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Posted

Thanks for the reply! The top of the opening will by be cleaned up. The elevator will be in the up position. The crane isn’t glued in as I will glue in the overhang, too. The older version I’m modeling differed a bit from that of the kit, so I’m having to build extra stuff. Thanks for all you’ve done!

Posted

What is the best color to paint the flight deck? I’ve spent many hours on one but not sure if the 60s era decks were same color. I plane on doing an underway dio. The deck won’t be a solid/single color as they heavily weathered. Just looking for the base color. Something like black-grey? 

Posted (edited)

Thanks for that. The newer refits look much darker than the older ones and all are heavily weathered. Almost impossible to get a color, much less a near FS match. Fresh out the factory newer ones would be a black non-skid, so I may go with a dark grey (fs36076) lightened/toned with different colors. One thing for sure, all images show multi tones. 
 

Also, looking at the decals for the deck markings, there is so much carrier film I’d spent far too much time trimming, so decided to paint them. The decals are 2mm wide and I happen to have 2mm Tamiya tape. Will do the same for the # 11, as there are no decals for that. From the images they appear to be the same width as the markings, so 2mm they are.   The older version of the ship had the numbers at both ends of the flight deck. 
 

But I’m not there yet, just planning ahead. Now, something I’ve ran into is that kit supplied life raft cases aren’t square shaped as in the old photos (mounted on walkway railings), but rather a pill shape. Haven’t been able to source any of those, so I may have to go out of era on that. 
 

Edit: found some by Model Monkey (1/350 early Cold War era life raft cases). Not sure if they are legit. 

Edited by Spaceman Spiff
Posted (edited)

Thank you everyone, for the kind comments and patronage!

Funny story about our business name.  We knew from marketing principles to keep the name simple, choose one that directly relates to what we were selling, and be memorable.  An animal helps make the name memorable.  And we're located near the Cape Fear River, home to a very large, aquatic salamander with skin covered in a protective mucus from which the salamander gets its very memorable name (photo below).  So, after much consideration, our business name came down to two choices: Model Monkey or Snot Otter Hobbies.

 

We settled on Model Monkey®.

 

Thanks again!

 

Steve Larsen

Owner, designer, printer, and chief bottle washer at Model Monkey LLC.

 

snot otter.jpg

Edited by SteveLarsen
Better photo.
Posted

The tubs we offer have an internal working diameter of 15.46 mm, accounting for interior ribs.  If the diameter of your mounts is less than 15.46 mm, your mounts should fit our tubs nicely.

 

The tubs are designed for printing in groups of 3.  I can make available a set of 3 and you can order as many sets as you need.

 

Cheers!

Posted

I just found your build and have spent the last hour reading.  You are a patient and persistent modeller.  I think this model would have seen a trash bin if I had been building.  I love battleships, cruisers and destroyers.  I had looked at Iron Shipwrights, as they have some great subjects, but now I am very hesitant.   The first issue is I have never worked with resin; the second issue; it looks like resin is much, much different and more difficult than polystyrene.  Would you buy another kit from Iron Shipwrights?

Current Build:  HMS Dreadnought - PLASTIC - Waterline

Completed Builds:  USS Cairo by BlueJacket;  Nave Egizia by Amati;  Harriet Lane by Model Shipways

Posted
12 hours ago, SteveLarsen said:

The tubs we offer have an internal working diameter of 15.46 mm, accounting for interior ribs.  If the diameter of your mounts is less than 15.46 mm, your mounts should fit our tubs nicely.

 

The tubs are designed for printing in groups of 3.  I can make available a set of 3 and you can order as many sets as you need.

 

Cheers!

The gun mount is 13mm across so should fit. How do I go about adding it to my existing order? Too bad you don’t make those gun mounts, as the kit ones are crap. 

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, rcmdrvr said:

I just found your build and have spent the last hour reading.  You are a patient and persistent modeller.  I think this model would have seen a trash bin if I had been building.  I love battleships, cruisers and destroyers.  I had looked at Iron Shipwrights, as they have some great subjects, but now I am very hesitant.   The first issue is I have never worked with resin; the second issue; it looks like resin is much, much different and more difficult than polystyrene.  Would you buy another kit from Iron Shipwrights?

Thanks for the kind words. Resin is a whole different ball game. Far more difficult. You’ve seen my issues, and those are the ones I’ve posted. I’d have thrown it away, but it’s the only game in town for Dad’s ship. 
 

