Santìsima Trinidad by jack.aubrey - De Agostini - Scale 1:90 - Full Model

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2007

 

I have made a lot of work in these days but, unfortunately, it is not so visible. It was concentrated on a lot of very small items. The rudder. Painting and mounting a lot of guns on their carriage, building and mounting some kind of containers for the iron balls, gun ports, and over all, I'm painting with transparent matt enamel the hull.

So, I don't have interesting pictures to show.

 

I've made also some researches about the ship and I have found some interesting pictures. I've discovered that my model doesn't match completely with the attached plans. I know that the vessel was rebuild several times, so, most probably, there is not a "right" plan or a "right" model. Or at least I hope, otherwise .....

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Thu Jul 12, 2007

 

Here is the rudder close to be finished.

 

I have inserted the nail heads in the proper position. Everything is glued with the Super Attack. I have then painted the pintles with a dark green Humbrol matt enamel. Once dry I wiped the pintles with a cleaning cloth in order to obtain an used visual effect. Last a coat of transparent paint to fix everything.

 

Last a sample of the guns to be applied on the quarterdeck. They are completely made with metal. The gun carriage is painted with a dark red painting. I don't like too much these guns. I would like to find another (probably expensive) solution but unfortunately their size is difficult to find. I need to search on the market for alternatives. If successful I will evaluate what to do.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007

 

Some new details that are not included in the kit. The green arrows shows the shot garlands. These pieces are taken from plans I have downloaded from the internet http://en.santisima-trinidad.astillero.net/

They were very easy to reproduce. I have used a strip of walnut of 1.5X4 in size. Today I have added also the shots, six for each garland. There are eight garlands on each side.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Jul 15, 2007

 

Here are the shot garlands once terminated.

 

I didn't drill any holes for the balls. I used some lead balls used for fishing. There are different sizes. The one selected are of the same caliber of the guns provided.

 

I have mounted six of them on a nylon string and then I glued the result on the garland. That's why they are quite perfectly aligned !!

 

[WackoWolf]

Nice trick with the cannon balls. Thanks for sharing.

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007

 

A general view of the Santìsima Trinidad as it is today.

 

Unfortunately I'm in trouble with the painting. I'm painting with transparent matt enamel the hull and I got some problems.

 

In practice there are three kind of wood: mahogany, walnut and ramin. I have covered with two coats of paint the hull and I'm waiting for the paint to become dry.

 

And here is the problem: it's five days I'm waiting and the paint is still wet !! It is dry only over the mahogany. In this situation I can't work on the model and I'm worried because I am not able to explain the reason.

 

For the moment I can only wait ... and I have resumed the San Juan Nepomuceno. I have started the hull planking and, at this time, I have installed the first four planks on each side.

 

In the background on the first photo you can see the kit box of a third model I'm building. It's close to be finished.

 

In the second photo here posted another detail of a shot garland, totally different from the others.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007

 

Some messages ago I published one photo of the ship guns, to be installed on the fourth deck (quarterdeck+waist+forecastle).

 

I probably said that I was not too much satisfied by the guns provided with the kit.

 

For this reason I watched several modelers shop in order to look for alternatives. The next two photos are showing a gun, partially acquired on the market but strongly modified by me, mainly for maintaining the right dimensions.

 

This gun is a prototype, mainly focused to obtain a sample to check on the model for the proper sizing and positioning. Now I'm building the final model, where the carriage is painted with an ochre acrylic paint. I will keep the weels in natural wood.

 

I have found two other similar guns and, if they will be ok, I will try to adopt and install three different guns: one model for the quarterdeck (8pdrs), another for the forecastle and another, smaller, for the waist (4pdrs). The model showed here will be for the quarterdeck.

 

 

[fnick]

Hi Jack

 

Fantastic build. I remember it from MSW1. Quick question you say that there is no problem with using vinyl glue after applying the danish oil. Is that the same as PVA wood glue? I am asking because I have seen lots of info saying danish oil and wood glue dont mix.

 

Nick

[jack.aubrey]

Hi Jack 

Fantastic build. I remember it from MSW1. Quick question you say that there is no problem with using vinyl glue after applying the danish oil. Is that the same as PVA wood glue? I am asking because I have seen lots of info saying danish oil and wood glue dont mix. 

Nick

Hi nick, when, some messages ago I used the term "Danish Oil" I made a mistake . . As you probably know I'm trying to rebuild a WIP lost in MSW1 and I've used the text I used in the original WIP. Looking at the wikipedia explanation of danish oil, here below . .

