James H

That's actually the one I currently use. I do find them very easy to twist and buckle. Screwed a few up over the years with that. They also seem to blunt fairly quickly when just cutting resin etc.

I have asked about this for you. Maybe there is an answer. ...and there will be new profile blades released in the near future too. I'll add those when they arrive. I know what you mean about their website. They have some really wonderful stuff. You can also pick up your fix of coffee while there too 😜

ASK Razor Saw holders (straight and asymmetric) Artscale See article for codes, links and prices I’m a sucker for nice tools, and one that is used most frequently in my arsenal is my trusty razor saw. I use this for all sorts of materials, including plastic, resin and now also wood. You sort of instinctively know when you need to get it from the tool rack, for those jobs where a knife would be too challenging, or cutters would be too destructive. They are great for making fine and precise cuts that remove an absolute bare minimum of material, unlike a regular saw. I also use mine to gently re-scribe any shallow and fine panel lines on plastic. Razor saws can be particularly good for that task and they don’t leave ridges of material behind like many regular scribers. Artscale recently sent me their two new razor saw releases to see what I thought, and it provided a useful comparison to the brand I currently use. That latter brand is actually very good and has blades and mount which are made from photo-etch stainless steel. For a handle, the tool is mounted in a regular X-Acto style handle. Two slightly different razor saws have been sent for evaluation. These are: Razor saw – Universal (200-T0020), €14,95 Razor saw – Asymmetric (200-T0021), €16.95 The ‘Universal’ style has a straight blade mounting system, whilst the ‘Asymmetric’ has an offset blade mount which is very useful for those awkward cuts, or for those where you want maximum visibility of the material being cut, without your own hand getting in the way. The razor saws sent for evaluation are complete tools and need no third-party handle. Black ABS plastic is used for the handles on these, and the whole tool is nicely balanced in the hand as well as being comfortable when gripped. The blades are also more rigid than the brand I currently use whilst looking every bit as thin…exactly the remit of a razor saw. In fact, these blades are 0.12mm thick). Both of the supplied saws are fitted with the same blade (ultra-smooth and extra smooth asymmetric – two different tooth/pitch sizes). That single blade is also that is provided in each of the saw packs, with replacements and different types being available both individually or in multi-packs. Both saws have a beautifully designed system of blade change which also doubles up to provide reinforcement to the blade itself. It’s also a single-tool system for changing the blade too, with a hex-head key provided. There are two hex screws which drop through a reinforcement plate and the blade, before screwing into a threaded reinforcement plate on the rear. This is handy as my current brand requires a small wrench and a screwdriver to change the blade. The blade mounting holes are also central to the blade, meaning each cutting edge can be used without having to reposition the blade in the handle. In use, the blade stays nicely straight without any awkward flexing, and it’s super sharp too. There is also a certain amount of freedom in positioning the blade in the tool, in case you want to set it to a certain depth of cut. Razor saw blades Artscale also included packets of the blades they currently supply for use with their new razor saw. I have the individual packets, although you can buy these in multiples on their website. Ultra-Smooth (symmetric) - €1,90 Ultra & Extra Smooth Radius (asymmetric) - €2,60 Extra Smooth (symmetric) - €1,90 Ultra & Extra Smooth - €1,90 Conclusion I’ve been after something to replace my current razor saw as the blades in that are way too easy to bend and buckle without the utmost care. Artscale’s new tools seem to answer that need perfectly, and the blade options are very useful too, depending on application. These new razor saws and very nicely made and feel right in the hand. They are also super sharp too! If you are in the market for a new razor saw, whether a replacement or your first, these would be a very good option to consider. Here’s the tool data sheet with more technical information for you. ASK-Handle-saw-pdf.pdf Sincere thanks to Artscale for sending these tools out for evaluation on MSW. To buy directly, click the links in the article.

I did only say 'feel' like one 😁

I had no idea about the differences between a cutter, pinnace, launch or barge before I built these. Now, I feel like an expert 😆

He's told me to tell you he has been without internet/phone for a couple of days, and his business relies on it of course. In his area, even the mobile telephone signal is really poor too. All should be sorted early next week.

I think you purposely decided to go for eye surgery so you could watch the rest of us try and build this first. That's extreme! 😆

Got a little more done over the last 24hrs. Frames 7A/B, 8A/B and 9A/B are now almost built, minus bevelling. I need to fit chocks to 8A at the moment and do some refinement on all frames. Seems like a silly question, but would I actually glue the A/B frames together? It wouldn't make much sense (to me) to add another layer of potential screw-up when all frames are going to be fastened side by side in the keel....or should I glue? Maybe gluing will just create a stronger overall assembly. I'm aware that potential timber thickness tolerances could possibly cause issues if I do glue them together before fitting to keel. Whilst waiting for glue to dry under clamps etc, I took the opportunity to remove and clean up the parts for the next three double frames 9A/B, 10A/B, and 11A/B. I also removed the parts for the last three double frames 12A/B, 13A/B, and 14A/B, but these aren't yet cleaned up and the joints prepped for assembly (squaring up internal CNC curves).

