James H

Morning all! Adding to a Shelby I'm currently building, is the beautiful Cobra from Agora Models. I was thrilled with the original Shelby GT500, but I already think this takes it to the next level. I'm also a sucker for the more classic looking car. Agora's new kit comes in their new style box which is designed to withstand the rigours of our postal system, so it arrived with me in great condition. Included with the kit is a large poster, cleaning cloth, and a screwdriver in the first pack of parts. This one is also magnetic, unlike the one in the GT500. Pack 1 Stage 1:Hood/Bonnet assembly As a nice teaser, that very identifiable bonnet is part of the first to item to be built. I still have no idea why some call it a 'hood' 😆 After having experience of one partwork where the bonnet latches were badly moulded and loose plastic bits only, it was reassuring to see that this model from Agora has some proper sprung-loaded latches that also look extremely good. Yes, a little fiddly to assemble, but definitely a nice touch. Some neoprene tape is also added to the top edge of the bonnet to protect the bodywork from being marked. Stage 2: Left-leaning Front Wheel Unlike Agora's GT500, we get an early appearance from one of the wheels. With this one, the centre wheel section is sandwiched between the outer rims, as well as being firmly screwed into place. It's also vital that you soak the tyre in just-boiled water for around 5 minutes to soften it enough so you can fit the inner assembly in position. This one still took a little wresting but it does fit in the end. Now the wheel brake is assembled as shown, and a single screw holds the parts together. The brake assembly will only fit into the wheel in one position due to a slot system, and the wheel is secured from the outside using a screw. Be careful not to tighten too much or the wheel won't rotate. The hubcap is then pushed into the knock-on and this fasten my magic magnet to the wheel. Stage 3: Steering wheel and exhaust parts I'm not sure what the leather seat is made from, but it does feel like leather and is beautifully soft. The steering wheel also has a realistic wood grain effect. The Cobra badge fits to the middle and will only fit the correct way around as the locating pips are different sizes. The exhausts are also a much fit and can only fit one way round. Stage 4: Engine & Exhaust Parts Perhaps the most fiddly part of this is curving the photo-etch edge of the air filter. To help, I first wrapped it around a small paint bottle and then inserted in the groove in the air filter top. This is all locked in place when the bottom is added. The carburettor bottom and top are now added and the whole assembly fitted to the engine block. The exhaust manifold parts are numbered and plug into the main exhaust system. I found things fit a little easier by scraping away some of th chrome plating first. No glue was needed at all as everything was a very good fit. Stage 5: Oil Filter and Exhaust Parts The oil filter is fitted to the bracket which then connects to the engine plate. There's not a lot to this pack as the exhaust parts are scheduled to be completed in the next stage. Stage 6: Exhaust Pipes As with the first exhaust, the manifolds on this are assembled in the same way as the first, using the numbering system. This is a little fiddly but goes together quite well. Final adjustments can be made later in the build. That's it until next time 😊

Please do! Another sure will be good 😎

That is looking so nice. Glad the Chaos Black fitted the bill too.

That really is very beautiful. Is that boxwood or lemon?

That sir, is looking champion! The sanding and shaping look real good. The second layer should be quite easy now.

I'm interested too. Minwax Wass recommended to me, but not sure it was water-based.

Excellent work! I'd love to see you start your own build log and sharing with us please. Nicely planked hull.

That's looking spot on. Those ply bulwarks are easy enough too. You shouldn't have any ripple with them on the bow either. Just get the top of them as close to the tops of the bulkheads as you can.

Pretty much anything is fixable, especially at this stage. Just take your time. Really liking watching you build this one.

Looking nice! Any chance you can still twist those stern planks in a little so they make more contact with the false keel?

Thanks for that. I'll keep this link here, but please can this topic be limited to the software that Rob has posted here. That will keep this topic straightforward.

Pinned! (...and thanks for all your work, Rob)

Looking real good. It's good to get that first planking on and them remove those temporary beams.

There will be a 1:64 range available from Vanguard Models in the near future. I'm building the prototypes very shortly.

'Loosely' admiralty style, I reckon. Looks very simplistic.

Been there, done that! 🤪

Nice to see another Duchess coming together. You can tell it's a very solid frame! Yes, there are so many interlocking slots that applying glue afterwards is the safest way and PVA/Titebond have good penetration...and even more so with a little dilution too. I've had to use this method on Victory too because of the sheer size of joint coverage area. By the time I'd be half way through applying, the chances are the glue would be going off, so application afterwards was key.

Thankfully, there's zero reason to do it except for aesthetics for visible edges. Chris Watton did a test on this theory a long time ago and there was no weakness in a joint still carrying char.

You'll have to ask Chris that. I just have to build these up.

Fresh from Vanguard Models. A 'sign' of things coming... 🤫😆

I get moments like that too and I'm 50! Carry on! 🤣

I don't want to hijack this log at all, but this is in the manual I wrote:

Definitely. There is a metal rotary circle cutter but the blades are very fine and not suited for stuff like cutting those abrasive paper sheets.

Moved to correct forum area.

Can you explain what you mean?