 

Danish oil is a wood finishing oil, made of either tung oil or polymerized linseed oil.

Danish oil is a 'long oil' finish: a mixture of oil and varnish, predominantly of oil.[1][2] A typical Danish oil is around one third varnish. The function of Danish oil is to provide a hard-wearing finish, rather than a particularly fine or high-gloss finish. Compared to oil, it is hard-wearing. Compared to a varnish, it is simple to apply. As the finished coating is not glossy or slippery, it is a suitable finish for tool handles, giving some additional weather resistance.

Danish oil is a hard drying oil which provides a tough, water-resistant finish. It can be used as a finish, or as a primer or sealer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish.

When used, Danish oil provides a satin finish and provides coverage of approx 12.5 sq. m/l (600 sq. ft./gallon) and is usually applied over a course of three coats by brush or cloth, with any excess being wiped off shortly after application. The finish is left to dry for around 6-24 hours between coats, depending on the mixture being used and the wood being treated.

Rags used for Danish oil have some potential risk of spontaneous combustion and starting fires, so it is best to dry rags flat before disposing of them, or else soak them in water.

you can read that a part of the mix is varnish. Assuming this is true, this product most probably closes the wood pores and this is the reason why the vinyl glue doesn't work satisfactory.

 

The product I used and I still use doesn't contain varnish, it is only oil, mainly vegetable and sintetic oils suitable to protect the wood but that doesn't close the wood pores. That's why I can use the wood glue without problems . . I made a post with a picture of the oil I use: unfortunately it is an Italian product and I haven't found the UK equivalent but most probably a similar product surely exists.

On some models I have applied several coats of this product always maintaining the ability to use the wood glue (see: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1044-le-soleil-royal-by-jackaubrey-de-agostini-scale-170/).

 

Hoping to have cleared the concept, I apologize for the confusion I made with that wrong post. Sincerely, Jack.Aubrey.

Edited November 17, 2014 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2007

 

In these five images I want to show you the two new prototypes of the Santisima Trinidad's guns.

 

These are prototypes of two different guns.

 

The bigger should be the 8 pounders long gun, located in the quarterdeck. There was ten of these guns installed as recorded in my reference book.

 

The second type, the smaller, should be the 4 pounders gun, located in (or what should be ) the waist. Also this caliber was installed in number of ten.

 

Last, there should be in the forecastle 8 carronades of 24 pounders. I haven't yet found a solution for the carronades. I'm looking for a gun barrel greater than the 8 pounders to be cut (by using ie. my Dremel) shorter and install on a different carriage.

 

I'll keep you informed of the progresses. Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2007

 

August 12, 2007 - Current activities - Part 1:

 

I have terminated the assembly of the 10 eight pounders guns.

 

In the following three images I have positoned them in the proper location just to provide an idea of the general outlook. Now it is not the right moment to install them, but, when this moment will come, I will have to provide the proper rigging for each gun.

 

I suspect that this task will be very similar to a nightmare but I live now in the illusion this will be solved anyway.

 

I am convinced that these "demi scratch built" guns are immensely better than the kit provided ones. See in message #67 the first image to compare. But the work necessary to reach this result is absolutely worthy of a crazy mind ....

 

 

 

[fnick]

Hi Jack

 

Thank you for your response. No need to apologise for confusing me... It's easily done! . I've seen your post showing the oil you use. I will have to see if I can get something similar in the UK. In any case I have tried the danish oil on a sample and I am very happy with the results so even if I can't find the oil you use you've still helped me in finding a finish I like!

 

Nick
.

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007

 

August 14th, 2007 - Current building activities:

 

Some messages ago I said that I was in trouble with the painting of the wales.

 

I don't know exactly what was happening but, after the application of a coat of transparent paint (Humbrol Matt 49) the result was:

- the paint didn't dry, or better it took days to dry

- instead of becoming matt, it's partly matt (and dry) and partly gloss (and not dry).

Most probably the Humbrol paint contains some kind of component that is not absorbed by the walnut of my wales.

 

To conclude the result was not satisfactory so, after many attempts I take the final decision to paint the wales with an acrylic black paint. With this new kind of paint, were the essence that was rejected by the wood of my wales is probably absent, the result is shown in the next three photos of the complete hull.

 

After, having realized that this solution was really good and definitive, I also took the decision to paint the wale vertical reinforcements with an acrylic ochre colour.

 

The whole operation (black on the wale and ochre on the reinforcements) needed an eagle eye, a very firm hand and several days to obtain the final result but, I am honestly very satisfied.

