Virginia 1819 by cmann - FINISHED - Artesania Latina

[cmann]

I have looked at one or two of the tutorial PDFs on this site - the first step is to divide the hull into four sections, then measure them to fit the planks.

I will have to taper the planks to fit them correctly but they also talk about cutting out curved planks from other pieces of wood, I am guessing that I wouldn't need to do this?

 

Also, if I look at other build logs here for this model it does not look like they have really done any measurements like this but instead just done it by eye.

[dgbot]

The choice is yours to make.  I would divide the hull with battens.  This way i would get an idea of how the planking should run.  Take your time.  Since this will be the first layer you do not have to be perfect.  There are many who just slap it on and then sand and fill.  By doing a little research and experimenting you will get a good idea on planking so that on the second layer you will get it right.  Then you can apply what you learned to the next model.

David B

[shoule]

 It's true that the first layer can be "slapped" on and filled. It could also be used as practice for later planking. However you decide, it makes some sense to not have the plank seams, on both layers, in the same place, but rather overlapping. So, some offset or less meticulousness could be advised.

 I do agree with David regarding the battons, weather you temporarily install them or just mark their runs on the frames. They keep you from letting a small error become larger down the run. They devide the space evenly, show you the best run and give you a nearer target.

 Proportional deviders can come in very handy at this stage, though not necessary.

 It may seem daunting, at first, but you'll get the hang of it, quikly.

 

 Steve

[cmann]

I have now finished the first hull layer.
 
Temporary battens to help spacing the planks:
 

After marking and dividing the section created with the battens:

 
The first two planks attached: (I found the idea for the peg clamps somewhere on the forums here but I can't find it again)

  
Half way through:

 
 
And completed:

 

After clipping the nails, filling the gaps, and sanding:

 

 

One of the planks near the back was a bit off so there was a large dent/step between it and the plank above so I had to fill it in:

 

Edited November 14, 2014 by cmann

[shoule]

 Very nice job with the planking. You nailed it (please, forgive the horrible pun).

[cmann]

 Very nice job with the planking. You nailed it (please, forgive the horrible pun).

Thanks, it wasn't perfect but in the end after sanding I think that it turned out OK.

Edited September 11, 2014 by cmann

[cmann]

The deck lining completed:

  

 

I have been using this build log as a reference, and in this case I also followed his example; I lined up the plank divisions with the lines that were already there from when I built the frame, and I used a 4B pencil around the edges of each section.
To draw on the nails I used the metal tip of a 0.35mm mechanical pencil. For each nail I would rub the tip on a 4B pencil to get some lead onto it then press and turn it on the deck.

Edited November 13, 2014 by cmann

[GuntherMT]

Sharp looking deck. 

[cmann]

Sharp looking deck.

Thanks.

[cmann]

Another update:
 
The sides up:

   

Edited November 13, 2014 by cmann

[cmann]

I've had to break the update into multiple posts because it says that I have reached the limit for the number of allowed images.

 

Lining the stern:

 

Edited November 13, 2014 by cmann

[cmann]

Lining the rest of the hull, halfway through:

  

 

Completed and lightly sanded (I will probably sand it some more to smooth it out completely and make sure it's clean just before varnishing it for the first time):

      

Edited November 13, 2014 by cmann

[GuntherMT]

Good looking planking.

 

Any particular reason you use Photobucket instead of attaching your photo's inline?  It's much easier to scroll through all the photo's in full size when they are attached to the forum - just FYI. 

[cmann]

Good looking planking.

 

Any particular reason you use Photobucket instead of attaching your photo's inline?  It's much easier to scroll through all the photo's in full size when they are attached to the forum - just FYI. 

Not sure, I just did it like that because the first other build log I saw on the forum used Photobucket and the thumbnails also looked a bit neater to me.

I suppose I could instead use the forum and full sized images if it is better that way.

Edited November 13, 2014 by cmann

[GuntherMT]

As long as your photo's are under 2mb each, they can be attached as you are composing your update, and it's really quite easy.  Much easier in my opinion than uploading them to photobucket and then having to link them here at thumbnails.

 

On the other hand, it's your log, and whatever way works for you is probably the way to go!

[cmann]

As long as your photo's are under 2mb each, they can be attached as you are composing your update, and it's really quite easy.  Much easier in my opinion than uploading them to photobucket and then having to link them here at thumbnails.

 

On the other hand, it's your log, and whatever way works for you is probably the way to go!

Thanks, I think that I will do this from now on, if it's easier for me to do and easier for everyone else to view than there is no reason not to.

[dgbot]

My digital camera has several settings from super high resolution 3 mbs to web 33kbs.  When I take a photo I use the web setting.  When I am using the high resolution, the file gets very large.  I take the folder and reduce the photos.  That is the easy way to do it.

David B

[GuntherMT]

I take all my photo's in full resolution for my camera (which isn't great, but does often go over the size limit here and really isn't necessary for the purpose of my build log) and store them in a folder I have named "RAW Images" under my AVS folder.  For the photo's I want to use in the log I copy them to a "Build Photos" folder where I can then edit and manipulate them without losing the original full resolution image.

