mrangus Posted July 8, 2015 Author #151 Posted July 8, 2015 I decided to make all the chain plate anchors at once so I took the brass strip I purchased and marked with lines where I wanted to drill the holes. I then segmented out the anchors into three mm strips by marking with a line perpendicular to the drill holes, and then drilled all the holes. (I should've taken a picture of this, but I didn't) Once completed, I cut the individual strips and hammered each out to be flat. Lots of filing to get the curves on the ends, and then attached to the chain. Worked pretty good! btw, does anyone know how to intersperse text with images? I tried on the full editor to use the 'image' button, but it just freezes me up.... GuntherMT, GLakie, mattsayers148 and 2 others 5 Quote
mrangus Posted July 8, 2015 Author #152 Posted July 8, 2015 And here is the completed channel! (three more to go...) I still haven't glued the deadeyes into the channel, I want to stain/oil them beforehand - get everything complete before doing that. Also..... I'm thinking about putting brackets under the channel to give additional support. Thoughts on that? mattsayers148, JesseLee, UpstateNY and 2 others 5 Quote
GLakie Posted July 8, 2015 #153 Posted July 8, 2015 They look good Robb. I would stick with whatever design the plans call for here. The chain plates will take care of the support when the shrouds go up. As far as interspersing text with pics. Just put a space down from the main paragraph, insert your pic, then type your text. Or if the text is short, type the text first, then insert the pic, if you want the text next to the pic. mattsayers148, mrangus and Jack12477 3 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
mrangus Posted July 9, 2015 Author #154 Posted July 9, 2015 In retrospect I wish I had gotten Dave's deadeyes, I think they would have looked much better than the kit supplied ones. They are all lopsided and off-center. GLakie and mattsayers148 2 Quote
GLakie Posted July 9, 2015 #155 Posted July 9, 2015 Dave? Or do you mean Chuck? Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
mrangus Posted July 9, 2015 Author #156 Posted July 9, 2015 Yes Chuck. otherwise known as Dave in my mixed up world. Maybe there's still time. I'd have to re-do all the deadeyes.... I'll think about it when I'm up at Lake George next week. GLakie 1 Quote
UpstateNY Posted July 9, 2015 #157 Posted July 9, 2015 Hi Robb, Your build looks great and I am amazed at how fast you are moving! Enjoy your vacation! Cheers, Nigel. mrangus and GLakie 2 Quote Current Build Logs: H.M.S. Triton Cross Section, USF Confederacy Model Shipways Completed Log: Red Dragon Artesania Latina Gallery: Red Dragon: Artesania Latina Member: Nautical Research Guild
mattsayers148 Posted July 9, 2015 #158 Posted July 9, 2015 Looks awesome Robb. Good call with the production line, they all look very consistent. GLakie and mrangus 2 Quote Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt HMS Bounty Launch by Matt 18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt 18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)
mrangus Posted July 10, 2015 Author #159 Posted July 10, 2015 Thanks for the nice comments gents. Nigel - very much looking fwd to a week at the lake. We stay in the cleverdale area if you're familiar with the locale. Off-line for a week! Funny what perception is, I feel like I'm at a crawl... though it continues to move forward. Matt - it's tough without machine tools so I try to find ways to speed things along and get a fairly replicable product. Not easy when the only power tool is a 20 yr old dremel. If I get through this build and still have the bug, I may invest in a few machines. Until then... hand tools only! George, as always, thanks for all the helpful tips and advice. I will post updates separately, as I have a few. mattsayers148 and JesseLee 2 Quote
mrangus Posted July 10, 2015 Author #160 Posted July 10, 2015 (edited) I worked on the lifeboat some more, cleaned it up to the point where I'm comfortable with it. Not entirely, but enough so to move on. In thinking about how the boat would be installed on the ship, it bothered me that they wanted the lashing tied to the loops on the boat's platform. I thought it would be more appropriate for the rope to be lashed to a cleat, so I attempted to make a cleat for this purpose. The images show the progress: (btw I still can't figure out how to 'insert' images in my typing area. cut/paste doesn't work, the 'image' button doesn't work, I don't see other options.) How are coils made? I thought it would be cool to coil the rest of the rope, but not sure where to begin with that. and the rope is a bit finicky... maybe make the coil beforehand, and then lash? Edited July 10, 2015 by Mr.Angus UpstateNY, mattsayers148, JesseLee and 2 others 5 Quote
