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bartley

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  1. A word of warning. Chuck warns about this later with respect to the stern ports but it is also important to make sure that all the gun-port sills fit snugly. If they are a fraction long they will push the bulkheads out of square and negate all of your careful fairing because it changes the angle. This happened on a couple of mine but fortunately I noticed the bulkhead move and so took a little off the sill in question. It doesn't take much. John
  2. Here are some further images of the result I also lined the chase ports as others have done on this forum (BE and Mike)
  3. Post 4 I have now finished the Gun-port linings. I used the method recommended by Chuck using a batten to obtain smooth curve. Although I eyeballed the port and starboard battens to make sure they were the same. I also double checked by using a level as here:
  4. bartley

    Firing a Broadside?

    Thanks far all of your responses. I was particularly interested in the point made by Mark P that the British in particular attempted to get their ship to windward of the enemy. This would be an enormous tactical advantage. Without going into intimate sailing theory , a ship in this position can "lay off the wind" causing it to both accelerate and bear down on the enemy. He cannot do the same to you because he would have to "move upwind" and he could only do this by a few degrees and it would also slow him down. Those who have sailed competitively would know that this bearing down maneuver is not allowed and could result in disqualification. The rule is "a windward boat must keep clear." But this was war! No such niceties would apply! John
  5. Although it is difficult to see in a photo, I think its done now. Time to move on.
  6. Unfortunately there are lots of photos of this step but obviously good planking depends on this step being correct. Test battens seem to sit flat on most bulkheads but it is a bit proud at the bow. So I thought I needed to take bit more of the marked bulkheads. Obviously it is difficult to see how good (or bad) this is without seeing the actual model but this is the best I can do at this distance
  7. Thanks, Chuck. I have done another morning's fairing now. When I think its done I will post another photo. John
  8. Why does the title of my build log appear light grey when everybody else's is in bold characters? John
  9. The starboard side at least is looking close. I notice from Chuck's pictures that there is virtually no lasr char left anywhere so maybe I need to go a bit further? John
  10. In the somewhat romanticized paintings of sea battles the ships are usually shown flat on the water. However any ship whose sails are drawing will heel to windward as shown in this diagram. So one gun is pointing to the sky and the other to the water. In heavy weather the heal is greater so if the lower deck gun ports were open flooding would be a real possibility. Luffing up (turning into the wind) would reduce the heel but a ship in this condition has no way on and hence no steering. A dangerous maneuver it would seem. They could run before the wind (wind directly over the stern) which is generally a “flatter” point of sailing although I suspect with the rounded hull shape of most ships of the period the roll would probably have been considerable. Clearly good seamanship was vital but what was the maneuver used to deliver a devastating broadside?
  11. Yes, Griphos, this is the boxwood kit. Bought a while ago when boxwood was cheaper than it is now! John
  12. After a false start in which I snapped off the bow extension when removing the bulkhead former from the sheet! Things seem to be going well now. The two sections of the bulkhead former were glued together and the rabbet strip glued in place. Them stem pieces and the keel were sanded on their faces to remove laser car but the edges were left unsanded. The treenails were simulated as described by chuck using a 0.5 mm drill and filling with neutral filler. After a coat of wipe-on-polly they were glued to the bulkhead former and fitted well with out the need for fettling. As recommended by Chuck no laser char was remove from the bulkheads and all fitted firmly. Care was taken to retain each one square in all directions. The bow and port filler blocks are added. Next comes, for me, the challenging process of fairing the hull correctly I think I have a way to go yet but trial battens are beginning to look close. I am taking a rest now. I think patience is the key here I am a little concerned about taking too much of the stern as others report it getting too narrow here. John
  13. Pity, Mark, but yes time to move on. Perhaps It helped when I did this that I am a chemist. But there are physical things like cleanliness of the plate and it has to be really flat during exposure. I clamped mine to a piece of thick glass. I don't know what Micromark use but I used brass shim to etch onto. They probably use ferric chloride as an etching solution but I used ammonium persulphate which is a bit less aggressive. Another time perhaps. John
  14. Yes Mark, I had the same problem getting the resist to take evenly. In the end I cleaned my plates by first rubbing well with 400 wet & dry paper and then flushing wit acetone. John
  15. Mark, This was a frieze I made using the circuit board etching technique. It is about 6 cm long and at the time I thought it was OK but it is pretty flat for a frieze although after it was done I painted some etchant in places on top to give some texture. It was originally much flatter than this. However, my carving techniques are much better now so I can now produce better looking friezes that way. Even so you can get an idea of what the resolution was like. In fact I made some about half this size but don't have photos of them.t have any photos

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