Would I buy another kit from them? Not only no, but hell no. 
 

Edit: So many parts have holes/bubbles, misshapen, bent, etc. very poor quality control. Several of the walkways were not included, so I’ve had to remake them out of sheet styrene. 

Edited by Spaceman Spiff
Posted
12 hours ago, rcmdrvr said:

I just found your build and have spent the last hour reading.  You are a patient and persistent modeller.  I think this model would have seen a trash bin if I had been building.  I love battleships, cruisers and destroyers.  I had looked at Iron Shipwrights, as they have some great subjects, but now I am very hesitant.   The first issue is I have never worked with resin; the second issue; it looks like resin is much, much different and more difficult than polystyrene.  Would you buy another kit from Iron Shipwrights?

If you are not familiar with resin better stay away of such messy and big kits.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, SteveLarsen said:

Just let me know how many sets of 3 you need and I will add them to your existing order.  I'll have PayPal send you an invoice.

 

Thanks so much!

Just one. In reality, all I need is one tub. Thanks!!! 
 

Check your DMs

Edited by Spaceman Spiff
Posted

I wouldn't give up on resin, based on one manufacturer.I believe this kit is one of their first issues. Their resin then has been replaced by better resins for we modelers. The resins do use CA glue, not plastic cements of wood glues. Look at the detail parts you get from Model Monkey and other aftermarket providers. They are superbly detailed. And there are some plastic kit makers who do limited run kits with no alignment pins, which will give many folks fits. Search around on various websites to get an idea on who makes the model closest to what you want to build. I use scalemates.com, steelnavy.net and modelwarships.com to begin a search.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

Posted

I primarily build aircraft(1/48) but wanted to do Dad’s ship. While there may be decent resin models, have yet to see one that surpasses plastic. And they are generally much, much more expensive with twice the work. Yet, it’s about skill, etc. 

 

This one taught me a lot and I’m in the home stretch of building. Just a bit of PE to add, prime, and paint. I do need to check Dads cruise book again to make sure it had the little mini mast behind the island - some pics show it and some have it removed (not refitted but old with same armament, etc). Also purchased PE hose reels as found on the walkways. Need to also add cabinets, etc, because walkways were cluttered for most part. 
 

All walkways have been installed and are ready for PE. I’ll try to post pics tonight. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks again for the kind words. The walkways are on. Have to build antenna mounts for the forward port walkways, add PE, assemble weapons, etc. The end is in sight. Although I will add PE after I paint the flight deck. 

attached are the latest. 
 

1441EF8F-6C7F-4C29-995B-CF8750C831E6.thumb.jpeg.da265fae01097d0493516bfd038a3214.jpeg475E626B-4C74-446B-BF65-2B1BE3B50B82.thumb.jpeg.a13b414543d17825a074c3a9171d7a60.jpeg4CDFF0B7-3222-4D9F-A34F-7320413DFC22.thumb.jpeg.986a88da2ef11d8a68c67971ac49138b.jpeg

Edited by Spaceman Spiff
Posted

Time for a most deserved shout out to Mr Steve Larsen, aka Model Monkey, for service and products above and beyond! 
 

Not only are the parts of exceptional quality, but they fit perfectly, as shown. The parts were packaged perfectly and arrived much faster than expected! Thank you, sir!!!! Highly recommended! 
 

875103FB-44C3-4DC1-8011-1700BC76CBDA.thumb.jpeg.37ecd6ab22afd55b45d3d532b105aedd.jpeg60AB8E6C-86B2-4933-A3C4-ED9BB26A79DB.thumb.jpeg.c1de98cba90fedfe2dfea853e0965a50.jpeg

 

Posted (edited)

I wasn’t able to to do very much to it over the weekend asides from spraying primer on the flight deck (Tamiya fine grey). A tape test shows it adheres well, so that’s good. I’ll try to spray white on it tonight where the markings will go. While that dries, I’ll turn my attention to the smaller mast-thing found behind the island and shown in the pic from Dad’s cruise book. Have no idea how that will be made. 


70AF27D6-90A8-4DF1-B2A0-3D26D35B4A35.thumb.jpeg.217cbb171be2a2c3c7e824772f02c45d.jpeg

47FD111C-854D-4615-BE8C-63ABF63C02C8.thumb.png.c13622bf0e2b3ae13754f3530f7abea5.png

Edited by Spaceman Spiff

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