Keep it up. I hope to maybe finish the Braces in step 7 of the Running Rigging perhaps today. The end is actually getting in sight for the first time....

[lambsbk]

Thanks John. I saw your build is nearing completion. It looks great. I look forward to seeing it completed.

[texxn5]

Thanks Dave, completion is approaching. Realistically probably a couple of weeks out. I don't get to work on her continuously.

[lambsbk]

Well, just an update. I had a bit of a slow weekend as far as Connie progress. The deck camber is established with the under-deck bracing. I am now in the process of adding the eye bolts to the gun carriages and bulwark. Although each gun is supposed to have has it's own set of eye bolts to attach to the tackle on the bulwark I will have to place one eye bolt between the ports for the guns adjacent to each other to share.

[lambsbk]

This is a pretty good pic of the camber effect on the aft deck.

[lambsbk]

Cannon port doors are secured open.

[lambsbk]

Bulwark eye bolts port side installed to anchor additional gun tackle.

[RadMan]

Hey Dave, the detail on your decks are beautiful.  I hope I can produce a similar effect.

 

As for the wear, I was worried about this from the beginning, which is why I waited to paint the hull until now.  However, for the parts I handle frequently, I keep them covered with a nice fat piece of frog tape.  The frog tape doesn't leave residue and protects the parts I handled from accidental paint-fingerprint accidents as well as from wear.

 

The build keeps looking better and better.  Keep up the good work.

 

Rick

Edited May 7, 2013 by RadMan

[lambsbk]

It's a good idea. I am afraid I have a lot of touch up painting to do. Nothing is lost that can not be re-done though (yet).

Edited May 7, 2013 by lambsbk

[texxn5]

Thanks for all the input Dave, I wish I would have done the decks like you did ... it would have made a big difference...you're looking good keep it up, let me know if you need anything....

John

[lambsbk]

I have been trying to work out the block size for the gun tackle. I am going to explain my methods in hopes that you more experienced modeler's can correct my math if it is in error. The only source I have for the block size is the below photo which I printed in 8 x 10" format. The angle to the block above the harness cask will be used. The scale is ratioed from the gun breech which is easy to measure in both the photo and the model. The block is viewed with a combination of 2 angles: 1) the angle of the camera to the block and in addition 2) the angle of the block to the bulwark. The block to camera angle is approx. 23 degrees and the tackle to the bulwark apprx. 40 degrees for a total of 63 degrees. The sin of 63 is .891. The inverse is needed to multiply the length so 1/.891 is 1.122. The block in the photo is 24/64" so multiplying I come up with a total length if veiwed from the block sideways of 27/64". The eye and hook work out to 25/64" using the same method. In my photo which I printed at 8 x 10" the gun breech is 45/64" and on the model it is 12.5/64". The ratio is therefore 0.277. Multiplying this ratio to the apparent block size makes the block size on the 1/96 model of 7.5/64" (the hook and block eye add another 6.9/64 inches). The "A" size block is 8/64". That is pretty close...and I THINK I can accurately use them for the tackle.

Edited May 13, 2013 by lambsbk

[texxn5]

Dave, I don't know it this site will help, but you might see what you need. Look at the photos real close. If not this is a beautiful model anyway. detail oriented ...

John

 

http://www.modelingmadness.com/review/misc/ships/carcon.htm

[russ]

The 7 1/2" block size for the gun tackles will be okay I think. No more than 9". For scale's sake, I think the smaller size would be better. Actually, the 7 1/2" long blocks work out pretty well compared to what the contemporary sources say for blocks with about 2" circumference gun tackles, which is probably close to what we are looking at for 24 pounders.  .

 

Russ

Edited May 13, 2013 by russ

[lambsbk]

John: I had seen this on the web...a very good detail peice with the sails and how about that water! Thanks.

 

Russ: thanks for the feed back.

 

I'll get started on these next week.

[texxn5]

Yes, his diorama is one of the best I've seen.  You could almost be walking on the deck there.  That water is incredible as well as his attention to detail.....even down to the pegleg sailor.  Another reference could be to look at Model Shipways site on the 24 pounder naval cannon.  It has a deck and bulwarks where the cannon is rigged correctly.  I have that one if some pictures would help.  Just let me know and I'll post them for you.  It has the proper scale blocks and tackle and is 1:24 scale, so you could adjust the scale to 1:96 fairly easy.  I can also measure anything for you also.  Hope this helps,

John 

[lambsbk]

John: I would love to see those in the MS format. Thanks.

[texxn5]

OK, no problem. I am in the middle of trading vehicles and will be gone this afternoon. I'll try to post the pictures for you tonight or in the morning at the latest. I think you'll be able to get some hints from these.

John

[lambsbk]

Russ: I don't know if I can get the block down to 1/16". Were you talking about the width or the length of the block. I am a bit naive here. Thanks.