Jump to content

Scottish Maid by mrangus - Artesania Latina - first build


Recommended Posts

I hope my mast work turns out that nice!

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a half hour tonight... and for some reason the crosstrees fell into place very well - my cuts were measured pretty well this time. So the masts are together.

I raised the masts but haven't fixed them yet. I needed to see what they look like. Several more pieces to go on the masts before secured to the ship.

 

One question. I know that some ships have lots of rings on the masts. I don't understand what they are or their purpose. Any ideas? Should I do this for the ship? It doesn't appear to be part of the standard build (but what has been?)

 

Very exciting to be on the cusp of rigging! I honestly never thought I'd get to this point on this ship.

 

A few pics:

post-4074-0-37611300-1439431852_thumb.jpg

post-4074-0-59865500-1439431853_thumb.jpg

post-4074-0-63563200-1439431854_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your cross trees turned out great Robb.  This ship does have the mast-hoops, and about 9 or 10 on each mast. Here's a hi-res pic that you can use for reference, and another showing "with sails" so you can see how they're used.

 

post-12186-0-79815200-1439433418_thumb.jpg

post-12186-0-38626600-1439433391_thumb.jpg

Edited by GLakie

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are called 'mast hoops', and like George posted, they should be on this ship it seems.  The hoops are what allowed the fore and aft rigged sails to move up and down the mast when the gaff was raised or lowered.  The sails are attached to the hoops which slide along the mast.

 

Edit:

 

Here is a shot from the stern of the Pride of Baltimore II, showing how the rings work quite nicely.  The forward mast has the sail furled against the mast with the gaff remaining raised, so you can see how the hoops are spaced along the mast attached to the sail, while the closer mast has the gaff lowered to the boom, and you can see all the hoops stacked up between them.

 

post-14925-0-00775500-1439434139_thumb.jpg

Edited by GuntherMT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little confused...

I've been studying the rigging in detail and am coming across some basic gaps in knowledge.

Not sure the best way to secure the blocks to the eyebolts as well as directly to the masts. The diagrams don't provide details and I'm struggling to find good examples of how this is done. I understand how to seize the lines once on the block (kind of like what I did with my lower deadeyes) but not too sure about how to actually secure the blocks. Any suggestions or examples would be welcomed.

 

Regarding the masthoops - thanks George and Brian, very helpful input. I tried something over this weekend - I got some reeds from the local marsh, which have the same diameter, and are wood-like. The issue I had when I tried cutting is that the wood is very brittle and would break easy. I got a few cut but may have to take another path - perhaps trying cane as one poster suggested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If nobody gives a good answer I'll try to take some pictures and make a little tutorial type post when I get home tonight, as I am posted from my phone at work.

 

What I do is to make an 'S' out of a short piece of rope. Thread the eyebolt into one of the loops of the S and then seize it, making sure to capture all three legs of the S. This will give you a eyebolt that is seized to a loop. Pull the seizing up as tight as you want against the eyebolt. Now take your block and place it into the loop, grab the loose line that is seized with the eyebolt, and pull it through the seizing to tighten the loop and secure the block. Finish by securing everything with diluted white glue, or CA if you prefere, and trim the loose ends of the rope and thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This particular video may not be what helps, but this guy has many videos on different ways to rig.

 

If you watch this video it should link you up with the rest of his videos. I know for me, seeing someone is the easiest way to learn. I would imagine that somewhere on YouTube you'll find what you need. If I find something else I'll post it for you.

 

What I did, which may not be accurate at all, is to first thread the eyebolt like a needle and tie one knot with the eyelet in the middle. Then seize the block as you do, just keep the eyelet centered on the opposite end. Glue like GuntherMT said. I believe the YouTube guy does like GuntherMT said, but he was attaching to the mast which could be modified to the eyelet instead. Hope that helps.

 

This one may help also, just make the hook an eyelet...

Edited by matt.s.s.

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blocks have different uses and different ways they're secured and specific to different time-periods. If those plans are incomplete or lacking detail, you can take a look here for rigging blocks.  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/16-masting-rigging-and-sails/

 

Just scroll down through the categories and find the right application about blocks. On the first page is one about attaching blocks to spars. Hope that helps some.

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matt I have made hoops from shaving made with a plane. XJ beings are then soaked in water and I use PVA glue on them wrap them around brass tubing with some plastic wrap when I get into Olay cut out the desired size I need a little light sanding paint it goes over the math if you wish I could find some picture for you the best wood to use the Apple or pair of very flexible you're doing a great job.

