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About samueljr

  • Birthday 12/09/1963

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    Lewiston, New York

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  1. Marsalv Outstanding, what else to say. I see you listed 3,750 hours, any idea of what the cost for the build was? Congratulations Samuel
  2. Yes it was an aftermarket product I'll get it done.
  3. I will try. What width am I shooting for including the molding (which added a "skinny" 1/16")? Back to the 5/64th's? Thank's Sam
  4. OK so I skipped a few steps here but this is where I'm at. It's been pretty by the book (kinda') As I stated initially I wanted a deeper color scheme so I've opted for a first coat of 50-50 thinner and minwax golden oak stain and then a full strength (lightly applied) of golden oak. I then hit everything with a wipe on poly. The paint is a windsor newton galleria black (the usual 97 (LOL) thin coats). I have ordered cherry sheets to make the lower molding out of cherry to match the finish. The top moldings are ripped from scrap from the kit. The bow is painted full black as I saw some images of barges with a full field of color. I thought the paint between moldings looked a little "race stripey" for my tastes. The carvings (or in my case all castings) will be a gilded gold with a dull finish. BTW I have purchased the resin castings from Syren and they are beautifully done. For those of you who are wondering why the keel is doubled the kit as designed CAN NOT withstand a fall from a table top to a concrete floor. After several attempts I was left with the option of re-enforcing the keel or starting over. I am thinking if continuing the frieze pattern onto the bench arms. I've attached a mock-up of it - opinions????? Also I have accepted Chuck's "challenge" and will be doing some additional carvings/details to the bow.............. to be continued Sam ARMS WITH INSERT030518.pdf
  5. kopeikin I'm building the VIC as well I'm not intending on using the provided window inserts. If you want to PM your address and I'll drop mine in the mail for you. Not far away just across the boarder in Lewiston, NY Samuel
  6. Well I've decided on a finish. As I've stated I'm looking at a more "older look" (without weathering etc.) something along the lines that the Russian builders accomplish. Something with some depth of color. I tried about ten different types of finishes from tung oil (various number of coats) to sepia washes, wipe on poly etc. The tung oil left it to "orangey" with the cherry wood. So I had to get something to take that edge off. I've decided upon a 50/50 coat of MiniWax Golden Oak brushed on and allowed to dry naturaly. I'll buff it out in 24 hours to take up any surface oil. It may darken or natuarlly patine on it's own and that would be fine. Thank's to Ben and Chris for their input Sam
  7. Thanks Ben That's actually what I'm using. The small surfaces combined with the tight grain make it tough to get it to bite in sometimes. Have you started working with any finishes yet? Using scrap from the sheets I've laid down a first coat of 50/50 (mineral spirit/tung oil) with a second coat of tung on top. It' will have to dry over night. Not excited about it so far. Reminds me of wood work/trim you find in houses. No depth. Once dry I'm going to try a wash of burnt sienna and a wash of yellow ochre to see if I can get a deeper patina. I've looked into bithumen(sp?) but not certain if that would be the way to go. If I don't like any of those I may take a look at some of the tinted Danish Oils. Also when I find the finish I want when do I apply it? I know the directions finish progressively, but if it's a two or three step process how to keep it consistent through the build? Sam
  8. Looks good Ben What glue are you using? Sam
  9. Chuck The jig does make it easier for squareness, alignment and setting a solid base for planking. But like any "tool" care must be taken to use it correctly and not to allow it's contribution(s) to lead to careless building habits. Chuck has designed and engineered a wonderful system for the builder to produce a plank on frame model but in no way is this reduced to a "slot A tab B" build. Care and patience as always should be taken to maximize the kit's attributes. Sam
  10. I returned to the QA BARGE this weekend and was able to get all the frames assembled. Just a few observations; The directions are specific in stating that each frame set should be separated and installed individually and then assembled. This should be followed as it is easy to mix up the parts as there is in some cases only a slight difference in shape and mixing them up is easily possible. Once all the frames were assembled I attempted to fit them into their respective slots on the boards. Once again as per the directions there was some mild sanding required to get the tabs inserted under a gentle press fit and not pressured in. Although not pictured I have dry fit the keel on the assembly. As with the bulkheads some of the slots on the keel were tight on the frames. I took a scrap piece of the cherry and used it as a test fit throughout. With a sanding stick I gently touched up the bottom of the bulkheads where needed. That's it for construction this weekend. I will spend the rest of my "BARGE" time testing finishes on the scrap wood. I am leaning towards a tung oil finish (maybe with some type of sepia wash) or a satin poly wipe on. Those results (and hopefully the assembled keel/bulkheads) here next weekend. Sam
  11. Ben I'm leaning towards the tung oil also. I'd like something a little "warmer" if that makes any sense in the finish. I haven't run any tests yet though. I've even given some thought to the process the "Russian Builders" use with bithuman (sp) but that may be too aggressive. Sam
  12. Forgot to ask; What sealer are you using?
  13. Ben How was the fit with the slots? Press fit as in directions or minor touch-up as per directions? Looking great Sam
  14. Ben Looks good. What are your thoughts on pre-scoring the bulkheads manually to facilitate an easier release later. Any pics of your sealed keel assembly? If yes what did you use? Sam

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