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Ulises Victoria

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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria

  1. Quick update. Just for the sake of comparison: Original color: Stained color: (For some reason, they look much better in person. The actual color is a bit darker.) Here you can see the first sail already sewed to the yardarm and furled.
  2. Thank you Pat! Indeed... I chose to use that stain instead of strong tea or coffee which being organic may deteriorate over the years. I will post soon a couple of photos of how the sails end up looking after dried. Have to say I am very happy with the result! Best regards!
  3. This is how my Royal Louis looks as of March 20 2019. Finished placing the chainwales and lower shrouds deadeyes assemblies.
  4. Hello friends! Update as of March 20 2019 Working on the chainwales. This has to be the most frustrating experience in my shipbuilding career! Assembling the chains Remember a few posts above I mentioned some errors in design like the placement of deadeyes directly in front of cannons? I managed to fix that, but... design flaws made me do things I am not happy about. I just could not: 1- Align the lower shrouds deadeyes to not interfere with the upper cannons line of sight, AND 2- Align the chains that attach the strops to the hull in a way that they do not interfere with the lower cannons line of sight, AND 3- Keep the same number of deadeyes/shrouds for each mast. Anyway I just finished mounting the chaiwales. Good or wrong I am going to have to live with that! Now working on the sails... Original color: Drying them after staining with a water based stain from a Guitar Products shop in UK. Thank you all for watching. This is a general view of how my ship looks at the moment.
  5. Nice start Jo! Above all remember this: it is YOUR ship. Do whatever you feel like and whatever you want with it!!! Don't try to please anyone else but YOU!!! Best wishes
  6. Ouch!!! Those colors!!! In my opinion, the fastest and most effective way to spoil a build is to use shiny paints or varnish. If painted, colors should be flat. When in doubt, better leave it in natural wood finish!
  7. Hi Jo... remember to start a build log, if you haven't yet. It is the best way to get help/advise/comments and pats in your back with your work. Best wishes Ulises
  8. Hello Michael. Thanks for your question. Many years ago I purchased a set of sails for the RL. I remember it was the last one they had. The kit comes with instructions to build with no sails, so I would have to go somewhere else to get running rigging instructions. (Now that you mention it... it's about time to start rummaging through my rigging books ) Here they are deployed over the drawings. They ended up being too thick, however, they are very well made and too expensive not to use them. 😮 So I am planning to put them in furled/semi-furled position. I always like to put sails on my ships.
  9. Titebond regular. Don't bother with II or III etc. Those are for exteriors and waterproof etc.
  10. Short update, but a big advancement... I finally finished work on all the yardarms. Here they are displayed over the drawings in their respective places, with all the blocks, rings and ropes called for in the plans/drawings. I always try to avoid making knots, but if I must, I try at least to make them as aesthetically looking as possible. I will start working on the chainwales, now that my replacement pieces have arrived!!! Thanks for visiting, mates.
  11. Jo... for a first time build, you won't need too many tools. Definitely an indispensable item would be wood glue. Titebond or Elmer's work great. You can start with a few files, sandpaper, knife, scissors for the rigging stage and a jeweler's saw with a few different saw blades. A hand drill and small drill bits. It has been advised before to other beginner modelers: buy tools as you need them. It is amazing the amount of tools you will accumulate as you progress in the hobby. Best of lucks. Nice to have another Lady in our group.
  12. Hello Jo... welcome to this forum. I am not familiar with the kits you mentioned. However I have to mention that Mamoli factory was burned down a few years ago which means replacement parts will be hardly available. I am presently building my first Mamoli kit, after several of other brands. Instructions, at least in my kit. (follow Royal Louis link in my signature if you wish) are scarce and badly translated. Drawings have mistakes. All these things can be fixed by an experienced modeler, but may be a frustration for beginners. I would follow any of the suggestions mentioned above. I felt into the trap of attempting a master level ship as a first kit and it was a disaster. Best of lucks.
  13. Get a good set of mini reamers in different sizes. These have became my most useful tools when rigging. They enlarge and CLEAN the holes. I have used them in blocks down to 3mm, which is the smallest I can handle.
  14. Here you go... They are made in Italy, btw. It says for plastic and resin, but I don't see how they can not work on wood.
  15. What??? No!!! I did not see that table. How could I missed it? I t was the first time I saw wooden ship model kits sold in the vendor's tables. But at prices outrageously high. There was someone selling a Mamoli Constitution at 250 dlls which was very reasonable, but there was a Constructo Mayflower selling at 300, when in Amazon was at 259.
  16. Hello all... Just returned from my annual trip to San Antonio Texas for the annual IPMS (Int'l Plastic Modelers Society) contest and meeting. I mostly go for the shopping, although occasionally I have entered some of my wooden ships. In my continuous quest for finding a tool I don't already have I found the following: Set of tweezers. Yeah right... like I don't already have enough. But anyway, they looked really well made... A set of CA pinpoint placers. I rarely use CA but they fulfill the pre-requisite of being a tool that I don't already have... This third hand tool I find will be very useful when tying blocks and such... so... come and get it... And what I think was my best purchase is this set of 7 multi-shaped mini saws. They have every imaginable shape in their cutting edges. You don't need a handle. You get a very strong grip just by holding them by the grooved handle with your thumb and finger tips. I think they will be very useful to make very small and precise cuts. We'll see!!!
  17. Hello!!! Very small package but very big in value!!! I received some of Chuck's blocks. I have to say they are excellent. I have some blocks I ordered from overseas long time ago. Not going to mention where. You can see them in the column to the left. You can also see that Chuck's (besides being much more well made), have a groove already cut in them. The reason I ordered these 3mm blocks was because the ones I already have, in the left, have no groove and the rope constantly went out of place. So I had to manually cut it and at 3mm it was a very tiresome and time consuming operation. So kudos to Chuck and his wide variety of products. I will make sure to order all my blocks for my next project from him!!!
  18. I am so proud of this group. No matter how small or large a contribution is, you will always get a pat in the back, a few words of compliment or even a few words of "advise against" or criticism, but always in a friendly and thoughtful manner. Congratulations to the owner(s) administrator(s) and staff in general of this great forum. Good stuff always generates envy, btw.
  19. A brand new, hand-made in Mexico, pure leather 2mm (5/64) thick apron. I paid the equivalent of 85 dlls for it

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