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HMS BOUNTY by Capt.Fisher - Artesania Latina - 1:48


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Well, let me get onboard, too  :)

 

This will be my first lod in MSW. Hope to enjoy, as I already saw plenty of nice people here, and quite willing to help as well!

 

A short note about me - My name is Theodor, I live and work in Bulgaria. Used to be a Captain's mate on a fishing trawler long long ago.. (there comes 'Capt.Fisher' as you can guess). So still there's some salt in my blood, which could explain my attitude to this amazing hobby.

I have already given it a try with a nice 1:150 GOLDEN STAR by Mantua. Never finished the rigging... Decided to skip and go to the real thing - 1:48

 

And there she came - a nice birthday present :

 

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Nice looking, half open model of one of the most famous sailing ships in the history. What added to my choice was the presence of full detailed information about anything on that vessel  -John McKey's Anatomy..  , as well as some pretty detailled and highly professional build logs on the net, especially in Russian forums. Plus a couple of nice movies starring The Bounty, where you can see it from inside 'in real' :))

 

Well, the kit is here, the workshop is equipped well enough... All we need now is time, time, time .... for work, work, work...

 

First pictures will follow soon.

 

Regards everyone

 

Capt.Fisher

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To both Capt. Fisher and Kannon, take my advice and I'm sure it would be seconded by many on here ... inventory all your parts before you do anything. It was also helpful for me to identify all the laser cut parts by number and put those numbers right on the part itself while its still in its template. Its a great time saver when looking for something and the numbering will come right off with an eraser or swipe of sandpaper. Another hint which will make this easier... there should be two versions of printed pages showing these parts in their templates. One is a big one, 1:1 scale and the other is small, on a 8x11 sheet. I didn't find the big one til I had almost given up trying to read the numbers on the small sheet. Look for the big one; its part of the rigging plans I believe. Finally, find a good way to measure your sticks. Most of them are big enough to measure with any metric device, be it a ruler or calipers or ??. But some are very small, like 1.5 x 1.5 mm and its tough to tell that from 2 x 2 or 1.5 x 2 with the naked eye. It may turn out that you do not have what they say you should. In my case I swear there is no 1.5 x 1.5 African Walnut, only 2 x 2 mm AW. Now it could be that I'm just not measuring accurately, but I've used different tools and that was my conclusion. This is no big deal, however, you must make some adjustments to the dimensions given for building some pieces to account for the added .5 mm. I didn't and my log explains the consequences. But hopefully you will find the 1.5s. I sorted all strip wood and labeled them by size and type. Now its very easy to find the right wood for a part. Nothing more to add except have fun.

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Same box as mine ....

 

Which means that you can see the picture! Great so far!

 

Here we go further then:

 

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Keel was layed on Nov.3rd 2013  

Champain for all!

 

 

 

Then we go to the lower decks

 

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Maybe you wonder what's that?

Its my first experiment for caulking and nailing. What I did was leave 0.5 mm between the planks, drill 0.5 mm holes, then fill it with fine grouting mortar of anthracite color. I was aiming at a double effect - imitating nails and caulks plus staining the wood and bringing some aging effect.

 

So here's the result after sanding:

 

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By my own estimation this experiment lead to average result. Decided not to repeat it on the upper decks.

 

 

Final looks of the lower decks in place:

 

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Edited by Capt.Fisher
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My Lord Theo you have caught up to me in 3 days. Its taken me 3 months to get that lower deck cabin and stairs in. I suppose you'll be working on pot racks next and be ready for your main deck by Monday. Your work looks good. I'm impressed with how well your beams lay and how tight the deck appears to be laying on them. I have had to use shims here and there to make the beams and deck level. I'm curious as to how you made up your windows. We had a discussion on my log on various ways to do it. I scored the acetate and used a wet erase marker to darken the lines. Are you going to build in any type of railing around your stair well and a hand hold of some sort? I want to do this as I can't believe the real ship did not have something. Pretty good fall for even a hearty sailor down into the bilge. Just about 2 meters.

But that's just me again looking for something to do to avoid the hard work of decking and planking that is to come. You are getting along nicely. I tip my cap to you mate.

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Ha-ha! Al, you made me smile! 

I could be anything but FAST!

Maybe you didn't read carefully my first post - I started this project beg.October. I started this log only now and decided to start posting pics from the very beginning.

The truth is that I an in a great shortage of free time.. I spend maybe 3-5 hours a week in my wonderful shipyard. I wish I could make them 3-5 hours per day, but I'm afraid this would crash my family wellbeing  ;)   

So, here are some more pics, and very very soon I am catching up and start posting them in real time. And as you will see - this will be slow!