mrangus Posted July 10, 2015 Author #161 Posted July 10, 2015 (edited) So of course I finally put a little oil on the channels and once dried glued the deadeyes into the channel slots... and THEN I finally noticed that the small deadeye was on the wrong side!! So I had to remove #2 and #4 and switch them. After much angst and a few curse words, I got it done - I think it actually looks a little better.... One funny story. I was putting the aforementioned cleat onto the boat using a pair of tweezers, and ptewey! I squeezed a little too hard and it went flying.... somewhere.... It took me over a half hour to carve that little bugger so I wasn't about to start over. I looked *everywhere*, had to clean off the bench, went through all the stuff around my bench, couldn't find it, and finally gave up. Only to notice it was sitting right on the deck the whole time. At least I cleaned up a bit - see before/after pics. And I figured out the image issue! Drag-n-drop works! (sort of... just thumbnails, not the full-size pic.) Edited July 10, 2015 by Mr.Angus mattsayers148, GLakie, JesseLee and 1 other 4 Quote
GLakie Posted July 10, 2015 #162 Posted July 10, 2015 You're lucky with finding the cleat Robb. Usually they end up in another dimension never to be seen again. (btw I still can't figure out how to 'insert' images in my typing area. cut/paste doesn't work, the 'image' button doesn't work, I don't see other options.) Ok---At the bottom, right next to your "Post" button is the "More reply Options" button. Before you start with your post click that, then at the bottom, notice the "choose file" button. Click that and go to your desktop, or navigate to wherever your pictures are located on your computer, and click "open", then "Attatch This File". That will locate a small thumbnail of the pic right there with a "Add to Post" or delete option. Relocate your cursor where you want the pic and click the "Add to Post". Cheers mattsayers148 and Jack12477 2 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
Jack12477 Posted July 10, 2015 #163 Posted July 10, 2015 And while you are in the folder/desktop where your pictures are, hold down the CTRL key and while holding it down CLICK on each photo you want to upload, when you've finishes selecting all your photos then click OPEN and ATTACH and follow George's instructions above mattsayers148 and GLakie 2 Quote Jack "No one is as smart as all of us" - Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build: US Constellation Non-ship builds: USCG UH-65A Dolphin M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas 1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II JSDF Light Armor Vehicle Figures: The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper Edge of Universe: Ianis The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart Completed build log(s): 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne, Willie L Bennett 1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown USS England (DE 635), Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery: Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop, Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne Other: Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour
mattsayers148 Posted July 10, 2015 #164 Posted July 10, 2015 Looking great Robb! I'm gonna steal your idea on the cleats since I have a couple dozen to make. GLakie and mrangus 2 Quote Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt HMS Bounty Launch by Matt 18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt 18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)
mrangus Posted July 25, 2015 Author #165 Posted July 25, 2015 Well folks I'm back from my holidays - had a wonderful time up at Lake George, the only misfortune is that I missed Hermione coming into Boston. My sister made it though and took lots of pictures which she has yet to share. Stay tuned. I got back to work on the ship. Was able to finish one side (portside) deadeyes and I think they look ok. the mainmast deadeyes aren't equally spaced on the channel, so I'll have to live with that. I've gotten the manufacturing of chain plates down pretty good. I pulled together the four new ones in about an hour, and cursing is down 60% so that's a good sign. Also had a little motivation so I rough shaped the bowsprit. I tapered with sanding block by hand which was a little bit of a challenge but not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Just took some time. I don't have any power tools other than a drill and dremel, and I didn't want teeth marks on the base so I just rolled on the workbench and sanded. the harder part was sanding out the holes for the piece that connects the two bowsprit masts together. That took at least a half hour. Anyways a few pictures to show some progress. One question I have. The piece that looks like it goes between the bowsprit masts (#145 in my picture). Is this supposed to go in between the two masts, or attached to one? I've seen it done both ways on the SM. And I'm going to have to make 145 because that is another piece that is missing. I seem to have lost a large pre-cut sheet over the years... Jack12477, UpstateNY, mattsayers148 and 2 others 5 Quote
mrangus Posted July 25, 2015 Author #166 Posted July 25, 2015 Matt - good luck on the cleats. It's really not that hard, just need some patience - and a good set of glasses! One word of caution. Those little cleats can go FLYING if you squeeze too hard with tweezers. Took me over a half hour to find it when I sent it flying. So be careful. Good luck - look forward to seeing pics! GLakie 1 Quote