For re-sizing, if I'm just doing a few, and/or I'm going to be cropping or some other editing, I normally just use Paint (included in Windows) as it's quick and easy.  If I am re-sizing a number of photo's at once and don't need to do anything else to them, then I use a free-ware program called "FastStone Photo Resizer" (free for home users - www.faststone.org) that will resize in batches.

 

I also re-name all of my photo's in sequence for the build log - i.e. 213BlackStrake.jpg, 214BlackStrake.jpg, 215HollyPlankingTest.jpg, etc. just so that it's easy for me to recognize what the photo's in the build log folder are, and so that they are in sequence by time, even if I do edits that change the time stamp on the file.

 

Then, when I'm posting a log update, I can just select all the photo's that I plan to use in the update, and using the advanced uploader in the forums here, I upload them all at once, then attach them to the post as I go.  This forum's photo handling is really the best I've ever seen, and very easy to use.

[cmann]

I take all my photo's in full resolution for my camera (which isn't great, but does often go over the size limit here and really isn't necessary for the purpose of my build log) and store them in a folder I have named "RAW Images" under my AVS folder.  For the photo's I want to use in the log I copy them to a "Build Photos" folder where I can then edit and manipulate them without losing the original full resolution image.

For re-sizing, if I'm just doing a few, and/or I'm going to be cropping or some other editing, I normally just use Paint (included in Windows) as it's quick and easy.  If I am re-sizing a number of photo's at once and don't need to do anything else to them, then I use a free-ware program called "FastStone Photo Resizer" (free for home users - www.faststone.org) that will resize in batches.

 

I also re-name all of my photo's in sequence for the build log - i.e. 213BlackStrake.jpg, 214BlackStrake.jpg, 215HollyPlankingTest.jpg, etc. just so that it's easy for me to recognize what the photo's in the build log folder are, and so that they are in sequence by time, even if I do edits that change the time stamp on the file.

 

Then, when I'm posting a log update, I can just select all the photo's that I plan to use in the update, and using the advanced uploader in the forums here, I upload them all at once, then attach them to the post as I go.  This forum's photo handling is really the best I've ever seen, and very easy to use.

Thanks, I have also adopted a similar naming scheme.

 

I have also taken the time to update all of the previous posts so that they now use the Model Ship World forums instead of Photobucket.

[cmann]

Lining the bulwarks and upper stern:

This step was relatively quick and simple.

    

 

Next I have to put up the rails and then I will be varnishing the hull, before I do though I have two questions:

1. I already have some clear cellulose lacquer that I am going to use to varnish the model, is there any reason why I shouldn't use this or is there something better that I can use?
   I don't think that there should be a problem with it but I just want to make sure.
    
2. What should I use to attach the other parts to the hull once it has been varnished?
   Will the contact glue stick properly to the varnish and will the bond between the wood, the varnish, and the glue be strong enough?
   I am guessing that super glue would work but I would prefer not to use that.

 

[Grimber]

If in doubt, make a test piece out of some scrap planking, finish it how you are planning lacquer sanding and so on, then test different glues on other scrap pieces of the same material as the parts you will glue on later.  I did this with several different glues so I could find the ones that would work for me.

 

Ships is looking sharp too 

 

Edited November 14, 2014 by Grimber

[cmann]

If in doubt, make a test piece out of some scrap planking, finish it how you are planning lacquer sanding and so on, then test different glues on other scrap pieces of the same material as the parts you will glue on later.  I did this with several different glues so I could find the ones that would work for me.

 

Ships is looking sharp too 

Thanks, I will try this.

[dgbot]

I echo the same thoughts.  Make up some test pieces this will save you headache later down the road.  Save and label them and save them.  They will help you on other models as well.

David B

[shoule]

It's coming along very nice and clean. Great job.

[cmann]

It's coming along very nice and clean. Great job.

Thanks.

[cmann]

I echo the same thoughts.  Make up some test pieces this will save you headache later down the road.  Save and label them and save them.  They will help you on other models as well.

David B

Sounds like a good idea, I will remember to do that from now on.

[cmann]

Next I have attached what they call the rubbing strakes and deck stringers in the manual:

 

The rubbing strakes:

I think I placed the nails too close to the edges so unfortunately the wood split here.

 

The deck stringers:

This is what the peg that I used in the previous two steps looks like:

[cmann]

I have also added the channels to the sides, these were only supposed to be added later on according the manual but I though it would be easier to add them now before varnishing the hull.

I have also added an extra piece of wood underneath each one for more support, these can be seen a little bit lower down in the pictures of the varnished hull.

 

Next the railings struts and boards:

It was difficult lining up all of the struts and some weren't perfect; The middle ones ended up sticking out more than they needed to be and so I had to bend the middle boards a little to make sure that they sat properly on the struts.

 

After varnishing:

Edited December 9, 2014 by cmann

[Grimber]

looks nice, I like the modified cloths pins.

 

for the split ends I would remove the nails, glue and clamp them to fix the splitting  then do some pre drilled holes to put the nails through.

[cmann]

looks nice, I like the modified cloths pins.

 

for the split ends I would remove the nails, glue and clamp them to fix the splitting  then do some pre drilled holes to put the nails through.

Good idea but unfortunately I've already moved on and can't do this. I will remember this for next time though.