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About Grimber

  • Birthday 11/24/1965

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Akron, Ohio US
  • Interests
    Modeling, Painting, Drawing, Medieval History

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  1. nice build so far. I got the 1/100 scale model when I went to korea this summer ( have not started on it yet). price for the 1/65 and the 1/100 in a Korean hobby shop is about the same as you find on ebay. one of the places I went to is Namhae Island (southern coast) to admiral Yi museum and also to see one of the real working reproduction turtle ship in the harbor near Noryang but you can find others throughout the island
  2. Have not done anything on my Swift since my last post last December. Have been drawn away from it with many real world things. My daughter got married, have had 2 short term construction jobs ( rough carpentry framing and concrete work), brother ended up in the hospital with some rare bone issue and had to have hip replacement surgery, took a trip to South Korea to visit in-laws and a bit of sight seeing (more on that in a later post as I got a chance to go to Admiral Yi's museum), and I made arrangements' to go back to collage this coming spring semester. I intend to get back to work on
  3. one extra tip, especially for large/long areas. you want to keep your brush strokes the same length through out your painting work. when you hit the 'long' stretches people tend to take longer brush strokes to cover those areas faster, but you end up with an uneven coat (thick on the ends and thin in the middle).
  4. actually it was a cheap one from hong kong off ebay. little patience I got it for $2.00 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-21pc-Micro-Drill-Bit-Set-Index-61-80-w-Swivel-Head-Pin-Vise-US-SHIPPER-/201039587229?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ecee4a79d made of aluminum and the swivel head keeps binding up as it is only held in place by very badly twisted ring, but i found it works great in a drill as long as you leave the 2nd vice in the handle shaft to keep the chuck from crushing handle. but I have been looking at just getting a small electric motor ( like used in RC vehicles) and p
  5. Hi, didn't mean to just use the vice, but the whole front half of the pin vice. my mistake in typing. but if you got a cheapy china made one you may not want to do that. mine I think is made of alluminum, but I have 2 so I did it with one just for use in a drill, and my other for using by hand.
  6. many pin vices I've seen unscrew on the back half to store the extra sizes of vice. can just try removing the back half of your pin vice and stick it in your drill/drill press.
  7. there is a trick with plastic parts like yards. same thing they do with eye glasses to shape the plastic frames to fit a persons face. They put the plastic in a container of hot sand which makes it pliable. I've done this LONG ago but you either need one of those warmer pots they use or make your own. have to keep the sand around 140-160 degrees if I recall right. hot tap water usually isn't enough and boiling water is too hot. could maybe do it if you have a food/candy thermometer handy and keep the water around the 140-160 range.
  8. can you fit a emory board or a fingernail file into the rabbet? may be all you need to opene it up enough to side the plank in.
  9. thanks, I been skipping the instructions lately though. But be sure you check out themadchemist (Keith) log as he knows allot more about this than I do. also do a search on the forums for other swift builds, took me a while but i read them all very early on. lots of information there. I'm only half ways though Keith's log being it's at 104 pages now I've made plenty of mistakes in my build and things haven't gone so well with the paint job. Right now I'm working on the scuttle, bucket, bildge pump, anchors plus a side project I need to finish before starting rigging.
  10. i like how the warspite is shooting at the ship in the distant background image. was very worth watching the progress on your work
  11. I kept having the same problems of beating up my paint job. Mindful of the tape too, I put some on to cover it, did some work went to take the tape off and because of handling i think I pressed that tape down good in spots and so the paint peeled up with the tape.
  12. I didn't even see the paint comment, had to go back and re read. Yes, I wouldn't toss a model due to paint. I've many times stripped models completely down to just parts and redone them. paint can come off with various removers but many times you can also fix a paint job vs starting it over. Nice thing on military vehicles is you can even take a bad spot in a paint job and with some work turn it into some battle damage.
  13. happened to me with the revel plastic constitution. got the rigging on and the tension would slack after a while. was a combination of the line stretching ( i think it was mostly nylon which stretches allot), the plastic masts bending to the tension and glue not holding the lines as well as they should. I replaced the lines with a combination of cotton line and thin wires ( little enamel paint to recolor after the rigging is done) and fixed the sages.
  14. did you use string or wire for the rigging? I know it would have been cables, what you could try instead is get some very flexable wire ( like the wire you get out of the wire for a pair of headphones/earbuds), the first you run the rigging that supports the towers (forward first then aft) the wire would be helpful as it can take more tension and it can be wrapped by hand to hold itself until you get it glued and trimmed. if the current rigging is glued, it can be unglued. many methods of undoing dried glue. so I don't think its a loss, just needs fixing.
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