GLakie Posted July 25, 2015 #167 Posted July 25, 2015 Nice job on the chain-plates Robb! That part #145 looks like it would be made from 2 pieces and be glued to each side of the Jib Boom from what I can see on the plan. mattsayers148, Jack12477 and JesseLee 3 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
ribera Posted July 25, 2015 #168 Posted July 25, 2015 my husband started buildind this model 25 years ago. Unfortunately, he has lost the original plans. Now he has the time and thevaim to start again, but we don't know how to obtain the ship plans. Could you help us? Many thanks, Maria GLakie and mattsayers148 2 Quote
mattsayers148 Posted July 25, 2015 #169 Posted July 25, 2015 Hey Robb, looking sharp! Check out this guy's bowsprit pics and process http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1673-byzantium-by-qwerty2008-radio-scale-1-20-custom-model-based-on-the-pride-of-baltimore/page-13?hl=%2Bmaking+%2Bthe+%2Bbowsprit#entry285950 I'm creeping closer to this step as well, so I'm gonna keep an eye on your progress. GLakie 1 Quote Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt HMS Bounty Launch by Matt 18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt 18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)
GLakie Posted July 25, 2015 #170 Posted July 25, 2015 my husband started buildind this model 25 years ago. Unfortunately, he has lost the original plans. Now he has the time and thevaim to start again, but we don't know how to obtain the ship plans. Could you help us? Many thanks, Maria Maria you might want to start by contacting the maker of the kit to see if the plans are available for purchase, or check Ebay and Amazon for the complete kit. There might be copyright issues in acquiring them any other way. mattsayers148 and ribera 2 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
JesseLee Posted July 25, 2015 #171 Posted July 25, 2015 Like George said. On this ship they are on each side of the Jib Boom. Jack12477 and GLakie 2 Quote Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic) On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood) Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350 (plastic), Andromede - Dikar (wood), Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood), Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic), Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'), 4 small scratch builds (wood), Vietnamese fishing boat (wood) & a Ship in a bottle
mrangus Posted July 27, 2015 Author #172 Posted July 27, 2015 Ok thanks all for comments. Jesse - I capitulated (after thinking I was going to put the piece between the masts) and attached to sides of jib boom. Looks pretty good now that I have it on. Also have a small wedge between to keep the poles parallel. I like the look better than having the pole touch - but what is more realistic? Ive seen on other models that they tie the ropes that wrap around the two poles to crimp the roping and keep the gap. I could also move the wedge up a little and it will be hidden by the rope once I get that done. Also glued more of the decking on. Starting to look good! I'm excited to get the bowsprit completed and glued on. I've decided not to take Jesse's approach and drill into the deck for fear that I Will screw it up. So I've made a nice cut at the right angle and will glue with CA which should hold it ok. George - thanks for the compliment and advice, I'm getting a little better at bending all that wire. Still a trial of patience however which is why I've been doing other things. Will try to tackle the remaining 5 deadeyes this week. Matt - thanks for the example, very helpful. Interesting build too, really big. Maria, thanks for reaching out - I'd take George's advice on the plans. PIctures wouldn't do justice, you need the full size plans for measuring, comparing, etc. I'm sure you can order if you reach out to AL. Also your husband should follow JesseLee's build (which is what I've referred to time and time again). His exquisite detail is much better than the instructions that come with the kit... and your husband can ask questions any time, I might be able to help. Jesse - thanks as always! GLakie, Jack12477, ccoyle and 4 others 7 Quote
GLakie Posted July 27, 2015 #173 Posted July 27, 2015 The over-all pictures of her look great Robb. I don't know about just using CA on the bowsprit though. When you start rigging the fore stays, it might not hold up to the tension. Jesse's idea might be a better option. Just start with a small hole at first, using a sharp bit, and at high speed, to avoid splintering, working your way up to under the right size finishing with a file, and elongate the hole just a little at the front and rear with a round file, because of the angle it will be. It'll definitely offer way more support for your rigging. I'd hate to see things breaking on you when you start that. Cheers Jack12477 1 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
mattsayers148 Posted July 27, 2015 #174 Posted July 27, 2015 Love it Robb, the deck is filling up beautifully! I had a drawing of the bowsprit with the rope lashings but can't find it now. Anyway, I think it looks better with the space. When you add the rope bands are you going to crimp them with rope? If you do you might not need the wedge. GLakie and Jack12477 2 Quote Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt HMS Bounty Launch by Matt 18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt 18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)