 

The last image shows the Santìsima Trinidad in the foreground and the San Juan in the background. I think you can appreciate the difference in terms of hull and dimensions, being them at the same scale.

 

Next message will contain more detailed images of the newly coloured hull.

 

Regards. Jack.

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007

 

New more detailed photos of the repainted wales and vertical wales reinforcements. Nothing new on the model. Only photos.

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007

 

August 19th, 2007

 

Here are plenty of images of Santisima Trinidad's ordnance. In these days I have built ten new guns. These guns are in accordance with the second type mounted on the quarterdeck. They are smaller than the other 10 previously build and documented. In any case I have positioned them near to the other type in a way to make possible comparisons between them.

 

The first image is a very close view of both models. The image is much bigger than it is in the reality and you can see some details that are not visible naked-eye. And they may appear imperfections ...

 

That's all. Your sincerely. Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007

 

September 5, 2007

 

I'm in trouble with the monthly shipments of the magazine (and the related builing material and instructions). My last receipt was in June and today the july and august issues are still missing.

 

I called the De Agostini's customer service and I was said that most probably it is a problem generated by the public post service and that they cannot consider their shipment lost (and consequently re-issue a new shipment) before 60 days from their shipment date. For the july one this will happen on sept. 20th.

 

So, I had to stop any activity on the Santisima Trinidad more then 15 days ago. I will continue with the San Juan Nepomuceno soon. Jack.

[WackoWolf]

Sorry to hear that you are having problem with getting the issues. This is one of the problems people seem to have. And now that they will ship to the USA I have doubts about doing one of there kits. Hope things get taken care of.

[jack.aubrey]

Sorry to hear that you are having problem with getting the issues. This is one of the problems people seem to have. And now that they will ship to the USA I have doubts about doing one of there kits. Hope things get taken care of.

Hi Wacko, rememeber to check always the date I report on each message I publish on this topic.

 

As I wrote in the first message about this model, I'm trying to recover a build log lost with the crash of Modelshiworld time ago. So, this date is important because I'm describing facts happened much time ago. In the case of my last message this belongs to September 2007 !!

 

Anyway, what you write is really a right concern. This in Italy was true some years ago, but now is much better, after the mail service acquired a private company to manage parcels. The delivery of the montly shipments, that has a different management of the news-stand channel, rely in Italy mainly on the public mail service that in +/-2007 was much less efficient that today. De Agostini is usually regular with its shipments but then the "courier" passes to the mail service and delays may happen. This still is true in some period of the year, tipically in August (holidays), Christmas and Easter.

 

But every country has its own postal service and this service may be more or less efficient that in Italy.

[WackoWolf]

I will always be watching your log. Keep us inform as to what goes one, I know that there are others that are watching also. Thank you for sharing this with all of us.

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007

Today, while I was working on the San Juan Nepomuceno I have received a monthly shipment from De Agostini (the magazine editor and kit manufacturer).
Unfortunately this is the shipment n° 20 (this means it's 20 months I'm working on the Santìsima Trinidad) and I am still missing the 19th. I have done a quick review in the hope I can do something but mainly all the task here described are dependent from some other task contained in the missed numbers.

Still some time to wait .... Jack.

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007

 

Latest news ...... Today I have finally received from the magazine editor the missing (in action) shipment, the famous 19th ... So, now I have all the materials and the building instructions necessary to restart my work on this model. 

 

But you must be patient to see something new since this saturday I will start a trip with my wife in Ireland (Dublin and Galway) and I will be back only the following friday.

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007

  

I'm now back fron my trip in Ireland. 

 

These images give you a "appetizer" of which kind of beautiful lands, landscapes and seascapes you can find there ..... 

 

In the next days I will resume my work on the Santìsima Trinidad, so let's see us soon . . . Jack.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007

 

I'm back on this topic after my trip in Ireland just to inform everybody that I haven't yet started any kind of work on the Santìsima Trinidad (ST).

 

The reason is that, just sometime before to resume the ST model, I received a telephone call by the model-shop of my choice informing me that the timber I ordered for the second planking for my simultaneous build (74 gun ship San Juan Nepomuceno ) was finally available. So I went to buy it and after that I was not able to resist to the wish to try to lay some planks.

 

What then shortly happened is that now I am fully involved in this new task and the Santìsima Trinidad is still idle ......

 

Some days ago I published on the San Juan Nepomuceno topic (unfortunately totally lost after the previously mentioned crash) some images of the Santìsima Trinidad built by another italian modeler. He is here known with the nickname FAM and this message is a tribute to his craftmanship.

 

His images started some positive comments and participations in that topic ..