 

 

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So you've blown your own cover.  I really thought you were speedy Gonzales (that's an old American expression which I hope, nowadays, isn't too politically incorrect).  What you're saying is that some of the pictures were taken months ago.  OK, but still, working a few hours a week seems like you get a lot done when you do have the time.  So I have a couple of questions.  First, how many staircases does your model have?  Mine provides 5 sets of material to build 5, but the instructions indicate only making up 4 and the pictures only seem to show those 4.  I'm wondering if the 5th is extra?  The other question I have is your technique of planking the main deck.  Were those pins used as spacers between planks so you will have somewhere to put caulk?  I thought at first you were using the pins to hold down the planks but they look like they are inserted between them.  If so, what will you be using to caulk the seams?  And finally, it looks like you plank over all the hatch and grate openings.  What do you then do?  Do you turn it up side down and cut out the holes?  So far on the two lower decks I've done I have planked around the openings.  It has worked out that most of the time its only the length of a plank that needs to be cut.  The width of the planks seem to have been planned to come right to the edges of the holes and not much further.  Maybe just enough to smooth out with a file or sand paper.  I've been afraid to do it your way, thinking that any tool I have to cut through the underside of the planks will leave a mess of splinters up top.

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If I can interfere with someone elses build I would suggest Al that you mark out where the holes will be as you plank over them. You can then cut down on the planks covering the holes with a really sharp xacto afterwards and just file or sandpaper the edges

.

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Regarding planking over the holes...I will stay on this log and if need be go to PMs later.  I hear what you're saying Mike and I've tried cutting across grain with an exacto in other areas.  Even with material that is only .6 mm I can't get it done cleanly.  I'm using brand new, out of the box blades and still they don't seem sharp enough to cut cleanly through the fiber.  Mine is rawmin.  I never heard of this wood and can't find reference to it anywhere.  Maybe its just another name for some more common wood.  Or maybe just a bad translation. ;)   Are there differing grades of exacto blades?  If I do decide to give it a go with the knife, I would first make a paper template of the plywood and then when all the planks have covered over the holes, I'd lay down the template and copy the hole outlines back onto the planks.  Is that what you meant by marking where the holes will be? 

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Al,

you got it right - the pins are used as spacers. As they appeared to be the right size (0.5mm), this was the easiest method I could think of to keep the seams calibrated.

Caulking was done by filling the seams with brown putty. I use some special one - acrylic or sth similar - which does a great job to me. 

 

post-6850-0-34011400-1396781522_thumb.jpg

 

Then comes sanding...

That's why I planked all openings - you get better results with sanding this way.

 

Here's what I got after first round of sanding

 

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Next came drilling holes for the "nails". 

 

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.... and 'nails'themselves.....

 

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Strange, but I do not have a pic of the main deck ready. Maybe because I still have not made the final sanding and shaping of the openings. Rough idea of what is looks like you can get on that pic, showing the beginning of planking

 

post-6850-0-24304900-1396782812_thumb.jpg

 

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Whatever you're doing you are doing it well.  Very nice work.  On my main deck I will try planking over the holes.  Seems like it will go faster and if I follow your's and Mike's suggestions I might not ruin the deck.  I'm still curious about how many stairwells your kit has Theo.  If you can, would you count them and let me know.  I don't want to rack my brain trying to find a non-existent 5th stairwell.

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Yes Al, It appears that I also have enough timber to make 5 stairs, though the plans shows 4 only. 

The stairs in this kit is one of the things that are completely wrong I think. Wrong numner, wrong place, no railing.... Anyway, it's just a model  :)

 

 

Here are some pics of the next stage - planking

 

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Edited by Capt.Fisher
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it's not easy Mike...

Please note that when we have single planking each and every piece of wood should be  laid as it is meant to be, because it remains there worever.

I still do not understand why you worry so much about your planking?!?  As Al said it plain - first layer is nothing but the base to the second one. What you need it to be is strong and even. And even you make it by hard sanding. 

What worries me more with your planking (i dont want to be rude, but just have to mention..) is the way you lay the planks after the middle. All planks should be parralel to the main deck, not to the waterline as you have layed them. I hope you know that and will do it proper with the first layer.

 

Regarding my model - I do not have a better picture of the port side available, but I can take and send you. What exactly do you want to see?

I am about to finish planking these days, 5-6 more layers to go.. I think I learned how to make the bloody stealers, it took me some time. 

Yet, my planking is far from perfect - Too much carcas... hope sanding will not lead to a hole in the hull. And another thing is I cannot make planks tight enough to each other... My next ship - if there is going to be a next one - will definitely be double planked! Its much more comfortable and easy to work with thin venier on a smooth solid base

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Many thanks, I do appreciate that as a first planking it is to provide a sound base for the second. I am trying to get my head around the whole idea though so that my second effort is better. As for the plank direction, this has been mentioned before. It seems my mistake was following the instructions and that is how they say to do it.