mattsayers148 Posted July 27, 2015 #175 Posted July 27, 2015 I'll put my two cents in to add to George's comment. Now that you've cut the base at the angle, you can use it to make a template of its footprint. Then mark on the deck the oval, or just hold it in place and trace around it. This way you can cut to the inside of the line before any drilling. That way you can avoid splintering or oversizing the hole. GLakie and Jack12477 2 Quote Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt HMS Bounty Launch by Matt 18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt 18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)
UpstateNY Posted July 27, 2015 #176 Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) HI Robb, Looks awesome. Great to see all the deck details bringing her to life! I hear you on drilling the hole for the bowsprit....drilling out my cannon ports gave me fits. In case it helps, another option to add to the suggestions by George and Matt, is to use a tapered sanding stick as Augie showed in his Confederacy build. See link below to the page in Augie's log. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3371-usf-confederacy-by-augie-ms-164/page-82 Hope you enjoyed your time up at Lake George. Cheers, Nigel. Edited July 27, 2015 by UpstateNY Jack12477, GLakie and mattsayers148 3 Quote Current Build Logs: H.M.S. Triton Cross Section, USF Confederacy Model Shipways Completed Log: Red Dragon Artesania Latina Gallery: Red Dragon: Artesania Latina Member: Nautical Research Guild
JesseLee Posted July 27, 2015 #177 Posted July 27, 2015 Gets exciting when you see the deck start to fill up doesn't it? It's looking very good!. It does look much better spaced with the wedge. That is a mistake I made with my build. I intended to do that too. I had tied it up & glued it before I realized I had left it out. I didn't like it but I didn't want to tear it back up so I left it like it was. Another option if you still don't want to cut a hole in the deck you can carefully insert a wire pin or two or a small wood peg into the flat part that lays on the deck- being careful not to drill through to the top. Gluing it down with it pinned or pegged is better than just gluing the flat part down. Like others have said it could pull up when doing all the rigging. GLakie, mattsayers148 and Jack12477 3 Quote Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic) On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood) Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350 (plastic), Andromede - Dikar (wood), Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood), Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic), Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'), 4 small scratch builds (wood), Vietnamese fishing boat (wood) & a Ship in a bottle
mrangus Posted July 27, 2015 Author #178 Posted July 27, 2015 Nigel, Matt and George thanks for the tips and compliments! I am very excited about how it's looking - I thought the chain plates were going to be the end of me... but getting closer. I have to make a few more anchors will document that in upcoming post. Jesse I'm thinking about doing exactly what you describe, use posts to stabilize and secure the post. I would have to take apart the bowsprit and replace the lower post with a longer one which makes me cringe. I may experiment with a few alternative approaches. I agree, excitement is building that I'm getting close to starting the third phase (Rigging)... One regret I have is not keeping a log of work/hours. I have no idea how much time I've put into this would have to think it's 50-100 hrs so far. Hard to tell too with the starts/stops. GLakie and mattsayers148 2 Quote
mrangus Posted July 28, 2015 Author #179 Posted July 28, 2015 Lots of progress today. I guess my team of encouragement really motivated me... I finished the bowsprit, ready to put onto the boat. I came up with a decent alternative to drilling a hole in my beloved deck. Take a look below... one of the pics shows the bowsprit installed onto a work board. Also finished building all the chain plates (except the little one which is easier than the larger ones). Now in the process of creating the anchors. I hope to have all the deadeyes on this week. Another question. I don't like the look/feel of the anchor. Any suggestions where I can get a better looking one? GLakie, GuntherMT, mattsayers148 and 2 others 5 Quote
GLakie Posted July 28, 2015 #180 Posted July 28, 2015 Your bowsprit looks like it will hold pretty good Robb. Instead of CA though, I'd use an epoxy because it'll make for a much stronger bond. Anchors - hmmm - you can check here to see if they have the one you like at the right size: http://www.bluejacketinc.com/fittings/fittings12.htm Cheers mattsayers148 and Jack12477 2 Quote GEORGE Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn. Member of the Nautical Research Guild
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