David B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks great!

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good to me!

 

Also, in case it was unclear at all, any time I have to seize a block to an eye-bolt, I do it off the ship using a vise or helping hand, and then once it's done, attach the eye-bolt to the model.  Much easier.

Edited by GuntherMT
Link to comment
Share on other sites

David your post made me laugh - I get the message and plan on trying with my mini-planer and some pear wood I have - but I love how your text turned out assumedly with auto-complete on... btw my name is Robb.... thanks for the compliments and suggestions, like everyone else so much better than I am at this hobby...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok gents you encouraged me enough that my process works. I built a mini-jig to do this rigging and it works great. I took your suggestion Brian to take the eyebolts out (I hadn't glued them in yet) and works well enough - I have to keep drilling new holes so the eyebolt will stay in place.

 

Now I have to figure out how to seize/tie the blocks to the mast directly. I like the look of when the rope goes around the mast twice. I will experiment...

 

Here's my progress...

post-4074-0-69078500-1439951606_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought seizing the blocks to the eye bolts was challenging.... it took me an hour to get the first block onto the mast. Two false starts before I got the seizing worked out well enough. Getting the block into the loop was much more difficult until I used a clothespin to hold the block steady. Then it was easy!

 

I have a question on the plan. What does the 01 (the '0' has a slash through it) refer to? I don't get it. I took a pic to reference what I am speaking about.

 

post-4074-0-14189800-1440036976_thumb.jpg

post-4074-0-08384100-1440036977_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blocks are looking good.  That's a tough one Robb. Is there any kind of an index or glossary someplace on the plans or instructions, that explains odd symbols? Might have to wait for one of the other guys to chime in. Jesse probably knows since he's built this one before.

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my build the O with the slash refers to diameter. So my guess would be that it's a 1mm hole. I may be wrong so don't drill a hole till you get another opinion.

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks like it's pointing to a sheave in the mast, so if it's like my model, they show the sheave, but then say to just drill a hole for it rather than actually putting a sheave in.  Just guessing though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On my build the O with the slash refers to diameter. So my guess would be that it's a 1mm hole.

 

I agree.  All of my Artesania Latina plans and parts lists are annotated that way

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, it is a hole drilled through the mast that a rigging line will feed through later. The instructions don't explain this at all. It took me a long time to figure it out myself.

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super gents. Jesse I looked very carefully at your mast pics and found one that looks like there's two holes in the top mast portion... so if I'm going to simulate the sheave should I actually drill 2 small holes and file a bit for the indent? I think I'll give that a go...

 

One question/thought on rigging - I've been using some super thin CA glue once everything is tied up but it makes the fixing really hard and "freezes" it instantly. Thoughts on how to do this better? I tried some of the rigging glue from ME but I found it to be a bit too goopy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Robb, here's a way to go easy on the CA.

 

I take an empty prescription bottle, flip it over and put a few drops of CA into the indentation. Next can be done many ways, I use a sewing needle and dip the eye in the CA. Experiment with different size needles as the CA fills the eye. Then quickly dab the spot you want.

 

The eye plugs up after awhile but you can just scrape it off. Hope that helps.

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great idea Matt I will try that. Thanks!

I'm getting better at seizing the lines. I think I have the routine down pretty good now - latest block came out good.

I also did my best to create sheaves on the top foremast - two holes and a little bit of careful filing. I may work on it a bit more to strengthen the lines, but the mast is tiny - 4mm at its widest and 2 mm at its smallest. With the rope going through I'm hoping it will look good enough.

post-4074-0-75530700-1440210790_thumb.jpg

post-4074-0-69599500-1440210791_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking great Robb. I'm also in the process of mast making, woohoo! I have absolutely no idea how to rig a ship and my Italian plans are of scattered help, so I have some studying to do.

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

THanks Matt! One suggestion - I reviewed Chuck Passaro's practicum on the Phantom and his approach to rigging makes a lot of sense. The overview helps de-mystify the rigging process and breaks the process down to practical milestones. I think it will help you - it certainly helped me.

 

I've gotten pretty good now at seizing lines to tie up blocks. It makes sense to me now. Last night I spent some time on the foremast and looking great, especially the blocks rigged to the mast. And then I looked again - I rigged them to the wrong mast pole. aaarrrrggghhhh....

post-4074-0-06813100-1440349670_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the same thing!

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a bummer Robb, but I guess it's all part of the process.  :rolleyes: The bright side is you're getting plenty of extra practice.  

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...