 

He does not publish his work on this site (I tryed to convice him ..) but he has authorised me to show you some other pictures of his model so I have posted here six photos of his masterpiece, showing the tremendous amount of work done by him on the quarterdeck of the ST.

 

It is also important to know that his ST, like mine, is built starting from the De Agostini parts work, with some changes/customisations.

 

So, in the waiting of some good news from my ST, for the moment I hope you will appreciate this other ST ... It is worth appreciating.

 

See you soon. Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Dec 09, 2007

 

Last Friday, December 7th, 2007, I finally resumed the work on the Santìsima Trinidad. It was more than three month I did nothing around her, mainly because the italian postal service lost a monthly shipment from the kit manufacturer.

 

But now I am back again, although I have done few work ... some small deck details ... but what is important is that, as we use to say here in Italy, the "ice has been broken".

 

I started to work following the instructions of the kit magazine issue n° 74 (until now we are at the issue n° 95): this means that I have a lot of work to do.

 

As soon as it will be worth to take photos I will publish them. See you soon. Jack.

 

Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007

 

This is the first result of my resumed work on the Santìsima Trinidad. The attached image shows the fore topsail sheet bitts (on the left) and the main top bowline bitts (on the right). The area involved is the forecastle.

 

There are three additional bitts, two before and after the main mast and one after the mizzen mast.

 

To fix the bitts to the deck I have first drilled a hole in the vertical columns and inserted and glued a brass nail into it. Once cutted the nails head I have then drilled the deck in the proper place and, by inserting in the two holes the prominent edges of the nail, I have definitely fixed the whole with glue. It seems quite robust ....

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 

  

Here you can see another work I've recently done on my Santìsima Trinidad. 

Companionways with rails and other details. Very small details on the quarterdeck, but very much visible. Finally I have decided to paint the rails with a blue paint because the color of the wood used wasn't much omogeneous and I didn't like it. 

I like particularly the ballusters (the columns made with boxwood).

 

 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

Beautiful work Jack. I like the view showing the lower deck. Very intriguing.....

 

Yves

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007

 

I'm back again to explain the work that is currently engaging me: the construction of the structure, I think the right term should be "the head", located at the prow, between the figurehead and the beginning of the forecastle.

 

It is a very complex area but the main problem I'm encountering here is to identify the proper terminology. I am using as reference the 32-gun Frigate Essex, of the Anatomy of the Ship series, page 48, 49, 50 and 51.

 

The raw materials supplied by the kit manufacturer were:

1) gratings to be mounted, glued and cut at the right size

2) pre-cut plywood (2 mm.) for the cross timbers and up to three rails (main rail, middle rail and lower rail).

 

The first image shows some of the cross timbers pieces when separated from the plywood sheet . . . . . briefly I wasn't satisfied of them, first of all because of the poor quality of the plywood.

 

So I decided to discard everything and use them only as templates for my own cross timbers. To do them I have used walnut stripes of 2x4mm and 0,5x4mm. I have built the timbers by glueing the two types of wood in order to frame-up the angles and have more surface to fill with glue. The resulting width of the timbers is 2.5mm. but I thing the pieces are much better and probably more realistic. From another point of view I have used the gratings supplied by the manufacturer without any change.

 

The second image shows the structure partially finished and as it is now. I need to build another small cross timber to install in front of the other three.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007

 

This is the continuation of the previous message where you can look at the structure installed in its proper place, but not yet fixed.

 

The three images here below show the area from different perspectives. I like it and until now I'm satisfied.

 

Looking better at the third image it becomes evident that there is a gap between the round hull of the prow and the overlooking first grating. This gap will be filled with ledges or with another grating properly shaped when the structure will be permanently fixed to the hull.

 

What I need now is to find some time to continue this work, but the Christmas period is here and everybody is very busy and I'm not different.

 

I want also get this chance to wish Idea Merry Christmas and Idea Happy New Year to everybody. Your Jack Aubrey.

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007

 

I have added some small details to the sheet bitts. These makes them more realistic than before ...

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007

 

I'm now working on adding new details to the upper deck and the quarterdeck.

What you can see in these two following images are some kind of "home made" small columns. The real size of these protopype object is the following: 3mm. diameter, 18mm. length. So, the images are much more bigger than reality . . .

 

To build it I have used my Dremel minidrill.

 

I cut a piece of round wood and I mounted it in the drill in place of the drill bit. Then, with a file I made the three grooves. Then I cut the column to the proper length and drilled the two edges to insert and fix a brass nail in one side and an eyebolt in the other (when mounted in place).