I have gone too far with it now to remove everything and start again so I will have to reach a compromise of sorts.

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Theo, you are a god send.  Your pictures should be published in the kit's instructions instead of the vague, almost finished ones they provide.  By seeing your's I am getting a real good idea of how this whole planking job needs to go.  And thanks for clearing up the issue of stairs, 4 or 5.  It was making me crazy trying to find that 5th stairway.  You noted that the stairs are not very authentic in several ways.  I found that true as well and made a couple enhancements to fix the problems.  I am planning to do some computer work today and post pictures, but just for the record, what I did was add a footer to give the staircase some decent gluing surface (I am a firm believer in making things stay in place once they are put down), and I added the missing railings cause I wouldn't want anyone to get hurt.

 

I have two questions....First, it appears that you are holding the model down on the work pad using L brackets and (here's the Q) a bolt through the bottom ends of the keel.  Is that right?    And second question, are those bungey cords you are using to strap in the planking tight, or just cord with small springs on the ends?  Either way does that work pretty well?

 

Here's a couple pics of my stairs.  I guess I shouldn't butt into your log, but I can't help it.

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Hi Al

thanks for the kind words. it's always a pleasure to share any experience, which could be useful to others.

But, watch out! I am a newby too, and not a trustful resource at all!

 

Now, regarding the L-planks - the bolt that pulls them together goes beneath the keel and the planks clamp the keel without damaging it.

The cords are rubber sling, or bungee as you call them. I find them very useful and convenient for pressing the planks tight while the glue is dry. 

Later I found another method - better and faster, but that's another storry

 

Here are some very recent pics. In fact from now on I will be publishing 'real time' photos.

 

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OK, I see how the L brackets are held tight.  I have seen someone do something similar with the bolt going through the keel, and I looked at my ship and found places where that would be very doable.  But why go through the keel if you can go under it with the same effect.  With the brackets being metal and so totally rigid, anywhere you squeeze them together should give a tight and parallel sandwich.  Looking at your pictures also made me wonder if I was correct in thinking that my planking was going to be 1x5, so I went and checked.  I was wrong.  2x5 it is.  Mike, if you're reading this, no need any more to be jealous.  Final thought for now, you certainly have a beautiful work space Theo.  Do you plan on actually floating your Bounty when its water tight? ;)

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I am still here and very jealous. I am getting private tuition from cannon fodder as I am a complete dunce when it comes to this planking lark. I have already had to undo a load of work and am still not sure where to go.

I can however think of several places I could put this kit!!!!!

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Time for bad news...

Approaching the end of planking I counted the remaining planks and guess what - they are 5 short !!!! 
I want to kill someone!!!

The fact that I have 1 extra useless staircase does not hel me at all

I have absolutely no Idea how to solve this. It is hard to find readymade planks here. I should order from abroad, which will be funny, for 5 straws.... But even if I can somehow find planks, there is no wey they will match the others in colour and texture.

Bl**dy niggard manifacturer ...

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Oh dear! When you find someone to kill, let me know, I want to help!!!

I had been trying to get some more wood from AL for a completely different project. To say they are less than helpful is an understatement but they may 'sell' you the wood you are short of. Maybe if you can get in from the original supplier you might get a better colour match? I don't know, just a thought.

 

How on earth did you do all that planking so fast?

 

I have an extra staircase as well for OcCre. As I said to Al I am sure I saw somebody's build with a staircase going from the lowest deck to the bilge but I can't remember where, sorry. 

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Capt. Fisher, I think I have spare planks from when I built this boat. Unfortunately, it will be two weeks before I get back home and be able to post it to you. If you haven't managed to source planks by then, I will be more than happy to mail them to you at no cost. 

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Two more planks and she is ready!!! 
She looks scary at this stage, I'll post pics as soon as I finish the last plank, hopefully tomorrow.

Now when the time comes for hard sandwork, I want to ask another major question, which keeps me awake these days..:

 

We have a beautiful body, open from one side, full of furniture and other details, which of course we need to keep neat, tidy and clean.

But we also have a lot of sanding to do, with all that dust getting in everywhere..

So what is the right thing to do?  Clean, paint and install all details inside first, while hull is still wide open? and cover it all in dust after that

Or - wait till final sanding, cleaning and varnishing is done, dust removed from everywhere and only then go to complete the inner details (I mean plant pots, staircase, railing etc..), struggling with the very limited access problem.

Maybe somebody who have already gone through this can give a hint about how they did it?

 

thanks in advance 

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I must admit that the same potential problem occurred to me. I thought that once I had done my first planking, sanded it all down and sealed it I could then, after the final planking, cover the open hull before the final sanding. I know you only have to plank once which makes life more of a problem. I could only think of giving the whole boat a really good blasting with a powerful hairdryer to try and blow the dust out before too much varnishing.

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