She's looking very clean. Nice work on rigging those guns too.

Absolute kudos. That work is so very neat. This is my benchmark for when I start this.

I just fitted those to the timbers using some rubber cement used for photo-mounting, so I hope that plan works 🤣 Also been rooting around in my attic and I think I found some suitable Madagascan ebony I can use for the wales and gunwales. If I can, that will be very neat against the boxwood-style timber.

I've been rooting around in my attic and I think I found some suitable Madagascan ebony I can use for the wales and gunwales.

Ok, I've decided to dump down the photos I've currently got on this one as FedEx has twice delayed my missing parts sheets. Please remember, I've never done a POF before, so this is definitely out of my comfort zone. If you see anything untoward, feel free to make suggestions. 😊 Not sure what timber is used in this kit, but it's very similar to boxwood that I've used in models many years ago, and also at school. It's reasonably yellow, quite hard and with a fine grain. All sheets in the kit really need to be numbered as per the parts plan in the rear of the manual. You definitely don't want to mix any of these parts up. Parts removal is also very easy, with some cleanup required on tabs. A small number of the machined surfaces also look a little 'fluffy'. Until everything is sanded, I found that a simple shave/scrape with a blade was sufficient enough to sort it. whoops! upside down numbers! I've started by building frames #6, 7 and 8, and for the moment, also the 'B' part of each of those frames, which is the rear of each double frame (towards the stern, of course). Before any building, there are some filler parts which need to be glued to the plans (all frames except #14), so this was done from the outset. A hatched area on each frame drawing indicates where these fit. Also refer to my post about corrections to plans for fillers on #7 and #8 frames. A number of the top timbers are CNC-machined to shape, on both parts A & B of some frames. These just need to be snipped out from the sheet 9A and then cleaned up. Temporary resin inserts are provided to add some gaps/spaces between some frame A & B sided, and the CNC parts need to have their 'V' notches properly cut into place so accommodate the resin spacers. Each set of spacers is also numbered specific to the frame you are working on. All parts of each frame B (in turn) are removed from the various sheets and cleaned up. As this stuff is CNC routed, all internal corners are rounded and will need to be squared off. I used a scalpel for this and it only takes a minute or so per joint. For gluing, I use Evo-Stick formula wood glue, and I also bevelled the timber joint as per plan (and the chocks).....BUT, it took me ages to make a single joint and to get it to fit more or less gap free. I've since found these joints are NOT angled/bevelled and should be perpendicular to the frame....no angled chocks either! I can't tell you how pleased that made me. There are a few laser engraved marks to show bevelling of these, so I'm just ignoring them. Only Frame 6B has them on mine, and the others won't. NOTE: When assembling, note the bevelling lines on the timbers, and that the red lines on the plan are for the REARMOST extremity of each frame 'B'. Frame work so far: Whilst waiting for my parts to arrive vis FedEx, I assembled the two keel parts. Again, there is a certain amount of cleaning up to do, but I think the results look quite neat. Back to the cave...

I've got one of these and it's sat idle for years. I was thinking that it could be used as a drum sander is the Dremel is lowered close to the table. I'm in need of something like that for sanding the inside of my Granado frames/chocks. Would that be a reliable use of this press?

Hi all, I'm actually waiting on a couple of small sheets of parts from CAF, and those should be here pretty soon, courier dependent. The kit itself landed last week in under 7 days from China, via TNT/FedEx. Pretty quick for these times we currently live in. If you haven't already checked out my review for this kit, please do so here: I still need to dump my photos from camera yet, and I'll wait until I have the first double frame complete. Give me a couple of days or so Jim

Cheers, I'll get this set up.

including me?

I have three more photos of this yet unreleased Czech kit to show you. Release date has moved due to various reasons, but is now thought to be about May 2021

They both look real nice. That's a lovely write up too. Quite tempting to get out my MK Yawl while I'm waiting for some Granado parts to turn up. The reworked VM cutter was a lot nicer, in my opinion, to build than the one released first. The planking of the new one is also 0.6mm (laser cut, but not spiled). The finished result is a lot more refined than the original, and I built it with less swearing 😇

Haha! I would, but there is another valid reason for doing all these now... When the ships are being built, I can use these finished models, including the photo set, to save time. All I need to do is add the pics to the instructions and sit the boat straight on the deck/beam.

I use CA gel to do second planking and never had any issue whatsoever. Just use it sparingly and don't get clumsy with it. For some, it's almost like they don't like using a 'new fangled glue' and want to stick to the old stuff. Fair play, but there can be elements of snobbishness from those quarters too. Many other glues also create a chemical bond, so what's the problem? Should I boil down animal bones to make my own glue and use that instead? In the end, use whatever works for you. By the way, nice first post on CA. An excellent read.

Since I've been doing a few photos on something else, I thought I'd take this one of the EIGHT ship's boats I've built for VM so far. I can almost do these with my eyes closed now. 😆

Count me in 🤣

I'm using this to black my brass: https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-chemicals/ €16.50 for 250ml.

She's so so pretty! Hope you'll add the completed photos to gallery.